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How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
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Poll: How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet.
5.9 or less 4 / 13%
5.10 8 / 26%
5.11 8 / 26%
5.12 7 / 23%
5.13 4 / 13%
31 total votes
 

Partner camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 11:46 AM
Post #26 of 46 (866 views)
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
wonderwoman wrote:
1. you have a lot of time on your hands...

You think that's bad?

See attached!

Haven't had time to test it for bugz, but y'all can do that for me.

Thanx AB! I'll have to make it up with sweet sweet gheyluv tonight!

oh, and if you do not have any 5.8 solos, you are simply not experienced, n00b!!!!!Mad


Feller


Sep 4, 2008, 11:48 AM
Post #27 of 46 (864 views)
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Registered: Jul 28, 2008
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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thank you. that was way easier than the OP's method.

conclusion: apparently I have a 12b gheyness rating.


tb69hikeclimb


Sep 4, 2008, 11:48 AM
Post #28 of 46 (862 views)
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Registered: Jun 22, 2006
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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IF A SUBMARINE DROVE UP IN YOUR DRIVEWAY AND FIRED TWO TORPEDOS, HOW MANY PANCKES WOULD IT TAKE TO SHINGLE YOUR DOG HOUSES ROOF?

YOUR A TARD WITH WAY TO MUCH TIME TO THINK!

STOP THINKING!!!!!!!!!JUST DO.


THE ANSWER IS 7


sungam


Sep 4, 2008, 11:50 AM
Post #29 of 46 (860 views)
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Re: [tb69hikeclimb] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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tb69hikeclimb wrote:
IF A SUBMARINE DROVE UP IN YOUR DRIVEWAY AND FIRED TWO TORPEDOS, HOW MANY PANCKES WOULD IT TAKE TO SHINGLE YOUR DOG HOUSES ROOF?

YOUR A TARD WITH WAY TO MUCH TIME TO THINK!

STOP THINKING!!!!!!!!!JUST DO.


THE ANSWER IS 7
hmm, my friend did that, too.
Learnt his lesson good, though.
Always make sure you know what's in the rollie, never assume it's just the cloves.


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 4, 2008, 11:56 AM
Post #30 of 46 (856 views)
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Re: [sungam] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Here, version two. Fixed it, one final average. Don't enter a value and it counts against you. And now in a more appropriate colour.
Attachments: Camheds Gheyness Counter V1.2.xls (25.5 KB)


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 4, 2008, 11:59 AM
Post #31 of 46 (850 views)
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Ok, I didn't actually read it as I was making the Gheyaculator. How can you assign ratings to the cracks? Where are these 5.14 hand cracks? I wuntz to know!


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 4, 2008, 12:01 PM
Post #32 of 46 (847 views)
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Re: [tb69hikeclimb] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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tb69hikeclimb wrote:
IF A SUBMARINE DROVE UP IN YOUR DRIVEWAY AND FIRED TWO TORPEDOS, HOW MANY PANCKES WOULD IT TAKE TO SHINGLE YOUR DOG HOUSES ROOF?

YOUR A TARD WITH WAY TO MUCH TIME TO THINK!

STOP THINKING!!!!!!!!!JUST DO.


THE ANSWER IS 7

I originally had a pankcake rating in there, but took it out for several reasons. Perhaps in ver 1.3


Partner angry


Sep 4, 2008, 12:07 PM
Post #33 of 46 (831 views)
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Re: [sungam] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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First off, no-one cares about your stupid island. Stop whining.

I pretty much came in at 12b for both, too many hard onsights and not enough projects I suppose.


Partner camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 12:08 PM
Post #34 of 46 (829 views)
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
Ok, I didn't actually read it as I was making the Gheyaculator. How can you assign ratings to the cracks? Where are these 5.14 hand cracks? I wuntz to know!

handcrack roofs can be as hard as 5.12. If you have climbed these, you are well-rounded, if not, you are weakmo N00000B!!!!!11


boadman


Sep 4, 2008, 12:11 PM
Post #35 of 46 (822 views)
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Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 726

Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!

Okay, I am not quantitative at all, I do not know how to use MS Excell, and there are probably going to be plenty of things wrong with this excercise.

That said, I was thinking it would be cool to take the numbers/ranking of 8a.nu, and apply it to how truly well-rounded we are as rock climbers. I have not included ice or mountaineering, sorry.

Here's how it works. Make up a spreadsheet or write down each of these groups and categories:

Sport:
-Overhanging Endurance (RRG, Maple, etc.)-
-Overhanging Bouldery (five bolts or less)-
-Technical Face (vertical or slightly overhanging)-
-Slab (Less than vertical and/or smearing)-

Trad:
-Hand or Fist crack-
-Off-fingers crack-
-Fingercrack or thinner-
-Offwidth and/or Chimney-
-Face (pretty diverse, could be Gunks, Eldo, technial stemming, or -Tuolomne slab)-

Mental:
-R-rated Climbs or highball boulder problems-
-X-rated and/or Free Solo-

Boulder:
-just one category here-

Now, enter in TWO point values for each category. Take the HIGHEST of: 1) your onsight/flash, and 2) your redpoint. Here are the number values:

VALUES (onsight-flash/redpoint)
Routes:
5.8: 2/1
5.9: 4/2
5.9+: 5/3
.10a: 6/4
.10b: 7/5
.10c: 8/6
.10d: 9/7
.11a: 10/8
.11b: 11/9
.11c: 12/10
.11d: 13/11
.12a: 14/12
.12b: 15/13
.12c: 16/14
.12d: 17/15
.13a: 18/16
.13b: 19/17
.13c: 20/18
.13d: 21/19
.14a: 22/20

Bouldering:
V0 5/2
V1 7/4
V2 9/6
V311/8
V413/0
V515/12
V617/14
V718/15
V820/17
V921/18
V1022/19

FINALLY, if you want, take the average for onsight-flash and redpoint, convert it back into a climbing grade. Hopefully, this should give your all-around level. Post it up and enter the poll if you want. There is no option for PANCAKES. Sorry.


***disclaimer***
I know that people will complain about a lot of this. Here are some disclaimers:

1. The numbers on routes reward onsighting more than redpointing. Many people go with the adage that you should redpoint one number grade harder than you onsight. This exercise does not follow this formula. Sorry.

2. There is a bigger difference between flash/redpoint for bouldering than for routes. I did this since it is usually easier to work boulder problems than routes.

3. The boulder ratings roughly match up with the route ratings. Not exactly, but roughly. Sorry.

4. If you climb lower than 5.8, you get a zero. Of you have not done the given style, you get a zero. If you only toprope or follow, you also get a zero. You are not a well-rounded climber. Get out and train, bitch.

5. If you boulder harder than v10 or climb harder than 14a, you are likely not reading this post, but rather out climbing.

that is awl.

I have to admit to thinking that this was pretty fun. I got a 13 flash and a 12 redpoint, which puts me at about 12a which is pretty accurate, I think. Although, I don't think that it really means that I could go and climb an x-rated 12a. The total possible points available in the "mental" category is small which reduces it's effect on the average score. So, to make this apply to your mental game, you'd have to add a bunch of hardest scary slab? hardest scary crack? hardest scary overhanging route? type questions.


sungam


Sep 4, 2008, 12:13 PM
Post #36 of 46 (820 views)
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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AB, you make a damn sexy excel spreadsheet.


chossmonkey


Sep 4, 2008, 12:52 PM
Post #37 of 46 (802 views)
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
Ok, I didn't actually read it as I was making the Gheyaculator. How can you assign ratings to the cracks? Where are these 5.14 hand cracks? I wuntz to know!

handcrack roofs can be as hard as 5.12+. If you have climbed these, you are well-rounded, if not, you are weakmo N00000B!!!!!11
Fixed it for you.


Partner cracklover


Sep 4, 2008, 1:19 PM
Post #38 of 46 (788 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Not accurate for me at all, for two reasons:

1 - it gives no weighting for how much you climb per type.

2 - It gives an average. To my mind, it should give something near the bottom - what's my "competence grade". The grade where I can onsight/RP across styles. This set of numbers is nothing like that.

Sport, I climb harder than your formula would suggest. The flip side of that is that the little bit of sport I have with high numbers (relative to me) has way too big an impact on my numbers.

Trad, that score's probably about right for my crack climbing, but *way* too high for my gear protected face. And gear protected face is mostly what I've done recently.

So it's only right for the climbing I love the most, crack. Everything else it's pretty far off.

GO


chossmonkey


Sep 4, 2008, 1:30 PM
Post #39 of 46 (781 views)
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Re: [cracklover] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Not accurate for me at all, for two reasons:

1 - it gives no weighting for how much you climb per type.

2 - It gives an average. To my mind, it should give something near the bottom - what's my "competence grade". The grade where I can onsight/RP across styles. This set of numbers is nothing like that.

Sport, I climb harder than your formula would suggest. The flip side of that is that the little bit of sport I have with high numbers (relative to me) has way too big an impact on my numbers.

Trad, that score's probably about right for my crack climbing, but *way* too high for my gear protected face. And gear protected face is mostly what I've done recently.

So it's only right for the climbing I love the most, crack. Everything else it's pretty far off.

GO
Did you miss the "Well Rounded" part?


Partner cracklover


Sep 4, 2008, 1:39 PM
Post #40 of 46 (771 views)
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Re: [chossmonkey] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Not accurate for me at all, for two reasons:

1 - it gives no weighting for how much you climb per type.

2 - It gives an average. To my mind, it should give something near the bottom - what's my "competence grade". The grade where I can onsight/RP across styles. This set of numbers is nothing like that.

Sport, I climb harder than your formula would suggest. The flip side of that is that the little bit of sport I have with high numbers (relative to me) has way too big an impact on my numbers.

Trad, that score's probably about right for my crack climbing, but *way* too high for my gear protected face. And gear protected face is mostly what I've done recently.

So it's only right for the climbing I love the most, crack. Everything else it's pretty far off.

GO
Did you miss the "Well Rounded" part?

Maybe. What are you referring to?

GO


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 4, 2008, 3:35 PM
Post #41 of 46 (755 views)
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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Camhed, I'm surprised you give V4 redpointers so little cred. What'd some V4 gym rat hit on Clausti or something?


sungam


Sep 4, 2008, 3:56 PM
Post #42 of 46 (753 views)
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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AB, when are you gunna hit 10k?
at this rate I'll be there before you.
well, I'm off to shitcan the PCI again...

back on topic- What if you've never climbed a handcrack, fingercrack, or a proper offwidth? nihl whah?


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 4, 2008, 4:06 PM
Post #43 of 46 (752 views)
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Re: [sungam] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
AB, when are you gunna hit 10k?
at this rate I'll be there before you.
well, I'm off to shitcan the PCI again...

Meh. Postwhoring lost it's enjoyment with the deathmurder of the BET. I only post to entertain myself, blatent postwhoring is not fun (to do or read - ahem).

In reply to:
back on topic- What if you've never climbed a handcrack, fingercrack, or a proper offwidth? nihl whah?

Then you're not a climber


sungam


Sep 4, 2008, 4:14 PM
Post #44 of 46 (746 views)
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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:(damn. I'm no climber.
Really? the BET is dead?
Well, if you are still online we could go have a banter-fest.
I won't be whiney or post pictures of fat asses. Or try to type scottish.


dingus


Sep 4, 2008, 5:01 PM
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Re: [camhead] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!

No. Fuck YOU asshole.

DMT


Partner camhead


Sep 4, 2008, 5:18 PM
Post #46 of 46 (726 views)
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Re: [dingus] How Well Rounded Are You? Worksheet. [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
camhead wrote:
DO NOT JUST CLICK ON THE POLL, ASSHOLE! KEEP READING!

No. Fuck YOU asshole.

DMT

You clicked on the poll without reading! Dingus is waht's rong with climbing!

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