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jay590
May 25, 2008, 5:29 AM
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i have a black diamond harness for about 6 months now and have used it aboput half a dozen times only for abseiling and the belay loop has a nick in it and is starting to fray. is this normal? my dad has a 20 yr old harness and the belay loop has no marks on it and its been used for everything u can imagine. what should i do?
(This post was edited by jay590 on May 25, 2008, 5:56 AM)
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2008, 6:17 AM
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contact bd.
thats definitely not normal wear and tear- did it catch on anything?
at any rate, either retire the harness or do not use the belay loop any more. personally, i'd retire the thing and send it to BD.
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moose_droppings
May 25, 2008, 6:29 AM
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Kinda looks like it was caught on something.
See if BD would sew another belay loop on it for you. If not, maybe Yates or Mountaintools.com might do it.
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jay590
May 25, 2008, 6:32 AM
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no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond.
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vegastradguy
May 25, 2008, 7:18 AM
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jay590 wrote: no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond.
yup.
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catbird_seat
May 27, 2008, 5:06 AM
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jay590 wrote: no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond.
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a.a.
May 27, 2008, 7:02 AM
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That belay loop is beyond fine. Thrash up a couple squeeze chimneys and it will look a lot worse than that. Check out this testing from BD.
http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php
(scroll down a ways)
You could take a knife to it and it will still hold more than your runners are rated to.
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king_rat
May 27, 2008, 12:07 PM
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it looks like you have caught it on something sharp. it probably will not affect the integrity of the belay loop, however probably is not really good enough as it’s a new harness I would contact the manufactures and see if they can replace the belay loop
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fitzontherocks
May 27, 2008, 1:34 PM
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Two words: Todd Skinner.
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swaghole
May 27, 2008, 1:48 PM
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Yep. My thoughts exactly. I'd just dump the harness and buy a new one. It's not worth the head-ache of always wondering if the belay loop is good when you're about to rap off. Heck, if BD wants to replace it for free, then go for it.
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jungle_george
May 27, 2008, 2:28 PM
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This happened to me a couple of weeks ago - I posted a thread about it.
I was originally going to back it up with a piece of webbing, but I ended up sending the harness back to Metolius and they're currently sewing me a new belay loop.
My guess is if you send it to bd they will probably do the same thing for you (or send you a new harness).
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ptlong
May 27, 2008, 4:27 PM
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2. Retire or ignore? (50 pts)
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moose_droppings
May 27, 2008, 4:47 PM
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ptlong wrote: 2. Retire or ignore? (50 pts)
Ignore
Edited to take out pic.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on May 27, 2008, 4:50 PM)
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ptlong
May 27, 2008, 5:00 PM
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50 points for moose.
3. Retire or ignore?
edit: this is a harness belt
(This post was edited by ptlong on May 27, 2008, 5:01 PM)
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acorneau
May 27, 2008, 5:32 PM
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ptlong wrote: 3. Retire or ignore? edit: this is a harness belt
Depends:
-If it's on the tail of the belt outside of the buckle: I'd ignore it.
-If it's inside the buckle: I'd retire it.
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j_ung
May 27, 2008, 6:21 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: jay590 wrote: no it hasn't ever caught on anything when abseiling. and i dont thing the carabiner could do it. should i take it back to the shop i bought it from so they can send it to black diamond. yup.[/] IMO, if you want BD to see it, send it directly to them.
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donald949
May 27, 2008, 8:33 PM
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Get it sent back to BD to have a new loop sewn on it. I'm assuming the rest of the harness is in good shape. BD should do it for free or a couple bucks. Which would be cheeper than buying a new harness.
Don
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billcoe_
May 28, 2008, 5:14 AM
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fitzontherocks wrote: Two words: Todd Skinner.
Ahhhh, so thats what the Todd Skinner model looks like. Damn.
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rtwilli4
May 28, 2008, 5:19 AM
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In reply to: Two words: Todd Skinner. In reply to: ding ding ding!!! 1. retire 2. ignore 3. retire
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knudenoggin
May 28, 2008, 5:29 AM
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a.a. wrote: That belay loop is beyond fine. Thrash up a couple squeeze chimneys and it will look a lot worse than that. Check out this testing from BD. http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php (scroll down a ways) You could take a knife to it and it will still hold more than your runners are rated to.
BINGO, AMEN!
In reply to: two words: Todd Skinner
(according to those who did), there'd be no comparison to the OP's.
*kN*
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fitzontherocks
May 28, 2008, 10:19 PM
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knudenoggin wrote: a.a. wrote: That belay loop is beyond fine. Thrash up a couple squeeze chimneys and it will look a lot worse than that. Check out this testing from BD. http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php (scroll down a ways) You could take a knife to it and it will still hold more than your runners are rated to. In reply to: two words: Todd Skinner Go for the full sentence: if you saw what his actually looked like (according to those who did), there'd be no comparison to the OP's. *kN*
I agree. And the OP's is probably fine. Which is probably what Skinner thought before he started that last rap. I'm just saying "how lucky do you feel?"
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fitzontherocks
May 29, 2008, 2:37 AM
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knudenoggin wrote: fitzontherocks wrote: I agree. And the OP's is probably fine. Which is probably what Skinner thought before he started that last rap. I'm just saying "how lucky do you feel?" If so, not w/good basis; and it's NOT what his buddy(ies) thought. At best, it would've been "it'll last one more time"; whereas here, it's "it's about as good as new (considering the other nicks it'll accrue, before it's time is due). 
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stymingersfink
May 29, 2008, 3:35 AM
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jesus, with the argument going on here, the OP should save himself the headache, give up climbing for something safer, like say... model railroading?
if it were a single-layer sling, a nick like that could be something to retire.
in a triple-layer sling (like the belay loop is), something like that is something to keep an eye on, while you try to figure out what piece of gear was the perpetrator. When you figure that out, retire the piece of gear (so it doesn't screw up your next harness), continue climbing on the original harness till it's actually ready to retire.
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