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Gmburns2000


Aug 14, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Re: [epoch] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
gmggg wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
Does this look like winter... or Mt washington to you?

I was just pointing out that that outfitting style is Tres Chic for the urban climbing crowd in the NE. After all you have to make use of that junk at some point so as not to feel bad about buying it.

Just to show a little empathy I will admit I always get laughed at out here for bringing way too much water. I got used to having NO access to water in California and it doesn't bother me all that much to carry a couple gallons for a weekend. That might put me at +20lbs including climbing gear occasionally. I wouldn't think that would be a problem on the WG though...

I am a water-whore from out west, too. I still find myself bringing between 3 - 4 liters of water for a day of climbing. Then again, the air is thick here, and the heat has this wetness to it that I have yet grown accustomed to. I sweat like crazy regardless of the season.




Too much crap in the pack for an alpine ascent. Though, I agree that Canon is the most alpine-like setting in the North East. It is not, however, alpine in my opinion. I carry a super small pack when doing summer alpine stuff. Usually 3ltrs of water, a rain jacket, first aid kit, lunch, and maybe one of my tent groundcloths for emergency shelter. Total weight depends on the water as everything else is super light.

Light is right and speed in an alpine situation, or on an inherently dangerous precipice can make/break a sucessful ascent.

That's what I've brought the past two times up Cannon (definitely learned my lesson), except no tent supplies.


gmggg


Aug 14, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Re: [epoch] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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epoch wrote:
gmggg wrote:
jakedatc wrote:
Does this look like winter... or Mt washington to you?

I was just pointing out that that outfitting style is Tres Chic for the urban climbing crowd in the NE. After all you have to make use of that junk at some point so as not to feel bad about buying it.

Just to show a little empathy I will admit I always get laughed at out here for bringing way too much water. I got used to having NO access to water in California and it doesn't bother me all that much to carry a couple gallons for a weekend. That might put me at +20lbs including climbing gear occasionally. I wouldn't think that would be a problem on the WG though...

I am a water-whore from out west, too. I still find myself bringing between 3 - 4 liters of water for a day of climbing. Then again, the air is thick here, and the heat has this wetness to it that I have yet grown accustomed to. I sweat like crazy regardless of the season.




Too much crap in the pack for an alpine ascent. Though, I agree that Canon is the most alpine-like setting in the North East. It is not, however, alpine in my opinion. I carry a super small pack when doing summer alpine stuff. Usually 3ltrs of water, a rain jacket, first aid kit, lunch, and maybe one of my tent groundcloths for emergency shelter. Total weight depends on the water as everything else is super light.

Light is right and speed in an alpine situation, or on an inherently dangerous precipice can make/break a sucessful ascent.

Hear Hear! I think dead winter is about the only time I can be outside without drowning.

Canon is certainly alpine in crumble and weather, but it is still less than a mile from where you parked :)


marc801


Aug 14, 2009, 12:40 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
It wasn't the 5.8 grade that was a problem. I'm pretty solid on 5.8 in general. Some 5.8 trad climbs push me while others come quite easily. It's vertical crack in particular that is difficult for me.

But just because I really don't like vertical crack that doesn't mean I'm going shy away from it. I mean, you have to keep trying to stuff get better at it. I'll admit that I'm not very good at getting better at crack, but it is what it is. I told my partner that day that I didn't think I could lead Reppy's, so she did. I really don't understand what is so irresponsible about that. I've never in my life heard anything that said I had to be able to lead in order to second.

My partner led Reppy's and she did fine. I fell all over the place as the second. I really don't see why falling on a specific type of feature is grounds for immediate descent. Other than a few cracks here and there the rest of the way, it's pretty much face and slab after Reppy's (depending on how you do the Finger of Faith). The roof has a jam crack, too, but I actually got past that part and had both feet up over the roof. I only fell on the Triangle Roof because my foot slipped. I landed awkwardly and hurt my ankle. if I hadn't hurt my ankle then I wouldn't have retreated. I wouldn't have even thought about retreating, in fact.

There was nothing to suggest that we should have turned back. There was no reason to think there was an imminent injury waiting for us above. It's an absurd assumption to say that because the first pitch was hard for me we should have turned around. I actually pulled the roof on P3 and had a solid hand jam that I felt good moving from. MY FOOT SLIPPED! That's it! If I hadn't tweaked my ankle then I would have gone back up and made sure not to let my foot slip.

This is the last I'm going to comment on this particular subject. If you think I never should have been on Moby in the first place then fine, we'll be shooting bullets past each other. Weather permitting, I fully plan on going back up to Moby again before the year is out.
That's all fine and it may indeed be that simple. But you wrote it up on your blog as a major epic. I've seen less melodramatic writing about entire Himalayan ascents than what you crammed into describing a 160' 5.8 hand crack. If you're gonna go off the deep end of hyperbole in your writing, then you have to expect people are going to react to that rather than the "real" story, especially if you decide to obscure the latter.


Gmburns2000


Aug 14, 2009, 12:42 PM
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Re: [marc801] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
It wasn't the 5.8 grade that was a problem. I'm pretty solid on 5.8 in general. Some 5.8 trad climbs push me while others come quite easily. It's vertical crack in particular that is difficult for me.

But just because I really don't like vertical crack that doesn't mean I'm going shy away from it. I mean, you have to keep trying to stuff get better at it. I'll admit that I'm not very good at getting better at crack, but it is what it is. I told my partner that day that I didn't think I could lead Reppy's, so she did. I really don't understand what is so irresponsible about that. I've never in my life heard anything that said I had to be able to lead in order to second.

My partner led Reppy's and she did fine. I fell all over the place as the second. I really don't see why falling on a specific type of feature is grounds for immediate descent. Other than a few cracks here and there the rest of the way, it's pretty much face and slab after Reppy's (depending on how you do the Finger of Faith). The roof has a jam crack, too, but I actually got past that part and had both feet up over the roof. I only fell on the Triangle Roof because my foot slipped. I landed awkwardly and hurt my ankle. if I hadn't hurt my ankle then I wouldn't have retreated. I wouldn't have even thought about retreating, in fact.

There was nothing to suggest that we should have turned back. There was no reason to think there was an imminent injury waiting for us above. It's an absurd assumption to say that because the first pitch was hard for me we should have turned around. I actually pulled the roof on P3 and had a solid hand jam that I felt good moving from. MY FOOT SLIPPED! That's it! If I hadn't tweaked my ankle then I would have gone back up and made sure not to let my foot slip.

This is the last I'm going to comment on this particular subject. If you think I never should have been on Moby in the first place then fine, we'll be shooting bullets past each other. Weather permitting, I fully plan on going back up to Moby again before the year is out.
That's all fine and it may indeed be that simple. But you wrote it up on your blog as a major epic. I've seen less melodramatic writing about entire Himalayan ascents than what you crammed into describing a 160' 5.8 hand crack. If you're gonna go off the deep end of hyperbole in your writing, then you have to expect people are going to react to that rather than the "real" story, especially if you decide to obscure the latter.

That's fair criticism. Thanks.


cfnubbler


Aug 14, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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How do you know a guide at a party?










He'll tell you.


boymeetsrock


Aug 14, 2009, 12:55 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
marc801 wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
It wasn't the 5.8 grade that was a problem. I'm pretty solid on 5.8 in general. Some 5.8 trad climbs push me while others come quite easily. It's vertical crack in particular that is difficult for me.

But just because I really don't like vertical crack that doesn't mean I'm going shy away from it. I mean, you have to keep trying to stuff get better at it. I'll admit that I'm not very good at getting better at crack, but it is what it is. I told my partner that day that I didn't think I could lead Reppy's, so she did. I really don't understand what is so irresponsible about that. I've never in my life heard anything that said I had to be able to lead in order to second.

My partner led Reppy's and she did fine. I fell all over the place as the second. I really don't see why falling on a specific type of feature is grounds for immediate descent. Other than a few cracks here and there the rest of the way, it's pretty much face and slab after Reppy's (depending on how you do the Finger of Faith). The roof has a jam crack, too, but I actually got past that part and had both feet up over the roof. I only fell on the Triangle Roof because my foot slipped. I landed awkwardly and hurt my ankle. if I hadn't hurt my ankle then I wouldn't have retreated. I wouldn't have even thought about retreating, in fact.

There was nothing to suggest that we should have turned back. There was no reason to think there was an imminent injury waiting for us above. It's an absurd assumption to say that because the first pitch was hard for me we should have turned around. I actually pulled the roof on P3 and had a solid hand jam that I felt good moving from. MY FOOT SLIPPED! That's it! If I hadn't tweaked my ankle then I would have gone back up and made sure not to let my foot slip.

This is the last I'm going to comment on this particular subject. If you think I never should have been on Moby in the first place then fine, we'll be shooting bullets past each other. Weather permitting, I fully plan on going back up to Moby again before the year is out.
That's all fine and it may indeed be that simple. But you wrote it up on your blog as a major epic. I've seen less melodramatic writing about entire Himalayan ascents than what you crammed into describing a 160' 5.8 hand crack. If you're gonna go off the deep end of hyperbole in your writing, then you have to expect people are going to react to that rather than the "real" story, especially if you decide to obscure the latter.

That's fair criticism. Thanks.


Sorry to but in here... But you should teach Jeremiah how to say that ^^^. And mean it.


Partner epoch
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Aug 14, 2009, 12:56 PM
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Re: [cfnubbler] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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cfnubbler wrote:
How do you know a guide at a party?










He'll tell you.

heh


saxfiend


Aug 14, 2009, 1:39 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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As if this blog wasn't already pathetic enough, now he's deleted all the negative comments posted in response (I saw them before they were deleted so I know they were negative).

Much loss of face.

JL


Gmburns2000


Aug 14, 2009, 1:45 PM
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saxfiend wrote:
As if this blog wasn't already pathetic enough, now he's deleted all the negative comments posted in response (I saw them before they were deleted so I know they were negative).

Much loss of face.

JL

I deleted the ones that were anonymous (yes, the Messner one was also anonymous). If you've got something to say then put your name on it. I've not been a coward standing up here replying to folks, and everyone knows my name. I expect folks who comment to do the same.

For clarity, they were negative as he says. That is irrelevant. I've kept negative comments on the blog before.


edge


Aug 14, 2009, 1:50 PM
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Re: [saxfiend] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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Bottom line:

If you go about your business without the self-important blog bugling, then really no one would care one way or another. You will still be unsafe and unqualified, but at least you can hide from the greater knowledgeable climbing community.

If, however, every day out is an excuse to epic and blow hangnails into a Joe Brown-worthy epic, then perhaps someone needs to re-read "Goodnight Moon," which tells an entertaining tale without endangering anyone's life.

Although I bet that bunny would make an awesome fricassee if he cratered on a roadside 5.7. No way I would cart him off Cannon for a free stew.


saxfiend


Aug 14, 2009, 1:53 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
I deleted the ones that were anonymous
Weak. Really weak.

Oh, and welcome to the internet.

JL


kriso9tails


Aug 14, 2009, 2:08 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
saxfiend wrote:
As if this blog wasn't already pathetic enough, now he's deleted all the negative comments posted in response (I saw them before they were deleted so I know they were negative).

Much loss of face.

JL

I deleted the ones that were anonymous (yes, the Messner one was also anonymous). If you've got something to say then put your name on it. I've not been a coward standing up here replying to folks, and everyone knows my name. I expect folks who comment to do the same.

For clarity, they were negative as he says. That is irrelevant. I've kept negative comments on the blog before.

You can't disable anonymous posting in any way? Would you prefer that I use a pseudonym instead of 'anonymous'?


Gmburns2000


Aug 14, 2009, 2:53 PM
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kriso9tails wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
saxfiend wrote:
As if this blog wasn't already pathetic enough, now he's deleted all the negative comments posted in response (I saw them before they were deleted so I know they were negative).

Much loss of face.

JL

I deleted the ones that were anonymous (yes, the Messner one was also anonymous). If you've got something to say then put your name on it. I've not been a coward standing up here replying to folks, and everyone knows my name. I expect folks who comment to do the same.

For clarity, they were negative as he says. That is irrelevant. I've kept negative comments on the blog before.

You can't disable anonymous posting in any way? Would you prefer that I use a pseudonym instead of 'anonymous'?

no, your real name, or something close enough that it identifies you.


wanderlustmd


Aug 14, 2009, 2:56 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
wanderlustmd wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
I am a certified TRSM instructor. I am a lead instructor at an outdoor climbing camp. Yesterday it rained, so we were forced inside. We played some sharks and minnows, did an obstacle course, and played a rope swing game called Peanut Butter and Jelly. I happen to kick ass at this game but my team lost for only like the second or third time all summer. It was rough!

Maybe I should start a blog to let people know how hard the "guiding" life is.

JoshCool

I'm doing an elementary ed program right now. Any lesson planning advice and/or variations on sharks and minnows would be greatly appreciated. I need to keep the little squirts in line come Sept.

I'm not paying $12/hour or anything, though.

Is this at a gym? Afterschool? PE program? etc.

One of my favorite games is the PB & J game. Basically you have two teams and you have to swing from one gym mat to the other. Each round, you switch directions and moves the mats further apart. The further apart they get, the more teamwork it takes to get your team across.

As far as sharks and minnows, instead of saying "fishy fishy, cross my ocean", you could say "climber climber climb my mountain" and the "IT" could be a Yeti or something.

Obstacle course are always fun. We also do the climber olympics and have different events. Just be creative and make stuff up.

Good luck!

Josh
No, it's a K-8 Gen. Ed. certification program. 9 months. I'll be in a regular second grade classroom, but am supposed to contribute to each part of their day in some way over the course of the semester. So, teach them a game in gym class, do an art activity in Art, etc.

Thanks for the info!

Back to your regularly scheduled thread.


socalclimber


Aug 14, 2009, 4:36 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
This is a new series on the blog. The hope is to give light to the lives of guides and not just focus on the climbing.

The focus of this series is less about the "how to" of climbing / guiding and more about the personal side instead.

This first post, An Unpleasant Start, is a new series on the ups and downs of being a guide: from networking trips gone wrong, to personal sacrifices (money, relationships, travel, climbing for work's sake vs. having fun), and how a hired trip can start off bad and end up good. It's about being young and learning.

There is absolutely nothing in this tripe that even remotely resembles the "life of a guide" other than some bullshit pity party on behalf the person who wrote it.

In reply to:
BTW - if there are any guides out there who would like to contribute, please let me know. We're looking for different perspectives.

You've gotta be fucking kidding me....


gmggg


Aug 14, 2009, 6:54 PM
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socalclimber wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
This is a new series on the blog. The hope is to give light to the lives of guides and not just focus on the climbing.

The focus of this series is less about the "how to" of climbing / guiding and more about the personal side instead.

This first post, An Unpleasant Start, is a new series on the ups and downs of being a guide: from networking trips gone wrong, to personal sacrifices (money, relationships, travel, climbing for work's sake vs. having fun), and how a hired trip can start off bad and end up good. It's about being young and learning.

There is absolutely nothing in this tripe that even remotely resembles the "life of a guide" other than some bullshit pity party on behalf the person who wrote it.

In reply to:
BTW - if there are any guides out there who would like to contribute, please let me know. We're looking for different perspectives.

You've gotta be fucking kidding me....

I hope you read this thread instead of the blog, it is much more entertaining, and in some ways more relevant to the topic of the blog...


socalclimber


Aug 14, 2009, 7:07 PM
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Oh yeah, I've read both. The blog is too pathetic to read in it's entirety.


Partner epoch
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Aug 14, 2009, 7:07 PM
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I am still not going to read your blog.


knieveltech


Aug 14, 2009, 7:13 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
If you've got something to say then put your name on it.

If that's the way you feel that's perfectly acceptable (and honestly it doesn't make much sense to allow anon comments anyway, you're basically begging for spam and other bullshit), however you need to reconfigure your site to disable anon commenting immediately. Otherwise you can't (with any kind of credibility) say you're deleting unsigned comments and censorship has nothing to do with it.

While you're in the midst of this massive shit throwing contest something you might want to consider: there are several pro bloggers that make rent off "you're a fucking gumby" style hatemail. A large reader base of folks who absolutely hate your fucking guts can generate as much (or more) revenue for a blog than normal readers. It's because the ones that hate you will keep coming back to see what kind of response their flame got from the rest of the echo chamber. They'll also revisit your post and re-read it several times looking for new things to nitpick. That's ad revenue right there.


socalclimber


Aug 14, 2009, 8:02 PM
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knieveltech wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
If you've got something to say then put your name on it.

If that's the way you feel that's perfectly acceptable (and honestly it doesn't make much sense to allow anon comments anyway, you're basically begging for spam and other bullshit), however you need to reconfigure your site to disable anon commenting immediately. Otherwise you can't (with any kind of credibility) say you're deleting unsigned comments and censorship has nothing to do with it.

While you're in the midst of this massive shit throwing contest something you might want to consider: there are several pro bloggers that make rent off "you're a fucking gumby" style hatemail. A large reader base of folks who absolutely hate your fucking guts can generate as much (or more) revenue for a blog than normal readers. It's because the ones that hate you will keep coming back to see what kind of response their flame got from the rest of the echo chamber. They'll also revisit your post and re-read it several times looking for new things to nitpick. That's ad revenue right there.

This is brilliant!


Bag11s


Aug 14, 2009, 8:49 PM
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Jeremiah-

This shit storm regarding your blog entry swirls for a succession of what I take to be unintentional transgressions. Not least, you let the Burnsmeister post the link here, subjecting you to the full barracuda school, fresh off their taste for blood recently stimulated by ‘The Brotherhood of the Rope” which was consumed with much gusto. Then there’s the essay’s pervasive complaining tone, which to me looks like it boils down to frustration over not getting enough climbing in this year. In addition, there’s the wearing of your heart on your sleeve, which many find either unseemly or else the perfect opportunity to prepare the vat of boiling oil for the express satisfaction of dumping it on you. Then there’s the criticism over your abilities and qualifications for guiding, all of which it seemed you yourself inserted as a subtext between the lines of your piece, whether knowingly or not who can say.

Even a quick survey of your profile ascent log makes it clear that you absolutely love to climb. You’ve gained progressive experience in each year you’ve recorded. You climbed many routes per year 2006 through 2008. It looks like you have always moved forward, doing new routes with a lot of variety, and climbing a bit harder all along. It looks like you could work on a lot harder stuff since your redpoint tally is so weak versus onsight. I’d say that letting the guiding thing go would be a freeing move. Continue to concentrate on your climbing. Get on some hard shit and drive yourself mental with that. There is plenty of time left to more than salvage this year and have a blast.


Gmburns2000


Aug 15, 2009, 5:41 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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knieveltech wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
If you've got something to say then put your name on it.

If that's the way you feel that's perfectly acceptable (and honestly it doesn't make much sense to allow anon comments anyway, you're basically begging for spam and other bullshit), however you need to reconfigure your site to disable anon commenting immediately. Otherwise you can't (with any kind of credibility) say you're deleting unsigned comments and censorship has nothing to do with it.

Thanks for that reminder. I totally forgot about that. You're right, turning that option off is better than deleting them.

In reply to:
While you're in the midst of this massive shit throwing contest something you might want to consider: there are several pro bloggers that make rent off "you're a fucking gumby" style hatemail. A large reader base of folks who absolutely hate your fucking guts can generate as much (or more) revenue for a blog than normal readers. It's because the ones that hate you will keep coming back to see what kind of response their flame got from the rest of the echo chamber. They'll also revisit your post and re-read it several times looking for new things to nitpick. That's ad revenue right there.

Not a bad idea, but I'm not a hater in real life (as you can probably see from my responses here). I wouldn't be good at that sort of thing.

Besides, even though your theory is absolutely correct (Jeremiah's last two posts have WAY outpaced any other post in terms of hits), my current balance for google ad clicks is still only $2.80. Laugh


Partner happiegrrrl


Aug 15, 2009, 6:51 AM
Post #123 of 193 (1150 views)
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
Posts: 4612

Re: [Gmburns2000] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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woot! I'm waaaay ahead of you, GM. My adsense is $21.35! Mostly due to hits from Saudi Arabia when guys came across this image on PhotoBucket...


It's a sad, sad, thing when a guy's got to rely on THAT for a....a.... well, you know....fix. (Seriously, at least a few hits every week from people in MEast who clicked on that illustration, and 99%+ clicks to that illustration are from the MEast. Thank you porno-banning govnt! You're making me rich!) And you all think rc.com is stringent with their nudity image allowances....


Gmburns2000


Aug 15, 2009, 7:42 AM
Post #124 of 193 (1134 views)
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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Re: [happiegrrrl] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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Laugh

I admit that during a recent trip to Aden I clicked on it just to see what I could get away with.


ukkonen


Aug 15, 2009, 11:06 AM
Post #125 of 193 (1082 views)
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Registered: Jul 21, 2009
Posts: 51

Re: [happiegrrrl] A Guide's Life [In reply to]
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I am glad someone finally brought this thread towards the dirty sex talk it so deserves.

To be honest I was willing to give 'burns a pass on the last thread.

But now I only have one question: why are you still here 'burns?

You all were correct. Run this guy off with our collective internet pitchfork.

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