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sungam
Dec 3, 2008, 9:10 PM
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jrathfon wrote: besides i think the most sent route is: PTFTW! with some PANCAKES!
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tradrenn
Dec 4, 2008, 1:54 AM
Post #77 of 141
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onceahardman wrote: In reply to: What do you think is the most popular route in Ontario ? (I know it sounds ridiculous) Final Finale Direct at Rattlesnake., or, crack #1 and crack #2, to the left, when the "instructors" are out.
I remember those now.
Are you from Ontario too ?
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mojomonkey
Dec 4, 2008, 5:33 AM
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jrathfon wrote: but if a 5 star 5.6 was by the car, say, in a place like maybe JTree... and still you can't deny that THE most popular route on the RC.com database is high E, not super accessable, has tons of PR, is trad (granted in an all trad area), and isn't just right on the carriage road closest to the parking lot (horseman's).
I dunno... I'd still bet Horseman gets more ascents than High E. Yes, there are lines for High E on weekends. At the same time, there is basically a constant toprope on Horseman or other Uberfall routes. And probably none of the 6 friends the toprope was set for is logging on to the web to report it.
Plus, when days are shorter or the weather is not perfect, people seem more inclined to get some quick laps in on Uberfall routes since they can get there and out faster.
So I am siding with those suggesting easy routes with short access in a high traffic area with year round climbing weather. The older the better - more time to log ascents.
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dingus
Dec 4, 2008, 5:46 AM
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A popular route at Stolby probably sees more ascents in a day than High E in a month.
I'm jus saying... take off the Myopics! Its a big ole world out there.
The Cable Route on Half Dome is without any shred of doubt whatsoever the most ascended rock climb in America.
But I still would guess some euro routes have even greater numbers.
But THOUSANDS of people have climbed Half Dome and that my friends is a pure rock climb.
DMT
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jrathfon
Dec 4, 2008, 6:24 AM
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aren't you hanging onto cables the whole way? isn't that more of a via ferratta?
i think we should make the cut off 5.0, is there a grade on the cable route?
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jrathfon
Dec 4, 2008, 6:24 AM
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it was a ptftw until someone deleted there post... lame.
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shockabuku
Dec 4, 2008, 6:30 AM
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mojomonkey wrote: jrathfon wrote: but if a 5 star 5.6 was by the car, say, in a place like maybe JTree... and still you can't deny that THE most popular route on the RC.com database is high E, not super accessable, has tons of PR, is trad (granted in an all trad area), and isn't just right on the carriage road closest to the parking lot (horseman's). I dunno... I'd still bet Horseman gets more ascents than High E. Yes, there are lines for High E on weekends. At the same time, there is basically a constant toprope on Horseman or other Uberfall routes. And probably none of the 6 friends the toprope was set for is logging on to the web to report it. Plus, when days are shorter or the weather is not perfect, people seem more inclined to get some quick laps in on Uberfall routes since they can get there and out faster. So I am siding with those suggesting easy routes with short access in a high traffic area with year round climbing weather. The older the better - more time to log ascents.
I'd guess Laurel. It's always being toproped. But not a line like the pic of Half Dome that dingus put up. Horseman scares me every time I climb it. Especially the rap off the pins with the crappy webbing all over the place.
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markc
Dec 4, 2008, 6:32 AM
Post #84 of 141
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tradrenn wrote: markc wrote: I've never climbed at the Gunks, Respectometer plummeting. 
You're not the first to scold me for it. I guess I drove reasonably close to the Gunks on my way to the Adirondacks. Does that help or hurt my case?
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dingus
Dec 4, 2008, 6:41 AM
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jrathfon wrote: aren't you hanging onto cables the whole way? isn't that more of a via ferratta? i think we should make the cut off 5.0, is there a grade on the cable route?
Its a rock climb dude. If you don't believe me huff on up the Mist Trail and give R a go.
You'll see....
DMT
ps. if you eliminate half dome for its aid then you have to eliminate the Nose and any route with any fixed anything... for the same reason. Aid is aid despite sport climbing protests.
(This post was edited by dingus on Dec 4, 2008, 6:43 AM)
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markc
Dec 4, 2008, 6:45 AM
Post #86 of 141
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dingus wrote: A popular route at Stolby probably sees more ascents in a day than High E in a month.
If some of you haven't seen the video, it's worth a look. They've been climbing in Stolby for 150 years, and they grow their climbers really young. Good call.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 4, 2008, 6:45 AM
Post #87 of 141
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dingus wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dingus wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dingus wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: For Hans Klaus or everyone who came after him? It'd be an impressive FA with hemp rope and hip belays, but it's not really as exciting as everyone makes it out to be with today's equipment. You meant Kraus, of course! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hans_Kraus Cheers DMT Klaus, Kraus - who's spelling. Fine, be a dumbass. And YOU'RE WELCOME. DMT  Must be the lack of exercise. Loyal Dobbins once said something similar. Warrant Hardley agreed. DMT
So did Time Magazine.
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jrathfon
Dec 4, 2008, 6:47 AM
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my ex-gf has a multitude of pics for the "climb". even one with more cows in the chute.
yes, you are climbing a rock, and you are climbing on rock, but does it constitute most people's definition of "a rock climbing route"?
it was a question. does it have a grade? 3rd?
still, aren't there stairs chiseled into the rock and a hand railing of cable the entire way?
mt. monadnock is a rock. it's a rock summit. and it IS the most climbed mountain in the world, since mt. fuji started bus service to the top. Soooo, my vote is mt. monadnock if we are using lame definitions for rock climbing routes.
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dingus
Dec 4, 2008, 6:48 AM
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Yeah yeah folks who have never been up the cables have all sorts of opinions about them.
I say give em a go.... right now. When that route was established it was the hardest rock climb in North America and it stayed that way for decades.
DMT
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jrathfon
Dec 4, 2008, 6:53 AM
Post #90 of 141
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answer the question? grade? cables the whole way? chiseled stairs?
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olderic
Dec 4, 2008, 7:00 AM
Post #91 of 141
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If Dingus's premise is that Half Dome would require 5th class climbing on the Cables Route if it was in it's natural state then Monadnock doesn't quite compare. One local "mountain" that does though is the Beehive at Acadia National Park in Maine. Iron rungs form ladders up short sections of definitely 5th class rock. It's right next to the road and the huge Sand Beech Parking lot. There is a huge conga line going up it every day.
I though early on in this thread someone made the qualification that the ascents had to include using a rope? Arbitrary rule to be sure but it effectively rules out these hiking suggestions. I think it was also implicit that top roping is not included - although if it requires a lead to set up the TR?
Whatever - it's going to end up being some obscure route near a huge population center.
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dingus
Dec 4, 2008, 7:03 AM
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Certainly a 5th class climb. No hacked steps. Most folks aid it for sure. Most folks here would aid it too.
But make no mistake its a rock climb by any measure. ANY measure.
DMT
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markc
Dec 4, 2008, 7:10 AM
Post #93 of 141
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olderic wrote: I though early on in this thread someone made the qualification that the ascents had to include using a rope? Arbitrary rule to be sure but it effectively rules out these hiking suggestions. I think it was also implicit that top roping is not included - although if it requires a lead to set up the TR?
The OP stated 'roped climbs' as opposed to boulder problems. I wouldn't rule out free soloing or toprope ascents. If we want to cloud the waters even more, we should decide if via ferratas are in the mix.
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tradrenn
Dec 4, 2008, 10:48 AM
Post #94 of 141
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markc wrote: tradrenn wrote: markc wrote: I've never climbed at the Gunks, Respectometer plummeting. You're not the first to scold me for it. I guess I drove reasonably close to the Gunks on my way to the Adirondacks. Does that help or hurt my case?
Respectometer going back up.
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tradrenn
Dec 4, 2008, 10:51 AM
Post #95 of 141
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shockabuku wrote: Horseman scares me every time I climb it. Especially the rap off the pins with the crappy webbing all over the place.
Next time rap from the top of it, 60m. rope does it.
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cracklover
Dec 4, 2008, 11:08 AM
Post #96 of 141
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tradrenn wrote: shockabuku wrote: Horseman scares me every time I climb it. Especially the rap off the pins with the crappy webbing all over the place. Next time rap from the top of it, 60m. rope does it.
If by "does it" you mean leaves you dangling 20 feet from the ground! Ha - seen that one many times, and I always get a kick out of it!
Funniest thing about it is that the topout is a 60 second walk from the Uberfall walk-off.
GO
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tradrenn
Dec 4, 2008, 11:23 AM
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Last time I did it it was 2 feet off the ground, I'm pretty sure I used 60.
Edit: Ups, it was 70, sorry about that.
V.
(This post was edited by tradrenn on Dec 4, 2008, 11:27 AM)
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granite_grrl
Dec 4, 2008, 11:35 AM
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tradrenn wrote: Last time I did it it was 2 feet off the ground, I'm pretty sure I used 60. Edit: Ups, it was 70, sorry about that. V.
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olderic
Dec 4, 2008, 11:40 AM
Post #99 of 141
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rapping within 1/2 a mile of the Uberfall should be illegal. Be sure to do what I say not what I do though.
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dudemanbu
Dec 4, 2008, 3:30 PM
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Lonesome dove is so not .10a.. that thing would be 5.8 at the gunks.
jrathfon wrote: More info: most popular at Cathedral: Thin Air, 5.6, 89 (shocker, i know) Whitehorse: Standard Route, 5.5, 62 and, bum bum bum, Rumney: Lonesome Dove, 10a, 86 Glory Jean's, 5.6, 81 are the two most popular routes. what's interesting there is that on one hand you have a mega classic, harder than moderate climb with a long hike (in Rumney standard's), compared to an easy, super accessable moderate. |
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