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Anyone else lift weights here?
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Grizvok


May 19, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Re: [flesh] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
I believe weight lifting will provide zero results. It adds unnecessary weight. If your goal is to climb harder not to look better, just do high rep low weight antagonistic workouts, shoulders, pushups, reverse wrist curls, etc.

If you want to train your core, why not just do it climbing, since you want better core climbing muscles. Try bouldering on an overhang with a weight vest on, you will be stronger from fingers to toes. Or doing one arm lockoffs with both or one foot on in different body positions. Also you could boulder with tennis shoes on and purposely keep your feet on. IMO, overhanging bouldering with a weight vest on yields the best results for core.

My brother is 6 1 190 7% fat, lots of muscle, lifts weight 5 days a week for 5 years now. It's just to much weight. His fingers hurt, his skin hurts, and his endurance is horrible.

Eh. My buddy is 6'2 195 11% bf boulders v8 and leads 5.12.

Furthermore you didn't read all of what I said. My plan is to get to 190 lbs at 12% and then cut down to 8-10% which would leave me in pretty good climbing shape and still relatively light. In fact it would leave me at around 170 which is fine. The amount of muscle I had before was pathetic and strength was my huge weakness. It has also helped my body composition tremendously.

And you just compared a lifter you does not climb to a climber...what do you expect the result to be? You can strengthen your fingers SOME lifting weights for sure but all of the different angles/pinch/crimp and general local endurance probably aren't going to be emphasized by somebody trying to get big.


dave13226


May 19, 2011, 11:50 AM
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hafilax


May 19, 2011, 3:18 PM
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Re: [Grizvok] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
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Grizvok wrote:
hafilax wrote:
In the name of science I am in the middle of a little experiment in crossfit as cross training for climbing. I decided to pick up a new hobby after years of being a mediocre gym climber (stuck at soft 5.11d/V5 for a few years) and have now been doing crossfit for about a year now with no gym climbing and no outdoor climbing since about September. Since lifts have improved as follows:
Back Squat: 180->255#
Overhead squat: 95->125#
Deadlift: 200->350#
Bench:125->150#
Press:115->135#
Weighted pullup: ->60#

I can do about 40 consecutive kipping pullups and maybe 18 or so strict. 10 consecutive ring dips. I can also do a kipping muscle-up. My clean and jerk is 185 and snatch 140ish. I'm still a beginner lifter so the lifts go up by quite a bit each time I revisit them.

I also ran a half marathon in August with a total of 3 training runs and managed a time of 1:45 which I was pretty proud of but totally wrecked me for a week. I even entered a couple of crossfit competitions and didn't come in last.

My general fitness has improved by a huge margin. Hiking and backcountry skiing are now effortless as far as the legs are concerned. No DOMS or major muscle fatigue. When I go back to climbing this summer it will be interesting to see if I will be able to climb any better. I have been doing crossfit a lot more than I was gym climbing (3-4 times/week vs 1-2 times/week). I have the feeling that I will have to put in some time getting the endurance back that my climbing level won't be that much different. Outside I am very skill and fear limited since I don't get out that often and am still getting over a big fall I had. In the gym I might be able to climb harder especially in the steep juggy climbs with big moves.

I'll report back once climbing season starts here which will be in a month or so. IME from the breaks I've taken from climbing, the absolute strength comes back quickly and the endurance takes a little longer. The question is whether I will be able to surpass where I was before in any aspects.

What has happened to your weight and bodyfat percentages?

When I started climbing I was 6'2 155 and not in the best condition maybe 14-15% bf...I ended up about 150 and 12-13% after about a year so 6-7 months ago I decided to start lifting and have went from that to 6'2 180 at around 12% using some smaller cut/bulk cycles. I ultimately want to get to 6'2 190 at 12% and then go on a cut to 8% at whatever weight that would be. I've been climbing some but not nearly as much as I used to (maybe 2-3 times a month whereas I was going 3-4 times a week) and am the same at bouldering and better at toprope/leading. I've improved my conditioning a lot and muscle mass quite a bit and am genuinely excited as to if/how it will improve my climbing. I really didn't do it for climbing I was just bummed about having no muscle mass so decided to do something about it and weight lifting plus a calorie surplus did wonders and wonders.
I'm still the same size as when I started crossfit @ 5'8" 160# since I'm not eating like a body builder. I have no idea about body fat % but don't want it to get low. I don't have defined abs so I might guess that it's 16-18%.

One thing that I've learned so far is that you can become much stronger without putting on much weight. My numbers are already quite a bit higher than what I posted above.


flesh


May 19, 2011, 3:47 PM
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Re: [Grizvok] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
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Grizvok wrote:
flesh wrote:
I believe weight lifting will provide zero results. It adds unnecessary weight. If your goal is to climb harder not to look better, just do high rep low weight antagonistic workouts, shoulders, pushups, reverse wrist curls, etc.

If you want to train your core, why not just do it climbing, since you want better core climbing muscles. Try bouldering on an overhang with a weight vest on, you will be stronger from fingers to toes. Or doing one arm lockoffs with both or one foot on in different body positions. Also you could boulder with tennis shoes on and purposely keep your feet on. IMO, overhanging bouldering with a weight vest on yields the best results for core.

My brother is 6 1 190 7% fat, lots of muscle, lifts weight 5 days a week for 5 years now. It's just to much weight. His fingers hurt, his skin hurts, and his endurance is horrible.

Eh. My buddy is 6'2 195 11% bf boulders v8 and leads 5.12.

Furthermore you didn't read all of what I said. My plan is to get to 190 lbs at 12% and then cut down to 8-10% which would leave me in pretty good climbing shape and still relatively light. In fact it would leave me at around 170 which is fine. The amount of muscle I had before was pathetic and strength was my huge weakness. It has also helped my body composition tremendously.

And you just compared a lifter you does not climb to a climber...what do you expect the result to be? You can strengthen your fingers SOME lifting weights for sure but all of the different angles/pinch/crimp and general local endurance probably aren't going to be emphasized by somebody trying to get big.

My brother the weight lifter, boulder v7 FYI

62 170 is a good goal. It won't hurt you to do some sstrength training, just try not to put on much muscle, do medium weight 10-15 reps till failure.

Also, just because your buddy can climb v8 at 195 doesn't mean he wouldn't climb v10-v11 at 165-170. LIke I said, if your primary goal is to climb better not to look better, you don't want any unnessary weight.

If you weigh 190 at 12% fat, you would only have 1% body fat at 170, assuming you kept the muscle. I don't recommend this.


jt512


May 19, 2011, 8:00 PM
Post #230 of 231 (1764 views)
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Re: [flesh] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
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flesh wrote:
Grizvok wrote:
flesh wrote:
I believe weight lifting will provide zero results. It adds unnecessary weight. If your goal is to climb harder not to look better, just do high rep low weight antagonistic workouts, shoulders, pushups, reverse wrist curls, etc.

If you want to train your core, why not just do it climbing, since you want better core climbing muscles. Try bouldering on an overhang with a weight vest on, you will be stronger from fingers to toes. Or doing one arm lockoffs with both or one foot on in different body positions. Also you could boulder with tennis shoes on and purposely keep your feet on. IMO, overhanging bouldering with a weight vest on yields the best results for core.

My brother is 6 1 190 7% fat, lots of muscle, lifts weight 5 days a week for 5 years now. It's just to much weight. His fingers hurt, his skin hurts, and his endurance is horrible.

Eh. My buddy is 6'2 195 11% bf boulders v8 and leads 5.12.

Furthermore you didn't read all of what I said. My plan is to get to 190 lbs at 12% and then cut down to 8-10% which would leave me in pretty good climbing shape and still relatively light. In fact it would leave me at around 170 which is fine. The amount of muscle I had before was pathetic and strength was my huge weakness. It has also helped my body composition tremendously.

And you just compared a lifter you does not climb to a climber...what do you expect the result to be? You can strengthen your fingers SOME lifting weights for sure but all of the different angles/pinch/crimp and general local endurance probably aren't going to be emphasized by somebody trying to get big.

My brother the weight lifter, boulder v7 FYI

62 170 is a good goal. It won't hurt you to do some sstrength training, just try not to put on much muscle, do medium weight 10-15 reps till failure.

Also, just because your buddy can climb v8 at 195 doesn't mean he wouldn't climb v10-v11 at 165-170. LIke I said, if your primary goal is to climb better not to look better, you don't want any unnessary weight.

If you weigh 190 at 12% fat, you would only have 1% body fat at 170, assuming you kept the muscle. I don't recommend this.

There's a word for 1% body fat: dead.

Jay


nopainogain


Jun 1, 2011, 8:21 AM
Post #231 of 231 (1573 views)
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Re: [flesh] Anyone else lift weights here? [In reply to]
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i weigh 211, am 5'9" and wouldn't sacrifice my mass for anything. I love the climbs, i love getting over an edge or using really tiny crimper holds successfully but I wouldnt lose 40lbs to be faster at it.

I powerlifted (squat deadlift bench, not a bodybuilder) for years. Love it, enjoy it, spot for high school and amateur events in my area 2-3 times a year. Sure the 140lb guys that are shredded like cole slaw are amazing on the verts and overhangs but That's their thing, this is mine.

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