Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
An anchor to analyze
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next page Last page  View All


dingus


Nov 9, 2009, 4:26 PM
Post #26 of 159 (3396 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17391

Re: [vegastradguy] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

LOL I've belayed my kids off worse than that haha.

If they climbed on Malcom in the Middle it would be like my family!

DMT


johnwesely


Nov 9, 2009, 4:36 PM
Post #27 of 159 (3386 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [jt512] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jt512 wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
The biggest issue is that Jay probably set the thing up himself.

I didn't set the anchor up. It was an actual top rope anchor set up by another climber, as I wrote in the OP.

Jay

I know that. I could tell you weren't trolling because none of the draws are Petzl Spirits.


johnwesely


Nov 9, 2009, 4:37 PM
Post #28 of 159 (3385 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [dingus] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
LOL I've belayed my kids off worse than that haha.

If they climbed on Malcom in the Middle it would be like my family!

DMT

If you had to pick either Dewey, Reese or Francis to set an anchor for you, who would you pick and why?


dugl33


Nov 9, 2009, 4:56 PM
Post #29 of 159 (3372 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [jt512] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not textbook, but adequate...

pros:
1.) individual placements look solid. (Parallel cracks and cams at mid expansion range or better, in direction of pull)
2.) rock looks solid
3.) not really equalized, but not major shock-loading if a piece fails

cons:
1.) equalization could obviously be better
2.) no opposed biners or locker at rope
3.) nose of black draw pushing into the rock
4.) gear is old -- old style .75 camalot, rigid stem friend.
5.) biner on biner chains, not ideal, but not the end of the world.

easy minor improvement would be to clip the draw from the chain of draws connecting to the nut straight into the draw with the green gate.

I'd be happier with a cordellete (despite its imperfect equalization) with opposed biners, but this anchor wouldn't freak me out upon arrival. I've seen much worse.

Side note, I've seen a biner unclip from a bolt, of its own accord, once. Of course this is once in many years of climbing, but hey, shit happens.

Also, recently, witnessed a euro climber routinely clip his draws to his cams racking biners while on lead. He could have easily clipped the cam sling, but didn't. This was not a one time occurence. Somehow it was like fingernails on a chalkboard to watch...


TradEddie


Nov 9, 2009, 5:19 PM
Post #30 of 159 (3345 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 164

Re: [jt512] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My 6yo could easily try unclipping a biner or two - just to see what happens...
Even opposite and opposed just isn't enough deterrent. Lockers, everywhere.

TE


west_by_god_virginia


Nov 9, 2009, 5:31 PM
Post #31 of 159 (3335 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 4, 2009
Posts: 104

Re: [jt512] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

THIS LOOKS LIKE SHIT. I would never climb with anyone who deemed this even remotely safe, much less SERENE enough top put his fucking children on it.


GO DARWIN!Angelic


dugl33


Nov 9, 2009, 5:35 PM
Post #32 of 159 (3332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [west_by_god_virginia] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

west_by_god_virginia wrote:
THIS LOOKS LIKE SHIT. I would never climb with anyone who deemed this even remotely safe, much less SERENE enough top put his fucking children on it.


GO DARWIN!Angelic

Yeah, sure, but you were worried about using a full strength biner just because it had held your keys for a spell.


code08


Nov 9, 2009, 5:46 PM
Post #33 of 159 (3310 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 2, 2009
Posts: 41

Re: [johnwesely] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
dingus wrote:
LOL I've belayed my kids off worse than that haha.

If they climbed on Malcom in the Middle it would be like my family!

DMT

If you had to pick either Dewey, Reese or Francis to set an anchor for you, who would you pick and why?

I would pick Dewey because he probably is the nicest, probably not the smartest but he would put something together that would hold I'm sure. Reese would just mess things up and Francis is kind of a wild card. Malcom would probably be the best although he might over engineer the anchor making it way to complex and annoying to take down plus he wasn't one of your options.


Partner epoch
Moderator

Nov 9, 2009, 5:53 PM
Post #34 of 159 (3299 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2005
Posts: 32071

Re: [west_by_god_virginia] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

west_by_god_virginia wrote:
GO DARWIN!Angelic

I've made worse...


west_by_god_virginia


Nov 9, 2009, 5:54 PM
Post #35 of 159 (3296 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 4, 2009
Posts: 104

Re: [epoch] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

im sure you have. but with children? im fine with people hurting themselves, but kids?


(This post was edited by west_by_god_virginia on Nov 9, 2009, 5:55 PM)


kylekienitz


Nov 9, 2009, 5:59 PM
Post #36 of 159 (3285 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 24, 2005
Posts: 256

Re: [dingus] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
kylekienitz wrote:
In effect it is a two piece anchor with a backup.

Otherwise known as a 3-piece anchor.

DMT

Well, yeah that's true. However, usually when I think of a three piece anchor all three pieces play a role in absorbing the load.


johnwesely


Nov 9, 2009, 6:02 PM
Post #37 of 159 (3280 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [west_by_god_virginia] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

west_by_god_virginia wrote:
im sure you have. but with children? im fine with people hurting themselves, but kids?

You were just excited at the prospect of the child being a candidate for a Darwin award.


notapplicable


Nov 9, 2009, 6:10 PM
Post #38 of 159 (3268 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17766

Re: [dingus] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
kylekienitz wrote:
In effect it is a two piece anchor with a backup.

Otherwise known as a 3-piece anchor.

DMT

I feel bad giving a pittance of 5 stars for a trophy worthy post but alas, it is all I have.


dugl33


Nov 9, 2009, 6:13 PM
Post #39 of 159 (3263 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [west_by_god_virginia] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

west_by_god_virginia wrote:
im sure you have. but with children? im fine with people hurting themselves, but kids?

Under exactly what scenario or scenarios do you foresee this anchor resulting in catastrophic failure?

I'm just not seeing it....


johnwesely


Nov 9, 2009, 6:24 PM
Post #40 of 159 (3242 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [dugl33] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

dugl33 wrote:
west_by_god_virginia wrote:
im sure you have. but with children? im fine with people hurting themselves, but kids?

Under exactly what scenario or scenarios do you foresee this anchor resulting in catastrophic failure?

I'm just not seeing it....

Ok, it's a stretch, but bear with me. The kid is backclipped and decides to climb above the anchor. He slips and the draw comes unclipped for the non opposed carabiners. He lands in a bush and his fine. His dad thinks the whole thing is an unlikely coincidence and sets up another similar anchor on another climb. However, the kid does not want to climb anymore, and the gear is put on Ebay where the owner says that it has taken no lead falls. West_By_God_Virginia purchases the gear for twenty dollars. In transit the gear is exposed to battery acid. West_By_God_Virginia uses the gear to go spelunking, and it fails. He gets stuck in the cave.


west_by_god_virginia


Nov 9, 2009, 6:29 PM
Post #41 of 159 (3239 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 4, 2009
Posts: 104

Re: [dugl33] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

who knows, why not build something bomb-proof?


dugl33


Nov 9, 2009, 6:31 PM
Post #42 of 159 (3237 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [johnwesely] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
dugl33 wrote:
west_by_god_virginia wrote:
im sure you have. but with children? im fine with people hurting themselves, but kids?

Under exactly what scenario or scenarios do you foresee this anchor resulting in catastrophic failure?

I'm just not seeing it....

Ok, it's a stretch, but bear with me. The kid is backclipped and decides to climb above the anchor. He slips and the draw comes unclipped for the non opposed carabiners. He lands in a bush and his fine. His dad thinks the whole thing is an unlikely coincidence and sets up another similar anchor on another climb. However, the kid does not want to climb anymore, and the gear is put on Ebay where the owner says that it has taken no lead falls. West_By_God_Virginia purchases the gear for twenty dollars. In transit the gear is exposed to battery acid. West_By_God_Virginia uses the gear to go spelunking, and it fails. He gets stuck in the cave.

+2

Absolutely, kid climbs on right hand rope, runs it out above the anchor, dives off to the left, rope unclips both draws.

The only way out of the cave is to make use of the biner holding her keys, via a bachmann. This is deemed too dangerous, and a rescue team is called. Unfortunately, the rescue team is too hammered on West Virginia moonshine to respond until the following morning, which, luckily, is a sunday.


west_by_god_virginia


Nov 9, 2009, 6:44 PM
Post #43 of 159 (3212 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 4, 2009
Posts: 104

Re: [dugl33] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dugl33 wrote:
The only way out of the cave is to make use of the biner holding her keys, via a bachmann. This is deemed too dangerous, and a rescue team is called. Unfortunately, the rescue team is too hammered on West Virginia moonshine to respond until the following morning, which, luckily, is a sunday.

there are so many other ways out of a cave.


johnwesely


Nov 9, 2009, 6:53 PM
Post #44 of 159 (3200 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [west_by_god_virginia] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

west_by_god_virginia wrote:
dugl33 wrote:
The only way out of the cave is to make use of the biner holding her keys, via a bachmann. This is deemed too dangerous, and a rescue team is called. Unfortunately, the rescue team is too hammered on West Virginia moonshine to respond until the following morning, which, luckily, is a sunday.

there are so many other ways out of a cave.

O RLY? The cave in my story was actually hell. There is no way out!!!


dugl33


Nov 9, 2009, 6:54 PM
Post #45 of 159 (3199 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740

Re: [west_by_god_virginia] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

west_by_god_virginia wrote:
dugl33 wrote:
The only way out of the cave is to make use of the biner holding her keys, via a bachmann. This is deemed too dangerous, and a rescue team is called. Unfortunately, the rescue team is too hammered on West Virginia moonshine to respond until the following morning, which, luckily, is a sunday.

there are so many other ways out of a cave.

If you're Gollum...




reno


Nov 9, 2009, 6:56 PM
Post #46 of 159 (3192 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283

Re: [epoch] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

epoch wrote:
west_by_god_virginia wrote:
GO DARWIN!Angelic

I've made worse...

I've FALLEN on worse.

Not ideal, not a death trap (given what we can see regarding the piece placements.)


sauce


Nov 9, 2009, 7:05 PM
Post #47 of 159 (3179 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2005
Posts: 4

Re: [dugl33] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Seriously??

This is an absolute pile of crap.

I can't imagine putting my child on an "anchor" like that EVER, but then again I care very deeply for my son.

Personally, I would have felt obligated to offer some sort of assistance.


dingus


Nov 9, 2009, 7:18 PM
Post #48 of 159 (3145 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17391

Re: [johnwesely] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
dingus wrote:
LOL I've belayed my kids off worse than that haha.

If they climbed on Malcom in the Middle it would be like my family!

DMT

If you had to pick either Dewey, Reese or Francis to set an anchor for you, who would you pick and why?

I'd pick the Mom. Her anchors never fail and she's the toughest one of the bunch. I never watched a whole episode not even in rerruns but the Burning Man one. And that was legendary!

DMT


dingus


Nov 9, 2009, 7:19 PM
Post #49 of 159 (3145 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17391

Re: [west_by_god_virginia] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

west_by_god_virginia wrote:
THIS LOOKS LIKE SHIT. I would never climb with anyone who deemed this even remotely safe, much less SERENE enough top put his fucking children on it.


GO DARWIN!Angelic

His fucking children says the little man from the safety of the internet.

DMT


dingus


Nov 9, 2009, 7:20 PM
Post #50 of 159 (3142 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17391

Re: [kylekienitz] An anchor to analyze [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kylekienitz wrote:
dingus wrote:
kylekienitz wrote:
In effect it is a two piece anchor with a backup.

Otherwise known as a 3-piece anchor.

DMT

Well, yeah that's true. However, usually when I think of a three piece anchor all three pieces play a role in absorbing the load.

That is an illusion I assure you.

DMT

First page Previous page 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook