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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 12, 2009, 6:07 AM
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Curious what everyone thinks about attempting to climb a route that has more bolts than the number of quickdraws you have.
The way I would go about this, is climb to the first 3 bolts as normal, and on the fourth, instead of hooking up a quickdraw, simply clip in a locking biner to the bolt, and also clip this to the rope. Of course locking it up afterwards.
I do not see anything wrong with this, unless it would sideload the biner or cause something physics related wrong with the setup.
My reason for choosing the 4th bolt (or higher) is as follows. We all know the 1st bolt is important, and the second bolt is the most important since missing this bolt, or falling while attempting to clip this will usually result in hitting the ground.
If we used a locking biner instead of a quickdraw, and it were to whatever reason fail, we would hit the ground being at or above the second bolt without reaching the 3rd.
My guess is the 3rd bolt will usually be high enough that this biner/quickdraw failing will result in a big fall, but the second bolt will still hold us and keep us from hitting the ground.
I chose the 4th bolt to be absolutely sure, that I won't hit the ground, but now as i'm writing this, I'm thinking the 5th might be even better. In case of failure, the 4th bolt would protect us, and the 3rd bolt would back that up. I know this isn't necessary because the 4th bolt will hold, but I like redundancy, especially when my life is on the line.
Let me know what you guys think!
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shimanilami
Oct 12, 2009, 7:09 AM
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Deja vu.
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king_rat
Oct 12, 2009, 8:01 AM
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I would probably take the same approach, but use a locking biner on the last bolt, that way minimizing excess rope drag. I suppose if its safe to do so you could skip one of the top bolts(not ideal). Alternatively if you had any trad gear with you(I know its unlikely at a sport venue) you could make a quickdraw up out of either a trad draw, or by using the sling a cam or some other peace of gear.
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cilohabmilc
Oct 12, 2009, 8:07 AM
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Don't bother counting bolts... a locker is a fine substitute for a quickdraw but is a pain in the neck to get clipped and locked (wasted time/energy) and if the route wanders at all you'll get a heck of a lot of rope drag. When you fall a draw will allow the rope end biner to hang free so that the rope has less of a chance of unclipping itself. A locking mechanism also keeps the rope from unclipping itself. Just make sure that the threads are pointed down so gravity won't unscrew the locker.
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tradmanclimbs
Oct 12, 2009, 12:02 PM
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The locker is totally safe just use it on whatever bolts are easiests to clip. Or use it on a crucial bolt that prevents fatal groundfall.
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sungam
Oct 12, 2009, 12:42 PM
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I would cancel beers with friends for a week and buy some new draws with the money you saved.
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johnwesely
Oct 12, 2009, 12:48 PM
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I am going to go out on a limb and say you are probably over thinking this. I would just skip the last bolt or only use one draw no the anchor. I am assuming you like p8ntball. Last time I checked p8ntball is rather expensive. Don't go p8ntballing one or two times and buy a bunch of draws.
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qwert
Oct 12, 2009, 1:05 PM
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How bout reading this
http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
or the even more recent thread we had on the subject, which i cant find at the moment.
To sum it up:
You can use a locker (or other single biner) on a bolt, and you probably will be safe.
howeveer its a pain to clip, and it will increase rope drag.
So if you have to do this, use a spot where you will not increase rope drag too much, or just do it at the last bolts, where you realize that you run out of draws.
And if you know from the beginning that you are running out of draws, how about doing another route, or making some draws out of slings and biners?
qwert
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notapplicable
Oct 12, 2009, 2:19 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Curious what everyone thinks about attempting to climb a route that has more bolts than the number of quickdraws you have.
Skip as many bolts as your short quickdraws. Preferably high on the route but a lot of times the first bolt is a candidate because it's too close to the ground anyway.
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angry
Oct 12, 2009, 5:08 PM
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You need more than 3 quickdraws
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milesenoell
Oct 12, 2009, 5:28 PM
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+1 for just get more draws. If you have a decent number of draws you can probably get away with just skipping bolts, and if you don't, downclimb and grab the draws below the high point, then climb back up and use 'em again. I know his method blows 'cause I did it a number of times when I only had 6 draws, but at least it's safer than using the (non-locking) biners individually (which I also did).
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yodadave
Oct 12, 2009, 5:32 PM
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angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws
laughing my ass off
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 12, 2009, 7:52 PM
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yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off
I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.
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lena_chita
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Oct 13, 2009, 3:06 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.
Does your partner have some, too?
Yes, you can skip some bolts in some occasions. Yes, you can clip a locking 'biner if you have to.
But really, if you are serious about climbing, you will find that almost all the sport routes worth doing require more than 6 draws.
Go buy some. Or quit climbing.
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hafilax
Oct 13, 2009, 3:15 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.
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photoguy190
Oct 13, 2009, 3:27 PM
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Why is dumb to buy one or two? Its not that much of a savings to buy in packs of 6, and it sounds like you need more. You can easily find draws for under $12 a piece. There might be nothing wrong with doing it your way, but if you start cutting corners in this sport cause you are cheap. You might as well sell the six draws you have and stick to paintballing
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johnwesely
Oct 13, 2009, 3:30 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.
Why would it be stupid to buy only three. That is how many you need, and then you could climb the route safely instead of waiting until you have enough money to get a six pack.
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xaniel2000
Oct 13, 2009, 4:42 PM
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how are you going to clean an 8 bolt route with 6 draws and 1 locking biner?
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johnwesely
Oct 13, 2009, 4:46 PM
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xaniel2000 wrote: how are you going to clean an 8 bolt route with 6 draws and 1 locking biner?
Hold on really tight to the anchor, untie, and learn to retie in with one hand and teeth.
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 13, 2009, 5:42 PM
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johnwesely wrote: xaniel2000 wrote: how are you going to clean an 8 bolt route with 6 draws and 1 locking biner? Hold on really tight to the anchor, untie, and learn to retie in with one hand and teeth.
Lol you made my day with this one. I'd use 2 locking biners to get to the chains.
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hafilax
Oct 13, 2009, 5:49 PM
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There's a story in one of the Smith Rock guide books about a guy on a long sport route. He sees that he's going to run out of draws so he splits the remaining placing one biner on the last few bolts. He gets to the anchor and has nothing left. Luckily there was chain connecting the bolts so he slung his leg over the chain, untied, fed the rope through the chain, retied and lowered.
I think that was all for the flash. 
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kachoong
Oct 13, 2009, 5:52 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.
If you go onto a paintball field and there are eight enemies, do you just take six painballs or enough to hit them all? Or god-forbid extra, in case you need more?
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shockabuku
Oct 13, 2009, 9:48 PM
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I generally downclimb and backclean some gear. Or get more draws.
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 13, 2009, 10:57 PM
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kachoong wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have. If you go onto a paintball field and there are eight enemies, do you just take six painballs or enough to hit them all? Or god-forbid extra, in case you need more?
Well hopefully you'd have better odds than 1 on 8. Kind of depends on what position you play, since I'm a forward I sprint to the 50 yardline, try to take out at least 1 guy, but my main job is callouts for my other players and forcing the other team into bad positions and hiding behind bunkers. I'd say for 8 guys I'd want 500+ paintballs. This is why I play forward so I don't have so waste so much paint/money. The guys who play back on our team shoot 1000-2000 paintballs in a single game, sometimes hoping to get just 1 guy out using the full case.
Anyways, back on topic. Do some sport routes only have bolts or chains on the top without biners already there? If so do you throw way two biners on each route? Where I climb there are two biners attached to the chains so you don't leave any gear up. This way we only need 1 bail biner incase one is damaged or missing
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sungam
Oct 13, 2009, 10:58 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: kachoong wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have. If you go onto a paintball field and there are eight enemies, do you just take six painballs or enough to hit them all? Or god-forbid extra, in case you need more? Well hopefully you'd have better odds than 1 on 8. Kind of depends on what position you play, since I'm a forward I sprint to the 50 yardline, try to take out at least 1 guy, but my main job is callouts for my other players and forcing the other team into bad positions and hiding behind bunkers. I'd say for 8 guys I'd want 500+ paintballs. This is why I play forward so I don't have so waste so much paint/money. The guys who play back on our team shoot 1000-2000 paintballs in a single game, sometimes hoping to get just 1 guy out using the full case. Anyways, back on topic. Do some sport routes only have bolts or chains on the top without biners already there? If so do you throw way two biners on each route? Where I climb there are two biners attached to the chains so you don't leave any gear up. This way we only need 1 bail biner incase one is damaged or missing
This man needs to learn about pancakes.
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iamgeniey
Oct 13, 2009, 11:03 PM
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johnwesely wrote: xaniel2000 wrote: how are you going to clean an 8 bolt route with 6 draws and 1 locking biner? Hold on really tight to the anchor, untie, and learn to retie in with one hand and teeth.
....good skills, good skills.
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johnwesely
Oct 13, 2009, 11:05 PM
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sungam wrote: Mr Barter? This man needs to learn about pancakes.
I agree, but I am worried that the more knowledge we give him, the more dangerous he will become.
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kachoong
Oct 13, 2009, 11:08 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: kachoong wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have. If you go onto a paintball field and there are eight enemies, do you just take six painballs or enough to hit them all? Or god-forbid extra, in case you need more? Well hopefully you'd have better odds than 1 on 8. Kind of depends on what position you play, since I'm a forward I sprint to the 50 yardline, try to take out at least 1 guy, but my main job is callouts for my other players and forcing the other team into bad positions and hiding behind bunkers. I'd say for 8 guys I'd want 500+ paintballs. This is why I play forward so I don't have so waste so much paint/money. The guys who play back on our team shoot 1000-2000 paintballs in a single game, sometimes hoping to get just 1 guy out using the full case. Anyways, back on topic. Do some sport routes only have bolts or chains on the top without biners already there? If so do you throw way two biners on each route? Where I climb there are two biners attached to the chains so you don't leave any gear up. This way we only need 1 bail biner incase one is damaged or missing
Well, I guess to get the point you need to be stabbed in teh face with it...
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MS1
Oct 14, 2009, 12:14 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Anyways, back on topic. Do some sport routes only have bolts or chains on the top without biners already there? If so do you throw way two biners on each route? Where I climb there are two biners attached to the chains so you don't leave any gear up. This way we only need 1 bail biner incase one is damaged or missing
Dude, how many times do you have to have things explained to you??? If there aren't fixed biners at the top, the answer is clear:
johnwesely wrote: Hold on really tight to the anchor, untie, and learn to retie in with one hand and teeth.
Although really you should practice at home before you do this outside, just to be safe. Also, if other climbers are too weak to do this and have left biners on the route, those are booty and you can steal them if you are strong enough to thread the rope in the proper manner.
(This post was edited by MS1 on Oct 14, 2009, 12:15 AM)
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notapplicable
Oct 14, 2009, 2:11 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Well hopefully you'd have better odds than 1 on 8. Kind of depends on what position you play, since I'm a forward I sprint to the 50 yardline, try to take out at least 1 guy, but my main job is callouts for my other players and forcing the other team into bad positions and hiding behind bunkers. I'd say for 8 guys I'd want 500+ paintballs. This is why I play forward so I don't have so waste so much paint/money. The guys who play back on our team shoot 1000-2000 paintballs in a single game, sometimes hoping to get just 1 guy out using the full case.
Classic and it totally fits.
I'd bet money that if we took a poll we'd find the overwhelming majority of sport climbers play speedball; the same for tradies and woodsball.
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notapplicable
Oct 14, 2009, 2:15 AM
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johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Mr Barter? This man needs to learn about pancakes. I agree, but I am worried that the more knowledge we give him, the more dangerous he will become.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahah...!!!!!
I hope someones in need of a sig. line because thatn's a beaut!
(This post was edited by notapplicable on Oct 14, 2009, 5:43 AM)
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 14, 2009, 3:52 AM
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Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly? I understand my multi-pitching idea was bad, now I've learned that I'm not quite experienced enough, plus I know I don't have enough gear yet.
The purpose of this topic was to see if it would be safe to simply use a biner over a quickdraw.
In another thread, I thought the butterfly would be a good stopper not, but learned that the mule knot would work better.
Finally I made another thread, basically thinking outloud on how I thought I could possibly learn to multipitch. It was proven to be bad, but the flames just keep coming...
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agentmm
Oct 14, 2009, 4:40 AM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly? I understand my multi-pitching idea was bad, now I've learned that I'm not quite experienced enough, plus I know I don't have enough gear yet. The purpose of this topic was to see if it would be safe to simply use a biner over a quickdraw. In another thread, I thought the butterfly would be a good stopper not, but learned that the mule knot would work better. Finally I made another thread, basically thinking outloud on how I thought I could possibly learn to multipitch. It was proven to be bad, but the flames just keep coming...
I just imagine 2 guys (you and your belay) high up on a 5.6 shooting eachother with paintballs while one asks the other one how they are going to get down to get more paint...
My point is this: you sound and look stupid
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andrewG
Oct 14, 2009, 4:40 AM
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In reply to: Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly
Haven't read the other threads you are referring to but it seems to me that all the information you are wanting is available either through doing a search on this or other climbing websites, by going to a library and reading a book, or finding someone to climb with who has adequate gear and experience that you can learn from. You just have to sift through the shit to get the info you want if you start a thread that is redundant to site regulars.
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subantz
Oct 14, 2009, 7:05 AM
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I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice.
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sungam
Oct 14, 2009, 8:01 AM
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subantz wrote: I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice.
You should see his nigerian scammer email convo's!!!!
He sent one to the rickroll hotline!
"It is saying congradulations you have been ringrolled"
"Ehh, yeah - that happens sometimes."
It solid win.
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johnwesely
Oct 14, 2009, 12:17 PM
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sungam wrote: subantz wrote: I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice. You think that shits funny? You should see his nigerian scammer email convo's!!!! He sent one to the rickroll hotline! "It is saying congradulations you have been ringrolled" "Ehh, yeah - that happens sometimes." It solid win.
I really need to finish my writeup of that. He stopped responding to my email after I sent him this
http://picasaweb.google.com/...&feat=directlink
Sorry about not embedding the picture, but it is impossible to read once RC.com shrinks it down.
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sungam
Oct 14, 2009, 12:26 PM
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johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: subantz wrote: I love Johns posts. They make me laugh everytime. Nice J nice. You think that shits funny? You should see his nigerian scammer email convo's!!!! He sent one to the rickroll hotline! "It is saying congradulations you have been ringrolled" "Ehh, yeah - that happens sometimes." It solid win. I really need to finish my writeup of that. He stopped responding to my email after I sent him this http://picasaweb.google.com/...&feat=directlink Sorry about not embedding the picture, but it is impossible to read once RC.com shrinks it down.
I was laughing my ass off when you told him you were deaf.
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Shintao
Oct 14, 2009, 4:07 PM
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I think what we have seen here is many climbers fearing that they will hear about you on the evening news because you got stranded on a single pitch sport route. This may lead to a nice climbing area being closed, because the government feels the need to protect us.
So in a sense it is not because people are flaming you, just that they want to make sure they can still climb things.
Also, a good suggestion if you are going to start multipitching, maybe invest in a portaledge and spend the night on bolt 3.
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bill413
Oct 14, 2009, 5:27 PM
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Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors.
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p8ntballsk8r
Oct 14, 2009, 6:01 PM
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bill413 wrote: Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors.
Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall?
Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training
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silascl
Oct 14, 2009, 6:28 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: bill413 wrote: Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors. Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall? Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training
It sounds like he's fucking with you, no one would actually recommend downclimbing a route to clean it as a real solution.
Almost all the replies in this thread are fucking with you. Your best bet would be to stop replying, get a new username, and use a bit of sense before starting new threads.
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hafilax
Oct 14, 2009, 6:37 PM
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silascl wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: bill413 wrote: Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors. Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall? Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training It sounds like he's fucking with you, no one would actually recommend downclimbing a route to clean it as a real solution. Almost all the replies in this thread are fucking with you. Your best bet would be to stop replying, get a new username, and use a bit of sense before starting new threads.
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silascl
Oct 14, 2009, 6:58 PM
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hafilax wrote: silascl wrote: p8ntballsk8r wrote: bill413 wrote: Oh, to get back to an earlier question...no, not all routes have biners at the top. Not all routes have chains. In some areas you'll find all sorts of things up there, in others it's more uniform. Talk to the locals. Be prepared for whatever you find. Send your partner up first so they can tell you what you have to deal with. Just downclimb the thing & you don't have to worry about the anchors. Ok, well I probably run into this any time soon, since my local place has chains and biners. But if you were to downclimb as you say, do you just clean your draws on the way down? Meaning right after you take one out, you've got a 20ft fall coming if you do happen to fall? Doesn't sound like that much fun to me, but I have heard that downclimbing is great physical training It sounds like he's fucking with you, no one would actually recommend downclimbing a route to clean it as a real solution. Almost all the replies in this thread are fucking with you. Your best bet would be to stop replying, get a new username, and use a bit of sense before starting new threads. I've down-led easy trad climbs in order to not leave any gear. You face the same kinds of falls as leading only down-climbing can be more difficult depending on the route. It's definitely a useful skill.
Then again, this is the sport climbing forum.
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subantz
Oct 14, 2009, 7:04 PM
Post #46 of 67
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No stop taking our fun away. No more info from you. Paintball dont listen to him hes a NOOB.
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notapplicable
Oct 14, 2009, 9:16 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: Is there really something wrong with this thread that I'm getting flammed so badly? I understand my multi-pitching idea was bad, now I've learned that I'm not quite experienced enough, plus I know I don't have enough gear yet. The purpose of this topic was to see if it would be safe to simply use a biner over a quickdraw. In another thread, I thought the butterfly would be a good stopper not, but learned that the mule knot would work better. Finally I made another thread, basically thinking outloud on how I thought I could possibly learn to multipitch. It was proven to be bad, but the flames just keep coming...
In all sincerity man, the three threads you have started thus far point to a lack of respect for exactly how dangerous climbing is. Unlike a whole host of other sports that can be dabbled in with minimal or improvised gear, climbing will kill you in a second and be completely unapologetic about having done so.
If you can't take this sport seriously enough to make a minor investment in proper gear or do enough independent research (there is a ton of literature on climbing practices and safety) to understand that a single bolt is an unsafe belay anchor, I would ask that you seriously re-evaluate your motivations to climb. If those seem like too much effort, this sport is not for you.
That said, I have learned a hell of a lot from discussion on this site but almost all of it falls in the "advanced" or "nuance" categories. This is not the place for learning the basics but rather for honing your craft once your foundation is in place. My suggestion would be to read, read and then read some more. Once you've got a good understanding of the theory, either find an experienced climber or go out with a friend who has done just as much research as you have and work the system out for yourself. Nothing wrong with doing that but take it slow and take the initiative to educate and equip yourself properly.
Thats my two cents anyway.
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dudemanbu
Oct 14, 2009, 9:25 PM
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Trad climber, speed paintballer.
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kevthegerman
Oct 14, 2009, 10:09 PM
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ok, skip paintballing, skip skating, skip doing them both at the same time.. paint ball is cool but you enivitably "die" everytime you play.. climb more.. buy more draws and than instead of losing like 5 point of protection you have all of the points of protection..cuz in rock climbing you don't "die", you die..
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avalon420
Oct 14, 2009, 10:26 PM
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notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Mr Barter? This man needs to learn about pancakes. I agree, but I am worried that the more knowledge we give him, the more dangerous he will become. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahah...!!!!! I hope someones in need of a sig. line because thatn's a beaut!
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notapplicable
Oct 15, 2009, 1:02 AM
Post #51 of 67
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avalon420 wrote: notapplicable wrote: johnwesely wrote: sungam wrote: Mr Barter? This man needs to learn about pancakes. I agree, but I am worried that the more knowledge we give him, the more dangerous he will become. Aaaaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahah...!!!!! I hope someones in need of a sig. line because thatn's a beaut! Totally got that covered. My thoughts exactly.
[Mr. Burns voice] Eeeeeeeeeexxxccelnt!! [/Mr. Burns Voice]
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altelis
Oct 15, 2009, 1:53 AM
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how have you allowed this obvious troll to continue for three pages? 
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notapplicable
Oct 15, 2009, 4:44 AM
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I considered the possibility but I figured I err on the side of being helpful.
I probably did stick my fingers in the trap though.
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notapplicable
Oct 15, 2009, 4:44 AM
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dudemanbu wrote: Trad climber, speed paintballer.
Your doing it wrong.
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shoo
Oct 15, 2009, 3:18 PM
Post #57 of 67
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johnwesely wrote: Trolls are the best part of this website. If we let them die, the what is left?
First shoe threads, mostly.
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johnwesely
Oct 15, 2009, 3:31 PM
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shoo wrote: johnwesely wrote: Trolls are the best part of this website. If we let them die, the what is left? First shoe threads, mostly.
Exactly, and where is the fun in that?
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dudemanbu
Oct 16, 2009, 8:18 PM
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notapplicable wrote: dudemanbu wrote: Trad climber, speed paintballer. Your doing it wrong.
Nah, i do action trad too.
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sp00ki
Nov 13, 2009, 11:53 PM
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p8ntballsk8r wrote: yodadave wrote: angry wrote: You need more than 3 quickdraws laughing my ass off I have six... I don't think it's possible to buy only 3 unless you get them separate which would be stupid. Anyways, I was trying to figure out a way to climb a 7 or 8 bolt route with only the 6 I have.
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tomcat_ct
Nov 16, 2009, 3:25 PM
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wait until he starts asking questions about gear and trad...
(This post was edited by tomcat_ct on Nov 16, 2009, 3:26 PM)
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kriso9tails
Nov 16, 2009, 6:29 PM
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bill413 wrote: tomcat_ct wrote: wait until he starts asking questions about gear and trad... Do you have to buy trad gear in sets also? What if the route is longer than the set you buy?
You start jamming locking biners directly into the crack. It's best to use screw gates since the metal lock can act a bit like a stopper. Also, make sure to clip the rope through the biner before you place it; it's going to be hard to do after.
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bill413
Nov 17, 2009, 12:06 AM
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kriso9tails wrote: bill413 wrote: tomcat_ct wrote: wait until he starts asking questions about gear and trad... Do you have to buy trad gear in sets also? What if the route is longer than the set you buy? You start jamming locking biners directly into the crack. It's best to use screw gates since the metal lock can act a bit like a stopper. Also, make sure to clip the rope through the biner before you place it; it's going to be hard to do after.
I've heard some people say that you can use two non-lockers in place of one locking biner. Would that make the rope easier to clip?
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kriso9tails
Nov 17, 2009, 12:08 AM
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Maybe, but I don't know if you can buy them in sets of two.
Damn, climbing is complicated stuff.
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spacemonkey07
Jan 20, 2010, 12:58 PM
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kriso9tails wrote: bill413 wrote: tomcat_ct wrote: wait until he starts asking questions about gear and trad... Do you have to buy trad gear in sets also? What if the route is longer than the set you buy? You start jamming locking biners directly into the crack. It's best to use screw gates since the metal lock can act a bit like a stopper. Also, make sure to clip the rope through the biner before you place it; it's going to be hard to do after.
hold on to biner, untie with other hand, thread rope through biner, tie in with the other hand. repeat at next plaxement if necessary
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Kevthecoffeeguy
Jan 20, 2010, 1:06 PM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2010
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Did you ever think maybe, Just maybe mind you. you should buy more F-ing Quick draws?
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