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NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!!
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tradrenn


Aug 9, 2008, 2:56 PM
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Re: [jaablink] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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It's chopping time man.


tradrenn


Aug 9, 2008, 3:32 PM
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Re: [tedman] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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I don't think I will ever understand the way you and people like you think.

Bolting next to crack doesn't make any sense to me, especially in 21 century, were we have superior ropes, superior trad gear, we must rise to the difficulty of the climb and not lower it by adding bolts. One must learn to place good gear and the sky is the limit.

With enough drive and determination most of us should be able to lead around 10b no problem, I got there after doing mostly geared protected routes in last 6 years, so can you.


camplicated


Aug 10, 2008, 4:57 PM
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Re: [t2stone] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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t2stone wrote:
UMM~,

Did someone say TROLL? Crazy
HONESTLY peeps.... would anyone really DRILL? NEXT TO A 30$ USED CAM PLACEMENT? HMM WHAT1 would motivate this kinda CRAP!
lets see here.....?
I see many "excuses" here,but do 2 my "poor" typing/spelling I will get us "going" w/t THE TOP 3 REASONS I BOLTED A CRACK

#1 sport~weeniew/t an ego prob-" @ the coffeeshop s~weenie has 2 tell he/she cohorts that they climbed a 5.9 2-day on lead! )^:

#2 sport~weenie has 2 much $/time on he/she hands now- s`weenie has a trustfund and has been reading rock n ice alot...buy drill go 2 cliff and "pervert" the nature of the rocks.

#3 sport~wennie CAN now climb 5.8 but, would NEVER "trust" a nut or an aiein 4 that matter... buys drill and gets to climb a crack on lead fer once....MadPirate

so was reading the Onion and came across http://www.theonion.com/...t_to_post_comment_on
and I immediately thought of this discussion (well, RC.com in general)


t2stone


Aug 10, 2008, 5:33 PM
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Re: [camplicated] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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yeah, I think of Jerry~springer when I see these "sorts" of tid-bits, but hey it's raining alot and (sometimes) it's fun 2 rub the cats fur backwards isn't it?Unsure


(This post was edited by t2stone on Aug 10, 2008, 5:34 PM)


t2stone


Aug 10, 2008, 5:39 PM
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Re: [angry] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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angry? you are a saint!Smile


Upperlimits


Aug 11, 2008, 1:00 PM
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Re: [jt512] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:



My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.

I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.

It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.


(This post was edited by Upperlimits on Aug 11, 2008, 1:03 PM)


Valarc


Aug 11, 2008, 1:06 PM
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Re: [Upperlimits] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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Upperlimits wrote:
My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

Psycho much? It's just a rock, and you'd seriously want to kill someone for drilling a hole in it?

People like YOU are why I find it so hard to side with the "bolting is bad" crowd.

Some people seriously need to gain some perspective in the world.


kriso9tails


Aug 11, 2008, 1:10 PM
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Re: [Upperlimits] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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Upperlimits wrote:
It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.

I know. It's a hair below genocide on the bad-shit-o-meter in my books. I mean, honestly, everyone knows that you don't wear tape to rap bolt cracks; its just poor form. I say ditch the tape and grid bolt that crag like a man.


rock_ranger


Aug 11, 2008, 1:58 PM
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Re: [Upperlimits] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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Upperlimits wrote:

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

I'd add Rogaine as well, looks like he's thinning a little.


clee03m


Aug 11, 2008, 2:16 PM
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Re: [tedman] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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May be I can give you a few examples. One of my partners was a FA and bolted a route. He went back to climb it after few decades and was worried that the crux fall may not be clean and pose an injury potential. So he posted on cascadeclimbers.com about may be adding another bolt. Aside from the debate over whether as a FA, he had the right to add a bolt to an established route, the consensus was that to maintain the integrity of the climb, another bolt should not be placed. I lead that climb with him and agreed. What felt like a scary traverse would have felt so much easier if I there was another bolt or had the option of traversing back half way and clipping. Even on sport climbs, adding additional bolts change the character of the climb. Can you honestly say that sport routes at Stone Mountain known for scary 20-30 run outs would be the same climb if more bolts are added? Think of the hardest sport climb you have red pointed or on sighted and imagine if someone added a bolt between every bolt. That would be less elitist. But you wouldn't be annoyed? No, man. Adding bolts to established trad climbs is not cool.


justroberto


Aug 11, 2008, 3:26 PM
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Re: [clee03m] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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clee03m wrote:
Can you honestly say that sport routes at Stone Mountain known for scary 20-30 run outs

You haven't been to Stone before, have you?


snoopy138


Aug 11, 2008, 3:38 PM
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Re: [Upperlimits] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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Upperlimits wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:

[img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/286941-largest_76392.jpg[/img]

My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.

I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.

It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.

I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.


snoopy138


Aug 11, 2008, 3:39 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
Upperlimits wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:



My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.

I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.

It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.

I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.

fuck, cheesetitted it.


clee03m


Aug 11, 2008, 4:05 PM
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Re: [justroberto] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
clee03m wrote:
Can you honestly say that sport routes at Stone Mountain known for scary 20-30 run outs

You haven't been to Stone before, have you?

I have, acutally. It is more run out, eh? It's been a few years, and I was just there for 2 days. I just remember being too scared to lead.


jt512


Aug 11, 2008, 4:07 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
Upperlimits wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:



My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.

I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.

It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.

I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.

Did you get on Yellow Fever, too? How loose was it?

Jay


jt512


Aug 11, 2008, 4:10 PM
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Re: [Upperlimits] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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Upperlimits wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:



My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

...I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD.

That's about as intelligent a post as I would expect from someone who would wait at the top of a route for someone who was bolting on rappel.

Jay


snoopy138


Aug 11, 2008, 4:14 PM
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Re: [jt512] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
Upperlimits wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:

[img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/286941-largest_76392.jpg[/img]

My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.

I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.

It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.

I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.

Did you get on Yellow Fever, too? How loose was it?

Jay

didn't do Yellow Fever, based on yore warning. and weren't really motivated at that point.

the start to russian roulette is really awkward. fun climbing from the 4th bolt until close to the the anchors, though.

can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.


jt512


Aug 11, 2008, 4:24 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
Upperlimits wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:



My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.

I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.

It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.

I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.

Did you get on Yellow Fever, too? How loose was it?

Jay

didn't do Yellow Fever, based on yore warning. and weren't really motivated at that point.

the start to russian roulette is really awkward. fun climbing from the 4th bolt until close to the the anchors, though.

Awkward starts is the rule on that wall. I never led Russian Roulette. I was scared enough just toproping it.
In reply to:
can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.

I had to post it. The thread was screaming out for this picture. It took three days to get a response. I was beginning to lose faith.

Jay


climbsomething


Aug 11, 2008, 4:28 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:

can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.
Dude, it's like menstruating in a shark tank.


dingus


Aug 11, 2008, 4:30 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:

can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.
Dude, it's like menstruating in a shark tank.

This is rc.com.... more like food coloring in the guppy tank.

DMT


climbsomething


Aug 11, 2008, 4:37 PM
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Re: [jt512] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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If y'all squint... and DEET gets in your eyes... it kinda looks like teh Needlez, non?






s6141a


Aug 11, 2008, 4:58 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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I bet if you took a poll of all climbers who have climbed for at least five years-95% would have the opinion of leaving the climb as it was done on the 1st ascent. If you would poll climbers who have done a few 1st ascents-it would probably be 100%. Yes-there is ego involved here-lots of it. In most cases the ego drives everyone who is successful at any endeavor. I look at a beautiful line as a work of art and hopefully any climber worth their salt ought to feel the same. Anyone climbing ought to respect the creation of the 1st ascent party and leave the route as is-PERIOD! In the Northeast-this is the prevailing opinion held by veteran climbers; although there seems to be a few who continue to have NO respect for the generations before them.


edl


Aug 11, 2008, 4:59 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
If y'all squint... and DEET gets in your eyes... it kinda looks like teh Needlez, non?

[image]http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/hillarysdavis/Frogland81281306/frogland3.jpg[/image]

[image]http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/hillarysdavis/Frogland81281306/annacrack1.jpg[/image]

Actually if I squint the flake in that second picture looks kind of like a giant dick. Russian Roulette I take it? Gives more depth to the name I suppose.

Jay, do you really support bolting beautiful perfectly protectible cracks? Just curious.


snoopy138


Aug 11, 2008, 5:16 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
If y'all squint... and DEET gets in your eyes... it kinda looks like teh Needlez, non?

no.

and I'm not quoting those pics, I don't want jack to come after me with his rusty shiv.


climbsomething


Aug 11, 2008, 5:25 PM
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Re: [edl] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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edl wrote:

Jay, do you really support bolting beautiful perfectly protectible cracks? Just curious.
Do you really believe that's what that feature is?

*drip drip*

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