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tripperjm
Jun 22, 2012, 3:30 PM
Post #92501 of 99592
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snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: jakedatc wrote: Not my fault you climbed like shit and had a crappy time. Are you just assuming that or is that a direct report from the people I actually hung out with the one time I climbed there? You're an odd one sometimes. Hopefully something comes of this. Some de-friending at a minimum. jake defriended teh BET? Try to pay attention? I am paying attention. It wasn't really a question. |
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tripperjm
Jun 22, 2012, 3:34 PM
Post #92502 of 99592
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snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: drivel wrote: tripperjm wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: tripperjm wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and Lena, COME TO THE NRG! I may be rafting with Jung on Sunday, so you and dribble could go out and have women's only empowerment on the sandstone! Tell Mr _ung We have expectations on his abilities to rid us of ewe! Rumors were swirling this past weekend at teh Artfest, that an unsuccessful attempt wus made on teh clamheds life recently. I guess CI is knot teh only won, that is hard to kill. Still, dispite my diligent GU.... I have yet to read anything about this failed assassination attempt in teh clamhed's weekly spray report. Course, fer national security reasons, I kin understand this... know sence in giving teh terrerist any ideas. But maybes in grupe teh clamhed cood tell us a vauge story about teh man who fell to earth? Ewe have spies EVERYWHERE! You may be talking about the case with Donny a few weeks ago, when Dribble tried to lower me directly onto a rock a bit overzealously? donny tried to save teh camhat and so i had to abort. real story: i cavalierly went to lower cammy really quickly, like i generally do, and donny's rope was both slicker and stretchier than i was expecting. he came down faster than I thought and even when i closed the gg, the rope kept stretching a couple of feet. the camhat ended up rather closer to the ground than expected. his foot ended up very close to teh ground, indeed. should have been paying closer attention. Nice story.... Still, that's knot teh rumors I've been spreading hearing. ok cryptic old man. are you talking about a different incident? or are you just calling me a shitty belayer? everybody makes mistakes. luckily, people don't die every time. Cryptic old man... heh, that's a gud won. Still, just so we are clear... I wood never suggest ewe are knot a gud belayer and wood happily have ewe belay me any tyme... as long as I hadn't pissed ewe oft recently. I wood suggest that yore facts do knot fit in to my story. Teh rumors I've been spreading hearing... Is that, after a particularly unfunfilling knight ov lovemaking with teh clamhed and then an entire day ov him flirting with jon malkillivich, ewe became enraged. Wanting to teach teh cheating clamhed a lesson, ewe thumbed teh cam on porpose to establish dominance in teh relationship. Sadly, yore plan wus foiled when jon malkillvich dove fer the rope whizzing thru teh gg, stopping teh clamhed inches from teh ground. Even though teh clamhed wus unhurt.... Jon malkillvich decided to give teh clamhed mouth to mouth resuckulation, slipping him teh tounge, just to be sure teh clamhed wus OK. Personally, I applaud yore efforts to kill teh cheating clamhed... but next tyme, I suggest cutting teh rope instead.... less chance ov failure. that's what I heard! It leaves me so disappointed in don malkovich. I now have people several times removed from teh BET calling me John Malkovich. You are all fuckers. Every last one of you. this is what you get for hanging around double agents. Ewe kan't trust teh dubble agent... last tyme i saw her she acussed me ov trying to steal yore draws.... thinking to self... hummm, I still has yore Red River Rest Guide Nevermind. yeah, I'll let you know next time I'm going to be at teh wnsg and maybe see if I can get that back.
I dun't cums home during teh weke end so sent that heads up text, on friday... in a timely fashion. Cuz, I wun't be looking at texts on sat at 4 am.
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tripperjm
Jun 22, 2012, 3:37 PM
Post #92503 of 99592
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camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: tripperjm wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: jakedatc wrote: Not my fault you climbed like shit and had a crappy time. Are you just assuming that or is that a direct report from the people I actually hung out with the one time I climbed there? You're an odd one sometimes. Hopefully something comes of this. Some de-friending at a minimum. heh... a butt gots hurt, and a carnie player left teh game. But sadly.... know angry, butthurtz rant, before teh departure. Cuz, at least that wood has been sum entertainment. Any bets on if he's still lurking? He still logs on, prolly reads the thread, but I'm not counting on any sort of epoch-ish "hey guys, I've just been really busy, but I decided to reply within 30 mins of my name mentioning."
Ewe never kin tell with those carnies... cuz they has teh small hands and smell like cabbage.
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caughtinside
Jun 22, 2012, 3:46 PM
Post #92504 of 99592
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meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bD8eMgOPZlE/T-SGYbg1tUI/AAAAAAAABYQ/0S65htUXDuM/s512/DSC02704.JPG[/image] Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now. suppermocs > mocs? ...sort of. The soles are way thin. They're kind of nice for pulling on holds with your toes in the gym and I'm hopeful the low profile will kick ass in cracks. That said, I'd expect they'd edge worse than regular moccs. Good out of the box but they soften. I bought mine a half size bigger than usual moccs so I'm looking for a totally flat toe. Tom blew through a pair in the five wekes we were at the creke. I have never seen a pair of shoes wear like that. Basically the whole fore sole wore evenly, you could see the seam between the bottom of the rand and the sole bulging out all the way around. That is pretty interesting. I have to say, I don't think I've ever observed any real sole wear on shoes at the creek. Everything is either in the rand or on the upper. You say this cat Tom has good footwork? He went from unable to lead 5.8 to onsighting 11s in a month there.
That would suggest to me that he is strong but his footwork is shit. I don't' know, if he's grinding around a lot in cracks with his feet it could wear it out.
On the other hand, 5 weeks in the creek is a long time and you could easily go through a pair of shoes there in that time, maybe two.
I recently got 140 pitches out of a sole on a shoe, and that was 5mm rubber. 2mm mystique? 70 pitches? I'm sure he blazed through 70 pitches in five weeks.
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tripperjm
Jun 22, 2012, 3:49 PM
Post #92505 of 99592
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camhead wrote: Fuck! Tenuous! Twelve-ewous! Thirteenyewous! Hey See Eye, have you been to Trinity Aretes? Just saw a friend post a pic of some routes there, looks sweet!
We have talked about this.... recently. Try to pay attention?
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meatbomz
Jun 22, 2012, 4:54 PM
Post #92506 of 99592
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
Posts: 7014
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caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter.  Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now. suppermocs > mocs? ...sort of. The soles are way thin. They're kind of nice for pulling on holds with your toes in the gym and I'm hopeful the low profile will kick ass in cracks. That said, I'd expect they'd edge worse than regular moccs. Good out of the box but they soften. I bought mine a half size bigger than usual moccs so I'm looking for a totally flat toe. Tom blew through a pair in the five wekes we were at the creke. I have never seen a pair of shoes wear like that. Basically the whole fore sole wore evenly, you could see the seam between the bottom of the rand and the sole bulging out all the way around. That is pretty interesting. I have to say, I don't think I've ever observed any real sole wear on shoes at the creek. Everything is either in the rand or on the upper. You say this cat Tom has good footwork? He went from unable to lead 5.8 to onsighting 11s in a month there. That would suggest to me that he is strong but his footwork is shit. I don't' know, if he's grinding around a lot in cracks with his feet it could wear it out. On the other hand, 5 weeks in the creek is a long time and you could easily go through a pair of shoes there in that time, maybe two. I recently got 140 pitches out of a sole on a shoe, and that was 5mm rubber. 2mm mystique? 70 pitches? I'm sure he blazed through 70 pitches in five weeks.
I didn't quite finish off the Vibram resole on my Mocs while we were there. But they definitely did not wear even. The usual spots up near the big toes starting to show more rand.
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snoopy138
Jun 22, 2012, 5:46 PM
Post #92508 of 99592
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tripperjm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: tripperjm wrote: snoopy138 wrote: meatbomz wrote: snoopy138 wrote: caughtinside wrote: tripperjm wrote: drivel wrote: tripperjm wrote: drivel wrote: camhead wrote: tripperjm wrote: kachoong wrote: camhead wrote: Oh, and Lena, COME TO THE NRG! I may be rafting with Jung on Sunday, so you and dribble could go out and have women's only empowerment on the sandstone! Tell Mr _ung We have expectations on his abilities to rid us of ewe! Rumors were swirling this past weekend at teh Artfest, that an unsuccessful attempt wus made on teh clamheds life recently. I guess CI is knot teh only won, that is hard to kill. Still, dispite my diligent GU.... I have yet to read anything about this failed assassination attempt in teh clamhed's weekly spray report. Course, fer national security reasons, I kin understand this... know sence in giving teh terrerist any ideas. But maybes in grupe teh clamhed cood tell us a vauge story about teh man who fell to earth? Ewe have spies EVERYWHERE! You may be talking about the case with Donny a few weeks ago, when Dribble tried to lower me directly onto a rock a bit overzealously? donny tried to save teh camhat and so i had to abort. real story: i cavalierly went to lower cammy really quickly, like i generally do, and donny's rope was both slicker and stretchier than i was expecting. he came down faster than I thought and even when i closed the gg, the rope kept stretching a couple of feet. the camhat ended up rather closer to the ground than expected. his foot ended up very close to teh ground, indeed. should have been paying closer attention. Nice story.... Still, that's knot teh rumors I've been spreading hearing. ok cryptic old man. are you talking about a different incident? or are you just calling me a shitty belayer? everybody makes mistakes. luckily, people don't die every time. Cryptic old man... heh, that's a gud won. Still, just so we are clear... I wood never suggest ewe are knot a gud belayer and wood happily have ewe belay me any tyme... as long as I hadn't pissed ewe oft recently. I wood suggest that yore facts do knot fit in to my story. Teh rumors I've been spreading hearing... Is that, after a particularly unfunfilling knight ov lovemaking with teh clamhed and then an entire day ov him flirting with jon malkillivich, ewe became enraged. Wanting to teach teh cheating clamhed a lesson, ewe thumbed teh cam on porpose to establish dominance in teh relationship. Sadly, yore plan wus foiled when jon malkillvich dove fer the rope whizzing thru teh gg, stopping teh clamhed inches from teh ground. Even though teh clamhed wus unhurt.... Jon malkillvich decided to give teh clamhed mouth to mouth resuckulation, slipping him teh tounge, just to be sure teh clamhed wus OK. Personally, I applaud yore efforts to kill teh cheating clamhed... but next tyme, I suggest cutting teh rope instead.... less chance ov failure. that's what I heard! It leaves me so disappointed in don malkovich. I now have people several times removed from teh BET calling me John Malkovich. You are all fuckers. Every last one of you. this is what you get for hanging around double agents. Ewe kan't trust teh dubble agent... last tyme i saw her she acussed me ov trying to steal yore draws.... thinking to self... hummm, I still has yore Red River Rest Guide Nevermind. yeah, I'll let you know next time I'm going to be at teh wnsg and maybe see if I can get that back. I dun't cums home during teh weke end so sent that heads up text, on friday... in a timely fashion. Cuz, I wun't be looking at texts on sat at 4 am.
yep. won't be out their this weke end (moving), but will hopefully get there next weke. will let you know in advance.
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:42 PM
Post #92509 of 99592
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20413
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caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bD8eMgOPZlE/T-SGYbg1tUI/AAAAAAAABYQ/0S65htUXDuM/s512/DSC02704.JPG[/image] Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now.
Fuck, did you snag me on another PTFTW?
Anyhoo, got the mocc back this evening with a tent pole and some wire. Unchewed.
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:48 PM
Post #92510 of 99592
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The supermoccs are super cool, though. I just regret that I wore them so much on sport climbs this spring, since they're almost due for a resole and I'm just beginning to use them on the hard cracks.
Speaking of hard cracks, ahem (put on yore raingear and spray skirts).
Had a fucking awesome day today. Finally snagged a partner from the prodge, who drove down from about 90 minutes north of here, and he was just as psyched as me on Wingate, even in 100 degree desert weather. He knows the park super well, too.
TUrns out all my eastern spurt wankery is helping out my old rusty crack skillz. Managed to onsight two 11+'s, and three 12s, one of which was an FA.
I did pull out the laybacking skills a couple times, and my partner would always follow the lines jamming straight in, like a proper desert rat. I told him the joke about laying back while yore partner jams it in, which fortunately got a laff.
Totally psyched to do more lines there. Turns out that the mega splitter has not been freed yet, but it's going to take way more than the time I have. Unfortunately the temps are just getting hotter, too. gargh. Still, it was fucking awesome to get back into desert splitters.
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:50 PM
Post #92511 of 99592
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meatbomz wrote: tripperjm wrote: meatbomz wrote: granite_grrl wrote: jakedatc wrote: Not my fault you climbed like shit and had a crappy time. Are you just assuming that or is that a direct report from the people I actually hung out with the one time I climbed there? You're an odd one sometimes. Hopefully something comes of this. Some de-friending at a minimum. heh... a butt gots hurt, and a carnie player left teh game. But sadly.... know angry, butthurtz rant, before teh departure. Cuz, at least that wood has been sum entertainment. Eggzactly. It was a real let-down. Sort of like thong. Zeke at least went down in something of a ball of flames.
Durp. The rules guidelines clearly say that if a BET member ever gets so butthurt that they are going to leave, they need to do it in as dramatic and explosive a manner as possible. None of this slinking off into the darkness!
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:52 PM
Post #92512 of 99592
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meatbomz wrote: lena_chita wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: I just found CI's house key in my tango shoes bag! You brought your tango shoes on your climbing road trip? Oh Jesus Fucking Christ. San Francisco was good - but Denver was better! Now you actually make me WANT to bring my dance shoes on a climbing trip Champlain, IL was not so gud.
It's Champagne, you fricking northeasterner. Samuel de Champlain never got as far as IL. Champagne. And it was probably not so good because you don't drink alcohol, not even the bubbly.
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:52 PM
Post #92513 of 99592
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meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: climbingtrash wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Fun weekend, but the first markedly BAD weather conditions trip; humid, smarmy, and condensation. Team clamhat made good progress on the prodges, but I'm getting really sick of taking runs on the same route every trip. Got to within one move of the end of difficulties on Pod, and Dribble easily one-hung Apollo. Was nice to make highpoints even with terrible humidity. Lena, you down for climbzing this weekend? I predict sendage! Oh shit, we're going to deal with ten pages of Donny GUing, while he basks in his glory of zending the Nose. Went for a nice hike today. First real hike I've done in years. Was fun. Found another beautiful virgin splitter that is right on the boundary of the National Park (which does not allow new bolts). Not sure if it's actually in it or not. just top out and walk off. You know, I had not thought of that. Oh wait, yes I had. Crack ends with over 200 more feet of unfeatured wingate above it. #20? Ok, way psyched now. Google Earth says that this particular route, as well as one other, are a safe and comfortable 70-100 feet outside the NPS boundary. So now I can post photos, woo! [image]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zHIfeaIKLkE/T-EPN1NUm4I/AAAAAAAABX4/WRqq_HH6hvY/s512/DSC02742.JPG[/image] [image]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uUlEkC5KDBU/T-ERJIAuG6I/AAAAAAAABYA/ZI_vu8g_Bro/s512/DSC02739.JPG[/image] Not really worried about lurkers snaking the lines. Still haven't found any partners here, just a few folks who used to climb. I'm having some trouble seeing the cracks without the chalk caked along the edges. We need some Moab folks greenplates to come over and get some tics on there. Otherwise, I won't know where to put my hands.  TRASHY, get your ass up here. I am seriously desperate for partners. please, please let this end in a murder-suicide. how do we decide who murders and who suicides? Does it matter? GU Dutch slave ship of GU
This may be the biggest GU-storm since Spy Gheyme.
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:54 PM
Post #92514 of 99592
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meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Fuck! Tenuous! Twelve-ewous! Thirteenyewous! Hey See Eye, have you been to Trinity Aretes? Just saw a friend post a pic of some routes there, looks sweet! I was there for the first time over memorial day. It kicks ass! Some gnu photos showed up on this blorg like yesterday: http://tarareynvaan.blogspot.com/Yurp, those were the same pics I saw. I think that (climber gossip) that Tara chick was dating Palo, and now she's running around doing stuff with Kerchner, a strong kid who just moved from the East to Bhey Area. I think that is all true. It's funny, I check both their blogs once a week or so, and it was like reading half a story from two sides. They'd both talk about 'personal turmoil' and delete the link to the other's blog. Then next week the link would be back, they'd be making videos (a great one of Tara on Kings of Rap) and then the link gone again, video deleted. I felt kind of stockery reading between the lines... but that's life with a blog I guess? Yeah, total dramz. I guess that Palo dumped her, which most folks I've talked to see as a bad move. He climbs hard, but is kind of funny looking, and she's a way cute Indian chick with tattoos. And for a long time, some of us were wondering if Kerch was teh ghey. He fratbros it out more than snupe, with way more homosexual innuendos. We saw him at the crag once, mentioned that we had seen Banz, and he instantly picked up his phone, called Banz, and started yelling "Give me back my rainbow flag, mutherfucker! NOW!" WTF? Banz is ghey?
This has been a longstanding discussion. Still, if you approach random strangers at the crag and start telling them that you're into Twighlight, does it really matter if you've ever sucked ____ or not?
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:56 PM
Post #92515 of 99592
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caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bD8eMgOPZlE/T-SGYbg1tUI/AAAAAAAABYQ/0S65htUXDuM/s512/DSC02704.JPG[/image] Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now. suppermocs > mocs? ...sort of. The soles are way thin. They're kind of nice for pulling on holds with your toes in the gym and I'm hopeful the low profile will kick ass in cracks. That said, I'd expect they'd edge worse than regular moccs. Good out of the box but they soften. I bought mine a half size bigger than usual moccs so I'm looking for a totally flat toe.
My porbelm was that the pair I scored for cheap was the same size as my moccs, even though the supers stretch less.
Still, didn't seem to hinder my great desert send fest of 2012. Woo!
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camhead
Jun 22, 2012, 6:57 PM
Post #92516 of 99592
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meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bD8eMgOPZlE/T-SGYbg1tUI/AAAAAAAABYQ/0S65htUXDuM/s512/DSC02704.JPG[/image] Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now. suppermocs > mocs? ...sort of. The soles are way thin. They're kind of nice for pulling on holds with your toes in the gym and I'm hopeful the low profile will kick ass in cracks. That said, I'd expect they'd edge worse than regular moccs. Good out of the box but they soften. I bought mine a half size bigger than usual moccs so I'm looking for a totally flat toe. Tom blew through a pair in the five wekes we were at the creke. I have never seen a pair of shoes wear like that. Basically the whole fore sole wore evenly, you could see the seam between the bottom of the rand and the sole bulging out all the way around. That is pretty interesting. I have to say, I don't think I've ever observed any real sole wear on shoes at the creek. Everything is either in the rand or on the upper. You say this cat Tom has good footwork? He went from unable to lead 5.8 to onsighting 11s in a month there.
I'll bet he just found all the soft 11s.
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caughtinside
Jun 22, 2012, 8:12 PM
Post #92517 of 99592
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bD8eMgOPZlE/T-SGYbg1tUI/AAAAAAAABYQ/0S65htUXDuM/s512/DSC02704.JPG[/image] Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now. suppermocs > mocs? ...sort of. The soles are way thin. They're kind of nice for pulling on holds with your toes in the gym and I'm hopeful the low profile will kick ass in cracks. That said, I'd expect they'd edge worse than regular moccs. Good out of the box but they soften. I bought mine a half size bigger than usual moccs so I'm looking for a totally flat toe. Tom blew through a pair in the five wekes we were at the creke. I have never seen a pair of shoes wear like that. Basically the whole fore sole wore evenly, you could see the seam between the bottom of the rand and the sole bulging out all the way around. That is pretty interesting. I have to say, I don't think I've ever observed any real sole wear on shoes at the creek. Everything is either in the rand or on the upper. You say this cat Tom has good footwork? He went from unable to lead 5.8 to onsighting 11s in a month there. I'll bet he just found all the soft 11s.
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caughtinside
Jun 22, 2012, 8:15 PM
Post #92518 of 99592
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how did you get off the FA anyway? Was there an anchor or did you put one in? Top out?
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meatbomz
Jun 23, 2012, 4:20 AM
Post #92519 of 99592
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
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camhead wrote: The supermoccs are super cool, though. I just regret that I wore them so much on sport climbs this spring, since they're almost due for a resole and I'm just beginning to use them on the hard cracks. Speaking of hard cracks, ahem (put on yore raingear and spray skirts). Had a fucking awesome day today. Finally snagged a partner from the prodge, who drove down from about 90 minutes north of here, and he was just as psyched as me on Wingate, even in 100 degree desert weather. He knows the park super well, too. TUrns out all my eastern spurt wankery is helping out my old rusty crack skillz. Managed to onsight two 11+'s, and three 12s, one of which was an FA. I did pull out the laybacking skills a couple times, and my partner would always follow the lines jamming straight in, like a proper desert rat. I told him the joke about laying back while yore partner jams it in, which fortunately got a laff. Totally psyched to do more lines there. Turns out that the mega splitter has not been freed yet, but it's going to take way more than the time I have. Unfortunately the temps are just getting hotter, too. gargh. Still, it was fucking awesome to get back into desert splitters.
That is awesome.
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meatbomz
Jun 23, 2012, 4:21 AM
Post #92520 of 99592
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: lena_chita wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: granite_grrl wrote: meatbomz wrote: I just found CI's house key in my tango shoes bag! You brought your tango shoes on your climbing road trip? Oh Jesus Fucking Christ. San Francisco was good - but Denver was better! Now you actually make me WANT to bring my dance shoes on a climbing trip Champlain, IL was not so gud. It's Champagne, you fricking northeasterner. Samuel de Champlain never got as far as IL. Champagne. And it was probably not so good because you don't drink alcohol, not even the bubbly.
The head tango guy there was a bit of a creeper.
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meatbomz
Jun 23, 2012, 4:22 AM
Post #92521 of 99592
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Fuck! Tenuous! Twelve-ewous! Thirteenyewous! Hey See Eye, have you been to Trinity Aretes? Just saw a friend post a pic of some routes there, looks sweet! I was there for the first time over memorial day. It kicks ass! Some gnu photos showed up on this blorg like yesterday: http://tarareynvaan.blogspot.com/Yurp, those were the same pics I saw. I think that (climber gossip) that Tara chick was dating Palo, and now she's running around doing stuff with Kerchner, a strong kid who just moved from the East to Bhey Area. I think that is all true. It's funny, I check both their blogs once a week or so, and it was like reading half a story from two sides. They'd both talk about 'personal turmoil' and delete the link to the other's blog. Then next week the link would be back, they'd be making videos (a great one of Tara on Kings of Rap) and then the link gone again, video deleted. I felt kind of stockery reading between the lines... but that's life with a blog I guess? Yeah, total dramz. I guess that Palo dumped her, which most folks I've talked to see as a bad move. He climbs hard, but is kind of funny looking, and she's a way cute Indian chick with tattoos. And for a long time, some of us were wondering if Kerch was teh ghey. He fratbros it out more than snupe, with way more homosexual innuendos. We saw him at the crag once, mentioned that we had seen Banz, and he instantly picked up his phone, called Banz, and started yelling "Give me back my rainbow flag, mutherfucker! NOW!" WTF? Banz is ghey? This has been a longstanding discussion. Still, if you approach random strangers at the crag and start telling them that you're into Twighlight, does it really matter if you've ever sucked ____ or not?
Is that a rhett-oracle question?
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meatbomz
Jun 23, 2012, 4:25 AM
Post #92522 of 99592
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bD8eMgOPZlE/T-SGYbg1tUI/AAAAAAAABYQ/0S65htUXDuM/s512/DSC02704.JPG[/image] Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now. suppermocs > mocs? ...sort of. The soles are way thin. They're kind of nice for pulling on holds with your toes in the gym and I'm hopeful the low profile will kick ass in cracks. That said, I'd expect they'd edge worse than regular moccs. Good out of the box but they soften. I bought mine a half size bigger than usual moccs so I'm looking for a totally flat toe. Tom blew through a pair in the five wekes we were at the creke. I have never seen a pair of shoes wear like that. Basically the whole fore sole wore evenly, you could see the seam between the bottom of the rand and the sole bulging out all the way around. That is pretty interesting. I have to say, I don't think I've ever observed any real sole wear on shoes at the creek. Everything is either in the rand or on the upper. You say this cat Tom has good footwork? He went from unable to lead 5.8 to onsighting 11s in a month there. I'll bet he just found all the soft 11s.
He did Sinestra as we left, which I suppose is more headpointy than hard. On one of our first days he got his first 10+ OS at Pistol Whipped, then fired CC Simulator (11-?) and Spaghetti Western (11). He's a hard spurt manboi so he just needed to learn how to jam it in.
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meatbomz
Jun 23, 2012, 4:25 AM
Post #92523 of 99592
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Registered: Apr 23, 2010
Posts: 7014
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caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: meatbomz wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: Finally got sick of bouldering yesterday, and so loaded up the ol'desert rack, and decided to try solo aiding some stuff, to set up TRs and run laps. Got to the base of the cliff, was going to try this one two off-fingers splitter. [image]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bD8eMgOPZlE/T-SGYbg1tUI/AAAAAAAABYQ/0S65htUXDuM/s512/DSC02704.JPG[/image] Unfortunately, I failed to read what I had written years ago about the base of this crag: In reply to: Warning: Terrible Twos and Thinner start from the top of a huge block of sandstone that rests against the wall. There is a crevice between this and the wall that people have dropped and lost gear into. Booty pit!!! Dumped out my gear, and one of my Supermoccs promptly rolled down into a 5 camalot-sized crevice. Didn't have my stickclip, so I couldn't get it out. Set up a bomber anchor in the 5 camalot crevice, HIV'd my way up the crack. Decided to climb it barefoot, and surprised myself by tronsiting it (though i'm not sure if you can tronsite something you just aided? Erie Guardless, got it first go). Was pretty psyched, it's just a simple .5 and .75 camalot splitter, crux in the first half, but it felt awesome to get back into enduro jamming. Actually have a partner I met on the mountainprodge heading down today, not sure where we're going, but I need to make a retrieval pole for my mocc. Hope that rats didn't chew it up last night; they love sweat-saturated leather. dang, sux about the mocc. I just got my supermoccs in the mail last week and have been using them in the gym to wear them in. THey really are like having a glove on your foot. I hope to get them just right in the gym, then hermetically seal them and only break them out for the right cracks. That $50 deal on them was too good to pass up, even though I got a pile of moccs now. suppermocs > mocs? ...sort of. The soles are way thin. They're kind of nice for pulling on holds with your toes in the gym and I'm hopeful the low profile will kick ass in cracks. That said, I'd expect they'd edge worse than regular moccs. Good out of the box but they soften. I bought mine a half size bigger than usual moccs so I'm looking for a totally flat toe. Tom blew through a pair in the five wekes we were at the creke. I have never seen a pair of shoes wear like that. Basically the whole fore sole wore evenly, you could see the seam between the bottom of the rand and the sole bulging out all the way around. That is pretty interesting. I have to say, I don't think I've ever observed any real sole wear on shoes at the creek. Everything is either in the rand or on the upper. You say this cat Tom has good footwork? He went from unable to lead 5.8 to onsighting 11s in a month there. I'll bet he just found all the soft 11s. There is a reason the soft routes are the popular routes
(ref: Annunaki)
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snoopy138
Jun 23, 2012, 4:33 PM
Post #92524 of 99592
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28105
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camhead wrote: The supermoccs are super cool, though. I just regret that I wore them so much on sport climbs this spring, since they're almost due for a resole and I'm just beginning to use them on the hard cracks. Speaking of hard cracks, ahem (put on yore raingear and spray skirts). Had a fucking awesome day today. Finally snagged a partner from the prodge, who drove down from about 90 minutes north of here, and he was just as psyched as me on Wingate, even in 100 degree desert weather. He knows the park super well, too. TUrns out all my eastern spurt wankery is helping out my old rusty crack skillz. Managed to onsight two 11+'s, and three 12s, one of which was an FA. I did pull out the laybacking skills a couple times, and my partner would always follow the lines jamming straight in, like a proper desert rat.
if you can't climb it ...
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snoopy138
Jun 23, 2012, 4:35 PM
Post #92525 of 99592
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camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: carabiner96 wrote: climbingtrash wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: climbingtrash wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: camhead wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: meatbomz wrote: camhead wrote: Fun weekend, but the first markedly BAD weather conditions trip; humid, smarmy, and condensation. Team clamhat made good progress on the prodges, but I'm getting really sick of taking runs on the same route every trip. Got to within one move of the end of difficulties on Pod, and Dribble easily one-hung Apollo. Was nice to make highpoints even with terrible humidity. Lena, you down for climbzing this weekend? I predict sendage! Oh shit, we're going to deal with ten pages of Donny GUing, while he basks in his glory of zending the Nose. Went for a nice hike today. First real hike I've done in years. Was fun. Found another beautiful virgin splitter that is right on the boundary of the National Park (which does not allow new bolts). Not sure if it's actually in it or not. just top out and walk off. You know, I had not thought of that. Oh wait, yes I had. Crack ends with over 200 more feet of unfeatured wingate above it. #20? Ok, way psyched now. Google Earth says that this particular route, as well as one other, are a safe and comfortable 70-100 feet outside the NPS boundary. So now I can post photos, woo! [image]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-zHIfeaIKLkE/T-EPN1NUm4I/AAAAAAAABX4/WRqq_HH6hvY/s512/DSC02742.JPG[/image] [image]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-uUlEkC5KDBU/T-ERJIAuG6I/AAAAAAAABYA/ZI_vu8g_Bro/s512/DSC02739.JPG[/image] Not really worried about lurkers snaking the lines. Still haven't found any partners here, just a few folks who used to climb. I'm having some trouble seeing the cracks without the chalk caked along the edges. We need some Moab folks greenplates to come over and get some tics on there. Otherwise, I won't know where to put my hands. TRASHY, get your ass up here. I am seriously desperate for partners. please, please let this end in a murder-suicide. how do we decide who murders and who suicides? Does it matter? GU Dutch slave ship of GU This may be the biggest GU-storm since Spy Gheyme.
I'll note that you're still alive.
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