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dr_feelgood


Oct 21, 2013, 5:23 PM
Post #101251 of 103268 (1671 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
GG- Check out the Lewis And Clark. Kind of a dive, but google maps says they have micros and fridges. It's also five blocks from our place and pretty close to downtown. Seems like you save $10/night compared to the western heritage.

Sweet, but keep in mind that Western also give a discount if you're going to the Ice fest.

Irregardless, we all have CAA (which is AAA, but canadianized, so I'll see if we can get some discounts with that).

Are you planning on driving in or flying in?

Does the fit have AWD?

I think Flying and renting a car.
That makes sense. Some of the rental agencies may not put snow tires on their cars, which could be useful. The road to hyalite is ordinarily maintained pretty well, but if it gets shittered by a storm, it'll take a day. I've rallied up there in 6-10 inches of new snow without too much issue in the taco.

If you do fly, you can mail shit that you don't want to take on the plane but might need. (snowshoes, stoves, etc) My address is in your PM box.

Thanks Doc. I've been pretty busy this weekend so I haven't looked at hotel rooms any more, and Nathan has been away in Wisconsin since last Wednesday so I haven't had a chance to talk stuff over with him.

I should probably define "without too much issue" as involving shovels, pine boughs, a come-a-long and a towstrap.

I'm only now realizing the scale of the area we're looking at. So, it's about an hour from town every day, which sucks a bit, but still less driving than our trip to Alberta last year.

There's Hyalite, but what other areas should I look up? I need to order the book, can get it for $20 from Wolverine (Winter Dance). Shipping to Canada is ~$17 so we'll get it send to Nathan's Mom's and he can pick it up in November when he goes to visit his Dad again.
Hyalite is the main area with a ton of ice and mixed climbing. Its really more like 45 minutes in good weather. The next closest area is Pine Creek, about an hour and a half to the parking lot, with a fair amount of ice and some mixed.
Further out, and more on the mountaineery side of things are the Beartooths and Beehive Basin/Big Sky. Some big classics in the beartooths including California Ice (3000 feet of WI 3/4).
Winter Dance covers them all.
I got a quote of $74/night for a room with one queen bed and a micro and fridge from Lewis and Clark, with no increase for weekends. They said it may go down a bit after they figure out more details with the ice fest folks. Their phone number is 406.586.3341 or 800.332.7666.

What did you think of the hotel? Dive or okay?
It is a classy dive. Historical even.


snoopy138


Oct 21, 2013, 5:31 PM
Post #101252 of 103268 (1668 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
cracklover wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Whafdup bitchez! I'm going climbing all weekend, so I naturally thought of you guys. Will try not to die.

And proud we are of all of you.

I myself am getting out for some tard carcks... first time since Memorial day. Crazy

I will be hitting some tard carcks on the western slope this weekend, myself. Pretty psyched about it, even if it's only a day and a half.

Not so psyched about the fact that my wife's boss, just five days before we were scheduled to fly to Red Rocks, decided that she can't go. I hate that dude with a passion. He's such a damn baby. This was the first climbing trip I've been able to schedule with my wife since she started in this lab, three years ago. She finally, last year, agreed that I could schedule a trip this fall.

Thinking about just taking the time off anyway, and driving to the Creek and hoping to hook up with partners. We'll see...

GO

Stay outta teh Cr33k Green Plate!

Yeah, well I'm not wanted in teh BET either, but when's that stopped me?

I'll be in the Creek from this Thursday through next Weds. If anyone wants to meet up, get in touch before then. I've got no coverage there since I switched to a Sprint carrier.

GO

Quite frankly, none of you are.

She has a point. When one fly is telling another to leave, we've got an infestation.
There isn't enough room on this turd for all of you. Gunna have to fight to the death to see who dies.

Ewe noes, if people wood just keep teh screen door closed...

it seems Camhat and teh greenie are teh biggest violators.

Really? we hadn't noticed.

from teh No Shit department ...


snoopy138


Oct 21, 2013, 5:38 PM
Post #101253 of 103268 (1665 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Can't figure out why I am so freaking tired this week. Unlike gg, I didn't even get home THAT late. Didn't climb on Tue. Set for the bouldering comp on Wed, so some climbing, but not that much. Climbed some Thursday night, and felt like a was moving through molasses. Feeling sore and beat-up today. Ugh!

Food intake maybe?

I haven't been doing much of anything this week. Tuesday was a write off. Could have gone biking or running, but took a long nap when I got home from work instead.

Wednesday I decided to catch up on the run from Tuesday, and tweaked something in my neck about 2km in. Decided that there was no way I was going to be able to do a climbing exercise routine so I better make the most of the run and kept running for another 6km at a crimpled pace.

Yesterday I went to the Chiropractor. Got my neck moving again, though itís still a little sore today. Went for another run but decided that an upper body workout wasnít in my best interest.

This week has been a bit of a mess for me. This weekend is calling for a lot of rain, but hopefully I'll still get out climbing.

This weekend is calling for a lot of red rocks.

Not sure what teh plan is, as far as rowts. We're not doing lev 29 as a grupe of 3, since hamik bailed off to yosemite the moment it was open. so, maybe lev 29, maybe nightcrawler up on brownstone wall, maybe something else.

gud thing we didn't try to do levitation, it was fucking hot in teh sun. did teh trip backwards and went sports climbing on saturday, which meant I got to sleep for a few hours friday night. didn't get on anything hard, but onzent Makalu and Swete Pain. Tried to get on Fear & Loathing at teh end of the day with the sun only sort of off teh rowt, that didn't go so well.

got up early and hiked owt to brownstone wall to do Nightcrawler. Led P2-P4, it was pretty cool. P3 felt harder than the listed 10c, and the stemming had my calves screaming. They are weke from the lack of slab climbing. Watched a team of 3 slowly make their way up Crazy World, some A4 thing over on the Rainbow Wall.


granite_grrl


Oct 21, 2013, 5:58 PM
Post #101254 of 103268 (1652 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14773

Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
GG- Check out the Lewis And Clark. Kind of a dive, but google maps says they have micros and fridges. It's also five blocks from our place and pretty close to downtown. Seems like you save $10/night compared to the western heritage.

Sweet, but keep in mind that Western also give a discount if you're going to the Ice fest.

Irregardless, we all have CAA (which is AAA, but canadianized, so I'll see if we can get some discounts with that).

Are you planning on driving in or flying in?

Does the fit have AWD?

I think Flying and renting a car.
That makes sense. Some of the rental agencies may not put snow tires on their cars, which could be useful. The road to hyalite is ordinarily maintained pretty well, but if it gets shittered by a storm, it'll take a day. I've rallied up there in 6-10 inches of new snow without too much issue in the taco.

If you do fly, you can mail shit that you don't want to take on the plane but might need. (snowshoes, stoves, etc) My address is in your PM box.

Thanks Doc. I've been pretty busy this weekend so I haven't looked at hotel rooms any more, and Nathan has been away in Wisconsin since last Wednesday so I haven't had a chance to talk stuff over with him.

I should probably define "without too much issue" as involving shovels, pine boughs, a come-a-long and a towstrap.

I'm only now realizing the scale of the area we're looking at. So, it's about an hour from town every day, which sucks a bit, but still less driving than our trip to Alberta last year.

There's Hyalite, but what other areas should I look up? I need to order the book, can get it for $20 from Wolverine (Winter Dance). Shipping to Canada is ~$17 so we'll get it send to Nathan's Mom's and he can pick it up in November when he goes to visit his Dad again.
Hyalite is the main area with a ton of ice and mixed climbing. Its really more like 45 minutes in good weather. The next closest area is Pine Creek, about an hour and a half to the parking lot, with a fair amount of ice and some mixed.
Further out, and more on the mountaineery side of things are the Beartooths and Beehive Basin/Big Sky. Some big classics in the beartooths including California Ice (3000 feet of WI 3/4).
Winter Dance covers them all.
I got a quote of $74/night for a room with one queen bed and a micro and fridge from Lewis and Clark, with no increase for weekends. They said it may go down a bit after they figure out more details with the ice fest folks. Their phone number is 406.586.3341 or 800.332.7666.

What did you think of the hotel? Dive or okay?
It is a classy dive. Historical even.

I've been looking online with other hotels. They have some screwy cancelation policies....like Rainbow keeping your 10% deposit if you cancel any time, and you pay for one full night if you cancel within 48 hours. Western Heritage will keep 5% if you cancel at any time if you book online.

We don't even have our plane tickets yet and don't know for sure if we'll need an extra day on either end. It's kinda a bunch of bullshit.


granite_grrl


Oct 21, 2013, 6:00 PM
Post #101255 of 103268 (1652 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Lewis and Clark has no website to book on though, so it may still be a good option. Would still like a decent breakfast (waffles? maybe eggs, not just cereal and crappy pastries). A hot tube would be a plus.


lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2013, 3:57 AM
Post #101256 of 103268 (1626 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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How did we go from "it's too hot" to "it's freezing" with no intermediate stage?


climbingtrash


Oct 22, 2013, 8:29 AM
Post #101257 of 103268 (1611 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
climbingtrash wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Whoo! I love soft colrado grades, I was onsighting tens!

Nice werk!

Other than half-day of bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir (which didn't feel particularly soft, but it may have had something to do with the fact that it was the 4th day of climbing in a row at the end of two-week trip, and in 95F temps) I still have not climbed anywhere in Colorado.

Need to remedy this sometime!

Gerk trip to Rifle next summer?

I wood be in

Ewe knoh it's still a big scene there rite?

And we can only hope we'd cause one uv our own!

We used to do that at teh cr33k to keep teh green plates at bay.


snoopy138


Oct 22, 2013, 8:52 AM
Post #101258 of 103268 (1602 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
How did we go from "it's too hot" to "it's freezing" with no intermediate stage?

huh? It's pretty much perfect temps around here now.


lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2013, 9:16 AM
Post #101259 of 103268 (1593 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
How did we go from "it's too hot" to "it's freezing" with no intermediate stage?

huh? It's pretty much perfect temps around here now.

Thanks for rubbing it in. Fri night is supposed to go down to low of 26 at the Red. A bit TOO early! 53 and partly cloudy is going to be a bit chilly, not because 53 isn't great climbing temps, but bc it is also supposed to be windy. Friction should be good though.


curt


Oct 22, 2013, 10:53 AM
Post #101260 of 103268 (1579 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
How did we go from "it's too hot" to "it's freezing" with no intermediate stage?

Spring and Fall are a myth.

Curt


lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2013, 11:45 AM
Post #101261 of 103268 (1565 views)
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Re: [curt] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
How did we go from "it's too hot" to "it's freezing" with no intermediate stage?

Spring and Fall are a myth.

Curt

but I WANT TO BELIEVE!


dr_feelgood


Oct 22, 2013, 12:09 PM
Post #101262 of 103268 (1556 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
How did we go from "it's too hot" to "it's freezing" with no intermediate stage?

huh? It's pretty much perfect temps around here now.

Thanks for rubbing it in. Fri night is supposed to go down to low of 26 at the Red. A bit TOO early! 53 and partly cloudy is going to be a bit chilly, not because 53 isn't great climbing temps, but bc it is also supposed to be windy. Friction should be good though.

not grate forming temps


caughtinside


Oct 22, 2013, 12:30 PM
Post #101263 of 103268 (1550 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Can't figure out why I am so freaking tired this week. Unlike gg, I didn't even get home THAT late. Didn't climb on Tue. Set for the bouldering comp on Wed, so some climbing, but not that much. Climbed some Thursday night, and felt like a was moving through molasses. Feeling sore and beat-up today. Ugh!

Food intake maybe?

I haven't been doing much of anything this week. Tuesday was a write off. Could have gone biking or running, but took a long nap when I got home from work instead.

Wednesday I decided to catch up on the run from Tuesday, and tweaked something in my neck about 2km in. Decided that there was no way I was going to be able to do a climbing exercise routine so I better make the most of the run and kept running for another 6km at a crimpled pace.

Yesterday I went to the Chiropractor. Got my neck moving again, though itís still a little sore today. Went for another run but decided that an upper body workout wasnít in my best interest.

This week has been a bit of a mess for me. This weekend is calling for a lot of rain, but hopefully I'll still get out climbing.

This weekend is calling for a lot of red rocks.

Not sure what teh plan is, as far as rowts. We're not doing lev 29 as a grupe of 3, since hamik bailed off to yosemite the moment it was open. so, maybe lev 29, maybe nightcrawler up on brownstone wall, maybe something else.

gud thing we didn't try to do levitation, it was fucking hot in teh sun. did teh trip backwards and went sports climbing on saturday, which meant I got to sleep for a few hours friday night. didn't get on anything hard, but onzent Makalu and Swete Pain. Tried to get on Fear & Loathing at teh end of the day with the sun only sort of off teh rowt, that didn't go so well.

got up early and hiked owt to brownstone wall to do Nightcrawler. Led P2-P4, it was pretty cool. P3 felt harder than the listed 10c, and the stemming had my calves screaming. They are weke from the lack of slab climbing. Watched a team of 3 slowly make their way up Crazy World, some A4 thing over on the Rainbow Wall.

Heh. You missed zeke. There is a TR on the taco of him trying levitation.


caughtinside


Oct 22, 2013, 12:31 PM
Post #101264 of 103268 (1547 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Lewis and Clark has no website to book on though, so it may still be a good option. Would still like a decent breakfast (waffles? maybe eggs, not just cereal and crappy pastries). A hot tube would be a plus.

Maybe teh champ can help you out with a hot tube.


granite_grrl


Oct 22, 2013, 1:18 PM
Post #101265 of 103268 (1530 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Lewis and Clark has no website to book on though, so it may still be a good option. Would still like a decent breakfast (waffles? maybe eggs, not just cereal and crappy pastries). A hot tube would be a plus.

Maybe teh champ can help you out with a hot tube.

Unimpressed


lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2013, 1:19 PM
Post #101266 of 103268 (1528 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Lewis and Clark has no website to book on though, so it may still be a good option. Would still like a decent breakfast (waffles? maybe eggs, not just cereal and crappy pastries). A hot tube would be a plus.

Maybe teh champ can help you out with a hot tube.

Unimpressed


I thought it, too. but I restrained myself, and didn't say anything.


granite_grrl


Oct 22, 2013, 2:40 PM
Post #101267 of 103268 (1510 views)
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Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Lewis and Clark has no website to book on though, so it may still be a good option. Would still like a decent breakfast (waffles? maybe eggs, not just cereal and crappy pastries). A hot tube would be a plus.

Maybe teh champ can help you out with a hot tube.

Unimpressed


I thought it, too. but I restrained myself, and didn't say anything.

There are worse things out there than hot tubes.


snoopy138


Oct 22, 2013, 4:29 PM
Post #101268 of 103268 (1488 views)
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Re: [caughtinside] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
Can't figure out why I am so freaking tired this week. Unlike gg, I didn't even get home THAT late. Didn't climb on Tue. Set for the bouldering comp on Wed, so some climbing, but not that much. Climbed some Thursday night, and felt like a was moving through molasses. Feeling sore and beat-up today. Ugh!

Food intake maybe?

I haven't been doing much of anything this week. Tuesday was a write off. Could have gone biking or running, but took a long nap when I got home from work instead.

Wednesday I decided to catch up on the run from Tuesday, and tweaked something in my neck about 2km in. Decided that there was no way I was going to be able to do a climbing exercise routine so I better make the most of the run and kept running for another 6km at a crimpled pace.

Yesterday I went to the Chiropractor. Got my neck moving again, though itís still a little sore today. Went for another run but decided that an upper body workout wasnít in my best interest.

This week has been a bit of a mess for me. This weekend is calling for a lot of rain, but hopefully I'll still get out climbing.

This weekend is calling for a lot of red rocks.

Not sure what teh plan is, as far as rowts. We're not doing lev 29 as a grupe of 3, since hamik bailed off to yosemite the moment it was open. so, maybe lev 29, maybe nightcrawler up on brownstone wall, maybe something else.

gud thing we didn't try to do levitation, it was fucking hot in teh sun. did teh trip backwards and went sports climbing on saturday, which meant I got to sleep for a few hours friday night. didn't get on anything hard, but onzent Makalu and Swete Pain. Tried to get on Fear & Loathing at teh end of the day with the sun only sort of off teh rowt, that didn't go so well.

got up early and hiked owt to brownstone wall to do Nightcrawler. Led P2-P4, it was pretty cool. P3 felt harder than the listed 10c, and the stemming had my calves screaming. They are weke from the lack of slab climbing. Watched a team of 3 slowly make their way up Crazy World, some A4 thing over on the Rainbow Wall.

Heh. You missed zeke. There is a TR on the taco of him trying levitation.

ha, that would have been some funny shit. sounds like it was miserable up there.


dr_feelgood


Oct 22, 2013, 5:18 PM
Post #101269 of 103268 (1476 views)
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Re: [dr_feelgood] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
How did we go from "it's too hot" to "it's freezing" with no intermediate stage?

huh? It's pretty much perfect temps around here now.

Thanks for rubbing it in. Fri night is supposed to go down to low of 26 at the Red. A bit TOO early! 53 and partly cloudy is going to be a bit chilly, not because 53 isn't great climbing temps, but bc it is also supposed to be windy. Friction should be good though.

not grate forming temps
It is nice warm Montana temps though.


lena_chita
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Oct 22, 2013, 5:52 PM
Post #101270 of 103268 (1470 views)
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Re: [granite_grrl] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Lewis and Clark has no website to book on though, so it may still be a good option. Would still like a decent breakfast (waffles? maybe eggs, not just cereal and crappy pastries). A hot tube would be a plus.

Maybe teh champ can help you out with a hot tube.

Unimpressed


I thought it, too. but I restrained myself, and didn't say anything.

There are worse things out there than hot tubes.


For sure. Not having any hot tubes would be one of them.


Partner cracklover


Oct 23, 2013, 10:18 AM
Post #101271 of 103268 (1437 views)
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Creekend report:

The main objective was to do two routes on North Six Shooter. Well, let me back up a bit... My partner had been trying for years to rope a climbing partner into doing a particular route on N6S, and until me, all his partners were smart enough to turn him down. I, on the other hand, saw it as an opportunity. See he wanted to do a climb called Liquid Sky. And there is another climb right next to it called Lightning Bolt Crack. I had been interested in doing the latter, so I agreed to do LS with him, if he'd do LBC with me.

Then I read more about the heinous, infamous, wideness that is Liquid Sky. It seems that Craig Luebben, the master of wide, had backed off it. Hmm... Then I read that if you fall, you "would become hopelessly stuck in a pinch in the roof with no possibility of rescue."

Sounds like fun, right? I'm a pretty little guy. What the hell, let's give 'er a shot.

So anyway, day one we did my route (LBC) as a warmup. I led most of it. Fantastic climb - highly recommended. It even has a little easy squeeze chimney at the top, which I led, since my partner was going to get "the business" of the climb the next day. It went great, and we were able to stash a bunch of gear at the base, saving time and energy for the (repeat) substantial approach the next day.

Well, day two, I flailed on one of the approach pitches (eventually having to aid past a move). And then on "the business," my partner wormed, and he squirmed, but he just couldn't find a way through. Here's a pic of him part way out the monster roof bombay squeeze chimney that is Liquid Sky:



I had an excellent excuse not to take over the lead when he came back to the belay "No point in me going up there, since even if I can get through (which I probably can't since you're the better chimney climber) because if it's too tight for you to follow, we're good and fucked anyway." He bought my excuse (or at least was polite enough to pretend to), and we rapped down.

The rest of the trip I just kind of picked up partners where I could. It didn't work out for me to get on any climbs that pushed me, except for one day. That day I had the chance to get on one I had one-hung a couple times before - Cat Burglar. I got it clean, so that kinda made my trip.

GO


lena_chita
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Oct 23, 2013, 11:33 AM
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Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Creekend report:

The main objective was to do two routes on North Six Shooter. Well, let me back up a bit... My partner had been trying for years to rope a climbing partner into doing a particular route on N6S, and until me, all his partners were smart enough to turn him down. I, on the other hand, saw it as an opportunity. See he wanted to do a climb called Liquid Sky. And there is another climb right next to it called Lightning Bolt Crack. I had been interested in doing the latter, so I agreed to do LS with him, if he'd do LBC with me.

Then I read more about the heinous, infamous, wideness that is Liquid Sky. It seems that Craig Luebben, the master of wide, had backed off it. Hmm... Then I read that if you fall, you "would become hopelessly stuck in a pinch in the roof with no possibility of rescue."

Sounds like fun, right? I'm a pretty little guy. What the hell, let's give 'er a shot.

So anyway, day one we did my route (LBC) as a warmup. I led most of it. Fantastic climb - highly recommended. It even has a little easy squeeze chimney at the top, which I led, since my partner was going to get "the business" of the climb the next day. It went great, and we were able to stash a bunch of gear at the base, saving time and energy for the (repeat) substantial approach the next day.

Well, day two, I flailed on one of the approach pitches (eventually having to aid past a move). And then on "the business," my partner wormed, and he squirmed, but he just couldn't find a way through. Here's a pic of him part way out the monster roof bombay squeeze chimney that is Liquid Sky:

[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/77/11/108397711_large_67ec42.jpg[/image]

I had an excellent excuse not to take over the lead when he came back to the belay "No point in me going up there, since even if I can get through (which I probably can't since you're the better chimney climber) because if it's too tight for you to follow, we're good and fucked anyway." He bought my excuse (or at least was polite enough to pretend to), and we rapped down.

The rest of the trip I just kind of picked up partners where I could. It didn't work out for me to get on any climbs that pushed me, except for one day. That day I had the chance to get on one I had one-hung a couple times before - Cat Burglar. I got it clean, so that kinda made my trip.

GO


Nice pic. (I think I am supposed to say that I am not reading that ^^^ ) And your wife didn't even call in the rescue. Tongue


Partner cracklover


Oct 23, 2013, 12:43 PM
Post #101273 of 103268 (1411 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10000

Re: [lena_chita] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Creekend report:

The main objective was to do two routes on North Six Shooter. Well, let me back up a bit... My partner had been trying for years to rope a climbing partner into doing a particular route on N6S, and until me, all his partners were smart enough to turn him down. I, on the other hand, saw it as an opportunity. See he wanted to do a climb called Liquid Sky. And there is another climb right next to it called Lightning Bolt Crack. I had been interested in doing the latter, so I agreed to do LS with him, if he'd do LBC with me.

Then I read more about the heinous, infamous, wideness that is Liquid Sky. It seems that Craig Luebben, the master of wide, had backed off it. Hmm... Then I read that if you fall, you "would become hopelessly stuck in a pinch in the roof with no possibility of rescue."

Sounds like fun, right? I'm a pretty little guy. What the hell, let's give 'er a shot.

So anyway, day one we did my route (LBC) as a warmup. I led most of it. Fantastic climb - highly recommended. It even has a little easy squeeze chimney at the top, which I led, since my partner was going to get "the business" of the climb the next day. It went great, and we were able to stash a bunch of gear at the base, saving time and energy for the (repeat) substantial approach the next day.

Well, day two, I flailed on one of the approach pitches (eventually having to aid past a move). And then on "the business," my partner wormed, and he squirmed, but he just couldn't find a way through. Here's a pic of him part way out the monster roof bombay squeeze chimney that is Liquid Sky:

[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/77/11/108397711_large_67ec42.jpg[/image]

I had an excellent excuse not to take over the lead when he came back to the belay "No point in me going up there, since even if I can get through (which I probably can't since you're the better chimney climber) because if it's too tight for you to follow, we're good and fucked anyway." He bought my excuse (or at least was polite enough to pretend to), and we rapped down.

The rest of the trip I just kind of picked up partners where I could. It didn't work out for me to get on any climbs that pushed me, except for one day. That day I had the chance to get on one I had one-hung a couple times before - Cat Burglar. I got it clean, so that kinda made my trip.

GO


Nice pic. (I think I am supposed to say that I am not reading that ^^^ ) And your wife didn't even call in the rescue. Tongue

She didn't but only because I asked my partner - when he got cell service (he was only there for the weekend, I was staying for a few more days) - he should let her know we made it out alive.

GO


camhead


Oct 23, 2013, 2:34 PM
Post #101274 of 103268 (1394 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20738

Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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Oh, holy crap, I'm going to this next week. We might not make it out alive.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgViCReM9J8


camhead


Oct 23, 2013, 2:37 PM
Post #101275 of 103268 (1394 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20738

Re: [cracklover] You are not wanted here. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
cracklover wrote:
Creekend report:

The main objective was to do two routes on North Six Shooter. Well, let me back up a bit... My partner had been trying for years to rope a climbing partner into doing a particular route on N6S, and until me, all his partners were smart enough to turn him down. I, on the other hand, saw it as an opportunity. See he wanted to do a climb called Liquid Sky. And there is another climb right next to it called Lightning Bolt Crack. I had been interested in doing the latter, so I agreed to do LS with him, if he'd do LBC with me.

Then I read more about the heinous, infamous, wideness that is Liquid Sky. It seems that Craig Luebben, the master of wide, had backed off it. Hmm... Then I read that if you fall, you "would become hopelessly stuck in a pinch in the roof with no possibility of rescue."

Sounds like fun, right? I'm a pretty little guy. What the hell, let's give 'er a shot.

So anyway, day one we did my route (LBC) as a warmup. I led most of it. Fantastic climb - highly recommended. It even has a little easy squeeze chimney at the top, which I led, since my partner was going to get "the business" of the climb the next day. It went great, and we were able to stash a bunch of gear at the base, saving time and energy for the (repeat) substantial approach the next day.

Well, day two, I flailed on one of the approach pitches (eventually having to aid past a move). And then on "the business," my partner wormed, and he squirmed, but he just couldn't find a way through. Here's a pic of him part way out the monster roof bombay squeeze chimney that is Liquid Sky:

[image]http://www.mountainproject.com/images/77/11/108397711_large_67ec42.jpg[/image]

I had an excellent excuse not to take over the lead when he came back to the belay "No point in me going up there, since even if I can get through (which I probably can't since you're the better chimney climber) because if it's too tight for you to follow, we're good and fucked anyway." He bought my excuse (or at least was polite enough to pretend to), and we rapped down.

The rest of the trip I just kind of picked up partners where I could. It didn't work out for me to get on any climbs that pushed me, except for one day. That day I had the chance to get on one I had one-hung a couple times before - Cat Burglar. I got it clean, so that kinda made my trip.

GO


Nice pic. (I think I am supposed to say that I am not reading that ^^^ ) And your wife didn't even call in the rescue. Tongue

She didn't but only because I asked my partner - when he got cell service (he was only there for the weekend, I was staying for a few more days) - he should let her know we made it out alive.

GO

Nice work on getting on LS, to say that thing has a reputation is an understatement. Strong work on cat burglar too!

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