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j_ung
Oct 13, 2009, 9:19 AM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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^^
That's what I pictured when I first read the OP. I've done similar things before involving loose-but-semi-fixed flakes in cracks, but I confess, I have no idea if it would have worked if needed. At the time, I imagined it might come down to leverage (were the cams placed so as not to simply see-saw the flake out) and the degree to which they were actually equalized, rather than just in theory.
Edit: This might be an interesting experiment next time I see a similar situation low enough to the ground to bounce test over a crash pad.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Oct 13, 2009, 9:21 AM)
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csproul
Oct 13, 2009, 9:26 AM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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I recently read a big-wall trip report where the climber didn't have a large enough cam to aid up a wide section. He used a board up against the side of the crack to effectively make the crack smaller such that the cam he did have would fit. It worked for aiding, but I am not sure I'd trust it for fall protection.
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altelis
Oct 13, 2009, 9:28 AM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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All PTFW claims that are part of an edited post will be held as suspect.
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altelis
Oct 13, 2009, 9:45 AM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Worthless without screen shots!
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