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Stick Clip Rules?
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Poll: Stick Clip Rules?
1 bolt? 45 / 68%
2 bolts? 7 / 11%
1/3rd the bolts? 0 / 0%
1/2 the bolts? 1 / 2%
All of them, you still lead it. 13 / 20%
66 total votes
 

jakedatc


Nov 22, 2008, 11:32 AM
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Re: [notapplicable] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s



Holy crap the rock can break!! Shocked

Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.

uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.


styndall


Nov 22, 2008, 12:09 PM
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Re: [j_ung] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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j_ung wrote:
Meh, sport climbing is essentially one big compromise of style (and ethics) to achieve a higher difficulty. (Please don't take that as me passing judgment. I'm not. I sport climb some, too, and like it just fine.) I don't see anything disingenuous with sticking the first bolt on a sport climb and calling your send a redpoint. Hell, "redpoint" is also a compromise of style.

But whatever! If there's one thing I love about climbing, it's the freedom I have to create my own version of the sport.

This site needs some kind of 'dangerous topic in the the thread' smiley, maybe some kind of tiny can full of red wigglers.

That said, I'm all for stick clipping if the bottom bit is scary.


jt512


Nov 22, 2008, 12:48 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
1-2 depending on the route. Usually it's one but i did the 2nd bolt instead of the first due to the bolt placement once. didn't effect the route any.

aggie "Sport: 5.10c" that's it?

for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s

In a situation like that, I'd normally stick clip two bolts.


jakedatc


Nov 22, 2008, 12:59 PM
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Re: [jt512] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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hehe the fat traddies wouldn't be able to make the leap.. :)


notapplicable


Nov 22, 2008, 1:33 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s



Holy crap the rock can break!! Shocked

Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.

uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.


Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.


joeforte


Nov 22, 2008, 1:45 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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Yeah why no "0" option??

I vote 0


jakedatc


Nov 22, 2008, 1:57 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s



Holy crap the rock can break!! Shocked

Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.

uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.


Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.

huh? if it was a 5.6 jug haul over sand it wouldn't need a clip either.. whats your point? (maybe i dont get what you're saying)

Joe i'm agreeing to disagree with you on this thread k ? haha


clausti


Nov 22, 2008, 2:13 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s



Holy crap the rock can break!! Shocked

Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.

uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.


Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.

and the climber mighta been dead. dunno if you noticed, but it bounced off the rope, is the only reason the death flake wasn't chasing him to the ground.


notapplicable


Nov 22, 2008, 2:39 PM
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Re: [clausti] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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clausti wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
notapplicable wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
for the non believers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s



Holy crap the rock can break!! Shocked

Thats it, I'm done with climbing, this shit is too dangerous.

uh huh.. if you want to do a jump start to what looked to be solid squamish granite and have that happen to you without a bolt clipped by all means go for it.


Meh, had the route been 18 ft. tall or lead to protectable climbing there would be no bolts and the jump start would still have been necessary.

and the climber mighta been dead. dunno if you noticed, but it bounced off the rope, is the only reason the death flake wasn't chasing him to the ground.


Yeah, he and his parter were pretty damn lucky thats for sure.

Most routes with loose rock potential are not going to have pre-clippable bolts to guard the way and Jake's post made it sound like anybody who uses what, in his own words, looked to be a solid granite flake are foolish for doing so.

So yeah I think I will continue to climb on holds that could break without having a "bolt clipped". Last I checked that was called rock climbing.


Oh and I'm just trolling a stick clipping thread so WinkPirateTongueAngelicSmile or which ever one is appropriate to show this is all in jest.


camhead


Nov 22, 2008, 2:49 PM
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Re: [notapplicable] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.

I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.

Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.


gogounou


Nov 22, 2008, 3:10 PM
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Re: [camhead] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.

I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.

Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.

Excellent. I always knew that my 25m stickclip would come in handy.


Partner angry


Nov 22, 2008, 3:13 PM
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Re: [gogounou] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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What?


joeforte


Nov 23, 2008, 7:33 AM
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Re: [jakedatc] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
Joe i'm agreeing to disagree with you on this thread k ? haha

Never fails Jake, I can always count on you for a counter-argument in a stick clip thread! Tongue

BTW, you'll be happy to hear that I actually stick clipped a route recently at Summersville. It had a back-breaking fall right off the ground. I didn't call it a redpoint though (mainly because it was a 13? and I flailed hardcore!)

Still, I would like a re-vote with a 0 option.


clausti


Nov 23, 2008, 7:56 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
Joe i'm agreeing to disagree with you on this thread k ? haha

Never fails Jake, I can always count on you for a counter-argument in a stick clip thread! Tongue

BTW, you'll be happy to hear that I actually stick clipped a route recently at Summersville. It had a back-breaking fall right off the ground. I didn't call it a redpoint though (mainly because it was a 13? and I flailed hardcore!)

Still, I would like a re-vote with a 0 option.

the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.

so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.


scottydo


Nov 23, 2008, 11:42 AM
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Re: [N_Oo_B] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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N_Oo_B wrote:
How many bolts can you stick clip and still call it a redpoint?

0


joeforte


Nov 23, 2008, 8:12 PM
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Re: [clausti] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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clausti wrote:
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.

so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.

I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.

Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0

Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c


(This post was edited by joeforte on Nov 23, 2008, 8:21 PM)


notapplicable


Nov 23, 2008, 9:38 PM
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Re: [camhead] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.


SlySly

Nicely done sir, it would appear idle hands do in fact do the devils work.


donald949


Nov 23, 2008, 11:06 PM
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Re: [camhead] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.

I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.

Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though.
Don


chossmonkey


Nov 24, 2008, 5:23 AM
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Re: [donald949] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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donald949 wrote:
camhead wrote:
I have actually figured out how to use a stick clip to place cams, which is awesome.

I still have ethics, though. I only clip my rope into the FIRST cam that I places. All the others that I place above it from the ground have to get clipped while I climb.

Also, if you can ever reach the anchors of a route with a stickclip, then you have automatically sent the route.
I've been known to go one or two moves up, place a cam up high, and clip it for my somewhat shorter partner. Just messing around and cragging though.
Don
Enabler!!!!


clausti


Nov 24, 2008, 6:20 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.

so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.

I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.

Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0

Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c


mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.


hansundfritz


Nov 24, 2008, 6:23 AM
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Re: [ryanb] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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ryanb wrote:
In many areas, stick clips are frowned upon and the accepted practice is to "boulder" to the first bolt.

This of course involves creating a stack of small to medium rocks, or "boulders", one can stand on to reach the bolt.

In areas where natural "boulders" are sparse or particularly heavy you may wish to employ special thick foam "boulder mats" for this purpose though in a pinch logs, spare tires, well trained dogs or the hood of your car will work equally well.

Or you can find me and ask to stand on my #12 Hex.


joeforte


Nov 24, 2008, 6:52 AM
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Re: [clausti] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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clausti wrote:
joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.

so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.

I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.

Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0

Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c


mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.

Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!


clausti


Nov 24, 2008, 7:35 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.

so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.

I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.

Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0

Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c


mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.

Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!

ok see, this is the difference: if i look at your profile on the site it was made at, i am using it in the intended application, which is hardly stalking.

and flailing all over it is usually what 5.10 climbers from PA do, so that part of your post was completely consistent with my deductions.


clausti


Nov 24, 2008, 7:35 AM
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joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.

so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.

I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.

Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0

Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c


mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.

Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!

ok see, this is the difference: if i look at your profile on the site it was made at, i am using it in the intended application, which is hardly stalking.

and flailing all over it is usually what 5.10 climbers from PA do, so that part of your post was completely consistent with my deductions.


clausti


Nov 24, 2008, 7:35 AM
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Re: [joeforte] Stick Clip Rules? [In reply to]
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joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
joeforte wrote:
clausti wrote:
the first bolt on apollo is on the 5.9 vertical intro.

so joeforte votes with stick clipping two bolts.

I'm not sure what route you're talking about, but the climb I was on had no vertical intro at all. I don't know the name of it, but some mutant 15 year old local told me it was a 13b/c. It started on a horizontal roof above a large nasty boulder. The first 2 bolts were fixed draws, so I lasso-clipped to avoid the spine snapper.

Thanks clausti, but I still vote 0

Edited cuz I just looked it up, Deep Throat 13c


mah bad. looked at your climbing log and figured that people who climb 5.10 and say they got on a .13 at summersville tried apollo.

Yeah, it's ok. Maybe I should keep up with my climbing log for all the stalkers. I redpoint about 12b/c sport, and onsight 11ish on trad, but that doesn't stop me from trying anything harder. Anyway, I believe I said I FLAILED on the thing, meaning I hung a lot!

ok see, this is the difference: if i look at your profile on the site it was made at, i am using it in the intended application, which is hardly stalking.

and flailing all over it is usually what 5.10 climbers from PA do, so that part of your post was completely consistent with my deductions.

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