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what's the word on the madrocks?
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jahmin


Dec 17, 2002, 8:49 AM
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once someone gets these and uses them for a while, please comment on the fit and the adaptation to your foot shape. I would have to believe that with all that rubber there will be minimal stretch (if any), so if it isn't a great fit right out of the box, it's never going to work. Please let everyone know after the break in period.


marmot


Dec 17, 2002, 8:59 AM
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Tried on the Hookers on Sat at a local shop (the only madrocks they had in as yet). Nomally wear a 9.5 street shoe (can go up to 10 or down to 9 depending on manufac). Tried on a 10.5 and they were still way to snug. I'll probably be checking out the other madrocks when the shop gets them in.


curt


Dec 17, 2002, 9:09 AM
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Jessica,

I have climbed outdoors with the Mad Rock Phoenix shoes for the last two weekends now--and once at the local bouldering gym.

The rubber on the Phoenix shoes is what Mad Rock calls "formula 5" which is the same rubber used on the outer part of the soles on the slippers and other shoes that have the "dual density" rubber soles.

The "formula 5" rubber seems to me to be at least as sticky as the 5.10 C4 rubber. It also holds small edges very well. I don't know how it will wear because the shoes are still too new to tell--but I will see.

I also have a pair of the slippers (Shark) coming, so I will see how these compare to the Phoenix, and will post something here.

Curt


bitterlotus


Dec 17, 2002, 10:18 AM
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Should be getting my Hooker Zips and my Sharks today!!! YAY!!! I'll be heading to the gym immediately! Keep you all posted.


Partner missedyno


Dec 17, 2002, 10:25 AM
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hey curt thanks for the info... i've been looking for another pair of slippers to spend my money on... i was hoping to try out this 5.10 rubber but moccasyms are too wide for my feet. I hope that madrocks will be good for me.


Partner phaedrus


Dec 17, 2002, 5:41 PM
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My Hooker Laces arrived today. I wear a size 13 street shoe and ordered a size 11 figuring they'd stretch like my Sportiva Cliffs or my 5.10 Spires (I got the 5.10s in size 11.5). Had to use serious force to get the Hookers on my foot! I called the dealer who was very cool about exchanging them. Down side: I gotta wait longer before I get to try them. Up side: They're going to ship out my Sharks at the same time they re-send my Hooker Laces.

I ordered a size 12 for the Hookers and changed my order to a size 12 for the Sharks. Moral of the story: don't size Mad Rock shoes down too much when you get them.


data118


Dec 18, 2002, 10:32 AM
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Hey Bitter, I want my Hooker.


bitterlotus


Dec 18, 2002, 10:47 AM
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The shoe or the service??? Well, you're getting one of those for X-Mas so be patient!!!


curt


Dec 18, 2002, 6:03 PM
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Todd,

I think you are probably right on the sizing. My regular street shoe size is 10 and I ordered my Mad Rock Phoenix shoes in 8 1/2. They are pretty snug--getting OK though, since they do not have any lining or the rubber all over the toe. After discussions with Joe Garland at Mad Rock, I decided to order my slippers (Sharks) in size 9, thereby only going down one full size.

Curt


tyraidbp


Dec 18, 2002, 6:42 PM
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I have to tell all of you that after reading through 6 pages of postings in just this one topic and a new companies website, THIS IS CRAZY!!! Does anyone here realize that the shoes that seem to be new are the same things as 5.10 has produced? All they have done is give you the "gimmick" to buy them. Its just like REI doing knock-offs for so long of other companies products. If you want to buy things that are stolen designs or knock-offs thats cool. Just so all of you know, you can pick up North Face shells(knock-offs) for about $45-$75 each. Only difference is the zipper is on the opposite side. The quality on these is better than the real deal. Just thought you should know, and dont ask me where to get them because I personally dont support things such as that. 5.10 went to a company that is setup to produce a certian product, settled on a price, paid them for their services and now pay the price for not building everything in-house.


funktimonious


Dec 18, 2002, 7:00 PM
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I'm not really sure what you're saying, but i think you're on my side...at least with the gimmick talk.

--Peace


rockinrobby


Dec 18, 2002, 7:18 PM
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5-10 shoes------$140.00

Mad Rocks------$85.00

Savings--------$55.00

Enough Said!!!!!


crux_clipper


Dec 18, 2002, 7:29 PM
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When i first saw the shoes in a mag, i thought to myself, "yeah, thats a gimmick" Hearing what people have said now, i believe the 'gimmick' has paid off or Madrock. It obviously works.

However, you have to wonder, as pointed out above with the price difference.....the madrocks obviously have had a lot more R&D needed, and the costruction and materials used seem complex, so why are they still cheaper then 5.10's? It seems to me that something is missing in the equation.


jmitch8119


Dec 18, 2002, 10:28 PM
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How do the mugens compared to other mad rock shoes. and how do they stack up against the anasazis, dragons, and v10?

Thanks


bitterlotus


Dec 19, 2002, 2:33 PM
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DUDE!!! The hookers are not yellow -- they're LIME GREEN!!!!

And they're CRAZY small! Actually, they're narrow and I would say they are about 1/2 a size smaller than 5.10 sizing, maybe a full size, if you factor in the narrowness.

Returning them today.


data118


Dec 20, 2002, 6:13 AM
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SWEET! Yeah what's da dilly on that lime green color? And they're not just crazy small, they're Mad small.

I wear a size 8.5, 5.10 spire, had to get a size 9 Hooker lace up. I think even with the 9 it will still be a tighter than my 5.10.

Hi Em.


Partner one900johnnyk


Dec 20, 2002, 7:35 AM
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crux: it's obvious to me what has been missing: a reasonably priced brand of rock shoes. i mean the margins on rock shoes are really high and by lowering their margins madrock is going to get tons more volume and probably make more money when word gets out that these shoes are just as good if not better than their higher priced counterparts. hopefully this will lead to lowered prices by all shoe manufacturers when they start to lose business. if you don't think they are watching madrocks market share gains closely, you underestimate the demand for these things.


curt


Dec 20, 2002, 8:11 PM
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The sizing of the Mad Rock shoes does need to be addressed. I have a size 10 street shoe size. I also have a pair of 8 1/2 Mad Rock Phoenix shoes, that are pretty snug--but OK. Today, I got a pair of size 9 Mad Rock Sharks that are seriously small. At first, I didn't think there was any way my feet would go into those things, but finally they did. I almost had to give myself a hernia to pull them on though. I guess slippers have to fit tight. I will report back on how they perform after I use them this weekend.

Curt


Partner phaedrus


Dec 22, 2002, 8:26 PM
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Got mine in on Friday, tried them out yesterday. (I have a pair of Hooker Laces and a pair of Sharks.)

I like them a lot, performance-wise... they worked great; definitely some of the best shoes I've used. The rubber is nicely sticky, and the dual-sole rubber is a nice touch.

My only complaint is the sizing. Originally, I got them 2 sizes under my street shoe, and they were WAY too small. (I wear a size 13.) I had to return them and got size 12s. The 12s are still pretty small- they hurt to walk around in, at least at the gym, but while climbing, they work pretty well. I wore them for quite a while and they stretched a bit and felt better, but then I took them off to go get food and when I got back, they were seriously uncomfortable again (I'd heard the rubber on top will make them go back into their original shape.) I'm thinking about maybe trying a 12.5 if the situation doesn't improve.

Between the two, I like the Sharks a bit better, in large part due to the comfort. (The Sharks win in this category.)

BUT... performance-wise, I couldn't ask for better. The top rubber makes toe-hooking a snap, and the ridged heel makes heel-hooking pretty easy as well. While I don't see myself running up any 5.15s in the near future because of the shoes, they do help my performance a bit, just due to the dual density rubber and the stickiness of it.

Overall: I like 'em... A LOT!! Go buy 'em.


jmitch8119


Dec 24, 2002, 10:01 PM
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still waiting for my mugens. any reviews on them? or anyone try them out yet?


curt


Dec 25, 2002, 10:15 AM
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Everyone,

I previously wrote a review of the Mad Rock Phoenix shoes and was going to also do a review of the Sharks.

However, Todd, above has already said most of the things that I would have put in my review. So I will not do a complete review. I would emphasize the sizing issue again, though. The Shark is not sized at all like the Phoenix. My 8 1/2 phoenix shoes are much larger than my size 9 sharks. For a size 10 foot like mine, the size 9 Sharks are barely possible to get on. I am willing to bet that 9 1/2 sharks would still be pretty tight. You may want to take that into account when ordering.

Having said that, the Sharks are not too uncomfortable--even when really tight. And, now that I have put them on and taken them off a few times, they are a little easier to get into.

They do perform very well, as the Phoenix shoes do. For a relatively soft slipper, they edge well--at least when they are as tight as mine are. Overall, they are the best slippers I have had in a long time. I prefer them over the LaSportiva Cobra and the Red 5.10 slipper that (for some reason) I can't remember the name of.

Curt


data118


Dec 27, 2002, 11:05 AM
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Anyone else get them for Christmas?


moeman


Dec 27, 2002, 11:16 AM
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Is the Moccasyn the red 5.10 shoe you're refering to?


Partner phaedrus


Dec 27, 2002, 4:41 PM
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Took the Mad Rocks outside today... well, I took the Sharks out. Hit Flagstaff Mountain in Boulder and did some bouldering... the Sharks were GREAT. The heel gave me a nice edge on some hooks I was doing, and in general, they out performed my other shoes I'd brought along.

They seem to be breaking in a bit better since it wasn't painful to wear them this time, though I still can't walk around in them for long periods.

I continue to be happy... even more so since it looks like I may not have to exchange them again.


curt


Dec 27, 2002, 5:12 PM
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moeman,

Yes. I think the red 5.10 slippers that I had before were Moccasyms. Thanks for jogging my memory.

Curt

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