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onrockandice


Dec 14, 2009, 8:33 PM
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Re: [camhead] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
or "Wow, my gear was really good there"

I always have great gear it's when I place it that things start to get dicey. The one that made me laugh so hard my belayer thought I was hurt was when I casually put in a cam to weight it while I searched my rack for something. I should have paid more attention. It blew and pasted me right on top of the head. Right on that part of your head where no matter what hits you or how hard it hits you it still hurts down in your toes. (Bought a helmet that day when I got back in town.) So it blew, crushed my brain, I fell and was laughing my ass off.

I thought the whole thing was funny. My belayer thought I was seriously hurt. Things didn't improve much. I laughed too hard and got the hiccups.

Climbing with hiccups totally sucks. I mean it just sucks. Now look what you've done. I've made it look like I have a bad attitude. Stupid hiccups.Cool


(This post was edited by onrockandice on Dec 14, 2009, 8:34 PM)


USnavy


Dec 14, 2009, 8:49 PM
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Re: [jcrew] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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ClimbClimb wrote:
USnavy wrote:
There are plenty of people who climb here but most are not very committed and just climb on a light recreational basis. ...

So in the end its not an issue of how skilled any of my partners are on the rock, its an issue of safety, reliability, and motivation. .


Basically, it sounds like people in Hawaii are laid-back, true to stereotype. ;-)

Good post.

Well Hawaiians are. However in two years I have only seen one Hawaiian climber here. Just about everyone else moved here from the continental US.

jcrew wrote:

those "dedicated to the sport" move to boulder. dedicated surfers move to hawaii. you're trying to shove a square peg into a round hole.

this may be one of your problems:

In the military one cannot say, I want to move to 36.349421,-115.169678. You submit four general requests and the Navy will try to match you up to something similar to one of them. For me I was given the choice to move to Hawaii. It was basically move to Hawaii or go to some boring base in Florida.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Dec 14, 2009, 8:56 PM)


jcrew


Dec 14, 2009, 8:54 PM
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Re: [mtnjohn] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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mtnjohn wrote:
True enough and yet it is a sport climber who has posted "The laws of climbing"

chris sharma is a sport climber....

usnavy is ...well...something else


rockforlife


Dec 14, 2009, 9:45 PM
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Re: [jcrew] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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jcrew wrote:
climbing in hawaii sounds like trying to be a hard-core surfer in phoneix.

blueeyedclimber wrote:
Now, hop on a boat and move to California.Tongue

ummm.....the climbing is not very good in cali.....i heard duluth is the new power base.

Mad hey the climbing is getting better and better here, and when its not -40* with three feet of snow Coolthere is some world class climbing.


jcrew


Dec 15, 2009, 8:40 AM
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Re: [rockforlife] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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rockforlife wrote:
jcrew wrote:
climbing in hawaii sounds like trying to be a hard-core surfer in phoneix.

blueeyedclimber wrote:
Now, hop on a boat and move to California.Tongue

ummm.....the climbing is not very good in cali.....i heard duluth is the new power base.

Mad hey the climbing is getting better and better here, and when its not -40* with three feet of snow Coolthere is some world class climbing.

i was serious....chadnsc enlightened me.


dingus


Dec 15, 2009, 8:46 AM
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Re: [USnavy] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
In the military one cannot say, I want to move to 36.349421,-115.169678. You submit four general requests and the Navy will try to match you up to something similar to one of them. For me I was given the choice to move to Hawaii. It was basically move to Hawaii or go to some boring base in Florida.

You made the right call. That there Harwhya is a nice place.

I've spent quite a bit of time there on business. I decided a long time ago that the islands were 'too small' for me and I'd go bloody mad living there.

But I also decided if I did live there? I would try to touch every summit on every island...

I think the peak bagging ops there are quite unique...

The sport climbing? Same ole 100 routes year in, year out?

Blech!

But a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.

DMT


Gmburns2000


Dec 15, 2009, 10:31 AM
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Re: [dingus] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
USnavy wrote:
In the military one cannot say, I want to move to 36.349421,-115.169678. You submit four general requests and the Navy will try to match you up to something similar to one of them. For me I was given the choice to move to Hawaii. It was basically move to Hawaii or go to some boring base in Florida.

You made the right call. That there Harwhya is a nice place.

I've spent quite a bit of time there on business. I decided a long time ago that the islands were 'too small' for me and I'd go bloody mad living there.

But I also decided if I did live there? I would try to touch every summit on every island...

I think the peak bagging ops there are quite unique...

The sport climbing? Same ole 100 routes year in, year out?

Blech!

But a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.

DMT

Oh GOD! I lived in a crappy town called Eva Beach, right across the harbor from Pearl City. Boring as fuck. The most exciting thing to happen to me was when Mauna Loa blew up in '84, causing the sky to go black with ash for about a month. As a nine-year-old kid who wasn't allowed to even go outside, let alone go to school, during that period as a result of the ash, that was the most fun I ever had on that crummy, dry, boring-as-all-fuck island. Even Hurricane Eva (Iwa, Eva, same fucking thing) was boring.

It's a nice place to visit, but I wouldn't want to live there (again).

(actually, seeing the Magnum PI helicopter fly over on a regular basis was actaully pretty cool, and so was playing GI Joe using hollowed out tree routes, where scorpions tended to live. But smelling the burning sugar cane, having the beach closed in Eva Beach because sharks in Pearl Harbor got to a surfer (not that the surf there is good, just proximate), not being able to walk around barefoot because of the stupid prickly things, getting chased by wild mongoose, and getting chewed out by MPs for trying to hit landing planes with tennis balls (yes, when they flew directly over my house they were so close that we weren't allowed to fly kites, and yes, a friend of mine did, in fact, nail the bottom of a C-17 by hitting a tennis ball straight up into the air with a tennis racket) was not fun. Oh yeah, and for a kid used to throwing snowballs at the mailman at Christmas, Hawaii sucks donkey balls.)


dingus


Dec 15, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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Didn't mean to prick your last nerve there gymbo.

HAWAII!!!??? Sloooooly I turned....

STEP BY STEP!!!1111

I got to spend weeks of my work time in Hawaii, primarily Oahu and Big Island but also spent a tiny bit on Molekai and Maui.

I even did work at Malama Market in Haleiwa and took my burgers at Kua Aina, the BEST BURGERS in Hawaii, across the street. USNavy knows the spot.

I mean if you're going to do some work in a grocery store there are worse ones than the Malama Market that serves the North Shore and Sunset beach hehe.

And I say if you are going to LIVE in Hawaii, you would not want to do so in the hoods surrounding ANY military installation hehe.

Hawaii Kai. Maybe over by the Marine base on the other side. Or how about one of those little houses up on the bluff over Haleiwa?

But if I had to, and got to choose, it would have to be Big Island I reckon....

DMT


Gmburns2000


Dec 15, 2009, 11:08 AM
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Re: [dingus] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Didn't mean to prick your last nerve there gymbo.

HAWAII!!!??? Sloooooly I turned....

STEP BY STEP!!!1111

I got to spend weeks of my work time in Hawaii, primarily Oahu and Big Island but also spent a tiny bit on Molekai and Maui.

I even did work at Malama Market in Haleiwa and took my burgers at Kua Aina, the BEST BURGERS in Hawaii, across the street. USNavy knows the spot.

I mean if you're going to do some work in a grocery store there are worse ones than the Malama Market that serves the North Shore and Sunset beach hehe.

And I say if you are going to LIVE in Hawaii, you would not want to do so in the hoods surrounding ANY military installation hehe.

Hawaii Kai. Maybe over by the Marine base on the other side. Or how about one of those little houses up on the bluff over Haleiwa?

But if I had to, and got to choose, it would have to be Big Island I reckon....

DMT

heh - yeah, for a nine-year old kid from Maine, it was pretty boring. I imagine there's lots to do for people who like what activities are there. But I doubt I'll go back to Oahu, except to maybe head to Maui or Kuai (or Niihua, if I could ever get permission, which I doubt I could - did you know they almost put the UN there?).


surfer9joe


Dec 15, 2009, 7:18 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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Oahu's north shore is one of the best places in the world to live if you surf and climb, in my limited experience, i love it here. Last weekend i got to surf double overhead glass in the morning then climb in the afternoon.

I may be the guy shaking over the first bolt, well see:)


(This post was edited by surfer9joe on Dec 15, 2009, 10:50 PM)


dan2see


Dec 15, 2009, 7:40 PM
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Re: [USnavy] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
...In the military one cannot say, I want to move to 36.349421,-115.169678. You submit four general requests and the Navy will try to match you up to something similar to one of them. For me I was given the choice to move to Hawaii. It was basically move to Hawaii or go to some boring base in Florida.

Hey that's not fair! I was given the choice of staying in Cold Lake in northern Alberta, or a posting in Val d'Or in northern Quebec. "Forward Alert" was really boring (the Russians didn't come) but the town folk were a lot of fun.


Partner angry


Dec 15, 2009, 7:49 PM
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Re: [USnavy] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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So what you're saying is that there are more routes in Bermuda than in Hawaii.

Damn.


USnavy


Dec 16, 2009, 12:45 AM
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Re: [surfer9joe] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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surfer9joe wrote:
Oahu's north shore is one of the best places in the world to live if you surf and climb, in my limited experience, i love it here. Last weekend i got to surf double overhead glass in the morning then climb in the afternoon.

I may be the guy shaking over the first bolt, well see:)
You will be fine, I just showed Matt how to lead. I will go over lead belaying with him the next time I climb with him and then you should be able to lead with him. Pig Tree is a good option. Easy Rider is another option as its a bit easier but much more boring.


jcrew


Dec 18, 2009, 8:04 AM
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Re: [USnavy] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
I just showed Matt how to lead. I will go over lead belaying with him the next time

uhoh......


tradrenn


Jan 1, 2010, 3:20 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] The laws of climbing [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
USnavy wrote:
From a sport climbers perspective...



1. Climbing is done on lead.

- Last night you asked if I wanted to go CLIMBING tomorrow. Climbing is done on lead; top rope is for training and noobs. Today you were pissing your pants three feet above a bolt on a 5.8. Grow some balls and get some mileage on lead. I am tired of always belaying you on TR. STOP FOLLOWING, START LEADING. Its one thing to be scared 15 feet above the last bolt over 5.12 moves but to be top roping 5.11 and hanging 5.8 is pitiful. Next time get your shit together and get on lead. If you need more practice I will work with you but top roping is not going to do shit for you.

I don't understand why it is ok for you to be scared on a 5.12, but it is shameful for someone new to leading to be scared on a 5.8. Get over yourself.

Obviously Usnavy haven't done Modern Times yet.


brokesomeribs


Jan 4, 2010, 12:09 PM
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LOL, so true. Modern Times is scarier than most 10's at NRG. I seem to recall that the Williams book lists it as an 8+. Whatever the rating, I definitely hangdogged it. Also almost took a fat whipper mantling up at the top too.


kriso9tails


Jan 4, 2010, 2:37 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote:
Also almost took a fat whipper mantling up at the top too.

I finished that climb in the rain. Totally crushed that final ledge beached whale style.


brokesomeribs


Jan 4, 2010, 3:38 PM
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kriso9tails wrote:
brokesomeribs wrote:
Also almost took a fat whipper mantling up at the top too.

I finished that climb in the rain. Totally crushed that final ledge beached whale style.

You sir, are not alone. That climb has been the site of more beached whales than you can shake a japanese harpoon at.


tradrenn


Jan 4, 2010, 5:30 PM
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brokesomeribs wrote:
LOL, so true. Modern Times is scarier than most 10's at NRG. I seem to recall that the Williams book lists it as an 8+. Whatever the rating, I definitely hangdogged it. Also almost took a fat whipper mantling up at the top too.

It is an 8+, but that only means it is a bit harder than 5.8, but also easier than a 5.9

Unlike Kris's ascent (which I witnessed, Laugh) I managed to climbed it in good style after spending about 5 min. under the roof, you know, to get my shit together. One of the best and most memorable routes in USA.


avalon420


Jan 9, 2010, 12:57 PM
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camhead wrote:

It was always "shit, bad situation here!" "If this piece blows, the whole team is talus food!" "This climb is terrible!"

.
Talus food. Thats f/n great, I'll have to use that one on the wife.


napoleon_in_rags


Jan 15, 2010, 9:33 AM
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US Navy, I remind you that our standards are higher than that of civilians and still apply when our uniforms are off.

If you are a Chief, you need to remember that our job is to lead, teach and motivate. This can involve counselling, quiet explanation, a solid dressing down, or a well directed kick in the ass. It should be done in person and when the unacceptable behavior occurs. Typing up a list for an anonymous website is not leadership but the kind of bitching I would expect from a non-rate or an Ensign right out of OCS.

If you are not a Chief, go find a REAL Chief for advice on how to deal with your partners. He/she might not undestand climbing but he/she will understand people.

Either way, you need to be careful about misrepresenting the Navy, especially in a civilian forum with people who know nothing of the Navy other than what they have seen on JAG and NCIS.


-Pete
-A Chief Petty Officer


hafilax


Jan 15, 2010, 10:08 AM
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napoleon_in_rags wrote:
US Navy, I remind you that our standards are higher than that of civilians and still apply when our uniforms are off.

If you are a Chief, you need to remember that our job is to lead, teach and motivate. This can involve counselling, quiet explanation, a solid dressing down, or a well directed kick in the ass. It should be done in person and when the unacceptable behavior occurs.Typing up a list for an anonymous website is not leadership but the kind of bitching I would expect from a non-rate or an Ensign right out of OCS.

If you are not a Chief, go find a REAL Chief for advice on how to deal with your partners. He/she might not undestand climbing but he/she will understand people.

Either way, you need to be careful about misrepresenting the Navy, especially in a civilian forum with people who know nothing of the Navy other than what they have seen on JAG and NCIS.


-Pete
-A Chief Petty Officer
ORLY Crazy


Kevthecoffeeguy


Jan 17, 2010, 7:33 AM
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I now remember THE OTHER reason i stopped climbing so much. When the "cool" people started showing up. I have more respect for a gumbie flaying away at a 5-10 than an arrogant "cool" guy that belittles those that still climb what he/she used to struggle on
although the safety aspects you bring up are a different thing entirely
I have not forgotten what it was like 18 years ago to have someone you that know leads 12s and 13s stop for a moment watching you finally succeed at a move after the 10th try on a 10. and Say "NICE MOVE Way to go!.
maybe just maybe the dog figured you deserved to have your rope pissed on


jt512


Jan 18, 2010, 8:42 PM
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napoleon_in_rags wrote:
US Navy, I remind you that our standards are higher than that of civilians and still apply when our uniforms are off.

If you are a Chief, you need to remember that our job is to lead, teach and motivate. This can involve counselling, quiet explanation, a solid dressing down, or a well directed kick in the ass. It should be done in person and when the unacceptable behavior occurs. Typing up a list for an anonymous website is not leadership but the kind of bitching I would expect from a non-rate or an Ensign right out of OCS.

If you are not a Chief, go find a REAL Chief for advice on how to deal with your partners. He/she might not undestand climbing but he/she will understand people.

Either way, you need to be careful about misrepresenting the Navy, especially in a civilian forum with people who know nothing of the Navy other than what they have seen on JAG and NCIS.


-Pete
-A Chief Petty Officer

Worth 5 stars for entertainment value.

Plus 1 star for the hypocrisy of "dressing down" on a "civilian forum" six weeks after the fact.

Jay


(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 18, 2010, 8:47 PM)


napoleon_in_rags


Jan 19, 2010, 5:17 AM
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jt512 wrote:

Worth 5 stars for entertainment value.

Plus 1 star for the hypocrisy of "dressing down" on a "civilian forum" six weeks after the fact.

Jay

LOL

Well, I only come to RC.com for gear and partner questions now; I try to avoid the internet debate. I had a crampon question when "US Navy" caught my eye, especially on a website that recieves advertising money from the Navy. Maybe I should have just sent him a message instead.

-Pete

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