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jrathfon
Dec 4, 2008, 9:04 PM
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no disagreement it'd be an 8 at the gunks, but grades are consensus and area based, not to mention the guidebook states it as such. i hope you felt more manly pissing on that grade. i don't climb at rumney personally because of the crowds. the routes at the gunks are worth actually waiting for, occasionally.
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dudemanbu
Dec 4, 2008, 9:48 PM
Post #102 of 141
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jrathfon wrote: no disagreement it'd be an 8 at the gunks, but grades are consensus and area based, not to mention the guidebook states it as such. i hope you felt more manly pissing on that grade. i don't climb at rumney personally because of the crowds. the routes at the gunks are worth actually waiting for, occasionally.
It's not pissing on the grade, it's making a point that lonesome dove is a moderate on par with something like High E, and would receive a lot of ascents accordingly. It's a very nice climb too.
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tradrenn
Dec 4, 2008, 11:42 PM
Post #103 of 141
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granite_grrl wrote: tradrenn wrote: Last time I did it it was 2 feet off the ground, I'm pretty sure I used 60. Edit: Ups, it was 70, sorry about that. V. Every time I've done the route we rap with a 60m and end up ~2 feet from the ground. I don't think you were mistaken, Voytek. You'd have slack on the ground with a 70m.
Thanks Becca, it's been a while since I've done Horseman.
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onceahardman
Dec 5, 2008, 9:14 AM
Post #104 of 141
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olderic wrote: rapping within 1/2 a mile of the Uberfall should be illegal. Be sure to do what I say not what I do though.
That's it, the most climbed "route" is the Uberfall, although the sign of the direction of the climb is usually negative, it is downclimbed many hundreds of times a day.
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sungam
Dec 5, 2008, 10:52 AM
Post #105 of 141
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onceahardman wrote: olderic wrote: rapping within 1/2 a mile of the Uberfall should be illegal. Be sure to do what I say not what I do though. That's it, the most climbed "route" is the Uberfall, although the sign of the direction of the climb is usually negative, it is downclimbed many hundreds of times a day.
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limeydave
Dec 5, 2008, 10:59 AM
Post #106 of 141
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sungam wrote: onceahardman wrote: olderic wrote: rapping within 1/2 a mile of the Uberfall should be illegal. Be sure to do what I say not what I do though. That's it, the most climbed "route" is the Uberfall, although the sign of the direction of the climb is usually negative, it is downclimbed many hundreds of times a day. That would be negitive ascents, making it possibly the LEAST climbed route in the world.
Or maybe the most Unclimbed
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sungam
Dec 5, 2008, 11:02 AM
Post #107 of 141
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limeydave wrote: sungam wrote: onceahardman wrote: olderic wrote: rapping within 1/2 a mile of the Uberfall should be illegal. Be sure to do what I say not what I do though. That's it, the most climbed "route" is the Uberfall, although the sign of the direction of the climb is usually negative, it is downclimbed many hundreds of times a day. That would be negitive ascents, making it possibly the LEAST climbed route in the world. Or maybe the most Unclimbed
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Gmburns2000
Dec 5, 2008, 11:15 AM
Post #108 of 141
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olderic wrote: rapping within 1/2 a mile of the Uberfall should be illegal. Be sure to do what I say not what I do though.
Booo! You're impacting the vegetation more by walking off.
[jumps behind stone wall, covers head, and waits for teflon bullets]
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Gmburns2000
Dec 5, 2008, 11:17 AM
Post #109 of 141
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dudemanbu wrote: Lonesome dove is so not .10a.. that thing would be 5.8 at the gunks.
This is correct. In fact, I think it's not even a 10 at Rumney, but maybe the climb just fits my style.
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olderic
Dec 5, 2008, 11:27 AM
Post #110 of 141
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Booo! You're impacting the vegetation more by walking off. [jumps behind stone wall, covers head, and waits for teflon bullets]
That is the standard counter argument but I say that's just a rationalization to justify one's only lazy ass behavior. If there was such a concern about cliff top environmental impact then (in theory) trail work could be done up there - wouldn't have to be up to the standard of the pseudo works of art done on the approach trails but some basic hardening and consolidation of herd paths could be accomplished.
But I think most climbers (and everyone else) only walk the green talk until it gets too inconvenient. You want to limit environmental impact? Fine - just eliminate all parking within 3 miles of ther cliffs. Done.
What I do know is that people rapping down on my head (or throwing ropes left and right, or needing assistence to rap of) is impacting MY experience. And, yup, it's MY experience I care about.
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sungam
Dec 5, 2008, 11:38 AM
Post #111 of 141
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Hook line and sinker. Nice one, greg never thought anyone would bite at that.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 5, 2008, 11:45 AM
Post #112 of 141
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olderic wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Booo! You're impacting the vegetation more by walking off. [jumps behind stone wall, covers head, and waits for teflon bullets] That is the standard counter argument but I say that's just a rationalization to justify one's only lazy ass behavior. If there was such a concern about cliff top environmental impact then (in theory) trail work could be done up there - wouldn't have to be up to the standard of the pseudo works of art done on the approach trails but some basic hardening and consolidation of herd paths could be accomplished.
Well, actually, a cliff top trail would have an even greater impact (cause the grass would definitely die), but...
In reply to: But I think most climbers (and everyone else) only walk the green talk until it gets too inconvenient. You want to limit environmental impact? Fine - just eliminate all parking within 3 miles of ther cliffs. Done.
...yeah, it's the old "protesting animal rights while wearing leather shoes" argument. Activitism only goes as far as people are willing to let it affect their lives...
In reply to: What I do know is that people rapping down on my head (or throwing ropes left and right, or needing assistence to rap of) is impacting MY experience. And, yup, it's MY experience I care about.
...as you duly note.
But my assertion is that a few inches pounded into dead rock is both convenient and helps to protect the cliff's top. Parking three miles away would only help to achieve one of those aims, and even then it would only achieve the goal beyond three miles (because anything closer would, presumably, be affected moreso - because you're closer - again, back to the argument noted above, which would essentially state that no parking is allowed anywhere and I'm not ever going to advocate that).
Still, the part of your argument that I respect the most is your honesty: its the climbing experience that you're after, and I don't have any gripe with honesty.
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olderic
Dec 5, 2008, 11:45 AM
Post #113 of 141
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sungam wrote: Hook line and sinker. Nice one, greg never thought anyone would bite at that.
Ah my young man-without-a-country grasshopper - you still have a lot of knowledge to gain regarding the levels of trolling.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 5, 2008, 11:46 AM
Post #114 of 141
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sungam wrote: Hook line and sinker. Nice one, greg never thought anyone would bite at that.
Actually, he might have been fishing for me, not the other way around.
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sungam
Dec 5, 2008, 1:07 PM
Post #115 of 141
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Gmburns2000 wrote: sungam wrote: Hook line and sinker. Nice one, greg never thought anyone would bite at that. Actually, he might have been fishing for me, not the other way around. 
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bigredscowboy
Dec 7, 2008, 10:16 PM
Post #116 of 141
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jrathfon wrote: Routes over 11a with more than 15 ascents: The Sting, 11d, 15.... that's it.
Fuzzy Undercling (11a) at the RRG has 119. It was my first outdoor lead and redpoint/onsight. I waited in line for it in December! and there were people waiting behind me. Super classic. And yes, eastern KY is "east coast."
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jrathfon
Dec 8, 2008, 6:52 AM
Post #117 of 141
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bigredscowboy wrote: jrathfon wrote: Routes over 11a with more than 15 ascents: The Sting, 11d, 15.... that's it. Fuzzy Undercling (11a) at the RRG has 119. It was my first outdoor lead and redpoint/onsight. I waited in line for it in December! and there were people waiting behind me. Super classic. And yes, eastern KY is "east coast."
Good thing I stated I was only mentioning Gunks routes... reading comprehension, it's a bitch.
Also, nice spray.
Wasn't it an onsight/redpoint/flash?
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Maddhatter
Dec 14, 2008, 10:16 AM
Post #118 of 141
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I don't think there is a way to know for sure but theres a good chance that some of the climbs at J-tree would top the list.
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Lazlo
Dec 14, 2008, 10:24 AM
Post #119 of 141
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jrathfon wrote: besides i think the most sent route is: PTFTW! with some PANCAKES!
...fail?
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Lazlo
Dec 14, 2008, 10:25 AM
Post #120 of 141
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jrathfon wrote: it was a ptftw until someone deleted there post... lame.
i retract my statement.
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jrathfon
Dec 14, 2008, 8:08 PM
Post #121 of 141
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ya so it turns out somebody here, who shall remain nameless, makes superfluous posts, just so he can delete them, and make other people eat their own PTFTWers.... I'd say it still counts in my book, since somebody ain't really playin' by the rules.
also, i don't really care. that's the real shame in this matter.
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jrathfon
Dec 14, 2008, 8:11 PM
Post #122 of 141
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p.s. can you guess who?
he pm'ed me his brilliant strategy, then swore me to secrecy...
i think he should get the banz! at least for a week, this would shatter his world.
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Lazlo
Dec 14, 2008, 8:13 PM
Post #123 of 141
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is it the Magnus?
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jrathfon
Dec 14, 2008, 8:15 PM
Post #124 of 141
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awwwwwwwwww, i didn't tell you...
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Lazlo
Dec 14, 2008, 8:24 PM
Post #125 of 141
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...wait for it...
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