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sungam


Aug 11, 2008, 5:30 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
edl wrote:

Jay, do you really support bolting beautiful perfectly protectible cracks? Just curious.
Do you really believe that's what that feature is?

*drip drip*
DUH!
Come on, he trad climbs. Obviously you are just a bunch of bolt clipping pussies who can't climb a perfect splitter to save yourselves, so you put teh reel bolts in to make it easy and that, right?


toofreakinsexy1


Aug 11, 2008, 5:52 PM
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Re: [jaablink] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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Damn, this guy solo's 60 feet and saves drowning children, what a bad ass... chop anything you want brother, those bolts, someone else's bolts, my balls, WHATEVER! haha, but on a serious note, I saved 67 sick seal pups from clubbers. Just throwin that out there.


Valarc


Aug 11, 2008, 5:59 PM
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Re: [toofreakinsexy1] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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toofreakinsexy1 wrote:
on a serious note, I saved 67 sick seal pups from clubbers. Just throwin that out there.

That was YOU?! I swear, man, you deprive me of my baby-seal-fur money one more time, and I'll beat your ass with a camalot and then shove it up your anus in a totally non-gay way!!!


toofreakinsexy1


Aug 11, 2008, 6:19 PM
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Re: [Valarc] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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Valarc wrote:
toofreakinsexy1 wrote:
on a serious note, I saved 67 sick seal pups from clubbers. Just throwin that out there.

That was YOU?! I swear, man, you deprive me of my baby-seal-fur money one more time, and I'll beat your ass with a camalot and then shove it up your anus in a totally non-gay way!!!

On a positive note, if you fell, you couldn't find a more bomber placement... I'd trust it with my tongue... LIFE, I meant life....


climbsomething


Aug 11, 2008, 6:29 PM
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Re: [sungam] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
climbsomething wrote:
edl wrote:

Jay, do you really support bolting beautiful perfectly protectible cracks? Just curious.
Do you really believe that's what that feature is?

*drip drip*
DUH!
Come on, he trad climbs. Obviously you are just a bunch of bolt clipping pussies who can't climb a perfect splitter to save yourselves, so you put teh reel bolts in to make it easy and that, right?
Sumthin like dat.

This spr0t reekwires nutz of teh other variety!!!!!!!!!!11


pyrosis


Aug 11, 2008, 6:31 PM
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Re: [jt512] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:

That's about as intelligent a post as I would expect from someone who would wait at the top of a route for someone who was bolting on rappel.

I knew if I kept reading long enough there would be something amusing in this thread!

Best post I've seen in weeks.

Cheers!


stymingersfink


Aug 11, 2008, 7:08 PM
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Re: [Valarc] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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the words elude me right now, but damnit this has turned into a thread worth reading.


I knew it was only a matter of time, Jay. Nice work.

I'll bet even the most vocal of the anti-bolt-the-crack crowd would clip every one of those bolts were they to climb that route themselves. Probably out of sheer preservation, though if not their own pathetic life, then the life of their belayer.

That dagger hanging there looks fuckin' dangerous, for sure.


healyje


Aug 11, 2008, 10:55 PM
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Re: [jaablink] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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It's a no brainer - if it's protectable with gear then chop, chop - the sooner the better....


jt512


Aug 12, 2008, 10:08 AM
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Re: [healyje] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
It's a no brainer - if it's protectable with gear then chop, chop - the sooner the better....

Based on the last three uses of the phrases "no brainer," I'm convinced that a "no brainer" is actually a belief that cannot be rationally defended.

Jay


jrathfon


Aug 12, 2008, 10:32 AM
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Re: [jt512] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
jt512 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
Upperlimits wrote:
jt512 wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack.

Any opinion on this:

[img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/286941-largest_76392.jpg[/img]

My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.

My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.

My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.

I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.

It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.

I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.

Did you get on Yellow Fever, too? How loose was it?

Jay

In reply to:
didn't do Yellow Fever, based on yore warning. and weren't really motivated at that point.

the start to russian roulette is really awkward. fun climbing from the 4th bolt until close to the the anchors, though.

In reply to:
Awkward starts is the rule on that wall. I never led Russian Roulette. I was scared enough just toproping it.

can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.

I had to post it. The thread was screaming out for this picture. It took three days to get a response. I was beginning to lose faith.

Jay

ya, i knew the jig and the background story, so i just let it ride to see if anyone else would get reeled in.

edited: dang quote frig


(This post was edited by jrathfon on Aug 12, 2008, 10:36 AM)


jaablink


Aug 12, 2008, 10:51 AM
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NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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The 3 poorly placed 24KN Pagan Gear bolts have been Chopped . The land managers requested the removal of 4 more bolts also in the area (the bolter is following this thread , Please inform RH of this)


healyje


Aug 12, 2008, 10:54 AM
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Good job, keep up the good work...


justroberto


Aug 14, 2008, 9:04 AM
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Re: [clee03m] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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clee03m wrote:
justroberto wrote:
clee03m wrote:
Can you honestly say that sport routes at Stone Mountain known for scary 20-30 run outs

You haven't been to Stone before, have you?

I have, acutally. It is more run out, eh? It's been a few years, and I was just there for 2 days. I just remember being too scared to lead.
Eh, the 20 and 30 are pretty par for the course. It's the 50 foot runout and above that are a little heady.


edl


Aug 14, 2008, 3:17 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
Do you really believe that's what that feature is?

*drip drip*

Yea, I'm really fucking stupid and THATS what I think is going on there.Crazy

Jay, I hope for your sake that that route never kills anyone because that column/flake/dick collapsed on them.

This is a serious question for JAY. He always gets on to attack the stance that bolts don't belong next to perfect gear placements, instead promoting a bolt the world standpoint. I want to know why this is. Do you really think that everything should be bolted Jay?

Oh wait, I just know this is a sceme perpetrated by the brilliant jt512 and climbsomething in order to ____________ and I just took the bait. DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111111111


climbsomething


Aug 14, 2008, 3:19 PM
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Re: [edl] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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edl wrote:
climbsomething wrote:
Do you really believe that's what that feature is?

*drip drip*

Yea, I'm really fucking stupid and THATS what I think is going on there.Crazy
You said it. I didn't.

In reply to:
Oh wait, I just know this is a sceme perpetrated by the brilliant... climbsomething
You said it. I didn't.


edl


Aug 14, 2008, 8:39 PM
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Re: [climbsomething] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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climbsomething wrote:
edl wrote:
climbsomething wrote:
Do you really believe that's what that feature is?

*drip drip*

Oh wait, I just know this is a sceme perpetrated by the brilliant... climbsomething
You said it. I didn't.

In reply to:
Yea, I'm really fucking stupid and THATS what I think is going on.[crazy
You said it. I didn't.



Ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha! DDDDUUUUUURRRRR!!!111


gigz5


Aug 14, 2008, 10:14 PM
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Re: [jaablink] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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"if you have the balls and are confident and competent in your ability SOLO IT"
"a line I often solo"
"I now solo it often, as well as every rout on the entire wall for training instead of going to a gym."
"I have the FA"
"who's son i saved from drowning 2 years ago...."
"I have been contracted to develop private crags"
"I replace old unsafe face climb bolts, "on request"
"I have my own bolts. I don‘t need someone else’s that will be destroyed when I yank them"
"Putting a bolt on an easy trad protect-able line is criminal."
"I have climbed each line hundreds if not thousands of times"


jaablink


holy shit, what an amazing guy, you are sooo cool, i can't believe how awesome you are..............are you really this insecure?


"Post up a climbing resume, show us your experience, let us see the amount of your life you've put into climbing. Or shut the fuck up." angry


This almost puts you as the biggest tool in the thread.....but the shear mass & energy jaablink threw into trying to prove, to no one in particular, how awesome he is, the Gold medal for the biggest tool shed has to go to him. but i am curious, oh self appointed almighty authority on who is allowed to have an opinion, what criteria do you use? what exactly is the percentage of life must one have "put into climbing" to be allowed to speak?


notapplicable


Aug 15, 2008, 7:03 AM
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gigz5 wrote:
"Post up a climbing resume, show us your experience, let us see the amount of your life you've put into climbing. Or shut the fuck up." angry


This almost puts you as the biggest tool in the thread.....but i am curious, oh self appointed almighty authority on who is allowed to have an opinion, what criteria do you use? what exactly is the percentage of life must one have "put into climbing" to be allowed to speak?


Your way off base here. The length of time one's involved in climbing, the type and frequency of climbing and the exposure to different communities of climbers, goes a long way towards putting their opinion in context. If a person doesnt have a posting history on here, by which people have gotten to know them and their experiences, then a "resume" of sorts would be helpful. Sure he and anyone else can have an opinion but its much less meaningful without context.

I'm sorry and your free to disagree, but a person with 5 months of gym and sport climbing under their belt is going to be hard put to have a well informed opinion on a topic like the one being discussed in this thread. A person with 15 years experience could also have a completely uninformed opinion but its much less likely. The same is true for much of life.


0x2102


Aug 15, 2008, 7:29 AM
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Re: [jaablink] NEW BOLTS on TRAD LINE!!! CLIPPED!!! [In reply to]
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jaablink wrote:
The 3 poorly placed 24KN Pagan Gear bolts have been Chopped . The land managers requested the removal of 4 more bolts also in the area (the bolter is following this thread , Please inform RH of this)

Sooooo........how were they clipped chopped? Do tell!


(This post was edited by 0x2102 on Aug 15, 2008, 7:30 AM)


jaablink


Aug 15, 2008, 8:53 AM
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I don’t have time to give you a lesson on ethics now. I am going climbing to practice my craft. Sometime this week I will pm you with that lesson, in between work and training on a rainey day. :-*

“Man is never so authentically himself as when he is at play.” Schiller
So I must be a lunatic...


jaablink


Aug 18, 2008, 11:30 AM
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     I received a post form a man in Oregon. I viewed his photos and checked out his profile, he is on a hemp rope tied around his waist moving through a roof . He is , as are others like him - a true pioneer and deserve our utmost respect . At that time they pushed the limits of their bodied and the limitations of their gear .
Now we have Dynamic lines, wire nuts, S.L.C.D.’s , and numerous other highly effective ways to protect our climbs. Advancements are constantly being made. There are no excuses to go bolting a trad line. That takes away the adventure. Hell; even in sport areas around here. Where I also play. No one is bolting lines that can be protected with gear. There is a set ethic that almost all of us agree with .
Most basic Ethics can be found in many books and guides , one notable “Freedom of the Hills 7th ed”, at the top of the AMGA’s recommended reading list.

What is and is not acceptable?
Lets say someone add a bolt to an established line at the Gunks (High E) . I can say without a doubt , there would be no corner of the world the bolter would be safe in. That person would have taken the adventure away from the classic climb, and directly broke every ethical rule climbers do follow and agree on (if you don’t agree you are not a !rock climber). People come from all over the world to do Trad lines in the USA . Europe is bolted all over , they fukt it up in the 80’s and 90’s . Now there are huge movements to go back to trad on protect able climbs because adequate protection now exists.

Bolts do take away from the mental game.
You should be strong minded when your doing this activity , or you will get fukt.

We train on the boulders to become strong enough to play on routs in the crags. We train on the crags to hone and sharpen our skills- to play on the big walls. How can you learn to find the line when it is given to you , a nice and shiny row of bolts…? Where is the adventure in that? There is no shortcut to this game. If the answers have been given to you ; what have you learned? ? ?

(this specifically directed - you know who you R)
(this ethic is the same as “baseball” there are rules. It is considered bad form- to blast the batter in the nuts. Only an ass hole would stoop so low, and it is punishable…) That is why the bolts were removed and the names were not turned in so that legal action would be taken. This is a legal issue, the bolts were not contracted. There have never been bolts on this land, this already is a touchy area for access, and the land managers can restrict access ... All because some piss head wants to leave his mark by bolting a 5.9 crack. You have a problem with that. Buy the land and bolt away. Let me know how that works out for you….

At least Angry is real in his statement. Some of us dedicate countless hours to this craft so that others can have access to these areas. We build the trails , clean the rock, and when needed -protect the rout. We are the explorers who venture out into the unknown , who see the beauty in the line. You just like to follow the shiny bolts because you would get lost any other way.

I am not a very good writer. I hope this wasn’t too hard to follow.

I’m going climbing to work off this anger….


carabiner96


Aug 18, 2008, 11:46 AM
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jaablink wrote:
I received a post form a man in Oregon. I viewed his photos and checked out his profile, he is on a hemp rope tied around his waist moving through a roof . He is , as are others like him - a true pioneer and deserve our utmost respect . At that time they pushed the limits of their bodied and the limitations of their gear .
Now we have Dynamic lines, wire nuts, S.L.C.D.’s , and numerous other highly effective ways to protect our climbs. Advancements are constantly being made. There are no excuses to go bolting a trad line. That takes away the adventure. Hell; even in sport areas around here. Where I also play. No one is bolting lines that can be protected with gear. There is a set ethic that almost all of us agree with .
Most basic Ethics can be found in many books and guides , one notable “Freedom of the Hills 7th ed”, at the top of the AMGA’s recommended reading list.

What is and is not acceptable?
Lets say someone add a bolt to an established line at the Gunks (High E) . I can say without a doubt , there would be no corner of the world the bolter would be safe in. That person would have taken the adventure away from the classic climb, and directly broke every ethical rule climbers do follow and agree on (if you don’t agree you are not a !rock climber). People come from all over the world to do Trad lines in the USA . Europe is bolted all over , they fukt it up in the 80’s and 90’s . Now there are huge movements to go back to trad on protect able climbs because adequate protection now exists.

Bolts do take away from the mental game.
You should be strong minded when your doing this activity , or you will get fukt.

We train on the boulders to become strong enough to play on routs in the crags. We train on the crags to hone and sharpen our skills- to play on the big walls. How can you learn to find the line when it is given to you , a nice and shiny row of bolts…? Where is the adventure in that? There is no shortcut to this game. If the answers have been given to you ; what have you learned? ? ?

(this specifically directed - you know who you R)
(this ethic is the same as “baseball” there are rules. It is considered bad form- to blast the batter in the nuts. Only an ass hole would stoop so low, and it is punishable…) That is why the bolts were removed and the names were not turned in so that legal action would be taken. This is a legal issue, the bolts were not contracted. There have never been bolts on this land, this already is a touchy area for access, and the land managers can restrict access ... All because some piss head wants to leave his mark by bolting a 5.9 crack. You have a problem with that. Buy the land and bolt away. Let me know how that works out for you….

At least Angry is real in his statement. Some of us dedicate countless hours to this craft so that others can have access to these areas. We build the trails , clean the rock, and when needed -protect the rout. We are the explorers who venture out into the unknown , who see the beauty in the line. You just like to follow the shiny bolts because you would get lost any other way.

I am not a very good writer. I hope this wasn’t too hard to follow.

I’m going climbing to work off this anger….

^^^ I'm not reading that.


sungam


Aug 18, 2008, 4:26 PM
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I'll summarize it for you.
He thinks it is teh ghey to bolt tradable lines, and europe is already screwed, and you should pick me in the cowfee shawp instead of uhoh.


stymingersfink


Aug 18, 2008, 5:00 PM
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sungam wrote:
I'll summarize it for you.
He thinks it is teh ghey to bolt tradable lines, and europe is already screwed, and you should pick me in the cowfee shawp instead of uhoh.

'biner, allow me to summarize ^^that^^ for you.

korekt, core wrecked, and rong.


notapplicable


Aug 18, 2008, 8:01 PM
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carabiner96 wrote:
jaablink wrote:
I received a post form a man in Oregon. I viewed his photos and checked out his profile, he is on a hemp rope tied around his waist moving through a roof . He is , as are others like him - a true pioneer and deserve our utmost respect . At that time they pushed the limits of their bodied and the limitations of their gear .
Now we have Dynamic lines, wire nuts, S.L.C.D.’s , and numerous other highly effective ways to protect our climbs. Advancements are constantly being made. There are no excuses to go bolting a trad line. That takes away the adventure. Hell; even in sport areas around here. Where I also play. No one is bolting lines that can be protected with gear. There is a set ethic that almost all of us agree with .
Most basic Ethics can be found in many books and guides , one notable “Freedom of the Hills 7th ed”, at the top of the AMGA’s recommended reading list.

What is and is not acceptable?
Lets say someone add a bolt to an established line at the Gunks (High E) . I can say without a doubt , there would be no corner of the world the bolter would be safe in. That person would have taken the adventure away from the classic climb, and directly broke every ethical rule climbers do follow and agree on (if you don’t agree you are not a !rock climber). People come from all over the world to do Trad lines in the USA . Europe is bolted all over , they fukt it up in the 80’s and 90’s . Now there are huge movements to go back to trad on protect able climbs because adequate protection now exists.

Bolts do take away from the mental game.
You should be strong minded when your doing this activity , or you will get fukt.

We train on the boulders to become strong enough to play on routs in the crags. We train on the crags to hone and sharpen our skills- to play on the big walls. How can you learn to find the line when it is given to you , a nice and shiny row of bolts…? Where is the adventure in that? There is no shortcut to this game. If the answers have been given to you ; what have you learned? ? ?

(this specifically directed - you know who you R)
(this ethic is the same as “baseball” there are rules. It is considered bad form- to blast the batter in the nuts. Only an ass hole would stoop so low, and it is punishable…) That is why the bolts were removed and the names were not turned in so that legal action would be taken. This is a legal issue, the bolts were not contracted. There have never been bolts on this land, this already is a touchy area for access, and the land managers can restrict access ... All because some piss head wants to leave his mark by bolting a 5.9 crack. You have a problem with that. Buy the land and bolt away. Let me know how that works out for you….

At least Angry is real in his statement. Some of us dedicate countless hours to this craft so that others can have access to these areas. We build the trails , clean the rock, and when needed -protect the rout. We are the explorers who venture out into the unknown , who see the beauty in the line. You just like to follow the shiny bolts because you would get lost any other way.

I am not a very good writer. I hope this wasn’t too hard to follow.

I’m going climbing to work off this anger….

^^^ I'm not reading that.

I read it. He said things that are true.

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