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caughtinside
Dec 10, 2012, 9:35 PM
Post #94576 of 105309
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camhead wrote: Hrm, so a pretty strong female climber (whom I believe Chossy hates, but he probably likes her now, since they're both elites, hehe) that I know only tangentially just posted up a write-up of her recent multi-week trip to Jtree. She is pretty solid up to 13+ spurt, and has done some hard tard out here, too (All That Glitters at the RRG, as well as the second ascent of a way hard 13a fingercrack at the NRG). So, I was pretty surprised to read this TR, just reads like any standard 10-11 climber's first trip to Josh. I guess that granite quartz monzonite is not for everyone? Lol. Everyone does the same routes. Jerry Brown is pretty good.
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caughtinside
Dec 10, 2012, 9:35 PM
Post #94577 of 105309
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caughtinside
Dec 10, 2012, 9:37 PM
Post #94578 of 105309
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camhead wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Hrm, so a pretty strong female climber (whom I believe Chossy hates, but he probably likes her now, since they're both elites, hehe) that I know only tangentially just posted up a write-up of her recent multi-week trip to Jtree. She is pretty solid up to 13+ spurt, and has done some hard tard out here, too (All That Glitters at the RRG, as well as the second ascent of a way hard 13a fingercrack at the NRG). So, I was pretty surprised to read this TR, just reads like any standard 10-11 climber's first trip to Josh. I guess that granite quartz monzonite is not for everyone? I mostly like the fact that it is a "splitter tour". in jtree. home of the perfect splitters. i mean, I'm an idiot and all... but aren't a lot of the cracks at Jtree technically splitter cracks? in that they split a face, rather than being in a dihedral/corner? I suppose so, altough a lot (say, Hot Rocks), are kind of insipient seam-type cracks. If splitter = straight in, parallel sided IC lines, there aren't many in Jtree. They are jagged, irregular and poddy. They do 'split a face' but they are the farthest thing from clean splitters.
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caughtinside
Dec 10, 2012, 9:41 PM
Post #94579 of 105309
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Went to the Loaf sunday. Bought a surfboard from a buddy, then we pimped the old projects. Fracture, Taurus, Fingerlocks. A few other odds n' ends. Met a gal who went to grad school with my old roomies new wife. Good times.
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camhead
Dec 10, 2012, 9:59 PM
Post #94580 of 105309
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caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Hrm, so a pretty strong female climber (whom I believe Chossy hates, but he probably likes her now, since they're both elites, hehe) that I know only tangentially just posted up a write-up of her recent multi-week trip to Jtree. She is pretty solid up to 13+ spurt, and has done some hard tard out here, too (All That Glitters at the RRG, as well as the second ascent of a way hard 13a fingercrack at the NRG). So, I was pretty surprised to read this TR, just reads like any standard 10-11 climber's first trip to Josh. I guess that granite quartz monzonite is not for everyone? I mostly like the fact that it is a "splitter tour". in jtree. home of the perfect splitters. i mean, I'm an idiot and all... but aren't a lot of the cracks at Jtree technically splitter cracks? in that they split a face, rather than being in a dihedral/corner? I suppose so, altough a lot (say, Hot Rocks), are kind of insipient seam-type cracks. If splitter = straight in, parallel sided IC lines, there aren't many in Jtree. They are jagged, irregular and poddy. They do 'split a face' but they are the farthest thing from clean splitters. Gnu definition of "splitter"-- you could place a bomber cam blindfolded, based solely on the size of the jam you are hanging off of.
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camhead
Dec 10, 2012, 10:00 PM
Post #94581 of 105309
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In the terrible final papers department: "African Americans fighting in the Civil War had chips on their soldiers."
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snoopy138
Dec 10, 2012, 11:20 PM
Post #94582 of 105309
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Hrm, so a pretty strong female climber (whom I believe Chossy hates, but he probably likes her now, since they're both elites, hehe) that I know only tangentially just posted up a write-up of her recent multi-week trip to Jtree. She is pretty solid up to 13+ spurt, and has done some hard tard out here, too (All That Glitters at the RRG, as well as the second ascent of a way hard 13a fingercrack at the NRG). So, I was pretty surprised to read this TR, just reads like any standard 10-11 climber's first trip to Josh. I guess that granite quartz monzonite is not for everyone? I mostly like the fact that it is a "splitter tour". in jtree. home of the perfect splitters. i mean, I'm an idiot and all... but aren't a lot of the cracks at Jtree technically splitter cracks? in that they split a face, rather than being in a dihedral/corner? I suppose so, altough a lot (say, Hot Rocks), are kind of insipient seam-type cracks. If splitter = straight in, parallel sided IC lines, there aren't many in Jtree. They are jagged, irregular and poddy. They do 'split a face' but they are the farthest thing from clean splitters. Gnu definition of "splitter"-- you could place a bomber cam blindfolded, based solely on the size of the jam you are hanging off of. so there are a shitload of splitter corners at the creek?
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camhead
Dec 10, 2012, 11:43 PM
Post #94583 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: caughtinside wrote: camhead wrote: drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Hrm, so a pretty strong female climber (whom I believe Chossy hates, but he probably likes her now, since they're both elites, hehe) that I know only tangentially just posted up a write-up of her recent multi-week trip to Jtree. She is pretty solid up to 13+ spurt, and has done some hard tard out here, too (All That Glitters at the RRG, as well as the second ascent of a way hard 13a fingercrack at the NRG). So, I was pretty surprised to read this TR, just reads like any standard 10-11 climber's first trip to Josh. I guess that granite quartz monzonite is not for everyone? I mostly like the fact that it is a "splitter tour". in jtree. home of the perfect splitters. i mean, I'm an idiot and all... but aren't a lot of the cracks at Jtree technically splitter cracks? in that they split a face, rather than being in a dihedral/corner? I suppose so, altough a lot (say, Hot Rocks), are kind of insipient seam-type cracks. If splitter = straight in, parallel sided IC lines, there aren't many in Jtree. They are jagged, irregular and poddy. They do 'split a face' but they are the farthest thing from clean splitters. Gnu definition of "splitter"-- you could place a bomber cam blindfolded, based solely on the size of the jam you are hanging off of. so there are a shitload of splitter corners at the creek? There might be a shitload of splitters in your skull next time I see you.
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granite_grrl
Dec 11, 2012, 12:21 AM
Post #94584 of 105309
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drivel wrote: snoopy138 wrote: camhead wrote: Hrm, so a pretty strong female climber (whom I believe Chossy hates, but he probably likes her now, since they're both elites, hehe) that I know only tangentially just posted up a write-up of her recent multi-week trip to Jtree. She is pretty solid up to 13+ spurt, and has done some hard tard out here, too (All That Glitters at the RRG, as well as the second ascent of a way hard 13a fingercrack at the NRG). So, I was pretty surprised to read this TR, just reads like any standard 10-11 climber's first trip to Josh. I guess that granite quartz monzonite is not for everyone? I mostly like the fact that it is a "splitter tour". in jtree. home of the perfect splitters. i mean, I'm an idiot and all... but aren't a lot of the cracks at Jtree technically splitter cracks? in that they split a face, rather than being in a dihedral/corner? People who learned to climb in Ontario don't really understand what a splitter crack really is. If you have to jam your hand once in a crack you're on a crack climb around here.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 11, 2012, 4:37 AM
Post #94585 of 105309
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: teh 2xAsiant made an attempt on my life on Saturday. was out at echo cliffs with her, met up with Big Tony. warmed up and then got on Calm, a pretty fun and fairly steep rowt I'd looked at but never tried. After getting on it later, Tony declared it the most manufactured rowt at Echo ... it would be hard to argue on that. Anyways, after zending on attempt 3, teh asiant was toproping it, and decided to sleaze off to teh right a couple feet. As soon as her foot touches teh choss gully, a small microwave/large toaster oven size block comes out. It hits the slab below (there's about a 30 ft. slab to get to the base of the steep section) and breaks apart. I was able to dodge most of it, and just took piece off the back of the hand. Luckily no noteworthy damage. I told her to stay on rowt. She really needs to stop pussyfooting around and kill you already. What else are we paying her for? THAT's where my money's been going? Unacceptable! Next time, we'll make sure to drop a cow-sized block, instead of the microwave-sized. or maybe just get snoop to climb in Muir, where cows fall from the sky without any effort of double-asiants. Clearly, Lena is unaware of the rule that all falling blocks must be described in relative to a similarly sized kitchen appliance. I would personally vote for one large deep freezer or several kitchenaid stand mixers for the next attempt.
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dr_feelgood
Dec 11, 2012, 4:41 AM
Post #94586 of 105309
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camhead wrote: In the terrible final papers department: "African Americans fighting in the Civil War had chips on their soldiers." At least they did not die in the Hollycost.
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granite_grrl
Dec 11, 2012, 12:45 PM
Post #94587 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: teh 2xAsiant made an attempt on my life on Saturday. was out at echo cliffs with her, met up with Big Tony. warmed up and then got on Calm, a pretty fun and fairly steep rowt I'd looked at but never tried. After getting on it later, Tony declared it the most manufactured rowt at Echo ... it would be hard to argue on that. Anyways, after zending on attempt 3, teh asiant was toproping it, and decided to sleaze off to teh right a couple feet. As soon as her foot touches teh choss gully, a small microwave/large toaster oven size block comes out. It hits the slab below (there's about a 30 ft. slab to get to the base of the steep section) and breaks apart. I was able to dodge most of it, and just took piece off the back of the hand. Luckily no noteworthy damage. I told her to stay on rowt. She really needs to stop pussyfooting around and kill you already. What else are we paying her for? THAT's where my money's been going? Unacceptable! Next time, we'll make sure to drop a cow-sized block, instead of the microwave-sized. or maybe just get snoop to climb in Muir, where cows fall from the sky without any effort of double-asiants. Clearly, Lena is unaware of the rule that all falling blocks must be described in relative to a similarly sized kitchen appliance. I would personally vote for one large deep freezer or several kitchenaid stand mixers for the next attempt. I seem to remember this being explained to her, bet she refuses to say the cow was anything but cow sized.
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camhead
Dec 11, 2012, 2:00 PM
Post #94588 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: teh 2xAsiant made an attempt on my life on Saturday. was out at echo cliffs with her, met up with Big Tony. warmed up and then got on Calm, a pretty fun and fairly steep rowt I'd looked at but never tried. After getting on it later, Tony declared it the most manufactured rowt at Echo ... it would be hard to argue on that. Anyways, after zending on attempt 3, teh asiant was toproping it, and decided to sleaze off to teh right a couple feet. As soon as her foot touches teh choss gully, a small microwave/large toaster oven size block comes out. It hits the slab below (there's about a 30 ft. slab to get to the base of the steep section) and breaks apart. I was able to dodge most of it, and just took piece off the back of the hand. Luckily no noteworthy damage. I told her to stay on rowt. She really needs to stop pussyfooting around and kill you already. What else are we paying her for? THAT's where my money's been going? Unacceptable! Next time, we'll make sure to drop a cow-sized block, instead of the microwave-sized. or maybe just get snoop to climb in Muir, where cows fall from the sky without any effort of double-asiants. Clearly, Lena is unaware of the rule that all falling blocks must be described in relative to a similarly sized kitchen appliance. I would personally vote for one large deep freezer or several kitchenaid stand mixers for the next attempt. I seem to remember this being explained to her, bet she refuses to say the cow was anything but cow sized. It was a small cow, I believe, so it was probably about like a deep freeze. Of course, Lena will always mention the cow, since that's a way better story. The Frenchie in Holy Grail was not throwing ovens at King Arthur, after all.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 11, 2012, 2:41 PM
Post #94589 of 105309
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snoopy138 wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: teh 2xAsiant made an attempt on my life on Saturday. was out at echo cliffs with her, met up with Big Tony. warmed up and then got on Calm, a pretty fun and fairly steep rowt I'd looked at but never tried. After getting on it later, Tony declared it the most manufactured rowt at Echo ... it would be hard to argue on that. Anyways, after zending on attempt 3, teh asiant was toproping it, and decided to sleaze off to teh right a couple feet. As soon as her foot touches teh choss gully, a small microwave/large toaster oven size block comes out. It hits the slab below (there's about a 30 ft. slab to get to the base of the steep section) and breaks apart. I was able to dodge most of it, and just took piece off the back of the hand. Luckily no noteworthy damage. I told her to stay on rowt. She really needs to stop pussyfooting around and kill you already. What else are we paying her for? THAT's where my money's been going? Unacceptable! Next time, we'll make sure to drop a cow-sized block, instead of the microwave-sized. or maybe just get snoop to climb in Muir, where cows fall from the sky without any effort of double-asiants. I don't really understand how a block could be cow-sized. it doesn't matter. It would still squish you.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 11, 2012, 2:45 PM
Post #94590 of 105309
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camhead wrote: In the terrible final papers department: "African Americans fighting in the Civil War had chips on their soldiers." Stellar!
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camhead
Dec 11, 2012, 3:23 PM
Post #94591 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: camhead wrote: In the terrible final papers department: "African Americans fighting in the Civil War had chips on their soldiers." Stellar! Yeah, unaware racism, inappropriate cliche use, and a misspelling, all in one sentence!
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lena_chita
Moderator
Dec 11, 2012, 4:27 PM
Post #94592 of 105309
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Biner, Is that Poppa Biner's comment on the damaged daughter and Festivus Tree on facespace? Nice pic, but WOW!
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caughtinside
Dec 11, 2012, 5:13 PM
Post #94593 of 105309
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dpm gave up and the stash vids are all now free. sweet!
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snoopy138
Dec 11, 2012, 5:23 PM
Post #94594 of 105309
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dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: teh 2xAsiant made an attempt on my life on Saturday. was out at echo cliffs with her, met up with Big Tony. warmed up and then got on Calm, a pretty fun and fairly steep rowt I'd looked at but never tried. After getting on it later, Tony declared it the most manufactured rowt at Echo ... it would be hard to argue on that. Anyways, after zending on attempt 3, teh asiant was toproping it, and decided to sleaze off to teh right a couple feet. As soon as her foot touches teh choss gully, a small microwave/large toaster oven size block comes out. It hits the slab below (there's about a 30 ft. slab to get to the base of the steep section) and breaks apart. I was able to dodge most of it, and just took piece off the back of the hand. Luckily no noteworthy damage. I told her to stay on rowt. She really needs to stop pussyfooting around and kill you already. What else are we paying her for? THAT's where my money's been going? Unacceptable! Next time, we'll make sure to drop a cow-sized block, instead of the microwave-sized. or maybe just get snoop to climb in Muir, where cows fall from the sky without any effort of double-asiants. Clearly, Lena is unaware of the rule guideline that all falling blocks must be described in relative to a similarly sized kitchen appliance. I would personally vote for one large deep freezer or several kitchenaid stand mixers for the next attempt. fixied
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snoopy138
Dec 11, 2012, 5:24 PM
Post #94595 of 105309
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granite_grrl wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: lena_chita wrote: dr_feelgood wrote: snoopy138 wrote: teh 2xAsiant made an attempt on my life on Saturday. was out at echo cliffs with her, met up with Big Tony. warmed up and then got on Calm, a pretty fun and fairly steep rowt I'd looked at but never tried. After getting on it later, Tony declared it the most manufactured rowt at Echo ... it would be hard to argue on that. Anyways, after zending on attempt 3, teh asiant was toproping it, and decided to sleaze off to teh right a couple feet. As soon as her foot touches teh choss gully, a small microwave/large toaster oven size block comes out. It hits the slab below (there's about a 30 ft. slab to get to the base of the steep section) and breaks apart. I was able to dodge most of it, and just took piece off the back of the hand. Luckily no noteworthy damage. I told her to stay on rowt. She really needs to stop pussyfooting around and kill you already. What else are we paying her for? THAT's where my money's been going? Unacceptable! Next time, we'll make sure to drop a cow-sized block, instead of the microwave-sized. or maybe just get snoop to climb in Muir, where cows fall from the sky without any effort of double-asiants. Clearly, Lena is unaware of the rule that all falling blocks must be described in relative to a similarly sized kitchen appliance. I would personally vote for one large deep freezer or several kitchenaid stand mixers for the next attempt. I seem to remember this being explained to her, bet she refuses to say the cow was anything but cow sized. sounds like it was a refrigerator-sized cow?
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carabiner96
Dec 11, 2012, 5:27 PM
Post #94596 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Biner, Is that Poppa Biner's comment on the damaged daughter and Festivus Tree on facespace? Nice pic, but WOW! Yes, his sense of humor, but he was not supposed to post the pic -which is why it was emailed to him in the first place rather than posted- as it is our surprise insert to our Christmas cards to all our freinds. So much for that.
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carabiner96
Dec 11, 2012, 5:30 PM
Post #94597 of 105309
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Speaking of poppa biner, I got a phone call this morning starting with 'This isn't going to be a fight but...' and proceeds to tell me that my 13 year old brother is telling his friends he's an atheist and how it's all my fault and we are all just so disrespectful of his religion and goIng to hell. New low? And no, how could that POSSIBLY not be the start of a fight? Not that it matters, but I never talk about religion with my brothers, because it's boring. Lord forbid the kid gets his own ideas or *gasp* reads something on the Internet.
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camhead
Dec 11, 2012, 6:17 PM
Post #94599 of 105309
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lena_chita wrote: Biner, Is that Poppa Biner's comment on the damaged daughter and Festivus Tree on facespace? Nice pic, but WOW! Where is that? Either I am too slow and it got teh deletez, or facespace's non-existent search function sucks.
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