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camhead


Nov 17, 2012, 6:20 PM
Post #94276 of 103384 (1215 views)
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
In other news, we're going to the creke for t-day break. I need suggestions for way radgnar must-do routes.

do yoreself teh favor and stay home. T-day break is usually swimming with green plates and teh weather can be iffy.
Do yourself a favor and fuck off. We're bringing the blue plates and real beerz down there.

Fine, have it yore way donny. That kind of scene may just be up yore ally anyway.

One of my favorite roots in teh creek is Top Sirloin at teh 2nd meat wall.

[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/22/42/107052242_medium_c554eb.jpg[/image]

Drup. Top Sirloin is amazing.

Drup. It is part of the #1 trifecta, with Pente and Excuse Station.

mmm... #1s. Love em. They're so civilized, no thrutching, no pain, just hard enough to keep you thinking. Pure elegance.


camhead


Nov 17, 2012, 6:21 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
In other news, we're going to the creke for t-day break. I need suggestions for way radgnar must-do routes.

do yoreself teh favor and stay home. T-day break is usually swimming with green plates and teh weather can be iffy.
Do yourself a favor and fuck off. We're bringing the blue plates and real beerz down there.

Fine, have it yore way donny. That kind of scene may just be up yore ally anyway.

One of my favorite roots in teh creek is Top Sirloin at teh 2nd meat wall.

[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/22/42/107052242_medium_c554eb.jpg[/image]

Drup. Top Sirloin is amazing.

Drup. It is part of the #1 trifecta, with Pente and Excuse Station.

I also have a list of Creek Fake 5.12 if you like:
Coyne Carck
T-Bones Tonight
Dos Hermanos
Way Rambo

crap... I know I had at least one more.

Yore forgetting the one where everyone jerks off on the chick's face til she cries.

Oh, and Camping Under the Influence. And Sig Sauer. More softies.


camhead


Nov 17, 2012, 6:24 PM
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Woo. I accidentally the PTFTW. Teh hole thing!


camhead


Nov 17, 2012, 6:26 PM
Post #94279 of 103384 (1210 views)
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Staying in tonight by my lonesome while teh dribble swingity swings. Missing way good climbing temps, but my ab hurtz. Watching a gnu version of Treasure Island with Eddie Izzard as Long John Silver. It's pretty rad.


dr_feelgood


Nov 17, 2012, 7:06 PM
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camhead wrote:
Staying in tonight by my lonesome while teh dribble swingity swings. Missing way good climbing temps, but my ab hurtz. Watching a gnu version of Treasure Island with Eddie Izzard as Long John Silver. It's pretty rad.
If you were ever into Battlestar Galactica, they have a prequel series that I watch part of today while ___ing my paper. Not bad, decent soap-operaish plot, lots of tie ins to the series. The acting kind of sucks, but whatevs.


carabiner96


Nov 17, 2012, 8:16 PM
Post #94281 of 103384 (1198 views)
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
camhead wrote:
Staying in tonight by my lonesome while teh dribble swingity swings. Missing way good climbing temps, but my ab hurtz. Watching a gnu version of Treasure Island with Eddie Izzard as Long John Silver. It's pretty rad.
If you were ever into Battlestar Galactica, they have a prequel series that I watch part of today while ___ing my paper. Not bad, decent soap-operaish plot, lots of tie ins to the series. The acting kind of sucks, but whatevs.
Caprica? That reminds me, I never finished it.


dr_feelgood


Nov 17, 2012, 9:59 PM
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
camhead wrote:
Staying in tonight by my lonesome while teh dribble swingity swings. Missing way good climbing temps, but my ab hurtz. Watching a gnu version of Treasure Island with Eddie Izzard as Long John Silver. It's pretty rad.
If you were ever into Battlestar Galactica, they have a prequel series that I watch part of today while ___ing my paper. Not bad, decent soap-operaish plot, lots of tie ins to the series. The acting kind of sucks, but whatevs.
Caprica? That reminds me, I never finished it.
Durp.
Has pg gotten in touch with you? You should definitely hang out.


camhead


Nov 18, 2012, 6:57 AM
Post #94283 of 103384 (1183 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
camhead wrote:
Staying in tonight by my lonesome while teh dribble swingity swings. Missing way good climbing temps, but my ab hurtz. Watching a gnu version of Treasure Island with Eddie Izzard as Long John Silver. It's pretty rad.
If you were ever into Battlestar Galactica, they have a prequel series that I watch part of today while ___ing my paper. Not bad, decent soap-operaish plot, lots of tie ins to the series. The acting kind of sucks, but whatevs.
Caprica? That reminds me, I never finished it.

We've been geting way into the reboot of Dr. Who. It is the fucking shit, yo. Fo realzies.


granite_grrl


Nov 18, 2012, 8:13 AM
Post #94284 of 103384 (1179 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
Got the jorb, and they're paying me more than advertised! I have the next two weeks off, then I start work which has a great 4 days on three days off schedule. Good for the climbzering and the skiizering.
Sweet deal. 10 hour days or a true short work week?


granite_grrl


Nov 18, 2012, 8:31 AM
Post #94285 of 103384 (1174 views)
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So I went to a friend's house warming party on Friday night. Drank a ton of red wine and stayed over night there. I estimate going to bed around 4am (and I can't remember the last time I stayed up anywhere NEAR that late).

Slept in, friend was mega hung over, I was totally messed up from sleep but felt pretty okay. When I left she was puking and I went and had lunch with friends.

Wandered around Toronto for a while but was pretty messed up and I just wanted to find a place to take a nap at 3pm. Was supposed to go out to dinner with the same friends I had lunch with but we were all tired and didn't really feel like eating so I drove back up to Owen Sound.

Right now I'm trying to get off my ass to go on a bike ride, but that's probably not going to happen.


dr_feelgood


Nov 18, 2012, 1:42 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
So I went to a friend's house warming party on Friday night. Drank a ton of red wine and stayed over night there. I estimate going to bed around 4am (and I can't remember the last time I stayed up anywhere NEAR that late).

Slept in, friend was mega hung over, I was totally messed up from sleep but felt pretty okay. When I left she was puking and I went and had lunch with friends.

Wandered around Toronto for a while but was pretty messed up and I just wanted to find a place to take a nap at 3pm. Was supposed to go out to dinner with the same friends I had lunch with but we were all tired and didn't really feel like eating so I drove back up to Owen Sound.

Right now I'm trying to get off my ass to go on a bike ride, but that's probably not going to happen.
Strong work. And happy b-day.


dr_feelgood


Nov 18, 2012, 1:43 PM
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got out on some ice today. Was pretty sweet. Great temps around freezing, and a bit of snow, but not too cold.


climbingtrash


Nov 18, 2012, 2:23 PM
Post #94288 of 103384 (1157 views)
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Happy Birthday...




climbs4fun
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Nov 18, 2012, 5:08 PM
Post #94289 of 103384 (1145 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
Oh carp. Ewe gheys will prolly notice this in the morning, but drivel is on a drunken facespace posting spree right nau. Gerks everywhere are getting lolcats posted to their wall.

I noticed dribble dribbled over everyone's walls, but not mine. :(

Me neither


carabiner96


Nov 18, 2012, 5:58 PM
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granite_grrl wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Got the jorb, and they're paying me more than advertised! I have the next two weeks off, then I start work which has a great 4 days on three days off schedule. Good for the climbzering and the skiizering.
Sweet deal. 10 hour days or a true short work week?
10 hour days, which is grate, because once you're there 8 what's another 2? It's better than the 14 hour days at Steaux. I'm hourly too, so I'm going to gun for that O-O-O-time.


carabiner96


Nov 19, 2012, 9:00 AM
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Donny, ewe just HAD to friend poppa biner. Clam, Careful with yore junk, my dad has rough hands. Amen!


snoopy138


Nov 19, 2012, 11:09 AM
Post #94292 of 103384 (1101 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
I try not to be sad or to delve to deep into the darkness.

I try to remember the good times, the routes we shared.

I've lost so many friends along the way.

And now two more are gone in the past two days. Both younger than me.

Sometimes the sadness is overwhelming and I want to cry.

damn, sorry to hear about that.


snoopy138


Nov 19, 2012, 11:12 AM
Post #94293 of 103384 (1099 views)
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Re: [climbs4fun] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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climbs4fun wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
since I'll be climbing teh eagle dance tomorrow ... happy bday now, gg.

Should I burst his bubble and tell him that it rained/snowed at Red Rock this morning/last night? He's going to make a long drive for nuttin'

Happy Birthday GG!

eagle dance was dry. no holds broke. did the first 7 pitches, cold front + light rain came in and we rapped off.

spurt climbed on sunday.


dr_feelgood


Nov 19, 2012, 11:38 AM
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carabiner96 wrote:
Donny, ewe just HAD to friend poppa biner. Clam, Careful with yore junk, my dad has rough hands. Amen!
Praise teh lawrd an pass the amm-o-nition!


climbs4fun
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Nov 20, 2012, 9:30 PM
Post #94295 of 103384 (1036 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
since I'll be climbing teh eagle dance tomorrow ... happy bday now, gg.

Should I burst his bubble and tell him that it rained/snowed at Red Rock this morning/last night? He's going to make a long drive for nuttin'

Happy Birthday GG!

eagle dance was dry. no holds broke. did the first 7 pitches, cold front + light rain came in and we rapped off.

spurt climbed on sunday.

yeah, I almost sent a text to see if you were ok on Saturday when I got off work. It was looking pretty dark and nasty, but looked like it was up the higher elevations. Glad it wasn't too bad.


snoopy138


Nov 21, 2012, 9:30 AM
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climbs4fun wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
climbs4fun wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
since I'll be climbing teh eagle dance tomorrow ... happy bday now, gg.

Should I burst his bubble and tell him that it rained/snowed at Red Rock this morning/last night? He's going to make a long drive for nuttin'

Happy Birthday GG!

eagle dance was dry. no holds broke. did the first 7 pitches, cold front + light rain came in and we rapped off.

spurt climbed on sunday.

yeah, I almost sent a text to see if you were ok on Saturday when I got off work. It was looking pretty dark and nasty, but looked like it was up the higher elevations. Glad it wasn't too bad.

it looked pretty dark and shitty most of the day up over the limestone bands higher up oak creke. eventually (around 1 or so) some of that shit came down to the eagle wall (which is a ways up there).


camhead


Nov 21, 2012, 1:51 PM
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Whoops. Took a fall today, only second route of the trip. Called Jack the Ripper, an 11c stemming corner. Pulled one piece, clipped a bulge, and sprained my foot for teh first time ever. Dribble aidzed the climb to finish it, then I hopped out, turning a 10 minute approach into about 45 mins. Definitely wont be climbing for the rest of the trip, will just eat, drink, and {redacted}. Piss. And to top it all off I'm now a 10c climber.


Still, could have been worse. Hopped into the cabin we're staying at, expecting gloriez and sympathy, only to hear that another guy in our crew had taken an even worse fall, hitting his head & going to the ER.


snoopy138


Nov 21, 2012, 2:28 PM
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camhead wrote:
Whoops. Took a fall today, only second route of the trip. Called Jack the Ripper, an 11c stemming corner. Pulled one piece, clipped a bulge, and sprained my foot for teh first time ever. Dribble aidzed the climb to finish it, then I hopped out, turning a 10 minute approach into about 45 mins. Definitely wont be climbing for the rest of the trip, will just eat, drink, and {redacted}. Piss. And to top it all off I'm now a 10c climber.


Still, could have been worse. Hopped into the cabin we're staying at, expecting gloriez and sympathy, only to hear that another guy in our crew had taken an even worse fall, hitting his head & going to the ER.

better load up on terrible jiant croc movies for teh weke.

on the plus side, you can still practice your hangboreding.


camhead


Nov 24, 2012, 7:18 AM
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Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me. I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR


drivel


Nov 24, 2012, 7:36 AM
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camhead wrote:
Ok, here's the full middle-of-the-weke-trip report.

Teh clamhats, Lena'n'Jefe, and several other friends, including two toddlers, two dogs, and another sneaky Russian, rented a cabin at teh Red, about five minutes up the road from LOTA. Many pies were baked, much wine was drank. The Clanderson-minus-Manderson showed up, too.

We climbed teh climbs. Forecast looked beautiful, especially for T-day and the day before; sunny and high of 65 boths days. Team clamhat decided the first day to do some obscure tard gullies that had been on my list for a while. We hiked up to Western Sky Bridge to do the classic 10 fingercarck, called "Return of Geoff Beane." It was cool, not sustained at all, maybe even a bit soft for the grade. Drivel walked it in, then gave me the betaz.

I used less gearz than you, too. Smile

camhead wrote:
Finished warming up on that, and did another approach to Lower Sky Bridge, another obscure tard carg. Short approach, but really steep and muddy. There were two climbs there on our list, an 11+ stemming dihedral called "Jack the Ripper," and a steep 12+ off fingers shallow corner called "Mr. Get it on Jones" (stupid name if you ask me). It looked sweet, just as steep as WTOK, but more faceholds, and not a true splitter, the whole thing was offset and even overlapped by around 6 inches, the actual crack looked mostly fingers, with some .5 camalot sections, but also some salvation handjam pods. Was psyched at the possibility to get a hard tard route done, since my former gloriez of WTOK faded off my 8a.spu "recent ticks" list.

So, started up the stemming corner for a sort of final warmup. Pretty casual for the first half, lots of stances, good gear. The stemming gradually got harder higher up. Got to what looked like the crux; no footholds and no pods in the corner, so I fired in a #2 micronut (only about 4 feet above my last pro, but what the hell, may as well), took a deep breath, spread my legs and trusted the rubber.

It was tenuous elevenuous, but I was feeling pretty good, got about 8-10 feet above the pro, was getting out of the crux, when I just lost my balance a little. Tried to palm back into the corner unsuccesfully, and peeled off. Pulled the #2, the nut down stopped me, but as I decelerated (total fall was probably 35 feet or so), my left foot clipped a little sloping ledge.

Hung there a bit, getting ready to climb back up and get psyched, and the foot started hurting. Hung for a few more minutes, and it started really throbbing, so I had Dribble dirt me. Hit the ground, and could not even put a bit of weight on it. Uh oh, serious injury is serious. Dribble jumped on the rig, sacked up, and aidzed it to get to the anchors and clean all out gear, while I belayed sitting down.

Pretty sure it went.... you fell, I began flipping out and ordering you to the ground, and you were all... gimmmeee a minute.... and then you took off your climbing shoe to be like, umm, I think it's just sprained or something, but maybe I should come down??

and it should also be noted that the reason camhat fell so far was that there *wasnt* any good gears up where he fell. so dribbles got to catch the hiv on soe sketchy shit. but more likely to take my body-weight than somebody else's? at any rate, couldn't risk that same lead fall (and I'm not as good as camhead) with my belayer sitting on the ground with an injured foot.

camhead wrote:
Lowered off, found me a stick-crutch, dribble loaded the bulk of the gear fucking all of the gear, dude, and I hopped down to the car. Took about an hour, with a lot of crawling and butt-sliding. This was one o the shorter approaches at the RRG, and it just made me realize how much an injury at a place like Funk Rock City or even Pebble Beach would suck to hop out on.

Got back to the cabin around 5pm, and I was all ready to hop in, and get sympathy-gloriez from everyone. But when I hopped/hobbled in, the first thing everyone says is "did you hear what happened to teh Russian?"

Turns out that he pulled a Donny and fell from the anchors of a climb (Aquaduct Pocket, which Jakedatc onsighted during his victory Ondra-esque tour a few years ago). He blew a foot, inverted, and meatdecked into a tree, smacking his head and bloodying up his face. Fortunately he was helmeted, but it still knocked him out. My friend belaying him said he thought he was a goner; eyes rolled back in his head, completely unconscious for like 2 whole minutes. When he came to, he started babbling on in Russian, probably saying something like "we need to hack into Jack's laptop NOW!"

They took him to the hospital in Winchester, sewed up his face, gave his head a CAT scan. He got back around 11pm that night, was groggy, but fine. Even went climbing the next day.

I was still immobilized, mostly sat around with my foot elevated, eating food, vitamin I, and drinking beer. Everytime I would get up Dribble would yell at me.

because I thought you'd probably broken the top of your foot.

camhead wrote:
I got really good at hopping around, and one of the toddlers (I'll call him Little Jack, since that was his name) thought it was fun to follow me around, also hopping on one foot.

Had fun T-day. Loaded up on Friday, and figured we should hit the ER in Columbus once we got back home. Went in, weaving in and out of the crackheads, got an X-ray, then the docs started getting more serious. Ordered a CAT scan, then finally came in and told me that I had a Lisfranc injury, which is where a bunch of the tendons and ligaments in your foot get dislocated and torn. Turns out I would have been much better off breaking my foot. Way worse than the sprain I thought it was. Fuck.

Then the doc left, came back with a crew of Med Students. I did not know, but I guess the Doc was planning on showing them my injury and having them guess what it was, but I ruined their GU by blurting out, "hey, I just wikipediaed Lisfranc on my i-yup!" Doc gave me a dirty look for having ruined the learning experience. Woops.

Got splinted up, crutches, script for fun drugs. Not sure if I'll be able to go teach on Monday or not, since I'm supposed to sit around with the leg elevated. Until Monday evening, which is when I guess I'm supposed to go in for surgery, either to get pins put in, or for the tendons to get "fused," whatevah that means.

So, that is awl. Going to be a long time before I can climb again, probably will start a hangbored cycle in a month or so, but it's unlikely if I'll even be able to do any T-wall trips this winter. Also am going to have to teach Dribble how to drive my stickshift truck better. Gargh.

At least the semester is coming to an end, and the biggest work stress is done. Going to just spend the next few months reading a bunch, and probably getting fat and weak.

That is awl.

TLDR


(This post was edited by drivel on Nov 24, 2012, 7:39 AM)

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