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what's the word on the madrocks?
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naitch


Dec 27, 2002, 7:51 PM
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Well my son's and mine MadRocks came today and I thot I'd report. My son got size 7 Mugens and I got 8.5 Hooker Zips. The observations that others have stated about sizes running small seem true for us. My son normally wears 6.5-7s in Boreals and he felt like the Mugens were to small especially since he's growing. I normally wear a size 9 5.10 for comfort. I wanted a bouldering shoes that was tight(er). However the 8.5 Zips were too snug for me. They are also a bit on the narrow side. I probably could have gotten by with them but my fear was the all rubber toe not stretching and conforming to my foot.

My son tried my 8.5 zips, and while they are a slight but too large, he thought they were right if they were going to last him through the next climbing season. Actually he raves about the fit. He has only used them on our home wall but was standing with no problem on the tiniest of nubbins. Unfortunately, I'll have to send back his to exchange for another pair for me. I'll probably go with an 8.5 Flash since it's all leather and will stretch and conform to my foot.

The only negative so far, is not being able to try them on and fit them at a local shop around here.

Naitch

They also come in a spiffy nylon mesh bag.


topher


Dec 29, 2002, 10:07 AM
Post #102 of 142 (23036 views)
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one thing i would watch with the rubber on the top is for delaming, thats the reson why 5.10 stoped making rock socks, is that they could never find a way to keep the rubber on the top of the shoe from delaming, this is because when you put the shoes on and off they strech and so does the glue but after doing this a few times the glue starts to break down and the rubber starts to peal. but i hope that the mad rocks work out. i dont like the idea of ripping off other companys but i think that there is enough diffrence between the two companys. i personaly am not going to run out and get a pair, because i feel that the reson the shoes are so cheap is so that the company doesnt have to pay of r&d but rather they get to make some money from it. i belive that after a few months of the cheap prices and after all the problems are fixed i would amagine a large price increase. any way good luck to all who have a paire and keep me mods.php#60">posted on the shoes.


funktimonious


Dec 29, 2002, 12:59 PM
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YES ^^^^

And everyone seems to be making a huge deal about how sticky the rubber is. Almost all climbing shoes are sticky when you first get them. The real test of the rubber quality will be after a few dozen days of climbing. Thatís the problem with these short term test groups...they don't say much about the shoe really.


madrock


Jan 3, 2003, 3:26 PM
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Thanks for all the feedback, and e-mails.

Joe
Mad Rock


fo_d


Jan 3, 2003, 4:00 PM
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Joe, I'd like to be on here telling people about my new Mugan's that I ordered on Dec. 2ed, but the UPS guy passed my house again today. I got to see my partners Mugen's Monday so I thought mine would be in soon, NOT.

Oh well, I'll keep waiting, I'm pretty sure they'll be worth it.

Les


stardust44


Jan 3, 2003, 4:07 PM
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Hey, I want to avoid sending these shoes back because I really really need a new pair of shoes like right now ... all mine need resoling.

I e-mailed the mad rock dudes, but they haven't responded. The shoe I have that fits me best are my size 36 (size 5.5 in U.S) five ten diamonds. They started out tight, but now are perfect after going through lots of multipitches. I was thinking of getting the Mugen. What size do you all recommend? My street shoe size is 6.5-7.

Thanks!


nite_climber


Jan 3, 2003, 5:02 PM
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Just so you know, the rubber is stitched on the top, so delam problem solved. I think they have the R&D thing down more than you think, at least when I look at the shoe I see a high quality shoe. Just my opinion and to let Topher know! Been using the shoes pretty hard for a month now, and still look good and stick like glue.

My $1.00 - $0.98


curt


Jan 3, 2003, 5:27 PM
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stardust44,

If the Mugens are sized like the Mad Rock Phoenix shoes, you can go down 1 to 1 1/2 sizes, and they will be snug. If, however, they are sized more like the Mad Rock Shark, you will only want to go down 1/2 size from your street shoe size--or possibly 1 full size, if you want them REALLY tight.

Curt


stardust44


Jan 5, 2003, 1:47 PM
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Ok, thanks .
But does anyone know if they are sized more like the sharks or the pheonix, as Curt mentioned?


cruzinsouthoc


Jan 6, 2003, 6:57 PM
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Does anyone know if Mad Rock shoes are going to be stocked by any shops in So Cal? ie, Outland Mountainshop in Pasadena or Nomad Ventures in Joshua Tree? The guys at Mad Rock said the "chain" stores like REI and Sport Chalet won't have them for quite some time..if they even decide to carry them at all.

I'd really like to try them on to see how they feel before deciding whether or not to buy a pair.


wv5ten


Jan 6, 2003, 7:00 PM
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any beta on the Flash's? I've been looking at them. more than the others


Partner one900johnnyk


Jan 6, 2003, 7:53 PM
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i'm gonna get the flashes too but can't find anyone else who has them. wanna take the plunge together and talka bout how much they suck or rule together? haha! i'm gonna order tomorrow. good luck


wv5ten


Jan 6, 2003, 8:40 PM
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im still in ordering limbo lol. How are you sizing yours? I wear 12 and my Spires are 11s, think I'll be safe with the same deal? (one size down), keep in touch and let me know whats up. I'll probably order mine between tomorrow and within a week


Partner one900johnnyk


Jan 7, 2003, 5:49 AM
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i'm a 12 too and i plan on ordering an 11, b/c las time i ordered an 11 (red chillis) they were too tight and i had to send them back. but i have decided i don't really give a damn about pain, really. i thought of ordering two sizes and sending one back but i don't know if i should order the 10.5 or 11.5 so i'm just gonna cross my fingers on the 11. do you do lots of climbing in wv over winter or is it way too cold/?


data118


Jan 7, 2003, 8:15 AM
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I wear a size 8.5 in the Spires. Orderes 8.5 Hooker lace and was way too tight.


bitterlotus


Jan 7, 2003, 8:29 AM
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Sent mine back also -- ordered them a whole size larger than my 5.10s, and still think they might be too tight.

Will be getting them on the 13th, Data!


data118


Jan 7, 2003, 8:52 AM
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The 13th!


cerikpete


Jan 7, 2003, 2:01 PM
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So you're gonna want to order these about the same as your normal shoe size??

Just curious...


wv5ten


Jan 7, 2003, 2:17 PM
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i emailed madrocks about their sizing as compared to 5.10, but i have yet to get a reply. :/


Partner one900johnnyk


Jan 7, 2003, 2:27 PM
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hey i just ordered the 11s ... they will probably take a while to get here but i should be able to report back to you in about a week or so.


fo_d


Jan 7, 2003, 2:31 PM
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This sux, I'm getting real tired of "ordering limbo" I can even get any info on the status of my order.

Les


mother_sheep


Jan 7, 2003, 2:46 PM
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Is there somewhere I can find a side by side comparison of madrocks vs. 5.10 vs. La Sportiva vs. Boreal vs. everything else? Climbing magazine usually does a yearly shoe review right?



wv5ten


Jan 7, 2003, 8:01 PM
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yeah, more than anything else i want to see a 5.10 vs madrock size comparison.

wait...does that mean i have to change my name


wv5ten


Jan 8, 2003, 8:08 PM
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email responded. I wear an 11 5.10 spire, in the MR Flash, i would probably wear a 10.5 or 11. straight from Joe @ madrocks.


heelhooker


Jan 9, 2003, 9:03 PM
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i ordered mugens today

they were in stock and going in the mail tomorrow

a report to follow soon, i hope

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