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Gmburns2000


Aug 7, 2011, 6:39 PM
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Re: [losbill] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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losbill wrote:
Cory ditto the "very cool story" really enjoyed it.

Josh I got humbled at North Conway this weekend as well but in a somewhat less worthy and definitely more painful manner.

losbill wrote:
Despite three days on Cannon recently, no epics. Headed up to North Conway this weekend to get challenged on some hard, at least for me 5.9, crack climbs. May have an epic or two to relate when I get back.

Well under the heading of careful on what you "wish" for, here's the story

Partner slepted in so we didn't reach the start of Recompense (5.9) until 8:30 AM. Predictably there was a cast of thousands already there. Looked over and The Saigons were open. Cruised up those. Approached Pine Tree Eliminate and unbelievably a second was just leaving the ground and there was no one waiting. Nine years ago in my first year of trad climbing, following only, I followed Pine Tree Eliminate (5.8+). Made a mental note that I would like to lead it someday at that time. The few times I have been by it since it has been tied up. Jumped on it and really enjoyed it. Did have some issues getting in good gear in the steep first bit but the jams were so good it wasn't an issue.

Walked down and considered a couple of options. As Josh has noted it was humid but decided to go get Recompense done nevertheless, my partner Tom wanted to get the redpoint of the third pitch that he had been humbled on earlier in the season.

I took the Chimney pitch, cruising up without a problem until right at the end. I am at the stance at the base of the layback section 10 feet from the belay edge. Didn't find the pro I expected due to misprocessing my partner's gear beta. "No Bill, your other left side." Last gear was well beneath my feet. Bad judgement then occurred. Didn't really have my head in the game, the beers were calling and I was chatting with the couple at the belay just a few feet above. Although a bit challenging I was pretty confident about being able to move up the last bit without difficulty. Knew the #3 cam below was solid and the fall, albeit long, should be clean.

Stepped up, swung into the left-angling layback and up I went. Stopped near the top, stepped out on face with left foot on a good nub to consider my options for gaining the ledge. Two moves to go, decided to continue laybacking. While shifting back into the layback off went the feet, sending me off in a horizontal position. Took a twenty+ footer and I'm mainly intact. However caught some part of the chimney on the way down bruising my right side hip, gashing my right forearm and taking a whack on the right side of my head. Despite the helmet I got a knock on the head severe enough to result in a small egg on the top right side of my head.

The worse part was that my head hit the rock hard enough to pop out the right lens of my glasses. I am virtually blind without my them. Dinged up as I would have considered going back up and finishing it but was not going to get it done "by feel". I down climbed belayed from the #3 cam to the birch tree which I rapped off of to the belay. I did not relish the idea of seconding the pitch and the tough corner pitch above not being able to see and being a bit banged up and we decided to bail. Tom led up to the #3 and then down led back to the belay collecting the gear. Angled rapped over to an anchor on The Beast and then to the ground. Thanks to Tom for getting my gear and getting me off safely.

Morals of the story? Keep your head in the game; if you have any doubts about the consequences of a fall don't proceed without getting additional gear in; and probably most importantly, always wear the helmet. This is the first time the helmet has come into play in 8 years of leading. I don't want to think of the consequences had I not been wearing it.

Now Tom and I both have a reason to get back up there and get on Recompense again. Stay tuned.

damn bill! take care of yourself eh?

I hate that pitch. I think it's the hardest pitch on the whole thing, and that includes the last pitch. I just think that pitch is a major pain in the ass.

Glad that you're OK, though. How long of a recovery? Do you have spare glasses?


losbill


Aug 7, 2011, 7:39 PM
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Got the spares on. Regarding recovery I'm pretty much set to go. Going to pass up on the running in the morning however. Butt's a bit sore.


Gmburns2000


Aug 7, 2011, 7:46 PM
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Laugh


boymeetsrock


Aug 8, 2011, 7:14 AM
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Re: [losbill] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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Some great stories in here lately! Thanks all. Been locked in with my new twins (kids, not ropes) so I'm really enjoying the stoke you all are sharing.

I look forward to seeing some of you out there in the not so distant future.


gblauer
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Aug 8, 2011, 7:33 AM
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Yikes Bill...glad to hear that you are ok!


dagibbs


Aug 8, 2011, 7:56 AM
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Quite the fall! Glad to hear you're ok.

I'm blind like you -- I try to always bring spare glasses out climbing with me, just in case.


losbill


Aug 8, 2011, 8:01 AM
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Thanks Gail. Say hey to Manny for me it you are still out there.

Wyeth congrats on the twins. Seeing you aren't climbing that much how about mailing me up "our" .3 cam? I will put it to good use until until you are ready to take it out for a "walk" on a more frequent basis.

Bill


Gmburns2000


Aug 8, 2011, 8:43 AM
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Re: [losbill] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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losbill wrote:
Thanks Gail. Say hey to Manny for me it you are still out there.

Wyeth congrats on the twins. Seeing you aren't climbing that much how about mailing me up "our" .3 cam? I will put it to good use until until you are ready to take it out for a "walk" on a more frequent basis.

Bill

I see what you did there. If the mail doesnt work I might be willing to sell my services to pick it up and deliver it, testing it along the way to ensure safety.


boymeetsrock


Aug 8, 2011, 9:09 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
losbill wrote:
Thanks Gail. Say hey to Manny for me it you are still out there.

Wyeth congrats on the twins. Seeing you aren't climbing that much how about mailing me up "our" .3 cam? I will put it to good use until until you are ready to take it out for a "walk" on a more frequent basis.

Bill

I see what you did there. If the mail doesnt work I might be willing to sell my services to pick it up and deliver it, testing it along the way to ensure safety.


I think something could probably be arranged.

In fact, maybe I could get a day of leave and we could all climb.?. Think you all can make it down for another day in the Gunks this summer? Would love to climb with you two again and maybe meet some others in this group.


Future weekend warriors: Ryan and Austin (pic attached)


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Aug 8, 2011, 9:10 AM)
Attachments: Buddies - Web.JPG (119 KB)


Gmburns2000


Aug 8, 2011, 9:36 AM
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Great pic Wyeth, that's awesome. Congrats to you both.

I'm pretty much free to head down whenever, but I will be sans car for good starting tomorrow (tues).


boymeetsrock


Aug 8, 2011, 1:33 PM
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Well we'll have to figure something out. First off I'll see if the wife will let me out sometime soon. Wink


Gmburns2000


Aug 8, 2011, 1:39 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
Well we'll have to figure something out. First off I'll see if the wife will let me out sometime soon. Wink

It would be great, but let's not fret too much. Again, I'm without a car starting tomorrow, so I'm dependent on rides, but it would be good to get more climbing in.


blueeyedclimber


Aug 9, 2011, 5:21 AM
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Re: [losbill] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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Wow, Bill! Glad you are all right. Once again, I wish I had known you were there, we could have met up for a beer.

BTW, who gave my post 1 star? (read: WAH!) At least I didn't post nude climbing shots of myself. Unless that's what you people want. Sickos! Tongue


Josh


losbill


Aug 9, 2011, 5:54 AM
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Hey Josh, thanks. Almost walked up to the North End on Saturday afternoon but Recompense was calling. Ships in the night!

Reread my original post just now. Realized the following could be misinterpreted as I neglected to adequately protect the difficult section and just climbed through it.

In reply to:
Did have some issues getting in good gear in the steep first bit but the jams were so good it wasn't an issue

Just so it doesn't appear that I'm totally reckless, just somewhat reckless, let me provide an edit.

Did have some issues getting in good gear in the steep first bit but the jams were so good I was able to hang out and fiddle with the gear until I was comfortable with it before moving up so it wasn't an issue.


Gmburns2000


Aug 9, 2011, 7:50 AM
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losbill wrote:
Reread my original post just now. Realized the following could be misinterpreted as I neglected to adequately protect the difficult section and just climbed through it.

In reply to:
Did have some issues getting in good gear in the steep first bit but the jams were so good it wasn't an issue

Just so it doesn't appear that I'm totally reckless, just somewhat reckless, let me provide an edit.

Did have some issues getting in good gear in the steep first bit but the jams were so good I was able to hang out and fiddle with the gear until I was comfortable with it before moving up so it wasn't an issue.

Good thing you said that because I was seriously considering never climbing with you again. Tongue


gblauer
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Aug 9, 2011, 4:48 PM
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I love Squamish!

More later...


blueeyedclimber


Aug 10, 2011, 5:30 AM
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gblauer wrote:
I love Squamish!

More later...

IF it had better year round weather, I would move there tomorrow. Hurry up with that report. I miss Squamish!

Let me know if you want any recommendations.

Josh


darkgift06


Aug 10, 2011, 12:54 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] How I spent my long weekend, or an Epic in the Adirondacks [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
gblauer wrote:
I love Squamish!

More later...

IF it had better year round weather, I would move there tomorrow. Hurry up with that report. I miss Squamish!

Let me know if you want any recommendations.

Josh


You do know that Skaha, & Kelowna are both only 4 hours away from Squamish & have amazing weather..


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2011, 1:47 PM
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darkgift06 wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
gblauer wrote:
I love Squamish!

More later...

IF it had better year round weather, I would move there tomorrow. Hurry up with that report. I miss Squamish!

Let me know if you want any recommendations.

Josh


You do know that Skaha, & Kelowna are both only 4 hours away from Squamish & have amazing weather..

He's bluffing.


gblauer
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Aug 10, 2011, 1:56 PM
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What did I miss Greg? Last trip to the gunks for a few years??? What's up?


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2011, 2:29 PM
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Read it!

(moving to Brasil)


dagibbs


Aug 13, 2011, 8:57 PM
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So, the lake is actually called "Lac Sam", and I was out there again today, for more climbing. There were just two of us (K8 and myself) and we decided to go for a bottom-to-top climb, this time.

We hiked up to the base of the lower wall, and K8 led the first pitch, on rock we'd climb before -- the 5.6. I followed, and then headed out into the unknown. Mostly 3rd/4th class scrambling, until we come upon another band of rock that was totally obscured by the trees.

This band is only about 6-7m tall, but looks wide enough that going up is probably better than around. I lead off, get a couple pieces in low-down, but the top half ends up being completely unprotected.

At the top of this, more 3rd/4th class scrambling, including walking around another small (maybe 5m?) wall, but it can easily be circumvented (and is overhanging enough that I don't feel like trying to lead it), until we come to the base of the main band of upper rock. And, wow. That's a gorgeous looking piece of rock.

Wee ooh and ah about it for a bit, until I pick a line. Up a a fairly easy leftwards slanting slab with vegetated cracks (but little gear) towards a large right-facing wall that runs from about half-way up the cliff to the top. The climb gets steeper at this point -- but the gear gets better to. And the rock is just clean... hard clean rock, without dirt or moss or lichen... it is such a lovely change of experience from the lower faces. I top-out with a little whoop, setup an anchor and bring K8 up. We admire the view, walk around a bit, to get to the utter top of the ridge, then head back down.

After 3 rappels and a bunch of down-scrambling, we're down. A snack, pack up, canoe back, swim and dinner -- then home.

I'd say: 5.6 PG 25m, 3rd/4th class 20m, 5.3 X 7m, 3rd/4th class 50m, 5.5 PG 25m.


(This post was edited by dagibbs on Aug 13, 2011, 9:03 PM)


Dip


Aug 17, 2011, 8:27 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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So i had what i thought would be my last visit to the Gunks for this season scheduled for this past Monday and Tuesday, but since the weather didnt cooperate i may have to sneak in a day on my way to New Hampshire in October. For this trip, rather than endure rain and hope for windows of decent weather, we went south to Seneca.

Arrived at about midnight on Sunday night, pulled into Seneca Shadows and grabbed a few hours of fitul sleep before heading up to the fin early the next morning. This was only my second time at Seneca, the first being before i was leading on gear, so i dialed it back a few notches to get used to the climbing there. Hopped on Green Wall first, which i thought was soft for 5.7 by normal standards but a super fun lead none the less. It was completely devoid of other people when we topped out so my buddy decided he was getting his picture taken on the summit sans clothing. Got a pretty good shot which i promplty sent to him and delted upon returning home, as his naked ass lingering around my computer made the act of typing feel dirty.

After descending from the summit we did West Pole, which fortunately i got to lead. If Green Wall was soft for 5.7, i thought West Pole was bagged at 7+. i did score the onsight, barely, after my foot greased off the smear to enter ther roof and i found myself dangling by one arm off the jug. I downclimbed to a good stance, gregrouped, and pulled the roof without incident. Possibly one of my favorite climbs ever, super fun. I did however have my first seneca experience with loose rock on this one, nearly pulling a large block off the wall under the roof. That sketched me out a bit and was definitely in my the back of my mind for the rest of the trip.

When we finally came down from the summit the second time (i took a long time on West Pole) my buddy mentioned that he wanted to lead Candy Corner, a route recommended by one of our friends who frequented Seneca before he got married and stopped trad climbing. I followed him on it, and was once again impressed by the moves and position of the climb. The exposure sneaks up on you on that one. Fun stuff.

After Candy Corner it was getting late and we were pretty beat up so we called it a day and hit the front porch for some pizza and beer before driving back to the campground and promptly passing out around 10:00. Funny how a day on the wall, even doing "easier" routes can kick your ass.

Tuesday i woke kinda sore (i don't do well sleeping on the ground). We were going back up for day two, but weren't so sure we wanted to do the stairmaster a second day so we started off with Ecstasy. Well, the first pitch anyway, because when we got to the belay we got a little confused about which way to go, didn't so much feel like figuring it out, and rapped to the ground. Once down we decided we wanted to hop on something that didn't require a lot of thought, and maybe not a lot of effort either.

Back up the stairmaster we lumbered, eventually deciding on Gunsight to South Peak. Since we both had to be at work today we thought it'd be cool to hit the summit one more time then head home. I led bananas and my buddy led Debbit to gain the notch, then i was fortunate enough to draw the lead on the money pitch. That's one of those climbs i think you can throw the grade right out the window, it's rad, exposed, and fun. who cares what it goes at.

We lingered on the summit for a bit one last time, then did the three rappels to the base, grabbed our stuff and were back in Harrisburg by 9:00. Had a great time, but if i had to pick between the two i'd still take the gunks any day.


gblauer
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Aug 21, 2011, 4:09 PM
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Gunks=3/4 Rain

Been up here since Thursday. Went out on Thursday with Bett (recovering from broken hip, just getting back in to leading) and we were excited to climb. Bett lead Betty and we hear thunder and more thunder and more thunder. Meanwhile, I encouraged Bett to build a gear anchor (tree as back up) and she fixed my orange mastercam. NO matter what we did, we could NOT get that damn cam out of the horizontal. It didn't help that the thunder was getting louder/closer and then it started to rain. We rapped quickly, left the rope hanging so that we could go back up and clean that peice. Well, as luck would have it, the rain stopped quickly and up we went. No luck with the piece. We left if for someone more inventive than us. Off to Rock and Snow to replace the piece. I now have a shiny new orange powercam.

Friday I climbed with Seth (totally cool, fun, easy going Seth). He ran up Betty to try and clean the piece; no luck. We ran up The Blackout, Wonderland, Triangle, Never Never Land and Jean (almost...oops rain AGAIN). Had to rescue the gear under the Jean roof by climbing sixish and doing some creative anchor building. By the time we recovered the gear, it had rained and the rock was soaked. It was 5 so we called it a day.

Saturday was gorgeous. I had made up my mind that I was going to give myself a kick in the butt and lead some harder climbs. For some reason I wanted to warm up on black fly or the 7 next to it and when we walked in that area was miraculously empty. It was a very good omen. I started on "That nice Crack climb", 5.7) and then decided to lead the 9 next door ("THat nice 9"). Why that 9? A few reasons: 1) If I didn't make it, I could rap in and get my gear (easy walk up), 2) MItch can see me through the entire climb. 3) Well protected crux

So, up I went, I cleared the first crux handily and was really looking for the second crux. Wow, I was at the top and I never did find the second crux. I was grinning from ear to ear; the climb was easy peasy and I felt great. So great that I decided to lead Dirty Gerdie a thin face climb (NOT my forte) on the Gerdie block. It's 5.8+/5.9- protected with thin gear and old pins. Interestingly, I made it through all of the moves that I thought were the hard moves and as I was moving up to some slopers, with not so great feet, I actually skittered off and took a 12 footer. All air, soft catch and incredibly exhilarating. I climbed back up, rested and finished the climb. HOnestly, in all my TRs of that climb, I NEVER noticed the run out after the crux. I carefully picked my way up and was totally thrilled that I pushed myself to lead a thin face climb and that I took a good whip. Mitch is just getting back into leading and he lead "69", a nice 5.3 with a bit of exposed climbing. Unfortunately, he placed our Clog (his first piece of gear from years ago) and every trigger wire popped. We could not get that piece out of the rock. Bett and Patrick came over for pizza on the grill and a great fire (thanks Mitch), a super end to a really good day.

Today, Bett and I got up early to get out before the rain. I wanted her to lead P2 of "Jackie" and "Classic". We got to "Jackie" before anyone else and I started up the climb. I was halfway up when Bett informed me that I was not wearing my helmet. Yikes...a little un-nerved, I placed much more gear than I normally place and finshed easily (but not before dropping my entire set of big nuts). Bett did an awesome job leading her pitches, her gear was super.

Mitch joined us and I was starting up "Belly Roll" (wanted Bett or Mitch to lead P2) when the party ahead of us yelled down to say that there was a storm fast approaching. It immediately started to rain, I down climbed and back cleaned my gear. We ran around moving everyones gear out of the rain when we heard a major fall. A climber a few routes over was attempting to pull a 5.8 roof and he greased off. His two equalized pieces pulled and he flipped upside down and smacked his back/head. Fortunately there was a rope on another anchor (everyone was abandoning climbs because of the rain) and we managed to get him off the cliff. The rangers came, ambulance called etc. He was checked out by the EMTs and he declined an ambulance ride to the hospital. It appeared that he may have broken a rib or two. He had large abrasions on his back and he was already uncomfortable. We waited for the rain to abate and finally walked out before the next set of storms were supposed to hit. There is supposed to be severe weather here (major t-storms with golf ball sized hail) but, so far only some gentle rain.

So although it rained 3 out of 4 days, I am satisfied with the weekend... I will call it two steps forward!


(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 21, 2011, 4:18 PM)


sethg


Aug 21, 2011, 11:01 PM
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Holy moly Gail, sounds like you had an interesting weekend! I'm glad your lead fall worked out okay. Nice job on Nice 5.9, that first crux is a tricky stand-up move. I agree the second crux is much easier. Way to get after it, I think those are both courageous leads!

Gail is so generous in her post she makes it sound as if I led Never Never Land and got rained off of Jean when in reality I led up Triangle to set up a tr on NNL and even with a toprope couldn't do the frickin' crux. And I bailed off of Jean because I am a chicken. The rain didn't start until I headed up Sixish to try to get my gear back! Now that I've done the moves I might go back and try it again...

Right now I'm sitting in a cafe in Leon, Spain, waiting for the rest of my family to wake up. Looking forward to the day of climbing I'm going to do next week in the Picos de Europa.

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