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guangzhou


May 29, 2009, 9:43 PM
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donald949 wrote:
Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

Sounds like a nice day of fun climb. I only climbed that area once while driving by to visit my mother. Spendid rock, nice location, but it gets hot.

Nice write up, glad your kids are learning to play outdoors too.

Cheers
Eman


Gmburns2000


May 31, 2009, 5:54 PM
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donald949 wrote:
Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

effn rent-a-cops! HA!


Gmburns2000


Jun 1, 2009, 8:36 AM
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Spent a day at Farley recently. Trying something a bit different here. Hopefully this is at least a step in the right direction toward loosening it up.


donald949


Jun 1, 2009, 9:06 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
donald949 wrote:
Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

effn rent-a-cops! HA!

Yea, really, rent a cops.

Re kids. Yea, the boys like it. But they have fun just running around playing in the dirt. So usually they take one burn on the rope and go back to doing their thing.
But the season is winding down out there. It will be starting to get too hot soon.


Gmburns2000


Jun 1, 2009, 9:38 AM
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Gotta go someplace cooler. It's good that your kids have the patience for climbing, and that you have partenrs who are patient with your kids. I can see where that might be tought to come by.


dingus


Jun 1, 2009, 9:56 AM
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Lots of storm build up in the Sierra this past weekend.

We made camp Sat night in a steady rain. It was still sprinkling when we set the alarms - 3 am.

And it was cloudy and damp still at 3 am. Still we went through the motions.

We were hiking before sunrise, though we wouldn't have been able to see it anyway.

"It'll get better buddy, you'll see! " I promised with more cheer than I felt.

So at 9 am we were very surprised to be standing at the base of our objective, 800 feet of dry rock overhead and a window of blus sky split by our summit.

"Take the packs?" Angus asked. Turning around, looking 'out' it was hard to ignore the wall of gray clouds AT NINE A.M. - just over there.

"OK by me."

So we packed up all our shit and rigged our packs for climbing. Angus hefted his -

"Damn this is heavy. How heavy is yours?" He hefted mine. "Bout the same. Sure you want to take packs?"

I roll my eyes inwardly, look again at the weather and say,

"Can take it or leave it, I don't care. Let's leave em!"

So we cast caution into the wind. I took a quart of water, a goretexy jacket and some nuts. Angus took aabout the same.

We were counting on getting up and off this thing before weather hit us. We both know the route well.

So enroute we passed some other parties. Apparently these blokes had camped somewhere the evening before.

They were all equipped as we were going to be - packs and shit.

Well we did some simul climbing and what have you and managed to get to the top pretty quickly - about 2 hours I reckon. Not bad some a couple of old broken weekend worriers.

Angus overheard at a belay (from one of the other parties):

"Those guys (us) are going pretty light!"

"Day like today, you need to be prepared for ANYTHING!"

I guess he did not approve of our style.

But 3 hours after setting foot to rock, we were back at our packs, staring up at the peak as the last party summited.

Back at the cars by 3 PM. Looking back up the peak was enveloped in clouds.

Hope those well-prepared climbers got off OK!

"A rope and a rack and the shirts on our back." Laughed Angus.

Raced with the devil we did. A fine time was had by all.

DMT


Gmburns2000


Jun 1, 2009, 10:12 AM
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I've made the mistake of bringing too much before. I really wish we had gone light.

And I love the Angus-Dingus connection.


Partner cracklover


Jun 1, 2009, 12:35 PM
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Dingus, nice writing as always, and a perfect example (for whomever may care) that the right word or phrase in the right place is 1000 times better than noodling on for five pages about details that no-one but the author could give a shit about. Of course, that's why you're a helluva good writer, and I'm just a hack.

GO


caughtinside


Jun 1, 2009, 12:52 PM
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well I'm on the 10th month or so of my weekend warrior gig, but hadn't climbed a lick in 4 months.

check out the holcomb pinnacles above big bear. Fire off 4 5.10 sport routes like they were nothing. sweet! the power is still there. routes 5 and 6, not so much. I am absolutely wanking out there! I'm creeping along, from 5.5 jug to 5.5 jug, and am just opening up. You know that laugh where you also sound like you're crying? the tears of mirth that might also be of frustration? I was just rolling backwards off those jugs like an upended beetle, totally powerless. great stuff. FOrtunately the clouds rolled in and flipped on the power switch so I had a good excuse to hang it up.

next day I singlehandedly destroyed a rope trying to TR a very un Josh like Bebop Tango. 20 feet to forearm explosion. Just hucking mo after mo, super desperate before I just got stopped and the fuzz started raining down from above. who needs a sheath anyway? I'll leave those to the sailors.


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2009, 8:24 AM
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Yup, I was in that same place recently. Got really pumped on a couple of routes right at my limit the Sat and Sun of Memorial Day weekend and then crashed on Monday. My endurance isn't anywhere I want it to be at the moment.

Here is the write-up from Memorial Day weekend. I did knock off two goals, however, that weekend, so it was a good one overall.


skibum14


Jun 5, 2009, 4:31 PM
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Great TR Gmburns. About halfway through, I noticed how well written it was, so it was cool to see that you want to be a writer. Dostoevsky is a favorite of mine, too.


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2009, 4:40 PM
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skibum14 wrote:
Great TR Gmburns. About halfway through, I noticed how well written it was, so it was cool to see that you want to be a writer. Dostoevsky is a favorite of mine, too.

thanks man. feel free to post up on this thread, too. i don't want this thread to be all mine.


skibum14


Jun 5, 2009, 4:50 PM
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Well, I'm injured now. (Which probably explains why I'm so psyched to be reading nicely written trip reports.) But I'll be sure to post when I start climbing again in a month or so.

But post up people. It doesn't have to be super exciting for an injured climber trying to get his fix.


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2009, 5:09 PM
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skibum14 wrote:
Well, I'm injured now. (Which probably explains why I'm so psyched to be reading nicely written trip reports.) But I'll be sure to post when I start climbing again in a month or so.

But post up people. It doesn't have to be super exciting for an injured climber trying to get his fix.

That sucks, dude. I hope you get well soon.

I look forward to reading your first day back!


skibum14


Jun 5, 2009, 6:05 PM
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Thanks, man. If you ever need a partner for the Gunks, I'm back from summer break in late August. I have no permanent partners here yet, so if your regular partners bail and you need someone, let me know.


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2009, 6:10 PM
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skibum14 wrote:
Thanks, man. If you ever need a partner for the Gunks, I'm back from summer break in late August. I have no permanent partners here yet, so if your regular partners bail and you need someone, let me know.

I'll keep you in mind. The same goes for if you're up this way, too.


guangzhou


Jun 5, 2009, 6:34 PM
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Nice to hear someone else doesn't want the cubicle life. When you said you want to minimize your possessions, you hit the nail on the head. To many people own to much stuff to enjoy life to it's fullest.

One nice thing about relocating every few years, you sort your stuff and get rid of things that you kept "just in case."

Eman


Gmburns2000


Jun 5, 2009, 6:41 PM
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guangzhou wrote:
Nice to hear someone else doesn't want the cubicle life. When you said you want to minimize your possessions, you hit the nail on the head. To many people own to much stuff to enjoy life to it's fullest.

One nice thing about relocating every few years, you sort your stuff and get rid of things that you kept "just in case."

Eman

Yeah, this will be my first real purge. When I went off to grad school in Scotland a decade ago it wasn't the same. I hadn't started life yet. But now I've started, and it's time to redirect. I plan on keeping only the stuff that is important (family stuff, art, personal items of value) and things that would be dumb to get rid of (computer monitor, books, etc). I have a place to store the stuff (I think). The rest will either be sold or donated. It'll be a fresh start.

BTW - my blog on climbing.com starts up this month. I just have to send my first post, bio, and some pics to Luke and he'll get working on it at some point in the next couple of weeks. My style on climbing.com will be different than my style on my personal blog. I kind of knew I needed to shake things up a bit, but your comment above helped to push me over the edge. Thanks for that. I'll let you know when the first post is up.


gblauer
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Jun 6, 2009, 8:57 PM
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Our Mistake

Today we tried a new climb at the gunks; Bloody Mary (upgraded to 5.7 in the new Dick). I took P1, a super nice crack, followed by a little traverse and then straight on up to a tree with rings and slings. My husband had the honor of P2, a 5.6 with two roofs, right on top of each other. P2 starts off with a 30 foot traverse to the left, then straight up under the first roof. Pull roof 1 and then traverse right to pull roof 2. Mitch did an amazing job leading the 2nd pitch and I really enjoy seconding it. So far so good. Great climb, loved by all. In fact, we wonder why it's not a 3 star classic.

Anyways, we rap off instead of doing P3 and walk over to another climb. I am racking up and I notice that we are missing 4 pieces of gear (cams). Turns out, Mitch never cleaned the anchor. Since it was a light turnout here today, I was certain the gear was still up there. So up Bloody Mary again, this time reversing the pitches; Mitch on P1 and me on P2.

Mitch flew up P1 (worried that we were going to have to rap in the dark) and I took the sharp end on P2). I have never had so much fun in my life. leading that pitch was so much more fun than following. I don't care what Dick says, it's a 3 star in my book. So Mitch's mistake turned out to be a great thing; I loved leading this climb.

So that's our weekend warrior report. We are up at the gunks every weekend, so I am sure there will be more to follow.


Gmburns2000


Jun 7, 2009, 4:18 AM
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gblauer wrote:
Our Mistake

Today we tried a new climb at the gunks; Bloody Mary (upgraded to 5.7 in the new Dick). I took P1, a super nice crack, followed by a little traverse and then straight on up to a tree with rings and slings. My husband had the honor of P2, a 5.6 with two roofs, right on top of each other. P2 starts off with a 30 foot traverse to the left, then straight up under the first roof. Pull roof 1 and then traverse right to pull roof 2. Mitch did an amazing job leading the 2nd pitch and I really enjoy seconding it. So far so good. Great climb, loved by all. In fact, we wonder why it's not a 3 star classic.

Anyways, we rap off instead of doing P3 and walk over to another climb. I am racking up and I notice that we are missing 4 pieces of gear (cams). Turns out, Mitch never cleaned the anchor. Since it was a light turnout here today, I was certain the gear was still up there. So up Bloody Mary again, this time reversing the pitches; Mitch on P1 and me on P2.

Mitch flew up P1 (worried that we were going to have to rap in the dark) and I took the sharp end on P2). I have never had so much fun in my life. leading that pitch was so much more fun than following. I don't care what Dick says, it's a 3 star in my book. So Mitch's mistake turned out to be a great thing; I loved leading this climb.

So that's our weekend warrior report. We are up at the gunks every weekend, so I am sure there will be more to follow.

How tall are you? Tongue


gblauer
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Jun 7, 2009, 5:26 AM
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I am shrinking from my tallest height of 5' 3", why?

Mitch is 6' 2" and he also liked P2.


granite_grrl


Jun 7, 2009, 7:10 AM
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Gail, that reminds me of the time Nathan and I went up to take photos of me on CCK. Did the climb, got back to the ground.....found out he didn't take a single photo. Shocked

We managed to run back up, passing at least one other party to the side, and did the climb again in record time. Plus side was after already doing the crux pitches once that day I was uber relaxed and Nathan was able to give a worse belay and take better photos.

A few weekends ago I started up Morning After, but after getting a little too wigged out at the lack of gear I bailed over to Bloody Mary. Only did the first pitch though. It was nice.

I'm looking at probobly leaving Tuesday morning right now. I have a few errands to do in Buffalo, but I'll be getting down to the Gunks in the late afternoon. I hope to catch up with you down there, I'll send you a PM when I've got everything nailed down.


Gmburns2000


Jun 7, 2009, 4:36 PM
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gblauer wrote:
I am shrinking from my tallest height of 5' 3", why?

Mitch is 6' 2" and he also liked P2.

Well, if you don't use the tree then it's definitely a short person's route. Of course, Mitch might clearly be a better climber than me, too. Tongue


guangzhou


Jun 7, 2009, 6:10 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
guangzhou wrote:
Nice to hear someone else doesn't want the cubicle life. When you said you want to minimize your possessions, you hit the nail on the head. To many people own to much stuff to enjoy life to it's fullest.

One nice thing about relocating every few years, you sort your stuff and get rid of things that you kept "just in case."

Eman

Yeah, this will be my first real purge. When I went off to grad school in Scotland a decade ago it wasn't the same. I hadn't started life yet. But now I've started, and it's time to redirect. I plan on keeping only the stuff that is important (family stuff, art, personal items of value) and things that would be dumb to get rid of (computer monitor, books, etc). I have a place to store the stuff (I think). The rest will either be sold or donated. It'll be a fresh start.

BTW - my blog on climbing.com starts up this month. I just have to send my first post, bio, and some pics to Luke and he'll get working on it at some point in the next couple of weeks. My style on climbing.com will be different than my style on my personal blog. I kind of knew I needed to shake things up a bit, but your comment above helped to push me over the edge. Thanks for that. I'll let you know when the first post is up.

Good luck with the new blog. Hope it does what ever you want it too. Mine, I plan on focusing on South East Asia. We'll see how it goes.


Gmburns2000


Jun 7, 2009, 6:26 PM
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Re: [guangzhou] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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guangzhou wrote:

Good luck with the new blog. Hope it does what ever you want it too. Mine, I plan on focusing on South East Asia. We'll see how it goes.

Well, you seem to have a lock on that. good luck with it. I enjoyed the first post. look forward to reading more.

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