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roy_hinkley_jr
Dec 8, 2009, 6:37 PM
Post #26 of 71
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cfnubbler wrote: This may be a radical solution, but have you considered and actual, you know, belayer?
Most belayers I see at the gyms are a lot more dangerous than the auto-belays. Trusting a belay from some random dude is foolish at best...especially if they use a Gri-gri.
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adam14113
Dec 9, 2009, 5:14 PM
Post #28 of 71
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roy_hinkley_jr wrote: cfnubbler wrote: This may be a radical solution, but have you considered and actual, you know, belayer? Most belayers I see at the gyms are a lot more dangerous than the auto-belays. Trusting a belay from some random dude is foolish at best...especially if they use a Gri-gri.
Gri-gri's don't cause accidents! PEOPLE DO! 
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majid_sabet
Dec 9, 2009, 5:56 PM
Post #29 of 71
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I recently join the old gym again but then all of the auto belays were gone. I asked the manager and mentioned some accident in Aussi so they pulled everything out to send to MFG for repair or some kind of modification.
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socalclimber
Dec 10, 2009, 1:13 PM
Post #31 of 71
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cfnubbler wrote: This may be a radical solution, but have you considered an actual, you know, belayer?
If you take the belayer out of the equation, then you would only be left with gear failure. Something the modern day "climber" relies on. If you can't blame the gear, then your only left with divine intervention.
Where would 90% of the people on this site be with out laying blame to anything other than themselves?
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angry
Dec 10, 2009, 1:44 PM
Post #32 of 71
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Just so you know, the Nicros auto belay is also under the same stop use notice.
I would not be surprised if that German thing is too, it looks exactly the same except it's got a steel cable.
It seems like a minor deal but for a small climbing wall that struggles to stay bust, this is a huge setback.
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cfnubbler
Dec 10, 2009, 2:18 PM
Post #33 of 71
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socalclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: This may be a radical solution, but have you considered an actual, you know, belayer? If you take the belayer out of the equation, then you would only be left with gear failure. Something the modern day "climber" relies on. If you can't blame the gear, then your only left with divine intervention. Where would 90% of the people on this site be with out laying blame to anything other than themselves?
That very thought ocurred to me as I typed my post, but honestly, I didn't have the heart to go there.
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JAB
Dec 10, 2009, 2:28 PM
Post #34 of 71
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angry wrote: I would not be surprised if that German thing is too, it looks exactly the same except it's got a steel cable.
I don't think they are. The gym I usually go to have at least 6 of those, and they were still in use when I went last Tuesday. I very much doubt they would be in use if they had been issued a stop notice (especially as I know that the gym management is aware of the stop notice on the MSA devide).
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socalclimber
Dec 10, 2009, 2:56 PM
Post #35 of 71
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cfnubbler wrote: socalclimber wrote: cfnubbler wrote: This may be a radical solution, but have you considered an actual, you know, belayer? If you take the belayer out of the equation, then you would only be left with gear failure. Something the modern day "climber" relies on. If you can't blame the gear, then your only left with divine intervention. Where would 90% of the people on this site be with out laying blame to anything other than themselves? That very thought ocurred to me as I typed my post, but honestly, I didn't have the heart to go there.
Well, I have no heart, so it was easy for me.
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gmggg
Dec 14, 2009, 6:46 PM
Post #36 of 71
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angry wrote: Just so you know, the Nicros auto belay is also under the same stop use notice. I would not be surprised if that German thing is too, it looks exactly the same except it's got a steel cable. It seems like a minor deal but for a small climbing wall that struggles to stay bust, this is a huge setback.
Yup, the NTT is the same design as MSA, just euro manufacturing. The old MSA's used steel cable too. Right now there is no alternative other than air over hydraulic systems, but they are a little impractical for most climbing gyms.
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cavedweller
Dec 16, 2009, 5:31 AM
Post #37 of 71
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Hi Guys
A source close to me has just advised that there is an alternative to the MSA Redpoint on the Market. It is manufactured by North Safety Products and is called a CWD1 Climbing Wall Descent Device. Worth a look at if there is nothing else available
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quiteatingmysteak
Dec 16, 2009, 6:31 AM
Post #38 of 71
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Dude, are these devices real? I've never seen or heard of anything like it.
I mean, can't you just ask for a belay at the gym? There shore are some agoraphobez out there.
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milesenoell
Dec 16, 2009, 6:30 PM
Post #39 of 71
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: I mean, can't you just ask for a belay at the gym? There shore are some agoraphobez out there.
I'm curious about this in general, as I often find myself alone when climbing. At a crag I just rope solo, but in a gym, being restricted to bouldering is kinda lame.
Who out there has actually asked a random person in a gym for a belay?
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cavedweller
Dec 16, 2009, 10:48 PM
Post #40 of 71
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Yes They are real. apparently North have had it for a while but never promoted it as MSA had the market wrapped up. Now this has happened North have come out of the shadows and announced they have this. Looks like it is the only alternative left for Solo Climbers in a Gym.
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kiwiprincess
Dec 16, 2009, 10:55 PM
Post #41 of 71
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I have seen the Others doubled up. The chance of both randomly failing at exactly the same moment..Insurers should be ok with those chances surely?
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avalon420
Dec 17, 2009, 12:38 AM
Post #42 of 71
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Bats wrote: In reply to: the manufacturer requires to check the pressure levels in the hydraulics daily...when pressure too...have a faster return to the ground. Sorry I typed too fast and I was at the phone at the same time. It should say... ...the manufacturer requires to check the pressure levels in the hydraulics system daily...when pressure is too low...have a faster return to the ground. I can the gym has never had an accident yet with the auto belay. There were times that were closed, because someone didn't check the level for long period of times.
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gmggg
Dec 25, 2009, 12:00 AM
Post #43 of 71
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milesenoell wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: I mean, can't you just ask for a belay at the gym? There shore are some agoraphobez out there. I'm curious about this in general, as I often find myself alone when climbing. At a crag I just rope solo, but in a gym, being restricted to bouldering is kinda lame. Who out there has actually asked a random person in a gym for a belay?
No, but I have assented to someone else's random belay request. It was awful. I would by my own auto belay (~$2000) just to avoid a similar situation.
There are several auto belay alternatives out there and a few more coming next year. The only thing holding gyms back from installing new auto belays is $$.
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shockabuku
Dec 25, 2009, 12:13 AM
Post #44 of 71
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Registered: May 20, 2006
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milesenoell wrote: quiteatingmysteak wrote: I mean, can't you just ask for a belay at the gym? There shore are some agoraphobez out there. I'm curious about this in general, as I often find myself alone when climbing. At a crag I just rope solo, but in a gym, being restricted to bouldering is kinda lame. Who out there has actually asked a random person in a gym for a belay?
Oh, I haz. In a couple gyms, multiple times. People are really pretty accomodating. I usually climb TR with those people until I get to know them a little better. Then break into lead climbing with some routes I know I won't fall on to feel them out. No one has ever dropped me to the ground, though a couple of established partners came close on two occasions.
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shockabuku
Dec 25, 2009, 12:17 AM
Post #45 of 71
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avalon420 wrote: Bats wrote: In reply to: the manufacturer requires to check the pressure levels in the hydraulics daily...when pressure too...have a faster return to the ground. Sorry I typed too fast and I was at the phone at the same time. It should say... ...the manufacturer requires to check the pressure levels in the hydraulics system daily...when pressure is too low...have a faster return to the ground. I can the gym has never had an accident yet with the auto belay. There were times that were closed, because someone didn't check the level for long period of times. I can the gym too. Out door crags are far more rewarding. Seriously though, multi-tasking is certainly not your strong point.
It apparently aren't your'n neither. Have you an indoor crag? All of ours are outdoor.
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milesenoell
Dec 25, 2009, 1:04 AM
Post #46 of 71
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shockabuku wrote: Have you an indoor crag? All of ours are outdoor.
Dude, get with the times. Garage woodies are so last year. Now everybody is going for real crags, but installing them is a bitch. I figure I'll start by dumping a load of talus in my garage until I can afford some boulders.
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hondaclimber
Dec 26, 2009, 3:17 AM
Post #47 of 71
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There is a new generation one coming out based on eddy currents. No one-way bearing to go wrong. See www.belaynews.com
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milesenoell
Dec 26, 2009, 8:48 PM
Post #48 of 71
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Trippy. I can't get a sense of how it works from the partial diagram in the link, but it sounds like a cool new technology. No-contact deceleration without brake or clutch friction sounds like a major breakthrough. I expect it will have other applications. I'd love to see a full diagram or explanation of how it works.
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sogetthis
Dec 27, 2009, 3:05 AM
Post #49 of 71
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Registered: Sep 5, 2009
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hondaclimber wrote: There is a new generation one coming out based on eddy currents. No one-way bearing to go wrong. See www.belaynews.com
Nice
Hope they make their way to Hangar 18 in Riverside
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avalon420
Jan 2, 2010, 11:14 PM
Post #50 of 71
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Registered: Mar 1, 2005
Posts: 281
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shockabuku wrote: avalon420 wrote: Bats wrote: In reply to: the manufacturer requires to check the pressure levels in the hydraulics daily...when pressure too...have a faster return to the ground. Sorry I typed too fast and I was at the phone at the same time. It should say... ...the manufacturer requires to check the pressure levels in the hydraulics system daily...when pressure is too low...have a faster return to the ground. I can the gym has never had an accident yet with the auto belay. There were times that were closed, because someone didn't check the level for long period of times. I can the gym too. Out door crags are far more rewarding. Seriously though, multi-tasking is certainly not your strong point. It apparently aren't your'n neither. Have you an indoor crag? All of ours are outdoor.
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