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dr_feelgood


Aug 23, 2013, 9:24 AM
Post #100576 of 102382 (1292 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25628

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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A pretty sweet TR from marco:
http://www.supertopo.com/....php?articleid=12102


snoopy138


Aug 23, 2013, 9:40 AM
Post #100577 of 102382 (1291 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28648

Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
OK, so I gets home today and I has teh delivered package....

WOHOOO!!!1 I lurve getting packages.

cept, I didn't order anything and it's knot from 5.10.

It wasn't ticking so I fingered it wood be safe to open.

takes note that jak will happily open package of anthrax*


camhead


Aug 23, 2013, 9:47 AM
Post #100578 of 102382 (1286 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20656

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
OK, so I gets home today and I has teh delivered package....

WOHOOO!!!1 I lurve getting packages.

cept, I didn't order anything and it's knot from 5.10.

It wasn't ticking so I fingered it wood be safe to open.

takes note that jak will happily open package of anthrax*




granite_grrl


Aug 23, 2013, 9:48 AM
Post #100579 of 102382 (1286 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14578

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO

Heh! I totally think my parents will call in rescue services one day, when I don't answer the phone.

Last May, the RRGCC BOD posted looking for a Blue Honda, with a specific license plate, please call... People were looking for it everywhere. It was finally found at Miguel's, and Natalie left a note on the windshield to please call Mom.

Apparently some kid didn't call his mother on Mother's day, and she was convinced that he was lying dead somewhere in the gorge, so she contacted every possible entity associated with the gorge, from RRGCC BOD to Miguel's to Slade/Beattiville chamber of commerce...

What a jerk kid, not calling his mom.

When I went on my 3 month trip after university I still called my parents at least once a week to let them know I was doing okay. It was a bit of a pain in the ass because I was using pay phones and a calling card they gave me (no cell phone, roaming charges would have been crazy).

Once a week! That would be reasonable. MY parents want me to call every day. Actually, they would like twice a day, but...

That's where we get into some friction. Every time I go on trips I have to prep them and tell that I will try to call every other day, phone service is spotty, and if they try calling me in the middle of the day, when I am likely to be at the crag, I might not get the call, and even if I hear the phone ring, there are plenty of situations where I just can't pick up the phone.

And yet every time I'll get to where I am in the signal area, and there would be a message ( or 5) from my mom.

You know that Colorado Senator's brother who was found dead after missing in WY earlier this summer? It was at the time when I was in WY. never mind that it was nowhere near or in anyway related. The day he was reported missing in the news, I go to town in the morning, and there are like 15 messages from Mom and Dad, asking me to call home, please. Even though I just spoke to them the day before.

Yeah, I don't talk with my parents that often. Well, I never talk with my dad because all he ever wants to talk about is what kind of engineering experience I'm getting with my jorb, and how could I be working so far away from Nathan.

Last couple of times I've tried to call my mother she's been off galavanting around somewhere. She has my number, she can call me if she needs to.


snoopy138


Aug 23, 2013, 9:49 AM
Post #100580 of 102382 (1285 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28648

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO

Heh! I totally think my parents will call in rescue services one day, when I don't answer the phone.

Last May, the RRGCC BOD posted looking for a Blue Honda, with a specific license plate, please call... People were looking for it everywhere. It was finally found at Miguel's, and Natalie left a note on the windshield to please call Mom.

Apparently some kid didn't call his mother on Mother's day, and she was convinced that he was lying dead somewhere in the gorge, so she contacted every possible entity associated with the gorge, from RRGCC BOD to Miguel's to Slade/Beattiville chamber of commerce...

What a jerk kid, not calling his mom.

When I went on my 3 month trip after university I still called my parents at least once a week to let them know I was doing okay. It was a bit of a pain in the ass because I was using pay phones and a calling card they gave me (no cell phone, roaming charges would have been crazy).
What if his mother is a controlling nutter who he no longer wants to talk to?
<<didn't call his mother on mother's day.

the arrows don't work so well at the bottom of a 12-quote post.


granite_grrl


Aug 23, 2013, 9:51 AM
Post #100581 of 102382 (1284 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14578

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO

Heh! I totally think my parents will call in rescue services one day, when I don't answer the phone.

Last May, the RRGCC BOD posted looking for a Blue Honda, with a specific license plate, please call... People were looking for it everywhere. It was finally found at Miguel's, and Natalie left a note on the windshield to please call Mom.

Apparently some kid didn't call his mother on Mother's day, and she was convinced that he was lying dead somewhere in the gorge, so she contacted every possible entity associated with the gorge, from RRGCC BOD to Miguel's to Slade/Beattiville chamber of commerce...

What a jerk kid, not calling his mom.

When I went on my 3 month trip after university I still called my parents at least once a week to let them know I was doing okay. It was a bit of a pain in the ass because I was using pay phones and a calling card they gave me (no cell phone, roaming charges would have been crazy).
What if his mother is a controlling nutter who he no longer wants to talk to?
<<didn't call his mother on mother's day.

If the mother knew the licence plate number, chances are it wasn't his car. If you're still borrowing you're parent's vehicle, you're probably still young enough that you should be checking in with your mother regularly.


granite_grrl


Aug 23, 2013, 9:55 AM
Post #100582 of 102382 (1283 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14578

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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I've been checking out the photos on here lately. Gawd, there's a lot of crap that gets submited. I did like this photo though:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...heating__122369.html


dr_feelgood


Aug 23, 2013, 10:01 AM
Post #100583 of 102382 (1273 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25628

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO

Heh! I totally think my parents will call in rescue services one day, when I don't answer the phone.

Last May, the RRGCC BOD posted looking for a Blue Honda, with a specific license plate, please call... People were looking for it everywhere. It was finally found at Miguel's, and Natalie left a note on the windshield to please call Mom.

Apparently some kid didn't call his mother on Mother's day, and she was convinced that he was lying dead somewhere in the gorge, so she contacted every possible entity associated with the gorge, from RRGCC BOD to Miguel's to Slade/Beattiville chamber of commerce...

What a jerk kid, not calling his mom.

When I went on my 3 month trip after university I still called my parents at least once a week to let them know I was doing okay. It was a bit of a pain in the ass because I was using pay phones and a calling card they gave me (no cell phone, roaming charges would have been crazy).
What if his mother is a controlling nutter who he no longer wants to talk to?
<<didn't call his mother on mother's day.

the arrows don't work so well at the bottom of a 12-quote post.

You get the general idea.


lena_chita
Moderator

Aug 23, 2013, 10:09 AM
Post #100584 of 102382 (1271 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5463

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace!

O.K., I'll spray.

Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry.

Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste.

We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Angelic

Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?"

I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump.

Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then...

"WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!"

would have been cooler if you jumped.

He makes a good poynte.

Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder.

LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs".

I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump?

Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder.

I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot.

I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month.

The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping...


Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold).

All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction.

I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying.

You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though.

It is awkward *to me*. I am perfectly well aware that drivel could do the move, and couple inches of armspan difference shouldn't make the move impossible to me, either.

That's the whole point of what I am saying. I feel super-awkward, and retardedly uncoordinated on that move. I suck at this kind of move. When I push off with the left foot, it is driving me in the wrong direction, and I end up being farther away from the hold than when I statically reach for it. I haven't yet figured out how to make it go the right way, other than to keep trying.

But it is kind of a pain to keep trying on a popular route, with other people waiting. I was really lucky this past weekend, NOBODY was in line for Apollo. Banz was working on Mercy, and didn't mind a long break between his attempts, bc he was worked from two days of climbing already, and the other guys were on Pod.

It is frustrating bc I don't feel like I am getting any closer to sticking the move with all this trying. Not even a small increment. But it is a route I want, so... back to "keep trying".

I asked Phil, the only guy in the gym, currently, who has climbed the route, to try and set the move for me. He said he'll try. I guess we'll see.

camhead wrote:
More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh.

Heh! I actually think that Banz projects a lot less gayness now, compared to a few years ago. And cutting off all that fake-blond hair mop was a good move. I think he looks cute with short hair and the tiny bit of blond still showing up on top.

Now, a new graduate student rotating through our lab right now -- THAT is the real ghey. He is a cutie, too, in a shy nerdy glasses and striped pink polo shirt kind of way. Don't know if he is out, or not, it isn't something that just comes up in a work conversation, but I would be shocked if he weren't.

I hate to do more micro-beta-managing, but as you push off with your left foot, locking in with your right heel, do you conscously pull in and lock off with your right hand that is in the good horizontal? Finding the right amount of tension in that right arm is key for driving your left hand in the proper direction. Tape up, because that biting constriction in the left end of the horizontal is really key for staying locked in.

Lame climbing day yesterday. High humidity, got on Skylore Engine again. I had one-hung it on Sunday, while shitting myself, so I figured it would go down easily. Rather, got negative regression, and fell like four times. Booo.

Cool video of the rig, though:

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/...513a-new-river-gorge

I also heard a funny story about the route's name. I guess that it's named after a really bad prog-rock band that a big fat park service scientist used to be in. He really wanted to close Endless Wall back in the day, so Porter named the route after him just to give him shit. Then, in the most recent guidebook, Mikey listed the guy as the FA! I guess he is pretty butthurt, but lacks the clout to close any routes anymore, fortunately. heh.

"The best route of it's grade in the country", huh? That's a pretty high endorsement. It does look pretty cool.

And yeah, when I finally get the move, it would have to be a combination of left foot pushing, right arm locking the right way, and my butt ( pardon me, I meant my center of gravity) making the proper trajectory.


lena_chita
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Aug 23, 2013, 10:30 AM
Post #100585 of 102382 (1265 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5463

Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
I've been checking out the photos on here lately. Gawd, there's a lot of crap that gets submited. I did like this photo though:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...heating__122369.html


Yeah, neat!

I have a friend who makes a point of doing photos like this ("holding" large objects, balancing the moon on top of his car, fitting into picture frames, mimicking the sculpture poses, etc.). Some of them are turn out really cool. He just got a bunch from Seattle art Museum.


drivel


Aug 23, 2013, 11:17 AM
Post #100586 of 102382 (1254 views)
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2453

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
drivel wrote:
I assume most of you g3rks have seen this on facespace already, BUT

I have the best weekend spray.

You may now legitimately call me Dr. Ivel.

You know that I've seen it on fb, since you saw my comment, but when did extra gongratulation ever hurt anyone?


GONGRATULATION!!!!Z!!!


extra gongradulations never hurt. :D


drivel


Aug 23, 2013, 11:19 AM
Post #100587 of 102382 (1253 views)
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2453

Re: [camhead] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace!

O.K., I'll spray.

Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry.

Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste.

We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Angelic

Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?"

I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump.

Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then...

"WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!"

would have been cooler if you jumped.

He makes a good poynte.

Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder.

LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs".

I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump?

Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder.

I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot.

I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month.

The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping...


Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold).

All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction.

I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying.

You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though.

More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh.

certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt?

it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish.


drivel


Aug 23, 2013, 11:20 AM
Post #100588 of 102382 (1250 views)
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Posts: 2453

Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO


so, it wasn't dark yet and she was flipping out? how long overdue were you?


drivel


Aug 23, 2013, 11:21 AM
Post #100589 of 102382 (1249 views)
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2453

Re: [tripperjm] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
OK, so I gets home today and I has teh delivered package....

WOHOOO!!!1 I lurve getting packages.

cept, I didn't order anything and it's knot from 5.10.

It wasn't ticking so I fingered it wood be safe to open.

Imagin mi surprise....

and delight.

200' ov Japanese silk bondage rope.

What a great gift....

Nau, I dun't really tell people in teh real world that I'm a freak

and knowbody in teh real world noes my address...

So, I has to finger,

it's won ov ewe gerks that sent me teh gift.

So thanks, I'll put it to gud use.


wuzznt me. woulda zent that shit to my haus.


drivel


Aug 23, 2013, 11:39 AM
Post #100590 of 102382 (1241 views)
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Registered: Apr 22, 2010
Posts: 2453

Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace!

O.K., I'll spray.

Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry.

Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste.

We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Angelic

Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?"

I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump.

Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then...

"WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!"

would have been cooler if you jumped.

He makes a good poynte.

Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder.

LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs".

I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump?

Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder.

I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot.

I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month.

The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping...


Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold).

All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction.

I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying.

You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though.

More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh.

certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt?

it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish.

apparently I'm rong. ohwell.

but yeah. like camhat said, there's not a lot of upper body movement or even pulling in that move, so much as just locking the fuck off w your right hand which is taped so you don't fucking lose it at teh first knuckle, holding on for dear life with your right heel, and pushin with your left foot to rotate your body.

the really hard part for the shorties is releasing the lockoff of your right hand at just the correct moment, so that you can actually reach the hold. taller gerks just have to rotate their bodies.


camhead


Aug 23, 2013, 11:40 AM
Post #100591 of 102382 (1240 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20656

Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace!

O.K., I'll spray.

Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry.

Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste.

We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Angelic

Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?"

I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump.

Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then...

"WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!"

would have been cooler if you jumped.

He makes a good poynte.

Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder.

LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs".

I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump?

Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder.

I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot.

I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month.

The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping...


Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold).

All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction.

I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying.

You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though.

More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh.

certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt?

it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish.

No, she's tawking about the v-slot. When she talks about the "shitty little bump below the v-slot," she's talking about the tiny sidepull/gastons that are RIGHT below it (as in, a couple feet below it).


camhead


Aug 23, 2013, 11:42 AM
Post #100592 of 102382 (1239 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20656

Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Wading into the copy-editor's revisions to my footnotes. Holy shit, it is a miring swamp of cheesetittery in there. I really wish that I could travel back in time and slap myself and my dissertation committee.

At least it's shitty weather out, so I'm not missing anything.


Partner cracklover


Aug 23, 2013, 12:20 PM
Post #100593 of 102382 (1226 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9935

Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO


so, it wasn't dark yet and she was flipping out? how long overdue were you?

Well, it was partly the timing, but more so the fact that a friend of ours just got seriously fuct attempting the route. That, and apparently she got two text messages with no text in 'em. One from a number she didn't have in her phone, and thought maybe was my partner trying to get in touch with her.

And it didn't help that her nerves were all jangled by getting hit by a car (albeit gently) on her way to work that morning.

GO


Partner cracklover


Aug 23, 2013, 12:22 PM
Post #100594 of 102382 (1225 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9935

Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
I've been checking out the photos on here lately. Gawd, there's a lot of crap that gets submited.

Not only the usual garbage, but also the overlords seem to have given up on trying to keep out the spammers, so now every day I have dozens of new photos they've loaded that I have to weed through.

GO


caughtinside


Aug 23, 2013, 12:37 PM
Post #100595 of 102382 (1219 views)
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30323

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO

Heh! I totally think my parents will call in rescue services one day, when I don't answer the phone.

Last May, the RRGCC BOD posted looking for a Blue Honda, with a specific license plate, please call... People were looking for it everywhere. It was finally found at Miguel's, and Natalie left a note on the windshield to please call Mom.

Apparently some kid didn't call his mother on Mother's day, and she was convinced that he was lying dead somewhere in the gorge, so she contacted every possible entity associated with the gorge, from RRGCC BOD to Miguel's to Slade/Beattiville chamber of commerce...

What a jerk kid, not calling his mom.

When I went on my 3 month trip after university I still called my parents at least once a week to let them know I was doing okay. It was a bit of a pain in the ass because I was using pay phones and a calling card they gave me (no cell phone, roaming charges would have been crazy).
What if his mother is a controlling nutter who he no longer wants to talk to?
<<didn't call his mother on mother's day.


I missed one a few years ago when I was in the Creke with Donny. Even tried to call from Monticello. Tried like 4 times with different phones, gave up.

In moab a couple days later, turn my phone on and got a nastygram from my dad. He was pissed, and in no mood to hear #16.


snoopy138


Aug 23, 2013, 12:47 PM
Post #100596 of 102382 (1211 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28648

Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO


so, it wasn't dark yet and she was flipping out? how long overdue were you?

yeah, 7:30 for a backcountry route with a long descent doesn't seem especially late.

I try to tell teh gf to not call any authorities until I'm at least 24 hours overdue.


snoopy138


Aug 23, 2013, 12:50 PM
Post #100597 of 102382 (1209 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
Posts: 28648

Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO

Heh! I totally think my parents will call in rescue services one day, when I don't answer the phone.

Last May, the RRGCC BOD posted looking for a Blue Honda, with a specific license plate, please call... People were looking for it everywhere. It was finally found at Miguel's, and Natalie left a note on the windshield to please call Mom.

Apparently some kid didn't call his mother on Mother's day, and she was convinced that he was lying dead somewhere in the gorge, so she contacted every possible entity associated with the gorge, from RRGCC BOD to Miguel's to Slade/Beattiville chamber of commerce...

What a jerk kid, not calling his mom.

When I went on my 3 month trip after university I still called my parents at least once a week to let them know I was doing okay. It was a bit of a pain in the ass because I was using pay phones and a calling card they gave me (no cell phone, roaming charges would have been crazy).
What if his mother is a controlling nutter who he no longer wants to talk to?
<<didn't call his mother on mother's day.


I missed one a few years ago when I was in the Creke with Donny. Even tried to call from Monticello. Tried like 4 times with different phones, gave up.

In moab a couple days later, turn my phone on and got a nastygram from my dad. He was pissed, and in no mood to hear #16.

I seem to recall there being a bit of reception right at teh shitter, no?


Partner cracklover


Aug 23, 2013, 1:15 PM
Post #100598 of 102382 (1204 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9935

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO

Heh! I totally think my parents will call in rescue services one day, when I don't answer the phone.

Last May, the RRGCC BOD posted looking for a Blue Honda, with a specific license plate, please call... People were looking for it everywhere. It was finally found at Miguel's, and Natalie left a note on the windshield to please call Mom.

Apparently some kid didn't call his mother on Mother's day, and she was convinced that he was lying dead somewhere in the gorge, so she contacted every possible entity associated with the gorge, from RRGCC BOD to Miguel's to Slade/Beattiville chamber of commerce...

What a jerk kid, not calling his mom.

When I went on my 3 month trip after university I still called my parents at least once a week to let them know I was doing okay. It was a bit of a pain in the ass because I was using pay phones and a calling card they gave me (no cell phone, roaming charges would have been crazy).
What if his mother is a controlling nutter who he no longer wants to talk to?
<<didn't call his mother on mother's day.


I missed one a few years ago when I was in the Creke with Donny. Even tried to call from Monticello. Tried like 4 times with different phones, gave up.

In moab a couple days later, turn my phone on and got a nastygram from my dad. He was pissed, and in no mood to hear #16.

I seem to recall there being a bit of reception right at teh shitter, no?

Right up until a year or two, yep. Last few times I've been there, nada.

GO


dr_feelgood


Aug 23, 2013, 1:16 PM
Post #100599 of 102382 (1203 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25628

Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
drivel wrote:
cracklover wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
gonna be a weke end of blorting owt. heading to the stone beer fest on saturday, then sticking around SD to watch the mets-padres game on sunday. teh ABz will be there.

The Bastards! Well say hello from me and ask if I can borrow his drum set.

Drumming kin involve exersize...

might be best to ask if ewe kin borrow his backgammon bord?

Man, I am getting a ton of excercise these days, but the problem is so little of it involves actual rock. I have been doing a ton of
yoga
biking
water skiing
surfing
gym climbing
flag boying

ugh. Not going to make it this weekend either.

You know, it's not that hard to go climbing.

That is true, but the loyerette has arranged a fine Brunch on Sunday. kind of spikes the weekend for climbing.

not really. day trips do exist.

teh gf has a jiant family lunch this sunday. I'll be at teh hole.

Well, sometimes climbing is all about disappointing your loved ones after all.

Or at least scaring the crap out of them. The Diamond went great yesterday, but I wasn't back in cell phone range until like 7:30 yesterday. I knew my cell was working again because on the drive out of the Park, it rings, and my frantic wife is on the phone wondering if I'm dead. Unlike all you gerks, she was relieved that I answered.

GO


so, it wasn't dark yet and she was flipping out? how long overdue were you?

yeah, 7:30 for a backcountry route with a long descent doesn't seem especially late.

I try to tell teh gf to not call any authorities until I'm at least 24 hours overdue.
durp. Not that she listens, but I try to give her a start worrying time and a call SAR time.


lena_chita
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Aug 23, 2013, 1:24 PM
Post #100600 of 102382 (1194 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5463

Re: [drivel] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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drivel wrote:
drivel wrote:
camhead wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
No posts for FOUR DAYS? What a disgrace!

O.K., I'll spray.

Went to the Gnu this weakend. Had a good time and did NOT cry.

Saturday was awesome temps, lightweight long-sleeve weather, low humidity. Climbed at the Other Place with Banz and two of his friends. Camhead bailed on us and went on spider-clearing tour of obscure carcks. No accounting for taste.

We had the place to ourselves all day. Highlight of the day-- sending Tiggers and Airplanes. It's an 11d that I've been on before, a couple of years ago. Onsighted it to the last move back then, then flailed around the last bolt until I determined that there really was no way to do the move other than the dyno. Which I then tried a whole bunch of times and finally stuck once. I dunno if this counts as one attempt or one hundred and forty one, but I only tied in once. Angelic

Anyway, this time around, I got a serious pep talk from Banz: "O.K., Lena, you know you'll have to jump. You know there is no other way to do it. Just freaking go for it, O.K.? Just once, please, can you all-out freaking jump for something?"

I said O.K., tied in, and started climbing. I didn't remember the moves up high, but I definitely remembered that there was nothing good to hold on to, and that I had to jump.

Then Matt and Chad, who were warming up around the corner, walked over. They missed the pep talk from Banz, but Matt knew I wasn't onsighting, so he was giving a blow-by-blow description to Chad, who has never been on the route. "O.k. , kinda hard move right off the ground, then it eases up a lot, rest right before the roof, the roof is just pumpy, but gigantic jugs, and then it is just a big dyno. Right there, she is about to do it... SHIT!" (said in a tone of voice that means, O.K. she is off, she screwed up)... long pause... then...

"WTF just happened? She DIDN'T JUMP! And she didn't fall. WTF? What did she grab? There is nothing there!"

would have been cooler if you jumped.

He makes a good poynte.

Durp. Learning to jump will open up many more new possible routes for you than crimping harder.

LOL, I want to be like that troll who is posting in the technique forums about "how do I climb overhangs".

I wonder if someone can tell me how to jump?

Poor Banz said "just jump, O.K.?", and "just go, now", and " just try" so many times on Apollo, I think the other guys were thinking that it was a loop recorder.

I tried. But I reach higher on the V-slot move if I don't jump then I do if I try to go dynamic. Obviously, I can't reach high enough statically. I have only tried it a 100 times or so, but I did get the point, I NEED to jump. I get it. But every time I try, I end up looking retarded and going into any direction except towards the V-slot.

I guess I will be trying again in a week or two, but I really think it would be helpful if I could replicate the move in the gym, instead of it being 8 bolts high and on a route that I can only get to once a month.

The thing is, there is this really shitty little bump below the V-slot, and I can ALMOST see myself holding it... LOL. No, I know, useless distraction, I need to be thinking about jumping...


Wait, when you say you don't climb dynamically do you mean that you don't dyno or you climb everything static (ie - you won't "pop" for a hold).

All of the above-written long-winded angst is about one specific dyno on Apollo, where I seem to be getting closer to the hold statically than dynamically, because the dynamic move is from a really awkward position and I can't seem to create the momentum that would carry me in the right direction.

I actually DO "pop" to holds pretty regularly. All-out dyno-- not so much, but I am trying.

You keep saying this word, "pop." I do not think it means what you think it means. And, as Dr.Ivel or I can attest, the v-slot move on Apollo is not particularly awkward; the key to momentum on it is all in the left foot. It would be cool to set a simulator porbelm in the gym with it, though.

More random stuff: Spencer was apparently asking Chris about who my "nice gay friend" was. Chris was like, "uhh, that was Dan, you know, the photographer? Then Spencer wondered again is Banz was teh ghey. Heh.

certainly GU'd? but i'm sure she's not talking about the pop to the v slot. Probably talking about the obligatory huck at the 4th bolt?

it's true that it's awkward to set it up. it's also true that NOT hucking makes it v6 or 7 instead of 3ish.

apparently I'm rong. ohwell.

but yeah. like camhat said, there's not a lot of upper body movement or even pulling in that move, so much as just locking the fuck off w your right hand which is taped so you don't fucking lose it at teh first knuckle, holding on for dear life with your right heel, and pushin with your left foot to rotate your body.

the really hard part for the shorties is releasing the lockoff of your right hand at just the correct moment, so that you can actually reach the hold. taller gerks just have to rotate their bodies.

Ah, that makes sense. I do get to within about 2 in of the V-slot by doing just that (locking the shit out of the right arm, pushing with the left foot, and rotating the body-- I call that "going to the hold staticly", even though there is the push from the left leg), but then I am fully and completely stuck with my lockoff being at it's max, elbow digging into the body and the right hand right next to and below the shoulder. I need to be thinking about RELEASING it at the right time. Cool

Seriously, people, I don't think this sort of beta micro-analysis has ever been done in BET. Tongue

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