|
pmyche
Mar 18, 2009, 3:50 PM
Post #26 of 50
(5929 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160
|
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Mar 18, 2009, 4:20 PM
Post #27 of 50
(5909 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
This is an interesting consideration. The static vs. dynamic haul line. I must add, however, the amazing amount of stretch that a "static" line can actually have at full length. I tend to prefer the term "low elongation" for this reason. Anyway. I'm bored, at work, and in the mood to make long-winded posts.
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Mar 18, 2009, 4:41 PM
Post #28 of 50
(5902 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
Pmyche wrote: I've used PTs a lot, including jugging on them on weighted lines. It can be done without disastrous results. Again, techniques can be employed to mitigate hazards. This is needless and senseless action. From this statement alone I do not believe you should even have a public opinion, and wish you would refrain from spouting off about things you should not. There are methods and techniques that allow jugging the haul line, but none of these involve jugging on any hauling device or a loaded line. The methods include tying an alpine butterfly to the rope and anchoring this for rapping and jugging. The other is to use a prussic below the device to bear the juggers weight. It is and always has been a bad idea to jug a weighted line. This adds unnecessary wear over edges and makes going over these edges way more dificult than it need to be. It also adds to the forces involved should a mishap occur. This being an example. With three, the third climber jugs the line and the second lowers the bag once the line is freed up. Your method has been dubbed the "suicide haul" for a reason. DO NOT DO THIS. EVER. Pmyche also wrote: It's not hard for me to imagine. I've taken a fall on rap, so I know what falling on a fixed line threaded thru a PT feels like. Anyone who's fallen seconding the start of a free pitch knows. I don't want to do it either, Styn, but given that unexpected mishap I would much rather be on dynamic. Much. It is my opinion you should refrain from giving anyone advice, as you clearly are a dangerous individual. The fact that you fell on rap, on a toothed device, lets me, and everyone else see that your judgement of safe technique needs some reassesment on your part. I can not think of any emergency that would force me into this situation. In a previous post you wrote: It doesn't say the haul line was weighted. I think it was not. I think they got in a hurry to get James up there so they could let out the bag and clean. The haul line was weighted, as determined and reported last fall, when the accident happened. It was also determined that there was a backup knot used, although it was 15 feet above the Protrax, bad form indeed. Pmyche also wrote above: As usual, layers of mistakes led to incident: 1 Not backing up the hauler 2 Not using the biner lock on the hauler 3 Using a static line Take any one of those mistakes out and there probably would not have been an accident. Point one is that there was no backup, but the backup is what indeed did hit the hauler after fifteen feet of slack went through. Point two says there was operator error, and I could not agree more, but the lack of using a biner is just a minor point on this, many other wrongs were done. Point three is strictly from your and a few others opinion, and a narrow minded one at that. I would challenge you to actually learn your craft, practice it right, and then maybe give the advice you seem to want to give. Only please, do not let others get the impression that your way is right. You are dangerous man. Bob Oh yea, Alpine07 and GenearZon, I did not mean for it to sound like I condoned people top roping or leading on these toothed devices,(see your and my posts above) I do not. I simply stated it happens everyday, by higher end climbers as well as gumbys. Sorry for the confusion.
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Mar 18, 2009, 4:58 PM
Post #29 of 50
(5892 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Just a little clarification here, if it adds anything to the discussion. I don't have a pro trax but I do have a mini-trax. Comparing the teeth on it to the teeth on my Petzl Ascension ascenders, the mini-trax teeth are shorter and not as sharp. They are very much still teeth but aren't as aggressive. I've toproped thousands of feet on my mini-trax. I attempt not to fall when I do it but I have. I've fully peeled mid move with up to 3 feet of slack in the rope. The fall was completely inconsequential and it didn't hurt my rope. Not saying it's good or bad but it does work. I'm satisfied with the analysis of this accident. A weighted rope plus 15' of slack. Lots of ways to prevent both scenarios, whether on a static or dynamic rope. I spent the day across the valley from James and never knew he was there, we left just minutes before the fall happened.
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Mar 18, 2009, 5:15 PM
Post #30 of 50
(5884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
Angry, please do not see this as an attack on you. But climbing on a toothed device is akin to me checking whether one of my revolvers is loaded by looking at it from the front, is it not. It will in fact let me get what I want (climb solo/find if it is loaded) but it really is not a good idea, as in proper methods do exist. Bob
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Mar 18, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #31 of 50
(5872 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
xtrmecat wrote: Angry, please do not see this as an attack on you. But climbing on a toothed device is akin to me checking whether one of my revolvers is loaded by looking at it from the front, is it not. It will in fact let me get what I want (climb solo/find if it is loaded) but it really is not a good idea, as in proper methods do exist. Bob I don't want to hijack this, and I'm well aware of TRing on toothed ascenders. My point was that the teeth are smaller and less likely to damage the rope. Most of the time, when I'm in a situation I'm going to fall, I just sit back on the rope. I have fallen and it's worked fine and in fact hasn't hurt the rope at all. We all need to choose our own level of safety though. If you're uncomfortable TRing on a mini-trax, I'm not going to ask you to start. I believe that with my backup that the safety I have is enough. Maybe not the safest but I'm willing to justify it due to it's convenience.
|
|
|
|
|
dingus
Mar 18, 2009, 6:36 PM
Post #32 of 50
(5854 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
|
Nothing we do is 'safest.' Safest is not climbing at all. We all choose our levels of comfort. I've grown comfortable with the risks of a mini trax self belay too. I don't pitch off on that rig very much either. Pitching off routes I can't really climb isn't the reason I want a self belay top rope to begin with. Take the opposite position - WBraun (in his own words) used to free solo routes every day. His long time friend Kauk counseled him one day... dude you are going to die if you keep doing that. So now Braun uses a single mini-trax as a backup. I bet he falls no more on that trax than he did on the ground.... its there *just in case.* DMT
|
|
|
|
|
iron106
Mar 18, 2009, 7:38 PM
Post #33 of 50
(5835 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2008
Posts: 213
|
Better than a self belay with a Tibloc. I have seen that as well, Just in case.
|
|
|
|
|
pmyche
Mar 19, 2009, 1:06 AM
Post #35 of 50
(5785 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160
|
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 19, 2009, 3:08 AM
Post #36 of 50
(5740 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Mar 19, 2009, 3:13 AM
Post #37 of 50
(5739 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
You spent the afternoon doing what I spent the afternoon doing?
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 19, 2009, 3:20 AM
Post #38 of 50
(5735 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Mar 19, 2009, 3:32 AM
Post #39 of 50
(5730 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
No, I was TRing a sport route that converged on a pre-existing and much more proud trad line. I managed to remove all the bolts that you could clip from the trad route, replace them elsewhere, and come up with a distinct sport route that doesn't have bolts next to cracks, is the natural line that should have been bolted in the first place, and is fun. Yet I'm still probably going to the irate phone call of the century over it.
|
|
|
|
|
adatesman
Mar 19, 2009, 3:56 AM
Post #40 of 50
(5726 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
|
|
|
|
|
|
iron106
Mar 19, 2009, 7:53 PM
Post #42 of 50
(5679 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2008
Posts: 213
|
angry wrote: xtrmecat wrote: Angry, please do not see this as an attack on you. But climbing on a toothed device is akin to me checking whether one of my revolvers is loaded by looking at it from the front, is it not. It will in fact let me get what I want (climb solo/find if it is loaded) but it really is not a good idea, as in proper methods do exist. Bob I don't want to hijack this, and I'm well aware of TRing on toothed ascenders. My point was that the teeth are smaller and less likely to damage the rope. Most of the time, when I'm in a situation I'm going to fall, I just sit back on the rope. I have fallen and it's worked fine and in fact hasn't hurt the rope at all. We all need to choose our own level of safety though. If you're uncomfortable TRing on a mini-trax, I'm not going to ask you to start. I believe that with my backup that the safety I have is enough. Maybe not the safest but I'm willing to justify it due to it's convenience. I looked at the store last night and the teeth look 100% EXACTLY the same on a Mini trax and the Pro. The pully and the rest are different. However, The teeth are the same.
|
|
|
|
|
clintcummins
Mar 19, 2009, 8:34 PM
Post #43 of 50
(5663 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 135
|
I am not sure why people seem to emphasize that some ascenders have (small) "teeth". On Jumars these are small cone-shaped points. On other types of ascenders, they are similar, or they might be "ribs". Either way, they are not like teeth found in our jaws. They help initiate the clamping/camming process by providing friction. http://storrick.cnchost.com/...cender/HandleEC.html I believe it is not the teeth or other texture on the surface which makes them sever a rope under a large load. The rope is being clamped or pinched between two metal objects, so force is concentrated over a relatively small area. All rope dynamics for absorbing energy are above this clamping spot, unlike a knot on your harness which will tighten in a fall and absorb significant energy.
(This post was edited by clintcummins on Mar 19, 2009, 8:35 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
kristoffer
Mar 27, 2009, 8:28 AM
Post #44 of 50
(5539 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 1, 2005
Posts: 55
|
xtrmecat wrote: Pmyche wrote: I've used PTs a lot, including jugging on them on weighted lines. It can be done without disastrous results. Again, techniques can be employed to mitigate hazards. This is needless and senseless action. From this statement alone I do not believe you should even have a public opinion, and wish you would refrain from spouting off about things you should not. There are methods and techniques that allow jugging the haul line, but none of these involve jugging on any hauling device or a loaded line. The methods include tying an alpine butterfly to the rope and anchoring this for rapping and jugging. The other is to use a prussic below the device to bear the juggers weight. It is and always has been a bad idea to jug a weighted line. This adds unnecessary wear over edges and makes going over these edges way more dificult than it need to be. It also adds to the forces involved should a mishap occur. This being an example. With three, the third climber jugs the line and the second lowers the bag once the line is freed up. Your method has been dubbed the "suicide haul" for a reason. DO NOT DO THIS. EVER. Pmyche also wrote: It's not hard for me to imagine. I've taken a fall on rap, so I know what falling on a fixed line threaded thru a PT feels like. Anyone who's fallen seconding the start of a free pitch knows. I don't want to do it either, Styn, but given that unexpected mishap I would much rather be on dynamic. Much. It is my opinion you should refrain from giving anyone advice, as you clearly are a dangerous individual. The fact that you fell on rap, on a toothed device, lets me, and everyone else see that your judgement of safe technique needs some reassesment on your part. I can not think of any emergency that would force me into this situation. In a previous post you wrote: It doesn't say the haul line was weighted. I think it was not. I think they got in a hurry to get James up there so they could let out the bag and clean. The haul line was weighted, as determined and reported last fall, when the accident happened. It was also determined that there was a backup knot used, although it was 15 feet above the Protrax, bad form indeed. Pmyche also wrote above: As usual, layers of mistakes led to incident: 1 Not backing up the hauler 2 Not using the biner lock on the hauler 3 Using a static line Take any one of those mistakes out and there probably would not have been an accident. Point one is that there was no backup, but the backup is what indeed did hit the hauler after fifteen feet of slack went through. Point two says there was operator error, and I could not agree more, but the lack of using a biner is just a minor point on this, many other wrongs were done. Point three is strictly from your and a few others opinion, and a narrow minded one at that. I would challenge you to actually learn your craft, practice it right, and then maybe give the advice you seem to want to give. Only please, do not let others get the impression that your way is right. You are dangerous man. Bob Oh yea, Alpine07 and GenearZon, I did not mean for it to sound like I condoned people top roping or leading on these toothed devices,(see your and my posts above) I do not. I simply stated it happens everyday, by higher end climbers as well as gumbys. Sorry for the confusion. Damn Pmyche, you sure do sound like dangerous individual! good thing you don't have a public opinion anymore... an opinion could be a really dangerous thing. but anyways it seems it would be a good idea and go repeat the last quarter century of big wall climbing that you have done.. that might be a good challenge and maybe a way to actually learn your craft! hahaha what a crock if i have ever heard one! every point that Pmyche laid out seems extremely reasonable to me. 1 Not backing up the hauler 2 Not using the biner lock on the hauler 3 Using a static line #3 thats a good one... A static haul line use to be my first choice.. but a few wild climbing situations quickly had me aboard with the all static system. .. i actualy cant think of one valid argument to support the use of static lines for walls. xtrmecat, by looking at your profile it appears you have done a little aid climbing, so hopefully you are familiar with what a funkness is... seems those guys built a 15 foot static funkness... scetchy! i wouldn't want to be involved with that... i think that was the final mistake that tipped the scale for those guys. much like Pmyche i have also fallen on a toothed device, completely different situation but regardless, spend enough time doing something and you will experience allot of different things. good thing it happened on a thick dynamic line or i would have had a much higher possibly of the chop. wow xtrmecat, you are a preachy idavidual.. seems like you tottaly know the best solutions and ways to do everything.. but yeah like they say, jack of all trades, master of none. so maybe you might acutely be able to learn a thing or two and improve some skills by cutting your crap. once again, in your profile it says you recently started to get into aid. damn, why then would you even feel like you could justify chastising a master big wall veteran like Pmyche... dude you must be a kook. Pmyche was just putting out relevant information that pertains to this accident. i guess some people never out grow the gumby stage.... -zephyr
|
|
|
|
|
theclaw
Apr 29, 2009, 3:18 AM
Post #45 of 50
(5226 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 10, 2008
Posts: 10
|
Dynamic ropes are great for holding falls because they stretch on impact; the moment they are loaded. Think about ascending a loaded dynamic rope, all the stretch in the rope is gone and the benefits of the rope's dynamicy are greatly diminished. Especially using the same rope repeatedly as a haul line, the strength of the rope's core would not be the same quality it once was. I don't think the dynamic rope would give you much or any benefit. I've never big walled though. Seems to me the pro-traxion was unnecessary in this situation. At least pulling 15 feet of slack through it is. the 15 ft of slack in my opinion the crucial mistake that caused this accident. had there been no slack rope to weight, the jumars would not have had such forces applied on them. but i've never big-walled, so who knows.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
May 19, 2009, 8:04 AM
Post #46 of 50
(5101 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on May 29, 2009, 1:22 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
tarsier
May 19, 2009, 12:44 PM
Post #47 of 50
(5064 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 7, 2003
Posts: 127
|
"We all know the Wall Hauler is too weak for any serious wall use, yet there it was the A5 Big Wall Tech Manual. " Anybody care to enlighten me before I take the big ride?
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jun 2, 2009, 6:59 PM
Post #48 of 50
(4899 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
tarsier wrote: "We all know the Wall Hauler is too weak for any serious wall use, yet there it was the A5 Big Wall Tech Manual. " Anybody care to enlighten me before I take the big ride? On long grade 6's, where you are bringing the kitchen sink and the water supply that entails, both the Protraxion and the Wall Haulers have failed or on other occasions nearly so, with the heavy weight loads. People still use both devices though. Do a search for user PTPP and he was discussing near mishaps with protraxions on this very site long long ago. He still rails long and hard against their usage in any circumstance, and has many, many big walls under his belt. James death was due to a ProTraxion failure. Not a Jumar failure. This isn't about whether a Mini-Trax will cut a rope. Plenty of people use mini-traxions successfully. Different device, DIFFERENT ROPE as well! Nor does a 15'-20' fall onto a full on pig weighted (and most likely well used) static line indicate rope failure. It doesn't equate to anything indicating the Petzl Ascenders failed as well. This is so far out of the design parameters for both the rope and ascenders that we should all assume that's just the way it happens. Even with all that the ascenders didn't appear to have failed. Our efforts and attention should be 100% focused on the Pro Traxion. They say it's rated to 8kn, and is easy to use for WALL HAULING. So what is the real story? THIS story here about James death is about a Pro Traxion not doing it's job. Perhaps it was rigged correctly and failed, like others have experienced. Perhaps not. Most likely, as it wasn't a huge El Cap route, their hauling weight and James bodyweight would be well under the design parameters noted. We are left wondering what happened. Anyone have a used one to send to Aric for testing? If not, lets toss in some money for him to buy one and he's willing. Had we done this back when the town crier (Pass The Pitons Pete) was yelling about what a POS the Protrax was, James might still be alive. Who can say what tomorrow's possible sad news will bring us. Interesting I searched but couldn't find Petes posts on rc.com about this. Some additional reading, 2nd poster Mike starts off talking about destroying first a Wall Hauler then using a Pro Trax for loads less than 100lbs before describing some more systems. : http://www.bigwalls.com/...ndex.php?topic=324.0 Here's Petes reply on Supertopo.
Pass the Pitons Pete wrote: How sad. Condolences to the family. It is not 100% clear to me that the climber was jugging the weighted haul line. One assumes this to be the case since the weight of the pig is mentioned, but are we sure of this? Here are the problems: no carabiner was clipped through the holes to hold the plates together, which was the fundamental error made by the leader the leader also failed to tie a backup knot just above the Pro-Trax, which you should always do when you have a "live" load The biggest problem, of course, is that the Pro-Trax is a Piece Of Sh|t. I have been telling you guys this - on this climbing forum and on others - FOR YEARS, yet in spite of my caveats, many of you have wasted money buying this thing.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jun 2, 2009, 7:14 PM
Post #49 of 50
(4889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
Petes next post on the Supertopo thread:
PTPP wrote: Pro-Trax is a piece of junk. You-all should do yourselves a favour, and throw yours away. At least be careful when using the thing so you don't end up dead, or your pig doesn't end up on the deck In reply to: Followed by this in his NEXT post PTPP wrote: That's because it's a fukkin' piece of junk! Petzl really ought to take that crap off the market, and invent a better one. It's not freakin' rocket science, it's a pulley and a cam! Duh. |
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jun 2, 2009, 7:21 PM
Post #50 of 50
(4613 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
OK, found one of the later PTPP posts on rc.com. http://www.rockclimbing.com/...32%3Bt=search_engine
ptpp wrote: .......... The Pro-Trax is an overpriced piece of junk with serious design flaws. Tom has talked about them over on McTopo. I've destroyed two on the wall, have personally seen one other failure, and read of other failures. You might be OK if you're not hauling really huge loads. The problem is that if the thing is torqued at all, it gets buggered. For only a few bucks more, you can get the amazingly better and very strong Kong Block Roll, with a much bigger pulley, better bearings, and hugely easier to haul. The thing is emphatically The Shit. Great device, unfortunately the damn supplier is terrible at getting the things over to North America. I've had a half-dozen on backorder since the summer, when they told me they would have them! [They now say Nov 15, so we shall see] Don't buy a Pro-Trax. Better to buy a nice big 4" pulley with sweet bearings, and use your own inverted ascender. Just hang your ascender on a wired stopper, not a sling, to reduce stretch. Cheers, Pete
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|