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eyeklimb


Nov 5, 2009, 7:07 AM
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Eastern U.S. hitlist suggestions...  (North_America: United_States)
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Hey everyone, I'm looking at taking a trip next summer, and I'm trying to work out the logistics and see just how feasible this all is. I've never really gone on any over night climbing trips besides a 2 nighter at Pilot Mountain in NC, and I now have been given an opportunity to go from NC to NH in either June or July, climbing all along the way. We're looking at taking about 2-3 weeks, and climbing, starting at Linville, then hitting up the New, Seneca, DWG, The Gunks, and finishing out with some NH big wall stuff. Due to the amount of driving we'll be doing and our own personal skill levels, we really arent looking at doing anything more than a 5.8, but instead just getting out and seeing the country, so casual, easy-moderate multi-pitch trad stuff is preferred. All 3 guys going are capable of leading and we can do pretty much the majority of 5.8's and are willing to do a 5.9 pitch if necessary.

The question that has come up with thinking of where all to go, is not the location, but the routes. We're looking at going next summer, so we've definitely got some time to figure things out, but, since we're already talking about it, I'm getting excited, and thought I'd see what the RC.comers have to say about the routes between here and there. I'm willing to put up for the guidebooks to all the places, as I'm sure I will be revisiting each of them. We're mainly looking at multi-pitch trad, and could care less about sport. So, to the regulars of the New, Seneca, DWG, the Gunks, and NH.... what are some of your favorite easy-moderates?

I have looked at each place thoroughly, and I'm having the most trouble with Seneca and NH specifically. There's plenty of info on the Gunks, and we arent having too much trouble picking routes at DWG (at least not that I know of, but then again, that is the point of this post) I understand that right now, I dont really need to be concerned with routes, but it definitely helps fuel the excitement, when I can look at a route, and say to myself, "I'll be on that next summer" ya know?

Also, what are the good guidebooks to invest in for each area, and what's the camping like? Addresses would be the most helpful, so we can plan out driving times and distances, but phone numbers work too.

Any and all help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Chris


olderic


Nov 5, 2009, 7:34 AM
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Thats a tall order. I don't have time for a detailed reply but wil just throw out a few more random thoughts.

You ought to add the Adirondaks to your list of potential venues.

In NH you should focus on N Conway - Cathedral and Whitehorse in particular. Certainly there are tons more of slightly obscure crags around but on a high lights trip like this you should start there. if you want more alpine like adventure head for Cannon or Huntington Ravine (Mt. Washington).

Your biggest risk - as always in the east - is the weather. It could be perfect. It could equally likely be hot humid and damp. Be flexible and have some alternatives. Check forecasts before you drive a day to get someplace. For sure its likely to be buggy in NH. In general you can get cooler, drier more bug free conditions if you go up higher on the bigger cliffs.


tradmanclimbs


Nov 5, 2009, 8:06 AM
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Seneca is one of my favorits. Such a cool mini mountain. The easiest and best protected of the 5.7s to the summit is Green Wall. Other favorite moderats are Pleasant Overhang, West Pole with the direct finish. Extacy and Gunsite to South Peak.. Etc . Etc. Etc,,

Gunks you can figuer out on your own.

North Conway area Easier classics on Cathedra/ Whitehorse.
Bombardment to Black lung. Toe crack, the Siagons.
Sea of Holes with direct finish. Inferno
Moderate Classics on Cannon
Whitny G, Moby grape, lakeview to Weisners buttress.. accross the street from cannon loot at the eaglett, Rt66 , salt packed pig sack.


Partner j_ung


Nov 5, 2009, 8:16 AM
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I'm sure you'll get plenty of route suggestions, so I'll just toss in a bit of advice: plan it so you're at Seneca on weekdays. Wink


tradmanclimbs


Nov 5, 2009, 8:25 AM
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Plan it so you are everywhere on weekdays...


blueeyedclimber


Nov 5, 2009, 8:25 AM
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To answer your question about routes:

Must-dos in the 5.8 and under category:

NH
Whitney-Gilman Ridge, 5.7, Cannon
Moby Grape, 5.8, Cannon
Thin Air, 5.6, Cathedral Ledge
Bombardment, 5.8, Cathedral
Standard Route, 5.5, Whitehorse ledge
Sliding Board, 5.7, Whitehorse

Gunks

Son of Easy O, 5.8
High Expsoure, 5.6
Disneyland, 5.6
Birdland, 5.8+
Horseman, 5.5
Yum Yum Yab Yum, 5.3
Frog's Head, 5.5


This is just to get you started. There is literally too many routes to list. In the time that you were here, you won't even scratch the surface. Also, June and July in the Northeast is buggy and humid. You also may get a lot of rain. This past June we had over 20 days of rain. That is unusual, but it can happen. Just be prepared to be flexible and ask around for routes or areas that dry fast or even stay dry when it IS raining.

Too bad you can't do September to October.
Josh


jrathfon


Nov 5, 2009, 8:37 AM
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horowitz's "select climbs of the northeast". do them all, that will cover you from gunks to maine.

ya, i'd hit every crag in the NE on weekdays, though north conway ain't too bad on weekends.

if i had to pick one(or two) moderate(s) at every area:

seneca: extasy to green wall
gunks: CCK, arrow, modern times (hehe, you said 8's), and an easy nine (30ft, lots o' pins), directissima into high-e
dacks: diagonal (wallface), gamesmanship (poke-o)
cannon: whitney-g, moby grape
cathedral: bombardment to black lung, saigons or thin air to pine tree elim.
whitehorse: sliding board
mt. willard: across the universe
huntington: obviously NE ridge of the pinnacle

p.s. everything i listed above in the NE should have a topo in the select NE guide

things i haven't done but should be fabulous: the eaglet (franc. notch), and the armadillo (katahdin)


jrathfon


Nov 5, 2009, 8:39 AM
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blueeyedclimber's avatar is a 5.8 at the gunks...

in some books.


dreday3000


Nov 5, 2009, 8:42 AM
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I think you should try to stay in fewer areas for longer. At you current clip you will barely scratch the surface each area. My two cents.


blueeyedclimber


Nov 5, 2009, 8:43 AM
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jrathfon wrote:
blueeyedclimber's avatar is a 5.8 at the gunks...

in some books.

And they used to believe that the world was flat. Some things are properly updated with time Tongue


blueeyedclimber


Nov 5, 2009, 8:44 AM
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I can't believe I forgot Arrow and CCK, but I intentionally left off Modern TImes (heh, heh).

Josh


jrathfon


Nov 5, 2009, 8:51 AM
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what, what's so bad about modern times? 5.8+ right? Sly

so when you come down, you have to do muscle shoals, 5.8+ right... i'll lend you a few cams so you can take three #5's and two #6's... haha. 8+ at it's finest. have you done bambi meets godzilla in jtree?


qtm


Nov 5, 2009, 9:58 AM
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dreday3000 wrote:
I think you should try to stay in fewer areas for longer. At you current clip you will barely scratch the surface each area. My two cents.

Especially with a party of three. Since NRG and Seneca aren't too far from you in the first place, I'd skip them and head to the Gunks for a few days. Then NH, and back to the Gunks, and then home, or NRG/Seneca on the way home.


(This post was edited by qtm on Nov 5, 2009, 10:00 AM)


tradmanclimbs


Nov 5, 2009, 10:11 AM
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For a three week trip. a week in the gunks, a week in NH, one day @ rumny to see what that scene is all about and a few days in the ADKs on the way home should be pretty cool. You can hit Seneca, the New etc any time as you allready live down there. GTF out of dodge and try something different.Cool


dudemanbu


Nov 5, 2009, 10:48 AM
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I think you guys have a great idea, but i definitely think that it would be a real shame if you didn't stop in either MA or CT for some good old single pitch trad cragging on your way through.. depending which way you go.

If you go through MA, stop at Farley and/or Crow Hill.

If you go through CT, stop at East Peak and/or Ragged Mountain.

There's tons of 5.8 and easier single pitch trad at these locations, and most of the easier climbs have stars... especially at ragged.


tks


Nov 5, 2009, 11:14 AM
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These are all good suggestions for routes. I lived and climbed in New England for three years before moving down here to NC, and I've done every climb mentioned so far for Seneca, Cathedral, Whitehorse, and Cannon.

Here is my suggestion: pick where you want to go, and then train for those types of routes here in NC. For example, lots of routes at Table Rock feel just like the Thin Air face on Cathedral: lots of edges and slabby moves with a bit of air between placements. Same rack, same moves for the most part.

To train for Cannon, I would run out to cashiers and do the OR on Whitesides. The OR has better rock, but the feeling of big air and exposure is similiar.

I've never climbed the gunks, but the pictures look an awful lot like Shortoff Mountain.

I've never been on anything that felt like/reminded me of Seneca. You're on your own there.

So that's it, train before your trip so that you will feel strong and in your element when you hit the new stuff. The grades in NC seem very close to NH. There aren't any climbs on that list that you should worry about if you're comfortable leading 5.8 down here.

Also, this gives you an excuse/mission to explore linville gorge. Let me know if I can help with any more suggestions or beta.

Tom


villageidiot


Nov 5, 2009, 12:12 PM
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In genera I would recommend going to one or two places, instead of rushing around to several. Doing so seems to make for a more relaxing trip. If you have the gas money I would recommend going west. June/July the west is going to be warm, but the east will hot and humid. I would defineitly try to focus on an ares you can't blast off to the weekend for.

If you do hit up Seneca are the climb's that were particularly memorable for me:

West Pole, 5.7
Climb and Punishment, 5.8
The Burn, 5.8
Ye God's and little fishes, 5.8
Pleasent Overhangs, 5.7
Neck Press, 5.7
Traffic Jam, 5.7 (short)
Exstacy, 5.7 (overated)
Green wall, 5.7 (overated)


hyhuu


Nov 5, 2009, 12:35 PM
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NRG is really a nice area and worth a visit but but beware that there really isn't much trad climbing that is worth while at the grades you are looking for. Unfortunately, the good trad lines at the New start at 5.10.

Now if you do the search I'm sure you'll see a list of easy routes from one of the old post but those climbs, in my personal opinon, are nothing to write home about.


hyhuu


Nov 5, 2009, 12:44 PM
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villageidiot wrote:
In genera I would recommend going to one or two places, instead of rushing around to several. Doing so seems to make for a more relaxing trip. If you have the gas money I would recommend going west. June/July the west is going to be warm, but the east will hot and humid. I would defineitly try to focus on an ares you can't blast off to the weekend for.

If you do hit up Seneca are the climb's that were particularly memorable for me:

West Pole, 5.7
Climb and Punishment, 5.8
The Burn, 5.8
Ye God's and little fishes, 5.8
Pleasent Overhangs, 5.7
Neck Press, 5.7
Traffic Jam, 5.7 (short)
Exstacy, 5.7 (overated)
Green wall, 5.7 (overated)

Agree (at least skip the last two if pressed for time). I would also add Triple S - 5.8, Soler - 5.7, Lichen or Leave It - 5.8 and Conn's East Direct linkup with Alcoa Present (5.8)


lucander


Nov 5, 2009, 2:17 PM
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Buy a guidebook or two:

Peter Lewis & Dave Horowitz, "Classic Climbs in the Northeast" by Mountaineers Press. I've done 3/4 of the routes in here, very one of them was worth basing a day on. This book covers highlights of the best crags: Gunks, Cannon, N. Conway, Cathedral, Whitehorse, Adirondacks. It is best for directions to finding routes and clear topos.

Stewart Green, "Rock Climbing New England" by Falcon Press. This will often be too much information, but it covers the region quite well. Be aware that it does not cover anything in New York, which by region, history, rock, and climbing culture is very much part of "the northeast."

Rumney's a pile, avoid it - especially if you've been to a good sport crag like the Red, New, or Rumblin Bald.

DL


dynosore


Nov 5, 2009, 2:21 PM
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2-3 weeks? Go west young man, go west!


IsayAutumn


Nov 5, 2009, 2:27 PM
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dynosore wrote:
2-3 weeks? Go west young man, go west!

Nah, you should use those 2-3 weeks to visit as many rock gyms on the east coast as possible. Forget climbing outside, that shit can get you killed.


tradmanclimbs


Nov 5, 2009, 5:52 PM
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Stewart green guides suck...
full of missinfo and hearsay..

Yes they should go west at some point but they should also get to know their end of the country first. Let this just be the first roadtrip of manyCool


lucander


Nov 6, 2009, 8:47 AM
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I've climbed extensively throughout New England with Green's book and have nothing to complain about, are you just upset that he included some of Vermont's "secret" crags as well as that gem called Owl's Head in New Hampshire?

Sure, one can buy a number of locally specific books that are better, but the cost will rise. After getting Butterfield's Acadia, Handren's Cathedral & Whitehorse, Webster's New Hampshire, that bad Falcon book on Connecticut, and maybe Smith's Rumney guide you've spent way more than the $35 charged for Rock Climbing New England.

DL
In reply to:


tradmanclimbs


Nov 6, 2009, 9:34 AM
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Naw, stewert pissed me off because he got the beta so wrong on my local crag. I coulkd tell from the description that he had never been there and most likly just talked to the guy from a nearby outdoors store who had not climbed in 20years and even then was just a top roper.


lucander


Nov 6, 2009, 9:52 AM
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I see your point. Maybe Green was following a precedent from the Gunks, where topropers seem to know all of the beta Tongue

By the way, which place was it that he botched, Deer Leep?


DL


tradmanclimbs


Nov 6, 2009, 10:16 AM
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Yes, but it wasen't just deers leap. i looked through my friends book and it seemed like a lot of the places that i knew well he must have goten his beta from phone conversations instead of actually climbing there. I guess i just don't agree with that style of makeing a buck. I much prefer Peter Lewis book for a general north east book. You get the feel that he has actually done the climbs that he talks about.


onceahardman


Nov 6, 2009, 3:08 PM
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eyeklimb wrote:
Hey everyone, I'm looking at taking a trip next summer, and I'm trying to work out the logistics and see just how feasible this all is. I've never really gone on any over night climbing trips besides a 2 nighter at Pilot Mountain in NC, and I now have been given an opportunity to go from NC to NH in either June or July, climbing all along the way. We're looking at taking about 2-3 weeks, and climbing, starting at Linville, then hitting up the New, Seneca, DWG, The Gunks, and finishing out with some NH big wall stuff. Due to the amount of driving we'll be doing and our own personal skill levels, we really arent looking at doing anything more than a 5.8, but instead just getting out and seeing the country, so casual, easy-moderate multi-pitch trad stuff is preferred. All 3 guys going are capable of leading and we can do pretty much the majority of 5.8's and are willing to do a 5.9 pitch if necessary.

The question that has come up with thinking of where all to go, is not the location, but the routes. We're looking at going next summer, so we've definitely got some time to figure things out, but, since we're already talking about it, I'm getting excited, and thought I'd see what the RC.comers have to say about the routes between here and there. I'm willing to put up for the guidebooks to all the places, as I'm sure I will be revisiting each of them. We're mainly looking at multi-pitch trad, and could care less about sport. So, to the regulars of the New, Seneca, DWG, the Gunks, and NH.... what are some of your favorite easy-moderates?

I have looked at each place thoroughly, and I'm having the most trouble with Seneca and NH specifically. There's plenty of info on the Gunks, and we arent having too much trouble picking routes at DWG (at least not that I know of, but then again, that is the point of this post) I understand that right now, I dont really need to be concerned with routes, but it definitely helps fuel the excitement, when I can look at a route, and say to myself, "I'll be on that next summer" ya know?

Also, what are the good guidebooks to invest in for each area, and what's the camping like? Addresses would be the most helpful, so we can plan out driving times and distances, but phone numbers work too.

Any and all help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Chris

Chris...3 weeks on a climbing vacay...I'm jealous. I don't want to sound like a know-it-all, but I'll give you my advice.

I see you are already in NC. Nice climbing there, but you already live there. You can do any route in the state on any given weekend. Hit the road.

The gunks are really fun. They have (to me) kind of a "single-pitch cragging" feel to them, even though many routes are full-length. There are years worth of quality routes to pick from.

IMO, you'd be making a mistake to not go to the Adirondacks. (watch the weather). Similar in size and scale of climbing possiblities to NH, with a less "famous" history, but still an interesting one. Go to pok-o-moonshine, similar in size to cathedral ledge, and do "Gamesmanship" a sweet 4 pitch 5.8. The Diagonal on Wallface will give you a wildernessy kind of route, with some adventurous routefinding, at the same grade. Hesitation on the Washbowl Cliff. Chapel Pond slab. Quadrophenia on Hurricane crag.

You will not likely have to wait in line here, like you will for the Gunks classics, and maybe even in NH.

Quite a bit of free camping. Not a real central "scene" here, like the Uberfall at the gunks, but you'll see other climbers around, especially in the Chapel Pond area.

Tremendous new guidebook. "adirondack rock"...one of the most studious efforts at a big guidebook I've ever seen, with a well-research history, gps coordinates, and good "beta" on the area.

I'm not saying the "dacks" are better than the gunks, they aren't. But they are well worth a stop.
http://adirondackrock.com


curt


Nov 6, 2009, 5:36 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
I can't believe I forgot Arrow and CCK, but I intentionally left off Modern TImes (heh, heh).

Josh

I'm even more surprised you forgot to mention "Madam G's," since you mentioned High Exposure and Disneyland.

Curt


tradmanclimbs


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If you are in the daks before august 1st you MUST check the bird closures on the states website. they are absolutly Psyco with the effin bird closures over there. They close whole cliffs and large sections of Poco. additionaly if you are looking for 5.8 @ poco you Will wait in line.

2 of the best 5.8 in the daks are on washbowl. Overture and Hessitation. Washbowl is often closed for birds. Nh is awsome with their bird closures. They work with the climbers instead of against them.


olderic


Nov 6, 2009, 7:04 PM
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Re: [tradmanclimbs] Eastern U.S. hitlist suggestions... [In reply to]
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I agree with Nick on this one. He spent very little effort researching a little local crag, Crow Hill, and botched the result. The specific guides are best but even what you can get off the Web is better.


blueeyedclimber


Nov 9, 2009, 5:02 AM
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curt wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
I can't believe I forgot Arrow and CCK, but I intentionally left off Modern TImes (heh, heh).

Josh

I'm even more surprised you forgot to mention "Madam G's," since you mentioned High Exposure and Disneyland.

Curt

Ooops.

There's probably a lot more I forgot. That's what's great about the GUnks (although it does lead to crowds), it is the only place that I know of that has a lifetime of classic moderates.

Josh


eyeklimb


Nov 9, 2009, 11:56 AM
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Thanks so much for the overwhelming response everybody. I'm slowly starting to see what could get done next summer during this trip, and it's getting me excited. Does anyone have any info on the Delaware Water Gap? Specifically Mount Tammany and Mount Minsi? I'm mainly thinking of swinging through there on the way between Seneca and the Gunks. After talking to my friends, we're probably going to skip the New, but still go by Seneca for a day or 2, and would like to have a good place to stop before hitting the Gunks. Is DWG worth stopping by? Or is there another place in PA that would be better for easy-moderate multi-pitch?

Thanks again guys.


Chris


tks


Nov 9, 2009, 12:46 PM
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I don't know anything about climbing in the Delaware Water Gap, but the Appalachian Mountain Club does have a facility there. I believe it is called Camp Mohican, but it's on the website (outdoors.org).


TradEddie


Nov 9, 2009, 6:24 PM
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Cons of DWG
-Interstate noise (deafening).
-Interstate noise (still deafening).
-Limited quantity of good routes at any given grade.
-Loose rock. (not bad on 'popular' routes)

Pros
-You may be the only people there. No parking problems, no waiting in line, no entrance fees, nobody dropping rocks/gear/cameras/bottles/trees on you, no barking dogs, no radios, no chalked holds, no sign that anyone has ever climbed the route before you. No asking the guy beside you for beta, nobody offering beta. Nobody asking what route you are on, nobody for you to ask what route they are on. Nobody rapping down on your head, or climbing up your ass.

-Stashing a drink in the cold air cave on a hot summer day.

TE


joeforte


Nov 9, 2009, 6:55 PM
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Stashing drinks in the cold air cave! Great idea, although I tend to avoid the water gap in the summer.

To the OP, the water gap is great, for all the reasons mentioned above, and as a matter of fact, I stopped going to the gunks (3 hr drive) and now just go the the water gap for multipitch (30 min drive). That said, I think you should pass it by, and keep heading north. The approach is hellish in the summer (full sun, steep relentless talus, poison ivy).

I think you should spend as much time as possible in the adirondacks and new hampshire. The temps will be much cooler up there, as long as the blackflies aren't too bad. If they are bad, the gunks provides some relief usually. Definitely check out Mount Willard in NH (climb "Across the universe"to avoid crowds in North Conway, it's barely a .10 and super fun).

If you were looking for a place to crash in PA, I can hook you up. There's also a super good single-pitch trad crag 5 mins from my house, if you want a change from the multipitch routine. Tons of good steep crack climbs there.

Have fun! -Joe


dynobelay


Nov 10, 2009, 12:06 AM
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Too bad you're passing on the New.

If you have to stop at DWG, camp at Worthington State Park. Take a swim if its hot.
If you climb, either; Minsi- Osprey & Cheiftain
or Tammany- Corkscrew & Double Overhang


tradmanclimbs


Nov 10, 2009, 4:27 AM
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man up and drive straight from seneca to the gunks. It's only about 8hrs.


cfnubbler


Nov 10, 2009, 5:53 AM
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Re: [lucander] Eastern U.S. hitlist suggestions... [In reply to]
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lucander wrote:
I've climbed extensively throughout New England with Green's book and have nothing to complain about, are you just upset that he included some of Vermont's "secret" crags as well as that gem called Owl's Head in New Hampshire?
DL
In reply to:

The Vt. Crags he included are by no means secret. What got me worked up about it is that the information about them he provided is either out and out wrong (take the Smugglers' Notch section for example), or blatantly plagerized from other sources (Lower West Bolton, for one).


tradmanclimbs


Nov 10, 2009, 12:43 PM
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according to Stewert green the locals don't like you useing chalk @ deer leap?? that tells me that he talked to the owner of a local outdoor shop on the phone who has not climbed in 25 years and when he did climb he was a top roper. I deduce this because he is the only person who ever told me you couldn't use chalk there.. anywaysthe no chalk thing is absurd and the beta goes downhill from there... Why bother writeing about an area if you are going to do such a shabby job of it.


Alpine07


Nov 10, 2009, 12:59 PM
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There are a lot of great suggestions on this thread. Though on the east coast, Cannon is where its at. Huntington Ravine also has some pretty sick climbing. Oh, and if you are coming through PA, don't waste your time stopping, blast right through and have more time at a much better spot.


blueeyedclimber


Nov 10, 2009, 5:01 PM
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Re: [lucander] Eastern U.S. hitlist suggestions... [In reply to]
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lucander wrote:
I've climbed extensively throughout New England with Green's book and have nothing to complain about, are you just upset that he included some of Vermont's "secret" crags as well as that gem called Owl's Head in New Hampshire?

Sure, one can buy a number of locally specific books that are better, but the cost will rise. After getting Butterfield's Acadia, Handren's Cathedral & Whitehorse, Webster's New Hampshire, that bad Falcon book on Connecticut, and maybe Smith's Rumney guide you've spent way more than the $35 charged for Rock Climbing New England.

DL
In reply to:

Yeah, you may be poorer, but at least you'll make it to the crag. The book is full of mistakes. I find it hard to believe that you have used it extensively and have not found one.

Josh


lucander


Nov 12, 2009, 4:33 AM
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C'mon, it's not difficult to find cliffs in New England - it's not like they're far away or anything. When I think about it, the only time the aforementioned text steered me wrong was my first trip to Ragged Mountain. The author, Mr. Greene, had me park at a golf course and walk 30 minutes through suburban streets and yards to get to the cliff. I understand that at the time of publication there were concerns about parking and access at this crag that have since been corrected. Still, I used to book to climb at Cathedral, Cannon, Whitehorse, Sundown, Rumney, Crawford Notch, Acadia, Ragged, East Peak, Rose Ledge, Crow Hill, Rattlesnake Gutter, and more. My experience with this book makes me believe that it is a valuable, convenient, and readily available resource for visiting climbers.

DL


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