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ddt


Feb 28, 2008, 8:27 PM
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Suggestions for RC.com Climbing Dictionary
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Please post your comments and suggestions for edits or additions to our Climbing Dictionary here. We will make the changes if there is sufficient consensus about the suggested change or addition.

Please stay on topic in this thread. Off-topic posts will be removed.

Thanks for your contributions!
DDT


shoo


Feb 28, 2008, 8:47 PM
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Re: [ddt] Suggestions for RC.com Climbing Dictionary [In reply to]
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I'll start. To add to your definition of "screamer,"

a common name for a device which reduces peak force by controlled tearing of stitching, more specifically the brand name for one of these products by Yates.


ddt


Feb 28, 2008, 8:50 PM
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Added! Smile


(This post was edited by ddt on Feb 28, 2008, 8:51 PM)


shoo


Feb 28, 2008, 8:52 PM
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Oooh, I have another

booty - n. gear left behind for the taking, usually either from a previous party bailing on a route or accidentally fixing gear

Thanks ddt!


(This post was edited by shoo on Feb 28, 2008, 10:20 PM)


sbaclimber


Feb 28, 2008, 11:36 PM
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Abseil - v. UK English for rappel, from the German origin. See Rappel.

Pin/Peg - n. See Piton.

Wire - n. Slang for Nut. See Nuts.

Sidecling - n. Any hold that requires the climber to pull on it in a sideways manner.

Pinch - n. Any hold that must be pinched.

Tuffa - n. Generally rounded hanging features formed by calcium leaching out of limestone. Basically the climber's version of Stalactites.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Feb 29, 2008, 12:59 AM)


overlord


Mar 4, 2008, 2:34 AM
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'aid ratings' is missing, and is referred to in at least two other articles (aid climbing and class 6)

proposed changes...

belay(v)... ditch the 'preventing rope from from being paid out if the climber falls' for 'protecting the climber in the event of a fall'.

belayer... a person who is belaying a climber.

drop knee... technique requiring twisting your body and a downward turning of the inside knee to increase reach efficiency. (short, i know, but to the point)

Figure 4 - n. An uncommon technique to make long reaches that requires lifting a leg over the opposite arm, putting the body in a position that resembles a "4". Mostly used in ice and mixed climbing.

add...

Figure 9 - n. An uncommon technique to make long reaches that requires lifting a leg over the arm on the same side of the climbers body, putting the body in a position that resembles a "9". Mostly used in ice and mixed climbing.

change...

Flag... SCC refers to flagging as using feet without holds to improove balance and create sideways momentum. maybe this should be included in some way.

put the two definitions of 'jug' into one, they are redundant.

pendulum... add... also a dangerous situation that may occur during a fall, if the top piece of protections is off to one side.

second... add... (n) a person (one or more) who is seconding a climb.

solo... it does not necessarily have to be free. you can also solo climb with protection, or solo aid etc. it only means that you are climbing alone, without a partner.


thats it for now i guess. i will get back to this oneWink


(This post was edited by overlord on Mar 4, 2008, 2:45 AM)


danB


Mar 10, 2008, 9:59 PM
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self arrest - the act of stopping oneself with the axe in the case of a fall while on a snow slope
verglas - a thin layer of ice covering rock
roof - a 180 degree overhang
glissade - a controled slide down a slope


majid_sabet


Apr 2, 2008, 4:30 PM
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Stacking placing fingers above each other in a crack to lock while crack climbing


ddt


Apr 2, 2008, 11:03 PM
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I've worked all suggestions so far into the dictionary. Thanks for everyone's contributions!

DDT


scuclimber


Apr 20, 2008, 5:06 PM
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ddt,

Isn't the term "chickenhead" and not "chickhead"? I've never in my life heard it called the latter, either in popular guidebooks written by climbing greats, or otherwise. I've always heard "chickenhead." Just a thought.


ddt


Apr 21, 2008, 5:18 PM
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Yup, I agree. I've fixed it.

DDT


thomasribiere


Apr 22, 2008, 8:28 AM
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The famous "equalette" is not in the Dictionary.


ddt


Apr 22, 2008, 9:45 AM
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thomasribiere wrote:
The famous "equalette" is not in the Dictionary.

Can anyone offer a succint definition?


Partner j_ung


May 7, 2008, 5:46 AM
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This came up recently and might be worthwhile.

back step:
1. n, a foot position relative to its foothold wherein the climber uses the outside edge of the toe box, instead of the big toe, inside edge, heel, instep, etc.
2. v, to use the outside edge of one's foot on a foothold.
3. v, (the rope) to place a foot or leg between the rope and the rock in such a way as to make entanglement and, subsequently, an upside-down fall more likely. Dude! Watch your right foot! Don't back step the rope!



ddt


May 7, 2008, 8:41 AM
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Thanks Jay... I added "back step". Smile


(This post was edited by ddt on May 7, 2008, 8:41 AM)


dumbsocrates


Aug 4, 2008, 9:09 AM
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How about defs of "ice axe" and "ice tool"?


sungam


Sep 20, 2008, 6:16 PM
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Too add to the description of "alpine style"...
I think Alpinism is definitely a place where you want to cut down weight etc. but that's not, historically at least, what alpine style is.
Rather, the definition for alpine style should be along the lines of " Doing a mountain route without pre-placing fixed lines or using pre-supplied camp sites for any stage of the journey
Example: Joe Simpson Simon Yates did Suila Grande in alpine style and look where it got them! or: And the British group climbed the new route on Changabang in fine alpine style".
Know what I mean?


thomasribiere


Oct 5, 2008, 5:19 AM
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Jughaul? Is that a succession of jugs?

camhead wrote:
Yosemite is more overrated than a Maple Canyon jughaul.


Partner camhead


Oct 5, 2008, 7:10 AM
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jughaul: a route that has nothing but big, easy holds on it.


thomasribiere


Oct 6, 2008, 1:49 PM
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Could the definition of G / PG13 / R / X be added as well?


yinyangS13


Oct 14, 2008, 3:24 PM
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Static and dynamic ropes are not in the dictionary


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:31 PM
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thomasribiere wrote:
Could the definition of G / PG13 / R / X be added as well?

I added the definitions under "safety rating".


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:32 PM
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camhead wrote:
jughaul: a route that has nothing but big, easy holds on it.

Added. Smile


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:33 PM
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yinyangS13 wrote:
Static and dynamic ropes are not in the dictionary

Care to provide the verbiage? Wink


ddt


Oct 19, 2008, 10:36 PM
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sungam wrote:
Too add to the description of "alpine style"...
I think Alpinism is definitely a place where you want to cut down weight etc. but that's not, historically at least, what alpine style is.
Rather, the definition for alpine style should be along the lines of " Doing a mountain route without pre-placing fixed lines or using pre-supplied camp sites for any stage of the journey
Example: Joe Simpson Simon Yates did Suila Grande in alpine style and look where it got them! or: And the British group climbed the new route on Changabang in fine alpine style".
Know what I mean?

I updated the definition of alpine style. Thanks!

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