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Partner devkrev


May 20, 2008, 5:36 AM
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hey everybody,
One route in CT that I don't think deserves enough attention is A-Frame at Pinnacle. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but after a muddy wet slab start the finish is A+ in my book.
Where else will you find an overhanging reverse tapering chimney with bomber gear that goes at 5.6?

What other routes do folks thing get overlooked around here that are really fun?
Cemetery Vault at Ragged comes to mind as well.

dev


dr_feelgood


May 20, 2008, 2:30 PM
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devkrev wrote:
hey everybody,
One route in CT that I don't think deserves enough attention is A-Frame at Pinnacle. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but after a muddy wet slab start the finish is A+ in my book.
Where else will you find an overhanging reverse tapering chimney with bomber gear that goes at 5.6?

What other routes do folks thing get overlooked around here that are really fun?
Cemetery Vault at Ragged comes to mind as well.

dev

Tower Crack.


dudemanbu


May 20, 2008, 6:55 PM
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Crocodile Tears at woodbury.




devkrev wrote:
hey everybody,
One route in CT that I don't think deserves enough attention is A-Frame at Pinnacle. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but after a muddy wet slab start the finish is A+ in my book.
Where else will you find an overhanging reverse tapering chimney with bomber gear that goes at 5.6?

What other routes do folks thing get overlooked around here that are really fun?
Cemetery Vault at Ragged comes to mind as well.

dev


GeneralBenson


May 20, 2008, 7:33 PM
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I think Franny & Zoey at Rattlesnake is awesome. Fun moves, bomber gear. Also, the 5.4 at green wall is eighty million times better of a 5.4 than first crack.


Partner devkrev


May 21, 2008, 4:17 AM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
devkrev wrote:
hey everybody,
One route in CT that I don't think deserves enough attention is A-Frame at Pinnacle. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but after a muddy wet slab start the finish is A+ in my book.
Where else will you find an overhanging reverse tapering chimney with bomber gear that goes at 5.6?

What other routes do folks thing get overlooked around here that are really fun?
Cemetery Vault at Ragged comes to mind as well.

dev

Tower Crack.

On Monday I think I finally found the 5.7 way to do that route.
I have done it a bunch of times, and everytime was good, just kinda more difficult than I was expecting

dev


Partner devkrev


May 21, 2008, 6:44 AM
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GeneralBenson wrote:
I think Franny & Zoey at Rattlesnake is awesome. Fun moves, bomber gear. Also, the 5.4 at green wall is eighty million times better of a 5.4 than first crack.

Rattlesnake is definitely underrated I think, or folks are just too lazy to walk out there,

Twister has to be one of my all time favorite routes, and its not even in the guide book. A truly splitter crack in CT is rare indeed.

I remember doing that the first time, I think I was with Dudemanbu


dev


GeneralBenson


May 21, 2008, 1:37 PM
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Where is twister on the cliff? I never noticed a splitter crack.


Partner devkrev


May 21, 2008, 5:55 PM
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GeneralBenson wrote:
Where is twister on the cliff? I never noticed a splitter crack.

If you are hiking in from Pinnacle when you get to the base of the cliff turn right instead following the trail left, keep going until you see it, if you aren't sure, you haven't reached it yet, when you see it you'll definitely know.

dev


dudemanbu


May 21, 2008, 6:52 PM
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You were indeed with me. You jugged a #3 up that crack until it ballooned, and then ran it out 20 feet more to the top.

I want to go back there and take another whack at leading that tiny seam.


GeneralBenson


May 21, 2008, 7:16 PM
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Sounds great, I wanna check it out. What's the grade and what hand size is it?


Partner devkrev


May 22, 2008, 10:00 AM
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GeneralBenson wrote:
Sounds great, I wanna check it out. What's the grade and what hand size is it?

Dudemanbu pretty much said it, if you don't have anything bigger than a #3 camalot, you are gonna be running it out a bit.

dev


mongo88


May 22, 2008, 2:00 PM
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devkrev wrote:
hey everybody,
One route in CT that I don't think deserves enough attention is A-Frame at Pinnacle. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but after a muddy wet slab start the finish is A+ in my book.
Where else will you find an overhanging reverse tapering chimney with bomber gear that goes at 5.6?

What other routes do folks thing get overlooked around here that are really fun?
Cemetery Vault at Ragged comes to mind as well.

dev


I remember Faceout and Broadway at Ragged as being exceptional


Partner devkrev


May 22, 2008, 4:03 PM
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mongo88 wrote:
devkrev wrote:
hey everybody,
One route in CT that I don't think deserves enough attention is A-Frame at Pinnacle. It doesn't look like much from the ground, but after a muddy wet slab start the finish is A+ in my book.
Where else will you find an overhanging reverse tapering chimney with bomber gear that goes at 5.6?

What other routes do folks thing get overlooked around here that are really fun?
Cemetery Vault at Ragged comes to mind as well.

dev


I remember Faceout and Broadway at Ragged as being exceptional

I agree with Faceout, but I don't think Broadway is included in the category of overlooked.

I just climbed New Beginnings(5.7) at the Shooting Galley (on the far side of Ragged, south of Owl's Lair) if it was anywhere else it would be megaclassic.

dev


dr_feelgood


May 22, 2008, 6:41 PM
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Wishbone can go fuck itself. Fr srsly


mongo88


May 23, 2008, 5:07 AM
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Last time I climbed Faceout there was a fixed pin, an angle driven about 3/4 in, about half way up. Is it still there?


Partner devkrev


May 23, 2008, 5:31 AM
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mongo88 wrote:
Last time I climbed Faceout there was a fixed pin, an angle driven about 3/4 in, about half way up. Is it still there?
I TR'ed that route a while back(a few years maybe)

No fixed gear, and those flakes were lookin' mighty loose, like gear-placed-behind-them-exploder loose.

To the good Dr:
Wishbone is good fun, I dunno what your talkin' about.

dev


dr_feelgood


May 23, 2008, 6:50 AM
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So yesterday there was a chopped tree at the base of ragged, with a blue blaze on it. It had gotten caught in the trees to the left of YMC and right underneath hemlock. I'm guessing some local shitheads decided they would chop this tree and push it over the edge of the cliff. We moved it while waiting for the rock to dry out enough to lead wishbone(bad choice. Again, fuck that climb.), but I just wanted to put out that someone enjoys pushing chopped trees over the edge of the cliff. Wear your helmets, kids.


GeneralBenson


May 23, 2008, 7:29 PM
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dr_feelgood wrote:
Wishbone can go fuck itself. Fr srsly

Hahahahahaha. Didn't go too well?


dr_feelgood


May 25, 2008, 6:59 AM
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GeneralBenson wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
Wishbone can go fuck itself. Fr srsly

Hahahahahaha. Didn't go too well?
Oh it went clean. And it will never go again.


GeneralBenson


May 26, 2008, 11:46 AM
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i think I'm gonna go give Twister a try today. I've got my #4, we'll see what happens.


Partner devkrev


May 27, 2008, 9:26 AM
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GeneralBenson wrote:
i think I'm gonna go give Twister a try today. I've got my #4, we'll see what happens.

Did you find it? How'd it go?

dev


GeneralBenson


May 27, 2008, 10:23 AM
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Found it, didn't go. I was feeling pretty week and my elbow was hurting, so I didn't want ot blow my chance to get it clean. Are you supposed to use the face holds to the left, or pretend they aren't there? What's the grade on that thing anyways. Looks like about 5.7-.8. I'm definately going back for it, looks sweet.


roadkillchocked


May 31, 2008, 3:51 PM
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Looking for a climbing partner tomorrow: ragged?Pinnacle? Leading 5.6-5.7s, call me 860 992-2441
Clint


Partner devkrev


Jun 1, 2008, 1:59 PM
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roadkillchocked wrote:
Looking for a climbing partner tomorrow: ragged?Pinnacle? Leading 5.6-5.7s, call me 860 992-2441
Clint

Just a word of advice, you will have a better time with it if you fill in a little information about yourself in your profile, or maybe introduce yourself some more.
It makes people less weary.
Cut and Pastes don't usually work too well either.

dev


daphnerich


Jun 4, 2008, 9:09 PM
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Hi everyone
My name is Daphne. I started climbing this year during my last semester of college and have totally fallen in love with the sport. I have a harness, shoes, and belay device/biner, and hopefully a rope soon. I'm from avon and it looks like I'm not too far from some good spots. I was wondering if anyone needs a partner or feels like showing me around the area.

Thanks :)

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