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shoo
Sep 24, 2009, 4:43 PM
Post #26 of 30
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Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501
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cracklover wrote: dudemanbu wrote: Also, if a bolt is hand drilled on the lead, it's still trad. The Bachar Yaerian i think is a good example. Yes. Sorry, I thought it was implied, but when I said "Trad means the FA team led it from the ground up, placing gear as they went," I should have clarified that the gear can include both clean and/or fixed gear (pins and bolts.) GO
I would argue that the modern, generally accepted use of the word "trad" implies clean, roped free climbing, without (or with minimal) use of fixed gear, though that was not the original meaning of the word.
Yes, there is great irony in the fact that the definition of the phrase "traditional" has changed to conform to modern standards.
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olderic
Sep 24, 2009, 5:06 PM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1539
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cracklover wrote: [Yes. Sorry, I thought it was implied, but when I said "Trad means the FA team led it from the ground up, placing gear as they went," I should have clarified that the gear can include both clean and/or fixed gear (pins and bolts.) GO
Again there is a hair splitting distinction - BITD (I guess I am feeling my age today with all this reminiscing - guess which b-day is coming up?) a lot of emphasis was made on drilling from natural stances standing (barely) in balance. That was as much a factor in the often runout nature of slab routes as the actual difficulty of hand drilling. And the alternative - typically hanging off of hooks while drilling - was another factor that made the Bacher-Yerian such a land mark climb - one of the early ones to be done "off the hook".
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dolphja
Sep 24, 2009, 5:16 PM
Post #28 of 30
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Registered: May 18, 2001
Posts: 298
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other than what's been discussed about fixed pins or bolts on trad lines, when building your rack, getting set of cams is a good start. make sure you pick up some hexes, nuts, runners, some cordalette, and enough biners to support it. have fun
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uni_jim
Sep 26, 2009, 5:43 AM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Mar 27, 2008
Posts: 429
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Hehe... Come to the rockies and you will see a good share of fixed gear. That crap is littered all over the cliffs. I think that almost half of the routes I climbed this year had a fixed nut, pin, or (rarely) a bolt somewhere along the line.
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 26, 2009, 10:12 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Jun 20, 2009
Posts: 724
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One of my favorite routes has a newer model #1 C4. It's a bomber placement, but I wonder how many years out in the rain it will take for it to fail.
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