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How did you decide to do your first lead?
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lena_chita
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Oct 4, 2009, 6:29 PM
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Re: [rockandlice] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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rockandlice wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
I took a 2-day class during Sterling Rope Goddess on the Rock weekend. During that class I got to practicce placement on the ground and did 4 mock leads with an instructor jumaring on a rope next to me and commenting on placements.

My first real lead was more of a frustration-driven than anything else. There was a large group I was with, everyone was climbing slowly, I climbed ever other route and there was nothing else to climb but this short 5.8 crack... One of the guys had gear. I took it and lead the route.

Were you by chance placing gear on top rope at Junkyard one day this summer? I think it was the entertainer? I just remember hearing the name Lena several times and now that I look at your profile pic it seems familiar. Probably someone different, but it is a small world it seems.

yes, it was me :)


lena_chita
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Oct 4, 2009, 6:30 PM
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Re: [cracklover] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
I took a 2-day class during Sterling Rope Goddess on the Rock weekend.

Cool, which one?

GO

Spring 2008, at Joshua Tree


Partner cracklover


Oct 5, 2009, 9:18 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
I took a 2-day class during Sterling Rope Goddess on the Rock weekend.

Cool, which one?

GO

Spring 2008, at Joshua Tree

Oh, cool! Was WW (Tiff) there?

GO


lena_chita
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Oct 7, 2009, 7:45 AM
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Re: [cracklover] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
I took a 2-day class during Sterling Rope Goddess on the Rock weekend.

Cool, which one?

GO

Spring 2008, at Joshua Tree

Oh, cool! Was WW (Tiff) there?

GO

yep.


TJGoSurf


Oct 7, 2009, 1:12 PM
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Re: [ldrmn] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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First lead was a single pitch sport route, 5.7(in NC). It was my 4th time climbing outside. And getting divorced you really don't care. I didn't even fall. Once I got to the top and clipped in I said WTF?!


healyje


Oct 7, 2009, 2:15 PM
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Re: [ldrmn] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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Silently got handed a rack of one set of stoppers and one of hexs and the sharp end of a 120' hank of goldline. It was a 5.8 and I had followed one or two routes previously. I believe I was wearing $14 JC Penny work boots. Never was any discussion about it and it all went fine from there on out in that I'd second a line or two at each successive grade to 5.10 before leading one and at that point I was on my own.


hansundfritz


Oct 7, 2009, 2:38 PM
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Re: [ldrmn] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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My buddy and I went to the Gunks, looked for something easy, flaked out the rope, and went for it. Neither of us had followed a pitch before. I won the coin toss and led the first pitch. We had maybe a dozen stoppers (half of them on perlon) and a few mid-sized hexes. By the start of the next day's climbing, we had gone to town and acquired a couple of Tri-Cams!

I had learned some basics out of an old book by R.C. Aleith called Bergsteigen. We were total rookies, to be sure -- but knew how to build basic anchors from lots of top-roping.

The key for us was sticking to easy stuff and learning our trade as we went. We also were total addicts -- doing up to 20 pitches in a day. Couldn't sleep late at all -- too eager to get out on the rock. Walked off the Uberfall at dusk many times. So, I guess what I'm saying that you should check your own level of motivation as well as your technical readiness.


jt512


Oct 7, 2009, 6:35 PM
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Re: [TJGoSurf] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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TJGoSurf wrote:
First lead was a single pitch sport route, 5.7(in NC).

North Carolina has sport climbing?

Jay


TJGoSurf


Oct 8, 2009, 12:23 PM
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Re: [jt512] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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We got like 2 or 3 of them. I could have probably put 2 nuts in but I had none. Bolts were only 20' apart.


jt512


Oct 8, 2009, 12:32 PM
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Re: [TJGoSurf] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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TJGoSurf wrote:
We got like 2 or 3 of them. I could have probably put 2 nuts in but I had none. Bolts were only 20' apart.

That's not a sport climb.

Jay


TJGoSurf


Oct 8, 2009, 12:34 PM
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Re: [jt512] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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Explain


rockandlice


Oct 8, 2009, 1:54 PM
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Re: [TJGoSurf] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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TJGoSurf wrote:
Explain

A route being only bolt protected does not automatically make it a sport route. Go read about the Bachar-Yerian.


TJGoSurf


Oct 8, 2009, 1:55 PM
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Re: [rockandlice] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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I know that, we got tons of mix routes here. But even the guide claims its a sport route.


rockandlice


Oct 8, 2009, 2:02 PM
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Re: [TJGoSurf] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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TJGoSurf wrote:
I know that, we got tons of mix routes here. But even the guide claims its a sport route.

Let me clarify. I'm not speaking of mixed routes. I'm talking no natural pro with only fixed protection options. Again, go read up on the Bachar-Yerian for a bit of history and understanding.


TJGoSurf


Oct 8, 2009, 2:10 PM
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Re: [rockandlice] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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He had a bolt every 71', not too bad. He also died this year. That maybe fun to climb once I get done with school.


rockandlice


Oct 8, 2009, 2:15 PM
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Re: [TJGoSurf] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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Sure


eastvillage


Oct 8, 2009, 3:02 PM
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Re: [ldrmn] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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Find VERY EASY short 5.0 to 5.3 trad leads with decent pro and climb them.
Mock leading is a worse than a waste of time, it will destroy your ability to lead at all.

As for my own first lead I took my own advice: After a NOLS Wind River seminar in 1970, my friend and I just picked the easiest climbing we could find at the Gunks (5.0) and kept going from there.


AlEvans


Oct 11, 2009, 2:34 AM
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Re: [ldrmn] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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I never doubted or expected to do anything other than lead. By my third climb I was leading most of what I did, this was in the 1960's so gear was still primitive, but adequate. It's just a state of mind, if you really want to lead you will, sooner rather than later.


Mccohenster


Oct 11, 2009, 3:10 PM
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Re: [AlEvans] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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I had my first successful lead today actually. Before that I had only ever tried to lead one route, at the Gunks. My dad and I had been climbing and he asked if I wanted to try a lead, so we found an easy climb and I gave it a shot. I failed miserablyBlush. I got one piece in and got completely pumped and dead.
Today, my dad and I went to a small crag in Western Mass, called Chapel Ledges, and I sent two easy routes and my dad seconded and criticed me.
It wasn't a decision so much as a mutual unspoken agreement. My dad had hurt is back and it was now fully healed, but he was still tenative to overexert himself. I was also getting to be quite eager to lead, so it just kinda happened that I lead.


AlEvans


Oct 12, 2009, 2:47 AM
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Re: [Mccohenster] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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Well done, you are on your way.


ldrmn


Oct 12, 2009, 3:16 PM
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Re: [AlEvans] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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Yabba Dabba Doo! First lead done this past weekend. I lead two 5.5s with no problems.

I have to say that trad has given me a completely different perspective on climbing, in a good way. And it was quite different than I expected. I guess it felt more like soloing with perks than anything..if that makes sense..

Sunday I was gonna hop on a 5.7, but the 35 degree weather was making me shaky so I backed off. May have to wait till spring for that...

None the less it was RAD, I loved it!


kachoong


Oct 12, 2009, 3:22 PM
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Re: [ldrmn] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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Well done.... welcome to the tard side! Cool


wanderlustmd


Oct 12, 2009, 3:37 PM
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Re: [ldrmn] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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ldrmn wrote:
Yabba Dabba Doo! First lead done this past weekend. I lead two 5.5s with no problems.

I have to say that trad has given me a completely different perspective on climbing, in a good way. And it was quite different than I expected. I guess it felt more like soloing with perks than anything..if that makes sense..

Sunday I was gonna hop on a 5.7, but the 35 degree weather was making me shaky so I backed off. May have to wait till spring for that...

None the less it was RAD, I loved it!
Nice work! Keep it up Smile






















(Continue posting on the occasion that you never, ever use the phrase "yabba dabba doo" again.
Ever.)


TarHeelEMT


Oct 12, 2009, 5:13 PM
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Re: [jt512] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
TJGoSurf wrote:
First lead was a single pitch sport route, 5.7(in NC).

North Carolina has sport climbing?

Jay

There are a number of sport routes at Pilot Mountain, but nobody likes to acknowledge the place's existence and it's not in any guidebooks.

It's the climbing equivalent to a landfill, where we concentrate all the trash to keep them out of our wonderful trad wonderland.


Mccohenster


Oct 14, 2009, 6:29 PM
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Re: [TarHeelEMT] How did you decide to do your first lead? [In reply to]
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TarHeelEMT wrote:
jt512 wrote:
TJGoSurf wrote:
First lead was a single pitch sport route, 5.7(in NC).

North Carolina has sport climbing?

Jay

There are a number of sport routes at Pilot Mountain, but nobody likes to acknowledge the place's existence and it's not in any guidebooks.

It's the climbing equivalent to a landfill, where we concentrate all the trash to keep them out of our wonderful trad wonderland.

I don't know what guidebook your looking in, but the one I borrowed from a friend while living in NC had loads on Pilot, can't remember the name unfortunately. Maybe my dad does...

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