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How many trad lead falls have you taken?
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thenose


Feb 8, 2010, 3:07 AM
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Registered: Feb 19, 2009
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STOP BEING A BUNCH OF PUSSYS AND MAN UP. CHECK THIS SHIT OUT. SO THE OTHER DAY I WAS ON EL CAP DOING A HALF DAY PUSH / FIRST ACCENT OF “BLOW ME YOU GAY SPORT CLIMBER, VI A5 (R/X)”. MY PARTNER AND I WERE LINKING PITCHES WITH AN 80M ROPE. I WAS ON PITCH 34, ABOUT 250 FEET OUT. THIS WAS THE CRUX PITCH. IT WAS A BIT DANGEROUS BUT I AM NOT A PUSSY LIKE YOU TOOLS SO I WAS ABLE TO HANDLE IT.

RIGHT OUT OF THE BELAY STATION YOU HAVE TO FIFI HOOK YOUR ASS UP ABOUT 50 FEET BEFORE YOU GET THE FIRST PIECE IN. THEN YOU CAN GET IN A WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE. THE NEXT 100 FEET MAINLY INVOLVE SOME 5.14 FREE CLIMBING WITH RURP’S FOR PRO. THEN ONCE YOU HIT THE 200 FOOT MARK YOU GET TO A NICE MONO YOU CAN HANG OFF AND REST ON. AT THAT POINT YOU POUND IN ONE RURP, ONE PICKER AND YOU CAN DUCK TAPE ONE CLIFFHANGER TO THE WALL ON A MICRO CRIMP AND THEN YOU GO FOR IT. THE NEXT 80 FEET HIT YOU HARD…

OVER THE NEXT 80 FEET YOU HAVE A FLARING, 2 MM DEEP BOTTOMING CRACK AND NOT A THING MORE. ALL YOU CAN DO IS POUND RURP AFTER RURP IN THE CRACK AND HOPE THEY HOLD. FOR A MOMENT I GOT A BIT SCARED BECAUSE YOU CAN ONLY GET THE RURP’S IN ABOUT 3 MM BUT THEN I THOUGHT OF ALL THE PUSSY 5.12 SPORT CLIMBERS OUT THERE AND I INSTANTLY FELT BETTER.

AFTER ABOUT 70 FEET OF NOTHING BUT RURP’S I HIT A SECTION OF 5.14C/D WHICH INVOLVED AN 8 FOOT DYNO OFF OF MY AIDER ATTACHED TO A SPECTRE ICE PITON HANGING ON A FLARING CRIMP TO A BOTTOMING MONO POCKET ON A ROOF. I YELLED DOWN TO MY BELAYER REQUESTING SLACK AND I WENT FOR IT. I NAILED THE DYNO AND THE POCKET BUT IT TURNS OUT THERE WAS STILL SOME ICE IN THE MONO FROM THE WINTER SEASON SO I SLIPPED RIGHT OFF. I FELL DOWN TO MY FIRST RURP, POP, SECOND RURP, POP, AND SO ON AND SO ON. ALL IN ALL I FELL ABOUT 325 FEET, RIPPING 42 PIECES OF PRO INCLUDING 29 RURP’S, TWO HOOKS TAPED TO THE WALL, 7 WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE’S, AND AN ASSORTMENT OF OTHER MICRO GEAR.

NOW SACK UP AND KEEP IT MANLY!


(This post was edited by thenose on Feb 8, 2010, 3:09 AM)


airscape


Feb 8, 2010, 4:27 AM
Post #102 of 108 (2903 views)
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Registered: Feb 26, 2001
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Re: [thenose] How many trad lead falls have you taken? [In reply to]
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I'M NOT READING THAT!!!

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!


Partner epoch
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Feb 8, 2010, 6:21 AM
Post #103 of 108 (2889 views)
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Registered: Apr 27, 2005
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Caps lock = Cruise control?


Partner camhead


Feb 9, 2010, 9:20 AM
Post #104 of 108 (2851 views)
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20939

Re: [thenose] How many trad lead falls have you taken? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
STOP BEING A BUNCH OF PUSSYS AND MAN UP. CHECK THIS SHIT OUT. SO THE OTHER DAY I WAS ON EL CAP DOING A HALF DAY PUSH / FIRST ACCENT OF “BLOW ME YOU GAY SPORT CLIMBER, VI A5 (R/X)”. MY PARTNER AND I WERE LINKING PITCHES WITH AN 80M ROPE. I WAS ON PITCH 34, ABOUT 250 FEET OUT. THIS WAS THE CRUX PITCH. IT WAS A BIT DANGEROUS BUT I AM NOT A PUSSY LIKE YOU TOOLS SO I WAS ABLE TO HANDLE IT.

RIGHT OUT OF THE BELAY STATION YOU HAVE TO FIFI HOOK YOUR ASS UP ABOUT 50 FEET BEFORE YOU GET THE FIRST PIECE IN. THEN YOU CAN GET IN A WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE. THE NEXT 100 FEET MAINLY INVOLVE SOME 5.14 FREE CLIMBING WITH RURP’S FOR PRO. THEN ONCE YOU HIT THE 200 FOOT MARK YOU GET TO A NICE MONO YOU CAN HANG OFF AND REST ON. AT THAT POINT YOU POUND IN ONE RURP, ONE PICKER AND YOU CAN DUCK TAPE ONE CLIFFHANGER TO THE WALL ON A MICRO CRIMP AND THEN YOU GO FOR IT. THE NEXT 80 FEET HIT YOU HARD…

OVER THE NEXT 80 FEET YOU HAVE A FLARING, 2 MM DEEP BOTTOMING CRACK AND NOT A THING MORE. ALL YOU CAN DO IS POUND RURP AFTER RURP IN THE CRACK AND HOPE THEY HOLD. FOR A MOMENT I GOT A BIT SCARED BECAUSE YOU CAN ONLY GET THE RURP’S IN ABOUT 3 MM BUT THEN I THOUGHT OF ALL THE PUSSY 5.12 SPORT CLIMBERS OUT THERE AND I INSTANTLY FELT BETTER.

AFTER ABOUT 70 FEET OF NOTHING BUT RURP’S I HIT A SECTION OF 5.14C/D WHICH INVOLVED AN 8 FOOT DYNO OFF OF MY AIDER ATTACHED TO A SPECTRE ICE PITON HANGING ON A FLARING CRIMP TO A BOTTOMING MONO POCKET ON A ROOF. I YELLED DOWN TO MY BELAYER REQUESTING SLACK AND I WENT FOR IT. I NAILED THE DYNO AND THE POCKET BUT IT TURNS OUT THERE WAS STILL SOME ICE IN THE MONO FROM THE WINTER SEASON SO I SLIPPED RIGHT OFF. I FELL DOWN TO MY FIRST RURP, POP, SECOND RURP, POP, AND SO ON AND SO ON. ALL IN ALL I FELL ABOUT 325 FEET, RIPPING 42 PIECES OF PRO INCLUDING 29 RURP’S, TWO HOOKS TAPED TO THE WALL, 7 WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE’S, AND AN ASSORTMENT OF OTHER MICRO GEAR.

NOW SACK UP AND KEEP IT MANLY!

You are no Burt Bronson. Burt Bronson would not have fallen.


alpenweg


Feb 10, 2010, 11:15 PM
Post #105 of 108 (2816 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2007
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Re: [shimanilami] How many trad lead falls have you taken? [In reply to]
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you pitched on the pillar in j.t.?

wow man how did it come out?

ernest


guangzhou


Feb 15, 2010, 12:56 AM
Post #106 of 108 (2756 views)
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Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [alpenweg] How many trad lead falls have you taken? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
5.11 or harder gear climbers I know who don't boulder fairly regularly = 0%

Can't be zero, I don't boulder much and achieve the grade. Boudelring is normally something I do at he end of the day is I happen to walk by something that looks kool.


mar_leclerc


Feb 15, 2010, 9:42 AM
Post #107 of 108 (2726 views)
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Registered: May 31, 2008
Posts: 156

Re: [thenose] How many trad lead falls have you taken? [In reply to]
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thenose wrote:
STOP BEING A BUNCH OF PUSSYS AND MAN UP. CHECK THIS SHIT OUT. SO THE OTHER DAY I WAS ON EL CAP DOING A HALF DAY PUSH / FIRST ACCENT OF “BLOW ME YOU GAY SPORT CLIMBER, VI A5 (R/X)”. MY PARTNER AND I WERE LINKING PITCHES WITH AN 80M ROPE. I WAS ON PITCH 34, ABOUT 250 FEET OUT. THIS WAS THE CRUX PITCH. IT WAS A BIT DANGEROUS BUT I AM NOT A PUSSY LIKE YOU TOOLS SO I WAS ABLE TO HANDLE IT.

RIGHT OUT OF THE BELAY STATION YOU HAVE TO FIFI HOOK YOUR ASS UP ABOUT 50 FEET BEFORE YOU GET THE FIRST PIECE IN. THEN YOU CAN GET IN A WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE. THE NEXT 100 FEET MAINLY INVOLVE SOME 5.14 FREE CLIMBING WITH RURP’S FOR PRO. THEN ONCE YOU HIT THE 200 FOOT MARK YOU GET TO A NICE MONO YOU CAN HANG OFF AND REST ON. AT THAT POINT YOU POUND IN ONE RURP, ONE PICKER AND YOU CAN DUCK TAPE ONE CLIFFHANGER TO THE WALL ON A MICRO CRIMP AND THEN YOU GO FOR IT. THE NEXT 80 FEET HIT YOU HARD…

OVER THE NEXT 80 FEET YOU HAVE A FLARING, 2 MM DEEP BOTTOMING CRACK AND NOT A THING MORE. ALL YOU CAN DO IS POUND RURP AFTER RURP IN THE CRACK AND HOPE THEY HOLD. FOR A MOMENT I GOT A BIT SCARED BECAUSE YOU CAN ONLY GET THE RURP’S IN ABOUT 3 MM BUT THEN I THOUGHT OF ALL THE PUSSY 5.12 SPORT CLIMBERS OUT THERE AND I INSTANTLY FELT BETTER.

AFTER ABOUT 70 FEET OF NOTHING BUT RURP’S I HIT A SECTION OF 5.14C/D WHICH INVOLVED AN 8 FOOT DYNO OFF OF MY AIDER ATTACHED TO A SPECTRE ICE PITON HANGING ON A FLARING CRIMP TO A BOTTOMING MONO POCKET ON A ROOF. I YELLED DOWN TO MY BELAYER REQUESTING SLACK AND I WENT FOR IT. I NAILED THE DYNO AND THE POCKET BUT IT TURNS OUT THERE WAS STILL SOME ICE IN THE MONO FROM THE WINTER SEASON SO I SLIPPED RIGHT OFF. I FELL DOWN TO MY FIRST RURP, POP, SECOND RURP, POP, AND SO ON AND SO ON. ALL IN ALL I FELL ABOUT 325 FEET, RIPPING 42 PIECES OF PRO INCLUDING 29 RURP’S, TWO HOOKS TAPED TO THE WALL, 7 WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE’S, AND AN ASSORTMENT OF OTHER MICRO GEAR.

NOW SACK UP AND KEEP IT MANLY!

Good story... but fifi hooks arent actually used on the rock, just on your daisy. But ten again you are so hardcore that you probably used fif hooks for direct aid anyways. I am in awe of your badassness.


guangzhou


Feb 28, 2010, 10:59 PM
Post #108 of 108 (2632 views)
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Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [mar_leclerc] How many trad lead falls have you taken? [In reply to]
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mar_leclerc wrote:
thenose wrote:
STOP BEING A BUNCH OF PUSSYS AND MAN UP. CHECK THIS SHIT OUT. SO THE OTHER DAY I WAS ON EL CAP DOING A HALF DAY PUSH / FIRST ACCENT OF “BLOW ME YOU GAY SPORT CLIMBER, VI A5 (R/X)”. MY PARTNER AND I WERE LINKING PITCHES WITH AN 80M ROPE. I WAS ON PITCH 34, ABOUT 250 FEET OUT. THIS WAS THE CRUX PITCH. IT WAS A BIT DANGEROUS BUT I AM NOT A PUSSY LIKE YOU TOOLS SO I WAS ABLE TO HANDLE IT.

RIGHT OUT OF THE BELAY STATION YOU HAVE TO FIFI HOOK YOUR ASS UP ABOUT 50 FEET BEFORE YOU GET THE FIRST PIECE IN. THEN YOU CAN GET IN A WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE. THE NEXT 100 FEET MAINLY INVOLVE SOME 5.14 FREE CLIMBING WITH RURP’S FOR PRO. THEN ONCE YOU HIT THE 200 FOOT MARK YOU GET TO A NICE MONO YOU CAN HANG OFF AND REST ON. AT THAT POINT YOU POUND IN ONE RURP, ONE PICKER AND YOU CAN DUCK TAPE ONE CLIFFHANGER TO THE WALL ON A MICRO CRIMP AND THEN YOU GO FOR IT. THE NEXT 80 FEET HIT YOU HARD…

OVER THE NEXT 80 FEET YOU HAVE A FLARING, 2 MM DEEP BOTTOMING CRACK AND NOT A THING MORE. ALL YOU CAN DO IS POUND RURP AFTER RURP IN THE CRACK AND HOPE THEY HOLD. FOR A MOMENT I GOT A BIT SCARED BECAUSE YOU CAN ONLY GET THE RURP’S IN ABOUT 3 MM BUT THEN I THOUGHT OF ALL THE PUSSY 5.12 SPORT CLIMBERS OUT THERE AND I INSTANTLY FELT BETTER.

AFTER ABOUT 70 FEET OF NOTHING BUT RURP’S I HIT A SECTION OF 5.14C/D WHICH INVOLVED AN 8 FOOT DYNO OFF OF MY AIDER ATTACHED TO A SPECTRE ICE PITON HANGING ON A FLARING CRIMP TO A BOTTOMING MONO POCKET ON A ROOF. I YELLED DOWN TO MY BELAYER REQUESTING SLACK AND I WENT FOR IT. I NAILED THE DYNO AND THE POCKET BUT IT TURNS OUT THERE WAS STILL SOME ICE IN THE MONO FROM THE WINTER SEASON SO I SLIPPED RIGHT OFF. I FELL DOWN TO MY FIRST RURP, POP, SECOND RURP, POP, AND SO ON AND SO ON. ALL IN ALL I FELL ABOUT 325 FEET, RIPPING 42 PIECES OF PRO INCLUDING 29 RURP’S, TWO HOOKS TAPED TO THE WALL, 7 WILD COUNTRY ZERO NUMBER ONE’S, AND AN ASSORTMENT OF OTHER MICRO GEAR.

NOW SACK UP AND KEEP IT MANLY!

Good story... but fifi hooks arent actually used on the rock, just on your daisy. But ten again you are so hardcore that you probably used fif hooks for direct aid anyways. I am in awe of your badassness.

Actually, fifi hooks can be used on rocks pretty well. Not what they are most often used for, but ...

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