|
tradrenn
Aug 9, 2008, 9:56 PM
Post #76 of 140
(5233 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
It's chopping time man.
|
|
|
|
|
tradrenn
Aug 9, 2008, 10:32 PM
Post #77 of 140
(5224 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 16, 2005
Posts: 2990
|
I don't think I will ever understand the way you and people like you think.
Bolting next to crack doesn't make any sense to me, especially in 21 century, were we have superior ropes, superior trad gear, we must rise to the difficulty of the climb and not lower it by adding bolts. One must learn to place good gear and the sky is the limit.
With enough drive and determination most of us should be able to lead around 10b no problem, I got there after doing mostly geared protected routes in last 6 years, so can you.
|
|
|
|
|
camplicated
Aug 10, 2008, 11:57 PM
Post #78 of 140
(5160 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2007
Posts: 30
|
t2stone wrote: UMM~, Did someone say TROLL?  HONESTLY peeps.... would anyone really DRILL? NEXT TO A 30$ USED CAM PLACEMENT? HMM WHAT1 would motivate this kinda CRAP! lets see here.....? I see many "excuses" here,but do 2 my "poor" typing/spelling I will get us "going" w/t THE TOP 3 REASONS I BOLTED A CRACK #1 sport~weeniew/t an ego prob-" @ the coffeeshop s~weenie has 2 tell he/she cohorts that they climbed a 5.9 2-day on lead! )^: #2 sport~weenie has 2 much $/time on he/she hands now- s`weenie has a trustfund and has been reading rock n ice alot...buy drill go 2 cliff and "pervert" the nature of the rocks. #3 sport~wennie CAN now climb 5.8 but, would NEVER "trust" a nut or an aiein 4 that matter... buys drill and gets to climb a crack on lead fer once....  
so was reading the Onion and came across http://www.theonion.com/...t_to_post_comment_on
and I immediately thought of this discussion (well, RC.com in general)
|
|
|
|
|
t2stone
Aug 11, 2008, 12:33 AM
Post #79 of 140
(5144 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2007
Posts: 206
|
yeah, I think of Jerry~springer when I see these "sorts" of tid-bits, but hey it's raining alot and (sometimes) it's fun 2 rub the cats fur backwards isn't it?
(This post was edited by t2stone on Aug 11, 2008, 12:34 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
t2stone
Aug 11, 2008, 12:39 AM
Post #80 of 140
(5138 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2007
Posts: 206
|
angry? you are a saint!
|
|
|
|
|
Upperlimits
Aug 11, 2008, 8:00 PM
Post #81 of 140
(5082 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 23, 2007
Posts: 42
|
jt512 wrote: jrathfon wrote: i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack. Any opinion on this: 
My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.
My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.
My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed.
I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious.
It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.
(This post was edited by Upperlimits on Aug 11, 2008, 8:03 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Valarc
Aug 11, 2008, 8:06 PM
Post #82 of 140
(5075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 20, 2007
Posts: 1473
|
Upperlimits wrote: My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious.
Psycho much? It's just a rock, and you'd seriously want to kill someone for drilling a hole in it?
People like YOU are why I find it so hard to side with the "bolting is bad" crowd.
Some people seriously need to gain some perspective in the world.
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Aug 11, 2008, 8:10 PM
Post #83 of 140
(5070 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
Upperlimits wrote: It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.
I know. It's a hair below genocide on the bad-shit-o-meter in my books. I mean, honestly, everyone knows that you don't wear tape to rap bolt cracks; its just poor form. I say ditch the tape and grid bolt that crag like a man.
|
|
|
|
|
rock_ranger
Aug 11, 2008, 8:58 PM
Post #84 of 140
(5038 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 13, 2005
Posts: 189
|
Upperlimits wrote: My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon.
I'd add Rogaine as well, looks like he's thinning a little.
|
|
|
|
|
clee03m
Aug 11, 2008, 9:16 PM
Post #85 of 140
(5026 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 785
|
May be I can give you a few examples. One of my partners was a FA and bolted a route. He went back to climb it after few decades and was worried that the crux fall may not be clean and pose an injury potential. So he posted on cascadeclimbers.com about may be adding another bolt. Aside from the debate over whether as a FA, he had the right to add a bolt to an established route, the consensus was that to maintain the integrity of the climb, another bolt should not be placed. I lead that climb with him and agreed. What felt like a scary traverse would have felt so much easier if I there was another bolt or had the option of traversing back half way and clipping. Even on sport climbs, adding additional bolts change the character of the climb. Can you honestly say that sport routes at Stone Mountain known for scary 20-30 run outs would be the same climb if more bolts are added? Think of the hardest sport climb you have red pointed or on sighted and imagine if someone added a bolt between every bolt. That would be less elitist. But you wouldn't be annoyed? No, man. Adding bolts to established trad climbs is not cool.
|
|
|
|
|
justroberto
Aug 11, 2008, 10:26 PM
Post #86 of 140
(4995 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876
|
clee03m wrote: Can you honestly say that sport routes at Stone Mountain known for scary 20-30 run outs
You haven't been to Stone before, have you?
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Aug 11, 2008, 10:38 PM
Post #87 of 140
(4987 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
Upperlimits wrote: jt512 wrote: jrathfon wrote: i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack. Any opinion on this: [img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/286941-largest_76392.jpg[/img] My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious. My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon. My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed. I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious. It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect.
I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Aug 11, 2008, 10:39 PM
Post #88 of 140
(4985 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
snoopy138 wrote: Upperlimits wrote: jt512 wrote: jrathfon wrote: i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack. Any opinion on this: My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious. My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon. My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed. I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious. It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect. I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.
fuck, cheesetitted it.
|
|
|
|
|
clee03m
Aug 11, 2008, 11:05 PM
Post #89 of 140
(4971 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 785
|
justroberto wrote: clee03m wrote: Can you honestly say that sport routes at Stone Mountain known for scary 20-30 run outs You haven't been to Stone before, have you?
I have, acutally. It is more run out, eh? It's been a few years, and I was just there for 2 days. I just remember being too scared to lead.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 11, 2008, 11:07 PM
Post #90 of 140
(4969 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
snoopy138 wrote: Upperlimits wrote: jt512 wrote: jrathfon wrote: i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack. Any opinion on this: My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious. My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon. My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed. I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious. It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect. I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect.
Did you get on Yellow Fever, too? How loose was it?
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 11, 2008, 11:10 PM
Post #91 of 140
(4979 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
Upperlimits wrote: jt512 wrote: jrathfon wrote: i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack. Any opinion on this: My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious. My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon. ...I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD.
That's about as intelligent a post as I would expect from someone who would wait at the top of a route for someone who was bolting on rappel.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Aug 11, 2008, 11:14 PM
Post #92 of 140
(4974 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
jt512 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Upperlimits wrote: jt512 wrote: jrathfon wrote: i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack. Any opinion on this: [img]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/286941-largest_76392.jpg[/img] My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious. My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon. My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed. I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious. It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect. I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect. Did you get on Yellow Fever, too? How loose was it? Jay
didn't do Yellow Fever, based on yore warning. and weren't really motivated at that point.
the start to russian roulette is really awkward. fun climbing from the 4th bolt until close to the the anchors, though.
can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Aug 11, 2008, 11:24 PM
Post #93 of 140
(4957 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
snoopy138 wrote: jt512 wrote: snoopy138 wrote: Upperlimits wrote: jt512 wrote: jrathfon wrote: i am sorry, but i will absolutely never agree with a bolt next to a crack. Any opinion on this: My first thought was that I would whip out my handy dandy pocket knife and cut the rope. And yes I'm totally serious. My second reacton was that his roots are growing out and it's about time to get back to the beauty salon. My third reaction was that I'd call him up to the top of the climb and beat him within an inch of his life with a #2 BD. Then I'd shove it up his ass to make him remember the size and how it is properly placed. I think I'll go with my third choice. And yes I'm serious. It would be hard to contain my anger if I saw what was pictured. And I seriously hope that picture was staged for dramatic effect. I climbed that route yesterday. Fun 5.8ish crack climbing. I clipped a bolt right where his drill is going in, as well as a whole bunch more next to the crack. So, no, the picture was not staged for dramatic effect. Did you get on Yellow Fever, too? How loose was it? Jay didn't do Yellow Fever, based on yore warning. and weren't really motivated at that point. the start to russian roulette is really awkward. fun climbing from the 4th bolt until close to the the anchors, though.
Awkward starts is the rule on that wall. I never led Russian Roulette. I was scared enough just toproping it.
In reply to: can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.
I had to post it. The thread was screaming out for this picture. It took three days to get a response. I was beginning to lose faith.
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Aug 11, 2008, 11:28 PM
Post #94 of 140
(4955 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
snoopy138 wrote: can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Aug 11, 2008, 11:30 PM
Post #95 of 140
(4952 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
climbsomething wrote: snoopy138 wrote: can't believe you got somebody with this, yet again. Dude, it's like menstruating in a shark tank.
This is rc.com.... more like food coloring in the guppy tank.
DMT
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Aug 11, 2008, 11:37 PM
Post #96 of 140
(4947 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
If y'all squint... and DEET gets in your eyes... it kinda looks like teh Needlez, non?
|
|
|
|
|
s6141a
Aug 11, 2008, 11:58 PM
Post #97 of 140
(4931 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 10, 2008
Posts: 23
|
I bet if you took a poll of all climbers who have climbed for at least five years-95% would have the opinion of leaving the climb as it was done on the 1st ascent. If you would poll climbers who have done a few 1st ascents-it would probably be 100%. Yes-there is ego involved here-lots of it. In most cases the ego drives everyone who is successful at any endeavor. I look at a beautiful line as a work of art and hopefully any climber worth their salt ought to feel the same. Anyone climbing ought to respect the creation of the 1st ascent party and leave the route as is-PERIOD! In the Northeast-this is the prevailing opinion held by veteran climbers; although there seems to be a few who continue to have NO respect for the generations before them.
|
|
|
|
|
edl
Aug 11, 2008, 11:59 PM
Post #98 of 140
(4929 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 134
|
climbsomething wrote: If y'all squint... and DEET gets in your eyes... it kinda looks like teh Needlez, non? [image]http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/hillarysdavis/Frogland81281306/frogland3.jpg[/image] [image]http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g317/hillarysdavis/Frogland81281306/annacrack1.jpg[/image]
Actually if I squint the flake in that second picture looks kind of like a giant dick. Russian Roulette I take it? Gives more depth to the name I suppose.
Jay, do you really support bolting beautiful perfectly protectible cracks? Just curious.
|
|
|
|
|
snoopy138
Aug 12, 2008, 12:16 AM
Post #99 of 140
(4916 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28992
|
climbsomething wrote: If y'all squint... and DEET gets in your eyes... it kinda looks like teh Needlez, non?
no.
and I'm not quoting those pics, I don't want jack to come after me with his rusty shiv.
|
|
|
|
|
climbsomething
Aug 12, 2008, 12:25 AM
Post #100 of 140
(4912 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
|
edl wrote: Jay, do you really support bolting beautiful perfectly protectible cracks? Just curious.
*drip drip*
|
|
|
|
|
|
