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camhead


Feb 24, 2014, 6:57 AM
Post #102126 of 102380 (646 views)
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Posts: 20656

Re: [macherry] still lost. [In reply to]
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Trip Report PTFTW!


camhead


Feb 24, 2014, 7:07 AM
Post #102127 of 102380 (643 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
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Re: [snoopy138] still lost. [In reply to]
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So, this past weekend was a little breath of spring in late Feb. Forecast was zero percent chance of rain for both Sat-Sun, high of 60. I even pulled the ol' jackboots out of the back of the closet, and made the rounds at the campground to shake folks down for money. There was only one group that was butthurt about having to pay; I just smiled and told them that the Walmart parking lot was free, if they wanted to go there. Heh.

Climbing was amazing. I've been getting a bit bummed on the Cirque; projecting is really fun, and it is far and away the best carg for cold, wet days (severely overhanging, short approach, all day sun), but I'd hit a wall on the current prodge, felt that I'd done everything else that I could do, and felt that I was actually getting weaker by just projecting.

So it was pretty awesome going to this area called Long Point this weekend. It's out on Lake Summersville; I'd paddled along the cliffline several times and DWS'd some lines in the summer, but when the lake is down in the winter, it's BADASS rope climbing. No trees, blazing sun, and some of the best rock in the area; all ultra-hard, smooth, almost marble-like features with spaced horizontals, tons of hard high step, microcrimp lockoffs, that sort of thing (lots of reachiness; Lena would hate it).

The only drawback is that it is kind of a long approach (45 min-1 hr), and a lot of the crag doesn't come in the sun until mid-day, so climbing in the dead of winter in Dec-Jan isn't really worth it because of the short days. So, late February is ideal. Did this route called "Porter for Recorder," which is literally the best single pitch of 5.11 spurt I've ever done; everything from tiered jugs to bouldery crimps, to a no hands, smeary, sketchy slab near the end. Also a 12b there that is more like 12d that I did not get yesterday, tons of hard cross-overs with weird feet to tiny little holds that you can't even see, since the rock is so white. Even Fred didn't onsite it!

So yeah, Long Point, the shit, and I'm way psyched about getting out and climbing somewhere new, onsighting stuff. It's going to be a good spring, if I can shed the winter blort off; gained about 8 lbs this winter, ugh.

that's awl.


granite_grrl


Feb 24, 2014, 7:08 AM
Post #102128 of 102380 (640 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14578

Re: [macherry] still lost. [In reply to]
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macherry wrote:
the one and only Brent E is in town. worlds collide. hope to stalk him at the ski hill

Skiing huh? He always was multidimentional.


lena_chita
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Feb 24, 2014, 8:37 AM
Post #102129 of 102380 (629 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5462

Re: [camhead] still lost. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
So, this past weekend was a little breath of spring in late Feb. Forecast was zero percent chance of rain for both Sat-Sun, high of 60. I even pulled the ol' jackboots out of the back of the closet, and made the rounds at the campground to shake folks down for money. There was only one group that was butthurt about having to pay; I just smiled and told them that the Walmart parking lot was free, if they wanted to go there. Heh.

Climbing was amazing. I've been getting a bit bummed on the Cirque; projecting is really fun, and it is far and away the best carg for cold, wet days (severely overhanging, short approach, all day sun), but I'd hit a wall on the current prodge, felt that I'd done everything else that I could do, and felt that I was actually getting weaker by just projecting.

So it was pretty awesome going to this area called Long Point this weekend. It's out on Lake Summersville; I'd paddled along the cliffline several times and DWS'd some lines in the summer, but when the lake is down in the winter, it's BADASS rope climbing. No trees, blazing sun, and some of the best rock in the area; all ultra-hard, smooth, almost marble-like features with spaced horizontals, tons of hard high step, microcrimp lockoffs, that sort of thing (lots of reachiness; Lena would hate it).

The only drawback is that it is kind of a long approach (45 min-1 hr), and a lot of the crag doesn't come in the sun until mid-day, so climbing in the dead of winter in Dec-Jan isn't really worth it because of the short days. So, late February is ideal. Did this route called "Porter for Recorder," which is literally the best single pitch of 5.11 spurt I've ever done; everything from tiered jugs to bouldery crimps, to a no hands, smeary, sketchy slab near the end. Also a 12b there that is more like 12d that I did not get yesterday, tons of hard cross-overs with weird feet to tiny little holds that you can't even see, since the rock is so white. Even Fred didn't onsite it!

So yeah, Long Point, the shit, and I'm way psyched about getting out and climbing somewhere new, onsighting stuff. It's going to be a good spring, if I can shed the winter blort off; gained about 8 lbs this winter, ugh.

that's awl.

Being the master of all cheesecakes in a restaurant kinda hurts, huh?

I was looking at the weather forecast and cursing all you local guys, but no luck for me.

Baby Monkey had a comp in Michigan. It was really late in the day on Saturday -- they didn't start the warm-ups until 7 p.m.!!! Whose hare-brained ides was THAT? But, the comp was only 7 miles away from Planter Rock, so we decided to make it a day trip, with some climbing thrown into the mix.

I remember that gym being super-awesome, from couple ABS comps that i have gone to, back in the day. But sowing up there on a regular Saturday, I was, quite frankly, underwhelmed by the quality of the routes. I actually think we have WAY better route-setters at CRG now. It kinda helps that there is this guy who used to manage a gym in Cinci, who is a really prolific setter...

But anyway, Planet Rock (we didn't rope-climb bc Heffe didn't even bring a harness... I guess he wanted zero percent chance that I would like to lead climb).

Add kinda meh boulder problems that were chalked up and rubber-coated to hell, huge crowds of gumbies who insisted on standing right underneath climbers, a bunch of birthday kids thundering through cave passages on their way to rope bridge, a ton of torn foam pieces of the floor, and a ton of chalk dust in the air, and you get a really-not-that-great experience.

I suppose I was additionally bummed because my finger is not getting better, and I might actually take a few weeks off, instead of campusing, which I am supposed to be doing right now... but all in all, rather disappointing.

Baby Monkey comp went really late (but it was a huge regional meet, and there were girls from ~level 8-9 competing at the same time, so it was entertaining to watch). And then we made it home at oh-late-30. Feels like the weekend went away super-fast.


Partner cracklover


Feb 24, 2014, 9:50 AM
Post #102130 of 102380 (623 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9935

Re: [lena_chita] still lost. [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
So, this past weekend was a little breath of spring in late Feb. Forecast was zero percent chance of rain for both Sat-Sun, high of 60. I even pulled the ol' jackboots out of the back of the closet, and made the rounds at the campground to shake folks down for money. There was only one group that was butthurt about having to pay; I just smiled and told them that the Walmart parking lot was free, if they wanted to go there. Heh.

Climbing was amazing. I've been getting a bit bummed on the Cirque; projecting is really fun, and it is far and away the best carg for cold, wet days (severely overhanging, short approach, all day sun), but I'd hit a wall on the current prodge, felt that I'd done everything else that I could do, and felt that I was actually getting weaker by just projecting.

So it was pretty awesome going to this area called Long Point this weekend. It's out on Lake Summersville; I'd paddled along the cliffline several times and DWS'd some lines in the summer, but when the lake is down in the winter, it's BADASS rope climbing. No trees, blazing sun, and some of the best rock in the area; all ultra-hard, smooth, almost marble-like features with spaced horizontals, tons of hard high step, microcrimp lockoffs, that sort of thing (lots of reachiness; Lena would hate it).

The only drawback is that it is kind of a long approach (45 min-1 hr), and a lot of the crag doesn't come in the sun until mid-day, so climbing in the dead of winter in Dec-Jan isn't really worth it because of the short days. So, late February is ideal. Did this route called "Porter for Recorder," which is literally the best single pitch of 5.11 spurt I've ever done; everything from tiered jugs to bouldery crimps, to a no hands, smeary, sketchy slab near the end. Also a 12b there that is more like 12d that I did not get yesterday, tons of hard cross-overs with weird feet to tiny little holds that you can't even see, since the rock is so white. Even Fred didn't onsite it!

So yeah, Long Point, the shit, and I'm way psyched about getting out and climbing somewhere new, onsighting stuff. It's going to be a good spring, if I can shed the winter blort off; gained about 8 lbs this winter, ugh.

that's awl.

Being the master of all cheesecakes in a restaurant kinda hurts, huh?

I was looking at the weather forecast and cursing all you local guys, but no luck for me.

Baby Monkey had a comp in Michigan. It was really late in the day on Saturday -- they didn't start the warm-ups until 7 p.m.!!! Whose hare-brained ides was THAT? But, the comp was only 7 miles away from Planter Rock, so we decided to make it a day trip, with some climbing thrown into the mix.

I remember that gym being super-awesome, from couple ABS comps that i have gone to, back in the day. But sowing up there on a regular Saturday, I was, quite frankly, underwhelmed by the quality of the routes. I actually think we have WAY better route-setters at CRG now. It kinda helps that there is this guy who used to manage a gym in Cinci, who is a really prolific setter...

But anyway, Planet Rock (we didn't rope-climb bc Heffe didn't even bring a harness... I guess he wanted zero percent chance that I would like to lead climb).

Add kinda meh boulder problems that were chalked up and rubber-coated to hell, huge crowds of gumbies who insisted on standing right underneath climbers, a bunch of birthday kids thundering through cave passages on their way to rope bridge, a ton of torn foam pieces of the floor, and a ton of chalk dust in the air, and you get a really-not-that-great experience.

I suppose I was additionally bummed because my finger is not getting better, and I might actually take a few weeks off, instead of campusing, which I am supposed to be doing right now... but all in all, rather disappointing.

Baby Monkey comp went really late (but it was a huge regional meet, and there were girls from ~level 8-9 competing at the same time, so it was entertaining to watch). And then we made it home at oh-late-30. Feels like the weekend went away super-fast.

A comp on old used boulder problems? That's really lame.

My weekend report is short and sweet.

Went to Shelf Rd for two days. Saturday I got the new route I bolted last time fully cleaned and sent. It's pretty good. Boulder problem with bolt two at your waist, then continuous steep technical climbing to the top. I also spent some time toproping and working out a line right next to it that I want to put in. I was worried the direct line through the steepest part of the bulge would not go, but it turned out to have just enough features. Can't wait to go back and get it. It's just at the edge (or possibly a tiny bit beyond) my current ability. Really really psyched on it.

Sunday I was feeling a bit beat up, but managed to redpoint a couple of worthwhile lines. Highlight of my day though was belaying Allison who had by far her best go on her project. One hang on lead near the end of the crux, which I think is better than I'd ever seen her do on TR. Super psyched for her. If/when she sends it, it'll be her first 12a. Big milestone for her.

GO


lena_chita
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Feb 24, 2014, 10:18 AM
Post #102131 of 102380 (613 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5462

Re: [cracklover] still lost. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
So, this past weekend was a little breath of spring in late Feb. Forecast was zero percent chance of rain for both Sat-Sun, high of 60. I even pulled the ol' jackboots out of the back of the closet, and made the rounds at the campground to shake folks down for money. There was only one group that was butthurt about having to pay; I just smiled and told them that the Walmart parking lot was free, if they wanted to go there. Heh.

Climbing was amazing. I've been getting a bit bummed on the Cirque; projecting is really fun, and it is far and away the best carg for cold, wet days (severely overhanging, short approach, all day sun), but I'd hit a wall on the current prodge, felt that I'd done everything else that I could do, and felt that I was actually getting weaker by just projecting.

So it was pretty awesome going to this area called Long Point this weekend. It's out on Lake Summersville; I'd paddled along the cliffline several times and DWS'd some lines in the summer, but when the lake is down in the winter, it's BADASS rope climbing. No trees, blazing sun, and some of the best rock in the area; all ultra-hard, smooth, almost marble-like features with spaced horizontals, tons of hard high step, microcrimp lockoffs, that sort of thing (lots of reachiness; Lena would hate it).

The only drawback is that it is kind of a long approach (45 min-1 hr), and a lot of the crag doesn't come in the sun until mid-day, so climbing in the dead of winter in Dec-Jan isn't really worth it because of the short days. So, late February is ideal. Did this route called "Porter for Recorder," which is literally the best single pitch of 5.11 spurt I've ever done; everything from tiered jugs to bouldery crimps, to a no hands, smeary, sketchy slab near the end. Also a 12b there that is more like 12d that I did not get yesterday, tons of hard cross-overs with weird feet to tiny little holds that you can't even see, since the rock is so white. Even Fred didn't onsite it!

So yeah, Long Point, the shit, and I'm way psyched about getting out and climbing somewhere new, onsighting stuff. It's going to be a good spring, if I can shed the winter blort off; gained about 8 lbs this winter, ugh.

that's awl.

Being the master of all cheesecakes in a restaurant kinda hurts, huh?

I was looking at the weather forecast and cursing all you local guys, but no luck for me.

Baby Monkey had a comp in Michigan. It was really late in the day on Saturday -- they didn't start the warm-ups until 7 p.m.!!! Whose hare-brained ides was THAT? But, the comp was only 7 miles away from Planter Rock, so we decided to make it a day trip, with some climbing thrown into the mix.

I remember that gym being super-awesome, from couple ABS comps that i have gone to, back in the day. But sowing up there on a regular Saturday, I was, quite frankly, underwhelmed by the quality of the routes. I actually think we have WAY better route-setters at CRG now. It kinda helps that there is this guy who used to manage a gym in Cinci, who is a really prolific setter...

But anyway, Planet Rock (we didn't rope-climb bc Heffe didn't even bring a harness... I guess he wanted zero percent chance that I would like to lead climb).

Add kinda meh boulder problems that were chalked up and rubber-coated to hell, huge crowds of gumbies who insisted on standing right underneath climbers, a bunch of birthday kids thundering through cave passages on their way to rope bridge, a ton of torn foam pieces of the floor, and a ton of chalk dust in the air, and you get a really-not-that-great experience.

I suppose I was additionally bummed because my finger is not getting better, and I might actually take a few weeks off, instead of campusing, which I am supposed to be doing right now... but all in all, rather disappointing.

Baby Monkey comp went really late (but it was a huge regional meet, and there were girls from ~level 8-9 competing at the same time, so it was entertaining to watch). And then we made it home at oh-late-30. Feels like the weekend went away super-fast.

A comp on old used boulder problems? That's really lame.

Um, no, you are confuzzled. Planet Rock was just old yucky dirty problems and crowds, no comps.

Baby Monkey was doing a gymnastics meet, not a climbing comp. Her meet was the reason why we were in Michigan in the first place. Planet Rock was supposed to be just a bonus, since we were in the vicinity, and had time for it. But it ended up being a bonus of questionable quality.

cracklover wrote:
My weekend report is short and sweet.

Went to Shelf Rd for two days. Saturday I got the new route I bolted last time fully cleaned and sent. It's pretty good. Boulder problem with bolt two at your waist, then continuous steep technical climbing to the top. I also spent some time toproping and working out a line right next to it that I want to put in. I was worried the direct line through the steepest part of the bulge would not go, but it turned out to have just enough features. Can't wait to go back and get it. It's just at the edge (or possibly a tiny bit beyond) my current ability. Really really psyched on it.

Sunday I was feeling a bit beat up, but managed to redpoint a couple of worthwhile lines. Highlight of my day though was belaying Allison who had by far her best go on her project. One hang on lead near the end of the crux, which I think is better than I'd ever seen her do on TR. Super psyched for her. If/when she sends it, it'll be her first 12a. Big milestone for her.

GO

Nice. I want to touch real rock! That would be a milestone.


carabiner96


Feb 24, 2014, 12:51 PM
Post #102132 of 102380 (606 views)
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Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 12509

Re: [cracklover] still lost. [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
So, this past weekend was a little breath of spring in late Feb. Forecast was zero percent chance of rain for both Sat-Sun, high of 60. I even pulled the ol' jackboots out of the back of the closet, and made the rounds at the campground to shake folks down for money. There was only one group that was butthurt about having to pay; I just smiled and told them that the Walmart parking lot was free, if they wanted to go there. Heh.

Climbing was amazing. I've been getting a bit bummed on the Cirque; projecting is really fun, and it is far and away the best carg for cold, wet days (severely overhanging, short approach, all day sun), but I'd hit a wall on the current prodge, felt that I'd done everything else that I could do, and felt that I was actually getting weaker by just projecting.

So it was pretty awesome going to this area called Long Point this weekend. It's out on Lake Summersville; I'd paddled along the cliffline several times and DWS'd some lines in the summer, but when the lake is down in the winter, it's BADASS rope climbing. No trees, blazing sun, and some of the best rock in the area; all ultra-hard, smooth, almost marble-like features with spaced horizontals, tons of hard high step, microcrimp lockoffs, that sort of thing (lots of reachiness; Lena would hate it).

The only drawback is that it is kind of a long approach (45 min-1 hr), and a lot of the crag doesn't come in the sun until mid-day, so climbing in the dead of winter in Dec-Jan isn't really worth it because of the short days. So, late February is ideal. Did this route called "Porter for Recorder," which is literally the best single pitch of 5.11 spurt I've ever done; everything from tiered jugs to bouldery crimps, to a no hands, smeary, sketchy slab near the end. Also a 12b there that is more like 12d that I did not get yesterday, tons of hard cross-overs with weird feet to tiny little holds that you can't even see, since the rock is so white. Even Fred didn't onsite it!

So yeah, Long Point, the shit, and I'm way psyched about getting out and climbing somewhere new, onsighting stuff. It's going to be a good spring, if I can shed the winter blort off; gained about 8 lbs this winter, ugh.

that's awl.

Being the master of all cheesecakes in a restaurant kinda hurts, huh?

I was looking at the weather forecast and cursing all you local guys, but no luck for me.

Baby Monkey had a comp in Michigan. It was really late in the day on Saturday -- they didn't start the warm-ups until 7 p.m.!!! Whose hare-brained ides was THAT? But, the comp was only 7 miles away from Planter Rock, so we decided to make it a day trip, with some climbing thrown into the mix.

I remember that gym being super-awesome, from couple ABS comps that i have gone to, back in the day. But sowing up there on a regular Saturday, I was, quite frankly, underwhelmed by the quality of the routes. I actually think we have WAY better route-setters at CRG now. It kinda helps that there is this guy who used to manage a gym in Cinci, who is a really prolific setter...

But anyway, Planet Rock (we didn't rope-climb bc Heffe didn't even bring a harness... I guess he wanted zero percent chance that I would like to lead climb).

Add kinda meh boulder problems that were chalked up and rubber-coated to hell, huge crowds of gumbies who insisted on standing right underneath climbers, a bunch of birthday kids thundering through cave passages on their way to rope bridge, a ton of torn foam pieces of the floor, and a ton of chalk dust in the air, and you get a really-not-that-great experience.

I suppose I was additionally bummed because my finger is not getting better, and I might actually take a few weeks off, instead of campusing, which I am supposed to be doing right now... but all in all, rather disappointing.

Baby Monkey comp went really late (but it was a huge regional meet, and there were girls from ~level 8-9 competing at the same time, so it was entertaining to watch). And then we made it home at oh-late-30. Feels like the weekend went away super-fast.

A comp on old used boulder problems? That's really lame.

My weekend report is short and sweet.

Went to Shelf Rd for two days. Saturday I got the new route I bolted last time fully cleaned and sent. It's pretty good. Boulder problem with bolt two at your waist, then continuous steep technical climbing to the top. I also spent some time toproping and working out a line right next to it that I want to put in. I was worried the direct line through the steepest part of the bulge would not go, but it turned out to have just enough features. Can't wait to go back and get it. It's just at the edge (or possibly a tiny bit beyond) my current ability. Really really psyched on it.

Sunday I was feeling a bit beat up, but managed to redpoint a couple of worthwhile lines. Highlight of my day though was belaying Allison who had by far her best go on her project. One hang on lead near the end of the crux, which I think is better than I'd ever seen her do on TR. Super psyched for her. If/when she sends it, it'll be her first 12a. Big milestone for her.

GO
you failed to mention that you have officially been bail binered. Glad A got the most out of it!

Saturday involved too much booze, injuries, homeless guys and missing underwear to even think about climbing on Sunday.


dr_feelgood


Feb 24, 2014, 1:36 PM
Post #102133 of 102380 (599 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25627

Re: [camhead] still lost. [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
epoch wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
camhead wrote:
Sooo, it happened Finally went ice climbing. Was pretty fun, we went to some toprope area in the Catskills. I got the swingity swing and foot placement down pretty quickly; it was fun, like 5.9 handcarck fun. Didn't even really get the screaming barfies that bad. The only drawback was that my boots were a tiny bit small, and I had not clipped my toenails for a while. I guess that the constant kicking like shoved my toenails back into my toes. When my feet finally thawed out on the drive back, it was pretty excuciating pain.

Still, gud thymes. If I wind up in a winter area, or even at the NRG again next year, I'l prolly buy some gearz.

Oh, and the most awesome warm drink for winter climbing I found it chicken broth with cayenne pepper in it chased by bourbon.
Ewe drove from West Virginny to the Catskills to toprope?

And 1/2 brandy mixed with 1/2 kahlua= heating oil #9.

kamhed can't even change a toner cartridge, you think he should be placing ice screws?

most definitely.

I actually placed a few screws on mock lead (ha!). I could see moderate multipitches up ice gullies as being really fun.

I'll try Doc's Heating Oil #9, too.

Ice gullies are fun.

Got back from Cody last night. It was buttfucking cold, and they got winter stormed while we were down there. Bailed on two separate approaches yesterday due to a nasty wind slab on the climbs.


dr_feelgood


Feb 24, 2014, 1:38 PM
Post #102134 of 102380 (598 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25627

Re: [carabiner96] still lost. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
cracklover wrote:
lena_chita wrote:
camhead wrote:
So, this past weekend was a little breath of spring in late Feb. Forecast was zero percent chance of rain for both Sat-Sun, high of 60. I even pulled the ol' jackboots out of the back of the closet, and made the rounds at the campground to shake folks down for money. There was only one group that was butthurt about having to pay; I just smiled and told them that the Walmart parking lot was free, if they wanted to go there. Heh.

Climbing was amazing. I've been getting a bit bummed on the Cirque; projecting is really fun, and it is far and away the best carg for cold, wet days (severely overhanging, short approach, all day sun), but I'd hit a wall on the current prodge, felt that I'd done everything else that I could do, and felt that I was actually getting weaker by just projecting.

So it was pretty awesome going to this area called Long Point this weekend. It's out on Lake Summersville; I'd paddled along the cliffline several times and DWS'd some lines in the summer, but when the lake is down in the winter, it's BADASS rope climbing. No trees, blazing sun, and some of the best rock in the area; all ultra-hard, smooth, almost marble-like features with spaced horizontals, tons of hard high step, microcrimp lockoffs, that sort of thing (lots of reachiness; Lena would hate it).

The only drawback is that it is kind of a long approach (45 min-1 hr), and a lot of the crag doesn't come in the sun until mid-day, so climbing in the dead of winter in Dec-Jan isn't really worth it because of the short days. So, late February is ideal. Did this route called "Porter for Recorder," which is literally the best single pitch of 5.11 spurt I've ever done; everything from tiered jugs to bouldery crimps, to a no hands, smeary, sketchy slab near the end. Also a 12b there that is more like 12d that I did not get yesterday, tons of hard cross-overs with weird feet to tiny little holds that you can't even see, since the rock is so white. Even Fred didn't onsite it!

So yeah, Long Point, the shit, and I'm way psyched about getting out and climbing somewhere new, onsighting stuff. It's going to be a good spring, if I can shed the winter blort off; gained about 8 lbs this winter, ugh.

that's awl.

Being the master of all cheesecakes in a restaurant kinda hurts, huh?

I was looking at the weather forecast and cursing all you local guys, but no luck for me.

Baby Monkey had a comp in Michigan. It was really late in the day on Saturday -- they didn't start the warm-ups until 7 p.m.!!! Whose hare-brained ides was THAT? But, the comp was only 7 miles away from Planter Rock, so we decided to make it a day trip, with some climbing thrown into the mix.

I remember that gym being super-awesome, from couple ABS comps that i have gone to, back in the day. But sowing up there on a regular Saturday, I was, quite frankly, underwhelmed by the quality of the routes. I actually think we have WAY better route-setters at CRG now. It kinda helps that there is this guy who used to manage a gym in Cinci, who is a really prolific setter...

But anyway, Planet Rock (we didn't rope-climb bc Heffe didn't even bring a harness... I guess he wanted zero percent chance that I would like to lead climb).

Add kinda meh boulder problems that were chalked up and rubber-coated to hell, huge crowds of gumbies who insisted on standing right underneath climbers, a bunch of birthday kids thundering through cave passages on their way to rope bridge, a ton of torn foam pieces of the floor, and a ton of chalk dust in the air, and you get a really-not-that-great experience.

I suppose I was additionally bummed because my finger is not getting better, and I might actually take a few weeks off, instead of campusing, which I am supposed to be doing right now... but all in all, rather disappointing.

Baby Monkey comp went really late (but it was a huge regional meet, and there were girls from ~level 8-9 competing at the same time, so it was entertaining to watch). And then we made it home at oh-late-30. Feels like the weekend went away super-fast.

A comp on old used boulder problems? That's really lame.

My weekend report is short and sweet.

Went to Shelf Rd for two days. Saturday I got the new route I bolted last time fully cleaned and sent. It's pretty good. Boulder problem with bolt two at your waist, then continuous steep technical climbing to the top. I also spent some time toproping and working out a line right next to it that I want to put in. I was worried the direct line through the steepest part of the bulge would not go, but it turned out to have just enough features. Can't wait to go back and get it. It's just at the edge (or possibly a tiny bit beyond) my current ability. Really really psyched on it.

Sunday I was feeling a bit beat up, but managed to redpoint a couple of worthwhile lines. Highlight of my day though was belaying Allison who had by far her best go on her project. One hang on lead near the end of the crux, which I think is better than I'd ever seen her do on TR. Super psyched for her. If/when she sends it, it'll be her first 12a. Big milestone for her.

GO
you failed to mention that you have officially been bail binered. Glad A got the most out of it!

Saturday involved too much booze, injuries, homeless guys and missing underwear to even think about climbing on Sunday.
The more things change, the more they stay the same...


tripperjm


Feb 24, 2014, 3:55 PM
Post #102135 of 102380 (580 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] still lost. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
found a love letter on my windshield sun...

Why???

Why does teh man has to sweat my balls?

damn! That sucks. Lost crag?

Well luckly, knot so much like a ass reaming, more like a peck on the cheek.... just so eye noes that he noes.

tyme to double down

ewe has a picture of teh note?

sighs... thinking to self. whut do eye kneed with a pic, eye has teh original

Looks just like a ticket with a hand written note on teh back telling me knot to obstruct teh (fire?) gate. He went awl out though, ran my plate, it has my name address and age on teh ticket. fuking tools. Funny thing is, it's knot really a fire rode, more like a trail. Ewe would has to cut back a lot, to get a truck up there. And even if it were cleared teh rode only goes 150 feet before it ends.

Anyways,

it's been a little cat and mouse on teh hill lately, cept teh cat has better tools than me... a helicopter.

Been sweeping spots and leaving a branch hear and there that would have to be disturbed to pass by. Somebody has been walking up that rode and looking down the canyon while we've been lost. Tool?

So this past weekend, I'm up high and awl ov teh sudden, owt ov nowhere this county sheriff helicopter pops over teh ridge a thousand yards away, turns and parks it 50 feet behind me at eye level. I sit down on teh cord and turn around and stare at 'em. He scopes me for less than a minute, then turns and flies oft. Didn't sea 'em again awl day.

weird.

I kinda expected to be met on teh trail or back at teh rig. Didn't sea anywon. went back next day, no problems.

In other newz,

C-ya finger owt teh move when ewe were in texass and trpoynted this past weekend. I ganked teh cord so nau she on two redsite. Ifs eye has teh aircraft carrier, i'd put up a banner that says Mission Acomplished.... Well there is a couple ov things that kneed to be fixed up but it's kinda a dun deal. Untill sum fast fuker, who kan't push away from teh dinner table or due a few situps cums along a breaks it.

We were calling it sumthin else but for multible reason and meanings.... we called it Jamzilla, aka teh gnu warm up.

It's thing ov beauty, eye gets a boner every tyme eye look at it.... though sadly their iz won spot ewe kin shuffle, coodn't due anything about it.

looks at bare rist


tripperjm


Feb 24, 2014, 4:06 PM
Post #102136 of 102380 (577 views)
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
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Re: [tripperjm] still lost. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
found a love letter on my windshield sun...

Why???

Why does teh man has to sweat my balls?

damn! That sucks. Lost crag?

Well luckly, knot so much like a ass reaming, more like a peck on the cheek.... just so eye noes that he noes.

tyme to double down

ewe has a picture of teh note?

sighs... thinking to self. whut do eye kneed with a pic, eye has teh original

Looks just like a ticket with a hand written note on teh back telling me knot to obstruct teh (fire?) gate. He went awl out though, ran my plate, it has my name address and age on teh ticket. fuking tools. Funny thing is, it's knot really a fire rode, more like a trail. Ewe would has to cut back a lot, to get a truck up there. And even if it were cleared teh rode only goes 150 feet before it ends.

Anyways,

it's been a little cat and mouse on teh hill lately, cept teh cat has better tools than me... a helicopter.

Been sweeping spots and leaving a branch hear and there that would have to be disturbed to pass by. Somebody has been walking up that rode and looking down the canyon while we've been lost. Tool?

So this past weekend, I'm up high and awl ov teh sudden, owt ov nowhere this county sheriff helicopter pops over teh ridge a thousand yards away, turns and parks it 50 feet behind me at eye level. I sit down on teh cord and turn around and stare at 'em. He scopes me for less than a minute, then turns and flies oft. Didn't sea 'em again awl day.

weird.

I kinda expected to be met on teh trail or back at teh rig. Didn't sea anywon. went back next day, no problems.

In other newz,

C-ya finger owt teh move when ewe were in texass and trpoynted this past weekend. I ganked teh cord so nau she on two redsite. Ifs eye has teh aircraft carrier, i'd put up a banner that says Mission Acomplished.... Well there is a couple ov things that kneed to be fixed up but it's kinda a dun deal. Untill sum fast fuker, who kan't push away from teh dinner table or due a few situps cums along a breaks it.

We were calling it sumthin else but for multible reason and meanings.... we called it Jamzilla, aka teh gnu warm up.

It's thing ov beauty, eye gets a boner every tyme eye look at it.... though sadly their iz won spot ewe kin shuffle, coodn't due anything about it.

looks at bare rist

Oh eye awlmost fergot....

speaking about fat fuks and doubling down... CI eye has a pr ov mocs ifs ewe kin redsight teh gnu warm up in a day or teh grots dance ifs ewe fail. It's has a easier crux but iz 3 or 4 tymes a long as teh old warm up.


carabiner96


Feb 24, 2014, 5:49 PM
Post #102137 of 102380 (561 views)
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Re: [tripperjm] still lost. [In reply to]
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Wekened report: tied for silver, but somehow got assigned the bronze medal. All good though, still got to bring home some hardware. Was very happy to have tied a GUY who has been training pretty relentlessly for the last few months. Yup, I was the only girl and they said there had to be 3 in a category so they dumped me with the boys (though looking back there were only two neuro and one blind...again, not big deal - I'm assuming someone forgot to order enough medals).

Meant to hook up with the fly at Shelf but ended up going to bed on a hotel floor at 3 am after doing too many shots in the lobby with [redacted]. Plus the kid we brought to be our ropegun had a dissappointing comp and ended up just going home.

Next comp is June in Vail, since I did that one last year I actually have something to compare it to. Next year's ABS is in Madison, WI - wtf? July I have to go to Atlanta to the SCS comp to qualify for Spain.


carabiner96


Feb 24, 2014, 5:50 PM
Post #102138 of 102380 (560 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] still lost. [In reply to]
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Angry rant - at SCS nationals and Worlds, us gimpy kids aren't allowed to lead because we're too special and fragile. Those are the exact words from an official.


What. The Fuck. I'm going across the world to top rope in a gym.


snoopy138


Feb 24, 2014, 7:42 PM
Post #102139 of 102380 (549 views)
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Posts: 28648

Re: [tripperjm] still lost. [In reply to]
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tripperjm wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
found a love letter on my windshield sun...

Why???

Why does teh man has to sweat my balls?

damn! That sucks. Lost crag?

Well luckly, knot so much like a ass reaming, more like a peck on the cheek.... just so eye noes that he noes.

tyme to double down

ewe has a picture of teh note?

sighs... thinking to self. whut do eye kneed with a pic, eye has teh original

Looks just like a ticket with a hand written note on teh back telling me knot to obstruct teh (fire?) gate. He went awl out though, ran my plate, it has my name address and age on teh ticket. fuking tools. Funny thing is, it's knot really a fire rode, more like a trail. Ewe would has to cut back a lot, to get a truck up there. And even if it were cleared teh rode only goes 150 feet before it ends.

Anyways,

it's been a little cat and mouse on teh hill lately, cept teh cat has better tools than me... a helicopter.

Been sweeping spots and leaving a branch hear and there that would have to be disturbed to pass by. Somebody has been walking up that rode and looking down the canyon while we've been lost. Tool?

So this past weekend, I'm up high and awl ov teh sudden, owt ov nowhere this county sheriff helicopter pops over teh ridge a thousand yards away, turns and parks it 50 feet behind me at eye level. I sit down on teh cord and turn around and stare at 'em. He scopes me for less than a minute, then turns and flies oft. Didn't sea 'em again awl day.

weird.

I kinda expected to be met on teh trail or back at teh rig. Didn't sea anywon. went back next day, no problems.

In other newz,

C-ya finger owt teh move when ewe were in texass and trpoynted this past weekend. I ganked teh cord so nau she on two redsite. Ifs eye has teh aircraft carrier, i'd put up a banner that says Mission Acomplished.... Well there is a couple ov things that kneed to be fixed up but it's kinda a dun deal. Untill sum fast fuker, who kan't push away from teh dinner table or due a few situps cums along a breaks it.

We were calling it sumthin else but for multible reason and meanings.... we called it Jamzilla, aka teh gnu warm up.

It's thing ov beauty, eye gets a boner every tyme eye look at it.... though sadly their iz won spot ewe kin shuffle, coodn't due anything about it.

looks at bare rist

speaking uv braking shit, cody broke teh edge oft of the left hand that you use below the 2x underclings while I was in texass. this past saturday he was able to do that section fine, so it seeems like a non-issue. haven't been on teh rowt, though.

8 people down in teh hole on saturday. myself, cody, and teh 2x agent, plus kentucky mike and krew. Andre rp'd teh BB up to teh jugs, spent a couple minutes shaking out, then fell off of the initial crimp in teh boulder porblem.


snoopy138


Feb 24, 2014, 7:44 PM
Post #102140 of 102380 (546 views)
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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Re: [carabiner96] still lost. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
Angry rant - at SCS nationals and Worlds, us gimpy kids aren't allowed to lead because we're too special and fragile. Those are the exact words from an official.

What. The Fuck. I'm going across the world to top rope in a gym.

take teh trip to spain, then ditch teh gym toproping and go climb teh limestonez.


camhead


Feb 25, 2014, 5:23 AM
Post #102141 of 102380 (527 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20656

Re: [carabiner96] still lost. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
Angry rant - at SCS nationals and Worlds, us gimpy kids aren't allowed to lead because we're too special and fragile. Those are the exact words from an official.


What. The Fuck. I'm going across the world to top rope in a gym.

Well, leading in gyms is lheyme anyhoo.


camhead


Feb 25, 2014, 5:28 AM
Post #102142 of 102380 (525 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20656

Re: [snoopy138] still lost. [In reply to]
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snoopy138 wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
snoopy138 wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
tripperjm wrote:
found a love letter on my windshield sun...

Why???

Why does teh man has to sweat my balls?

damn! That sucks. Lost crag?

Well luckly, knot so much like a ass reaming, more like a peck on the cheek.... just so eye noes that he noes.

tyme to double down

ewe has a picture of teh note?

sighs... thinking to self. whut do eye kneed with a pic, eye has teh original

Looks just like a ticket with a hand written note on teh back telling me knot to obstruct teh (fire?) gate. He went awl out though, ran my plate, it has my name address and age on teh ticket. fuking tools. Funny thing is, it's knot really a fire rode, more like a trail. Ewe would has to cut back a lot, to get a truck up there. And even if it were cleared teh rode only goes 150 feet before it ends.

Anyways,

it's been a little cat and mouse on teh hill lately, cept teh cat has better tools than me... a helicopter.

Been sweeping spots and leaving a branch hear and there that would have to be disturbed to pass by. Somebody has been walking up that rode and looking down the canyon while we've been lost. Tool?

So this past weekend, I'm up high and awl ov teh sudden, owt ov nowhere this county sheriff helicopter pops over teh ridge a thousand yards away, turns and parks it 50 feet behind me at eye level. I sit down on teh cord and turn around and stare at 'em. He scopes me for less than a minute, then turns and flies oft. Didn't sea 'em again awl day.

weird.

I kinda expected to be met on teh trail or back at teh rig. Didn't sea anywon. went back next day, no problems.

In other newz,

C-ya finger owt teh move when ewe were in texass and trpoynted this past weekend. I ganked teh cord so nau she on two redsite. Ifs eye has teh aircraft carrier, i'd put up a banner that says Mission Acomplished.... Well there is a couple ov things that kneed to be fixed up but it's kinda a dun deal. Untill sum fast fuker, who kan't push away from teh dinner table or due a few situps cums along a breaks it.

We were calling it sumthin else but for multible reason and meanings.... we called it Jamzilla, aka teh gnu warm up.

It's thing ov beauty, eye gets a boner every tyme eye look at it.... though sadly their iz won spot ewe kin shuffle, coodn't due anything about it.

looks at bare rist

speaking uv braking shit, cody broke teh edge oft of the left hand that you use below the 2x underclings while I was in texass. this past saturday he was able to do that section fine, so it seeems like a non-issue. haven't been on teh rowt, though.

8 people down in teh hole on saturday. myself, cody, and teh 2x agent, plus kentucky mike and krew. Andre rp'd teh BB up to teh jugs, spent a couple minutes shaking out, then fell off of the initial crimp in teh boulder porblem.

Falling off sequences RIGHT after a shake just sucks. It's almost like tripping over your feet right out of the starting gate.

It's super minor, but I've started thinking about which hand is going to be on the tougher hold when I exit a rest jug, and then I give that hand maybe 30% more rest than the other, if that makes sense.


camhead


Feb 25, 2014, 5:33 AM
Post #102143 of 102380 (524 views)
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Re: [snoopy138] still lost. [In reply to]
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Cool article on ethics of drytooling spurt climbs. Mikey said he did get some butthurt emails about this thing. I just think he should have mentioned teh pegbored champ.

http://www.dpmclimbing.com/...ot-cody-ice-festival


granite_grrl


Feb 25, 2014, 6:31 AM
Post #102144 of 102380 (514 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [camhead] still lost. [In reply to]
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Interesting article. There aren't too many areas that can withstand both drytooling and rock climbing. I think getting your panties in a bunch about drytooling in a granite area on a bunch of 5.8s is a little silly. You're not going to damage the rock and change the character of the climbs. You do make it ugly with crampon scritches (especially from beginners who don't know how to place their feet properly) so probably best not to use crampons.

Soft rock is a mixed blessing, it can gouge up, but it also cleans up quicker from the ugly crampon scritches. But in general the ethic is to stay off established rock routes and stick to areas that need to be frozen together to climb (or areas where the lake has to be frozen to access the routes...which is the case for a lot of the crags North of us that we climb at).

Mayo makes a good point though, if you can have a mediocre rock route or a good mixed route I'd say the mixed route should win. This mentality is similar to the mentality of bolting a lot of local rock routes here. You can have a mediocre/dangerous trad route, or a fairly good sport route.

Some people don't seem to realize that the sport of climbing is evolving though and refuse to think of it in those terms.


granite_grrl


Feb 25, 2014, 6:33 AM
Post #102145 of 102380 (514 views)
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Re: [camhead] still lost. [In reply to]
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Just finished my $3.25 breakfast from wrok (forgot my breakfast smoothie thins morning).

What did I get for $3.25? I'm glad you asked"
4 peices of bacon
2 peices of toast
2 eggs
1 hash brown

awesome.


lena_chita
Moderator

Feb 25, 2014, 8:41 AM
Post #102146 of 102380 (503 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5462

Re: [carabiner96] still lost. [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
Angry rant - at SCS nationals and Worlds, us gimpy kids aren't allowed to lead because we're too special and fragile. Those are the exact words from an official.


What. The Fuck. I'm going across the world to top rope in a gym.

WTF indeed. But if you can stay there before or after the comp, you can do plenty of climbing anyway?

If it makes you feel less special, remember how I was ranting about a class offered at one of those Rendezvous-type climbing venues. The class was called "intermediate Sport-climbing", or something like that. the kicker? You couldn't ACTUALLY LEAD during the class. Like,not even mock-lead. WTF? (No I wasn't taking the class, I was helping out)


dr_feelgood


Feb 25, 2014, 8:44 AM
Post #102147 of 102380 (499 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25627

Re: [granite_grrl] still lost. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Just finished my $3.25 breakfast from wrok (forgot my breakfast smoothie thins morning).

What did I get for $3.25? I'm glad you asked"
4 peices of bacon
2 peices of toast
2 eggs
1 hash brown

awesome.
That is pretty impressive, but what is the current exchange rate?


granite_grrl


Feb 25, 2014, 9:08 AM
Post #102148 of 102380 (492 views)
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Registered: Oct 25, 2002
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Re: [dr_feelgood] still lost. [In reply to]
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dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Just finished my $3.25 breakfast from wrok (forgot my breakfast smoothie thins morning).

What did I get for $3.25? I'm glad you asked"
4 peices of bacon
2 peices of toast
2 eggs
1 hash brown

awesome.
That is pretty impressive, but what is the current exchange rate?

By today's exchange rate you'd be looking at $3.61USD for that breakfast.


dr_feelgood


Feb 25, 2014, 9:43 AM
Post #102149 of 102380 (485 views)
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
Posts: 25627

Re: [granite_grrl] still lost. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Just finished my $3.25 breakfast from wrok (forgot my breakfast smoothie thins morning).

What did I get for $3.25? I'm glad you asked"
4 peices of bacon
2 peices of toast
2 eggs
1 hash brown

awesome.
That is pretty impressive, but what is the current exchange rate?

By today's exchange rate you'd be looking at $3.61USD for that breakfast.
Yum.


lena_chita
Moderator

Feb 25, 2014, 10:27 AM
Post #102150 of 102380 (478 views)
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5462

Re: [granite_grrl] still lost. [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
dr_feelgood wrote:
granite_grrl wrote:
Just finished my $3.25 breakfast from wrok (forgot my breakfast smoothie thins morning).

What did I get for $3.25? I'm glad you asked"
4 peices of bacon
2 peices of toast
2 eggs
1 hash brown

awesome.
That is pretty impressive, but what is the current exchange rate?

By today's exchange rate you'd be looking at $3.61USD for that breakfast.

Go Canada!

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