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camhead


Sep 18, 2012, 9:06 AM
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PTFTW


camhead


Sep 18, 2012, 9:07 AM
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not sure how much to pertect in such a dead place today.


camhead


Sep 18, 2012, 9:08 AM
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murp.


snoopy138


Sep 18, 2012, 9:28 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
got up at 5 AM, ate a bit, drove over Tioga to Cathedral Lakes parking. put together minimal rack, tried not to freeze (I forgot to pack a jacket of any sort for the trip) and headed off to Matthes around 7:15.

Simul'd the whole thing with about 50 ft. of rope between us, except for the downclimb off the south summit and one pitch up the north summit. were at the south summit around 2, ate lunch, and then had to wait for a pair of dickbags to head up the north summit. they were climbing with twin ropes, the follower was talking about getting back into it, and kept falling off the 5.7 crux. oh, and they wasted 20 minutes dicking around on the summit, while talking about how they were going to rappel first. dickbags.

got back to the car around 7, lots of sites open in the meadows. had 2 beers and passed out ~9:30.

dude, you finished the traverse right? Rapping off matthes is a crime!

counted at least 9 parties on the route on saturday, 2 did the whole thing I think. there was a party of 3 that started up before us, and I think was pitching out the whole thing, with the 2 followers climbing separately. when we got down to the talus, we still hadn't seen them show up to either summit.

That's a facepalm.
durp.

if you only knew. long stretches of class 3 and below.

the brit and I were simuling, but for a lot of it there was no pro, our plan was to jump the other way off the ridge if somebody fell. seemed easier than roping and unroping over and over.

another highlight ... the dickbags with the twin ropes broke the 115 foot pitch to the north summit into 2 pitches because you can't get down to the starting ledge with a 60m rope. they asked if we wanted to pass, then told us we couldn't.
WTF???

I'ts 30 feet of 5.7 before it eases back to like 5.5.

That is some super week shit!

yes, it was. 30 ft. is exaggerating a bit. at the "curx", the follower repeatedly fell; the brit had to eventually remove a cam for them, because the leader had stuffed a C3 in, put no sling on it, and it had buried itself in that carck.


snoopy138


Sep 18, 2012, 9:29 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
not sure how much to pertect in such a dead place today.

had you not protekted at all, I would have franchised ewe.


camhead


Sep 18, 2012, 9:31 AM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
not sure how much to pertect in such a dead place today.

had you not protekted at all, I would have franchised ewe.

Well then, my day is a stunning success already.


lena_chita
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Sep 18, 2012, 10:08 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Weekend report.

I'm climbing like shit.

That is awl.

Mad


At least you climbed... and THAT is a very sad awl.


carabiner96


Sep 18, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
biner and the lumber jack dropped in last night. We drank teh beers, and talked about boring married people stuff (gardening and pets) until like 2am. Good times. Was grate to finally meet the elusive Brian. Burley and Nugget did not join us.
Holy sheet, we never once talked about bread!


camhead


Sep 18, 2012, 10:50 AM
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
camhead wrote:
biner and the lumber jack dropped in last night. We drank teh beers, and talked about boring married people stuff (gardening and pets) until like 2am. Good times. Was grate to finally meet the elusive Brian. Burley and Nugget did not join us.
Holy sheet, we never once talked about bread!

I told you, I've moved to gluten-free conversation.


lena_chita
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Sep 18, 2012, 11:26 AM
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
camhead wrote:
biner and the lumber jack dropped in last night. We drank teh beers, and talked about boring married people stuff (gardening and pets) until like 2am. Good times. Was grate to finally meet the elusive Brian. Burley and Nugget did not join us.
Holy sheet, we never once talked about bread!

I told you, I've moved to gluten-free conversation.

DIS CUSTARD


camhead


Sep 18, 2012, 11:53 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
camhead wrote:
biner and the lumber jack dropped in last night. We drank teh beers, and talked about boring married people stuff (gardening and pets) until like 2am. Good times. Was grate to finally meet the elusive Brian. Burley and Nugget did not join us.
Holy sheet, we never once talked about bread!

I told you, I've moved to gluten-free conversation.

DIS CUSTARD

in dis pear!


dr_feelgood


Sep 18, 2012, 12:33 PM
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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[SPRAYDOWN]



Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.



It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.



Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.




The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.


Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.


After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.


We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.


snoopy138


Sep 18, 2012, 12:33 PM
Post #93538 of 102912 (1150 views)
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Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
camhead wrote:
biner and the lumber jack dropped in last night. We drank teh beers, and talked about boring married people stuff (gardening and pets) until like 2am. Good times. Was grate to finally meet the elusive Brian. Burley and Nugget did not join us.
Holy sheet, we never once talked about bread!

I told you, I've moved to gluten-free conversation.

if only you could move to notfunny-free conversation.


snoopy138


Sep 18, 2012, 12:37 PM
Post #93539 of 102912 (1148 views)
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
[SPRAYDOWN]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9170041.jpg[/IMG]

Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150013.jpg[/IMG]

It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150020.jpg[/IMG]

Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160023.jpg[/IMG]

The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160028.jpg[/IMG]

Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160029.jpg[/IMG]

After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160032.jpg[/IMG]

We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.

ICTd.

Sounds like a typical Dr. F. day out, with the added bonus of getting to the top of the mountain.


dr_feelgood


Sep 18, 2012, 5:42 PM
Post #93540 of 102912 (1132 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
[SPRAYDOWN]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9170041.jpg[/IMG]

Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150013.jpg[/IMG]

It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150020.jpg[/IMG]

Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160023.jpg[/IMG]

The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160028.jpg[/IMG]

Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160029.jpg[/IMG]

After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160032.jpg[/IMG]

We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.

ICTd.

Sounds like a typical Dr. F. day out, with the added bonus of getting to the top of the mountain.
yes, no peak dodging this time.


snoopy138


Sep 19, 2012, 9:01 AM
Post #93541 of 102912 (1109 views)
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Posts: 28728

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
[SPRAYDOWN]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9170041.jpg[/IMG]

Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150013.jpg[/IMG]

It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150020.jpg[/IMG]

Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160023.jpg[/IMG]

The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160028.jpg[/IMG]

Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160029.jpg[/IMG]

After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160032.jpg[/IMG]

We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.

ICTd.

Sounds like a typical Dr. F. day out, with the added bonus of getting to the top of the mountain.
yes, no peak dodging this time.

you should have m34TB0MZ'd teh talus 200 ft. from the top.


dr_feelgood


Sep 19, 2012, 9:12 AM
Post #93542 of 102912 (1106 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25720

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
[SPRAYDOWN]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9170041.jpg[/IMG]

Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150013.jpg[/IMG]

It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150020.jpg[/IMG]

Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160023.jpg[/IMG]

The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160028.jpg[/IMG]

Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160029.jpg[/IMG]

After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160032.jpg[/IMG]

We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.

ICTd.

Sounds like a typical Dr. F. day out, with the added bonus of getting to the top of the mountain.
yes, no peak dodging this time.

you should have m34TB0MZ'd teh talus 200 ft. from the top.
yeah, except this time I came prepared. With stuff like a rope. And crampons. And a partner.


caughtinside


Sep 19, 2012, 12:13 PM
Post #93543 of 102912 (1081 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30371

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
[SPRAYDOWN]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9170041.jpg[/IMG]

Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150013.jpg[/IMG]

It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150020.jpg[/IMG]

Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160023.jpg[/IMG]

The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160028.jpg[/IMG]

Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160029.jpg[/IMG]

After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160032.jpg[/IMG]

We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.

ICTd.

Sounds like a typical Dr. F. day out, with the added bonus of getting to the top of the mountain.
yes, no peak dodging this time.

you should have m34TB0MZ'd teh talus 200 ft. from the top.
yeah, except this time I came prepared. With stuff like a rope. And crampons. And a partner.

Damn shame about the boots.

ANd I wouldn't hold out much hope for the Creedence.


dr_feelgood


Sep 19, 2012, 1:04 PM
Post #93544 of 102912 (1075 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25720

Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
[SPRAYDOWN]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9170041.jpg[/IMG]

Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150013.jpg[/IMG]

It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150020.jpg[/IMG]

Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160023.jpg[/IMG]

The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160028.jpg[/IMG]

Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160029.jpg[/IMG]

After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160032.jpg[/IMG]

We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.

ICTd.

Sounds like a typical Dr. F. day out, with the added bonus of getting to the top of the mountain.
yes, no peak dodging this time.

you should have m34TB0MZ'd teh talus 200 ft. from the top.
yeah, except this time I came prepared. With stuff like a rope. And crampons. And a partner.

Damn shame about the boots.

ANd I wouldn't hold out much hope for the Creedence.
Got any good leads?


snoopy138


Sep 19, 2012, 3:40 PM
Post #93545 of 102912 (1054 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28728

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
Report this Post
Can't Post

dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
[SPRAYDOWN]

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9170041.jpg[/IMG]

Weke-end and monday update:

My friend doug has been wanting to do the north face of Granite Peak, Montana's highest point. Hannah had stuff to do on saturday, so we figured this was a good time to do it.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150013.jpg[/IMG]

It is the face in the background with the glacier below it. We were shooting for a route up the left side of it, roughly rated 5.8 AI3 IV

Saturday morning rolls around. We're not trying to do it in a day, so we figure a leisurely meeting time of 6 am. We're at the trailhead at 9. I rented a pair of lightweight ice climbing boots as I am the better ice climber, and wore them for the approach. After several miles, I have several blisters, the most notable to be seen later, but hence the duct taped foot. The approach is 9ish miles, only 3 of which are on actual trail. The rest is over and around superfun boulder fields. Highly, highly unstable.

We get to the bivy, and get to see the mountain for the first time. From a distance, we guess two or three pitches of ice, and maybe four of rock. As we're falling asleep, I start to hear something moving, and then doug yelling. By the time I got my headlamp out, there was only a flash of white to be seen. I managed to catch a picture of the vicious beast here. I think it was the Yeti.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150020.jpg[/IMG]

Okay, maybe not a yeti. Those little fuckers annoyed us all night, eating the ground where we pissed and at one point stepping on doug. 4:30 comes around, and they are still there, despite a fusillade of rocks and swearing.

We get ready to head up.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9150016.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160023.jpg[/IMG]

The two or three pitches of glacier turns into six pitches of glacial snow and hard low angle ice. I really don't like low angle ice, but since I had the better boot setup, I did all the leading.
Doug was stuck french stepping and frontpointing in this setup.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160028.jpg[/IMG]

Finally at the top of the glacier. I take a last few pictures and put the camera under my softshell.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160029.jpg[/IMG]

After the first few pitches, it starts snowing. Four pitches turned into eight or so, and all the available route descriptions focus a lot on history and not much on detail. The snow made everything nice and slick, so going was slow. We originally planned to be at the summit around noon or one, but finally made it up at six. Only a few yer gunna die belays.

Now the downclimb/walkoff. A lot of this.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Dr_feelgood/Granite%20Peak%20North%20Face/P9160032.jpg[/IMG]

We finally make it back to our bivy at 11:00. Completely fucking nizzled. Scarf a clif bar and start some watery-iodiney goodness, and pack. The world's largest boulder field looms ahead, but we're through it in 45 minutes. It took us an hour on the approach. I love caffeinated hammer gel.

We wander around, cursing doug's wanton disregard of his GPS(in the car, not with us), our collective map reading skills, and the utter lack of trail. After two hours of this, we decide to bivy, having found the same lake three times.

After realizing we missed the drainage by fifty feet with the benefit of daylight, we hike out. We're back at the car at noon.

I am still limping.

ICTd.

Sounds like a typical Dr. F. day out, with the added bonus of getting to the top of the mountain.
yes, no peak dodging this time.

you should have m34TB0MZ'd teh talus 200 ft. from the top.
yeah, except this time I came prepared. With stuff like a rope. And crampons. And a partner.

this shouldn't necessarily have stopped ewe.


camhead


Sep 20, 2012, 7:30 AM
Post #93546 of 102912 (1032 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20704

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Well, Team Clamhat finally bit the bullet, drank the Flavor-ade, and got i-yups. When the 5 came out, we found out we could get the 4 for free, with our plan not even going up that much.

Of course, the gnu iyups arrived in the mail, but we cannot activate them until drivel's parents take us off of their famly plan, and they're off the grid in the land of milk and honey right now. The tension is killing us! We can haz crass consumption, now? NOW!


caughtinside


Sep 20, 2012, 8:50 AM
Post #93547 of 102912 (1024 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30371

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Well, Team Clamhat finally bit the bullet, drank the Flavor-ade, and got i-yups. When the 5 came out, we found out we could get the 4 for free, with our plan not even going up that much.

Of course, the gnu iyups arrived in the mail, but we cannot activate them until drivel's parents take us off of their famly plan, and they're off the grid in the land of milk and honey right now. The tension is killing us! We can haz crass consumption, now? NOW!

lolz.

My 3 just croaked last week. My 5 is ordered but delayed due to fanboi overbuying. I'm using a crappy old nokia right now and it reminds me what life was like before Yup.


snoopy138


Sep 20, 2012, 8:54 AM
Post #93548 of 102912 (1021 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28728

Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
Well, Team Clamhat finally bit the bullet, drank the Flavor-ade, and got i-yups. When the 5 came out, we found out we could get the 4 for free, with our plan not even going up that much.

Of course, the gnu iyups arrived in the mail, but we cannot activate them until drivel's parents take us off of their famly plan, and they're off the grid in the land of milk and honey right now. The tension is killing us! We can haz crass consumption, now? NOW!

lolz.

My 3 just croaked last week. My 5 is ordered but delayed due to fanboi overbuying. I'm using a crappy old nokia right now and it reminds me what life was like before Yup.

hey, I'm using a crappy old nokia now, two.


snoopy138


Sep 20, 2012, 8:55 AM
Post #93549 of 102912 (1020 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28728

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Well, Team Clamhat finally bit the bullet, drank the Flavor-ade, and got i-yups. When the 5 came out, we found out we could get the 4 for free, with our plan not even going up that much.

Of course, the gnu iyups arrived in the mail, but we cannot activate them until drivel's parents take us off of their famly plan, and they're off the grid in the land of milk and honey right now. The tension is killing us! We can haz crass consumption, now? NOW!

did ewe get the 4 or the 4s?


camhead


Sep 20, 2012, 9:11 AM
Post #93550 of 102912 (1017 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20704

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
camhead wrote:
Well, Team Clamhat finally bit the bullet, drank the Flavor-ade, and got i-yups. When the 5 came out, we found out we could get the 4 for free, with our plan not even going up that much.

Of course, the gnu iyups arrived in the mail, but we cannot activate them until drivel's parents take us off of their famly plan, and they're off the grid in the land of milk and honey right now. The tension is killing us! We can haz crass consumption, now? NOW!

did ewe get the 4 or the 4s?

4.

Still a big step up from my razr, heh.

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