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the_climber
Dec 7, 2009, 7:48 PM
Post #1876 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Ya, I was basically sick all weekend, too sick to work today... in fact I certifiably feel like death.
I will hopefully be up for some kick ass ice on Sunday.
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the_climber
Dec 7, 2009, 7:58 PM
Post #1877 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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On another note:
I am trying to nail down a date for the 2010 BVX Winter Beer Review in the Ghost.
So far it seems the weekend of Jan 15-17 works the best for most. Unfortunately there will always be people who can't make whatever dates we decide on, but this seems to be the weekend most can make it.
This year will feature a Yurt and a Wall tent to warm up/dry out gear, the Traditional Keg (bigrock), the typical level of bullshit and bragging, excessive amounts of party and ice climbing (well durrrr).... and if Richard pulls through possibly a hot tub. We'll discuss the camp fees to cover everyone's out of pocket costs at pub night this week.
As always, all we aim to do is break even and have one hell of a time.
I am working on more swag and draw prizes for this year too BTW.
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skinner
Dec 8, 2009, 2:40 PM
Post #1878 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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I don't think I can kick yet with my faucked up toe.. either that or it's too cold out.. or maybe both 
Do you know if anyone's been into the ghost ? I imagine there's some big-assed drifts in there.
PS: Thanks for the discs Dave, I've *almost* got the Braggin-Bullshit video finished.
(This post was edited by skinner on Dec 8, 2009, 2:44 PM)
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the_climber
Dec 8, 2009, 9:07 PM
Post #1880 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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New North American Distributor for Grivel.
Stumbled upon this today:
Liberty Mountain - Grivel
Liberty Mountain and Grivel Form US Partnership.
For Immediate Release
Nathan Smith,
Liberty Mountain
4375W. 1980 S. Suite 100
Salt Lake City, UT. 84104
800-366-2666 ext. 222
nathans@libertymountain.com
http://www.libertymountain.com/
December 1, 2009 — Liberty Mountain, one of the largest distributors of technical outdoor products in the U.S., has arranged an agreement regarding the distribution of Grivel Mont Blanc products throughout the United States.
Starting in 2010, Liberty Mountain will offer Grivel’s legendary line of crampons, ice axes and other climbing and mountaineering equipment. Grivel Mont Blanc started making ice axes in 1818 and has led the way with innovative products ever since. It is the oldest mountain equipment company in the world.
“We are happy to have a new reliable partner to work with in the USA. We are strongly committed to this market and we believe Liberty Mountain is the best choice to spread our message, starting from our core business and moving into the new categories we have already introduced in Europe (e.g. poles, rock climbing range, …) and then on the new developments we are working on for the future. Innovation and reliability of the deliveries are in our opinion the keys for a great future.” Gioachino Gobbi, President of Grivel.
Gary Heward, Liberty Mountain’s President is excited with this new partnership. “Grivel is one of the world’s great mountaineering companies with a wonderful tradition that started in the Alps and spread around the globe over the last two centuries. Their products are widely known and respected for their performance, style and reliability. They are an excellent fit with the other climbing and mountaineering lines Liberty Mountain offers. We are honored and thrilled with the opportunity to share these great products with US outdoor enthusiasts.“
Liberty Mountain will show the Grivel line at the 2010 Winter Outdoor Retailer show and will have limited product available for distribution as soon as December of 2009. Please contact your customer service representative for more details or sales@libertymountain.com to set up an account.
Since 1998 Liberty Mountain has consistently exceeded its sales goals and quality representation of exclusive brands by focusing on ASAP distribution. Excellent customer service, same day shipping and high in-stock rates are the hallmark of the company.
Liberty Mountain also exclusively distributes Edelweiss Ropes, Vaude, Singing Rock, CaVa, Pieps, Outdoor Designs, and many other technical outdoor sport brands throughout the U.S.
To contact Liberty Mountain:
Nathan Smith,
Liberty Mountain
4375 W. 1980 S. Suite 100
Salt Lake City, UT. 84104
800-366-2666 ext. 222
nathans@libertymountain.com
http://www.libertymountain.com/
To contact Grivel:
Alexis Vallet
11013 Courmayeur Mont Blanc (Aosta) Italy
Phone: +39.0165.84.37.14
alexis@grivel.com
http://www.grivel.com/
For the record: Wicked Gravity uses Liberty as one of it's suppliers. No need to rely on MEC for your Grivel anymore. WHHHOOOOOO!
(This post was edited by the_climber on Dec 8, 2009, 9:09 PM)
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skinner
Dec 9, 2009, 5:07 AM
Post #1881 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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Ditto on the "WHHHOOOOOO!"
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dowww
Dec 9, 2009, 3:42 PM
Post #1882 of 2012
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Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 90
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skinner wrote: dowww wrote: Dude!, world citizen first and foremost, who lives where ever the climbing takes me...at the moment, short sleeves, box of tape and snorting 5.10-11 crack on sun exposed Zion walls until I am blue in the face....the Mounties kick me out every once in awhile....some stupid "no felon policy" ...I never killed anyone who didn't deserve it man. What better place for a hardened criminal to hide out then Zion. Have you run into Ron Olevsky down there?
Old cell buddies.
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skinner
Dec 10, 2009, 7:17 PM
Post #1883 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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Ah, just like the Wild West with all the outlaws hiding out in those deep desert canyons, and god help any lawman that dare step foot into one !
I should come down there and defrost my gear on some of those classic lines I've always wanted to do. Other then *cold*, hows the river crossing these days? (and you should really post up a photo or two!)
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dowww
Dec 10, 2009, 8:12 PM
Post #1884 of 2012
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Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 90
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skinner wrote: Ah, just like the Wild West with all the outlaws hiding out in those deep desert canyons, and god help any lawman that dare step foot into one ! I should come down there and defrost my gear on some of those classic lines I've always wanted to do. Other then *cold*, hows the river crossing these days? (and you should really post up a photo or two!)
Ron O has more guns than any law man I know, for sure. I only have a few, but they get the job done. Here is 6000 of them dude! Actually I just sold this one today to some tourist who it really has no meaning for....took with a cheap ass camera, but from a fantastic 5.11 route called Chasity Crack. The boys are developing new lines to the left and right of it this winter...brrrr.
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lovesclimbing
Dec 11, 2009, 12:28 AM
Post #1885 of 2012
(10650 views)
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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A sad day today, such a nice man and great passion in life
http://www.montananewsreports.com/RECENT-HEADLINES/World-class-ice-climber-Guy-Lacelle-dies-in-avalanche-at-Grotto-Falls-870316
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the_climber
Dec 11, 2009, 2:17 AM
Post #1886 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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Fuck I just heard from Canmore about this. Fuck. My glass is raised tonight in salute to Guy. Will climb some ice for him tomorrow. 
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skinner
Dec 18, 2009, 9:29 AM
Post #1887 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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dowww wrote: Ron O has more guns than any law man I know, for sure. I only have a few, but they get the job done. Here is 6000 of them dude! Actually I just sold this one today to some tourist who it really has no meaning for....took with a cheap ass camera, but from a fantastic 5.11 route called Chasity Crack.
That Chaisty is on frikken nice looking crack! Although I'd probably be busting out the aiders somewhere on the 3rd pitch
dowww wrote: The boys are developing new lines to the left and right of it this winter...brrrr.
brrr..?? LoL, they should have been here for the last couple weeks, we could have showed them what "brrr" is all about!
lovesclimbing wrote: A sad day today, such a nice man and great passion in life http://www.montananewsreports.com/RECENT-HEADLINES/World-class-ice-climber-Guy-Lacelle-dies-in-avalanche-at-Grotto-Falls-870316
Really, really sucks about Guy, soloing has been an especially unforgiving pursuit this year
Fvck Brenden, You're on the front page again ya poser!
And.. fiinally, one for Paul.. http://boingboing.net/2009/10/13/snow-kite-boarder-ge.html
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the_climber
Dec 18, 2009, 3:07 PM
Post #1888 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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skinner wrote: Fvck Brenden, You're on the front page again ya poser!
That's been on the front page for months.
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skinner
Dec 18, 2009, 5:36 PM
Post #1889 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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I was looking through Dow's Huge list of climbs there, and noticed: "Joy 5.5 10 pitches"
"We soloed the first pitch and the remaining pitches did not vary much from one another. There was at least one bolt and two pitons. Otherwise smaller to medium cams, nuts and tri-cams did the trick. We did use larger cams on occasion. The smaller tri-cams worked well in several shallow cracks"
Just so you know, Brenden and I have spent a lot of time on Indefatigable in the light, dark, sun, wind, rain, snow, and all of the above-all at once. And I don't remember seeing any bolts on there anywhere. There was a mal-placed wired nut and a cam that became permanently fixed (until they got hacked out, the wire is now on my fireplace). But i was curious about the "5.5" rating, if that's what you gave it? Because the original grade on the route is 5.4. It's no big deal, I was just curious, because it seemed to me if you followed the corner all the way, it was probably 5.5, but I think the original route wanders out on the slab where the crack gets so small (and usually wet) that is disappears. If you follow the easiest path going out on the slab in a few spots, then it's defiantly 5.4.
Oh ya.. and ditto on the tri-cams!
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dowww
Dec 18, 2009, 6:22 PM
Post #1890 of 2012
(10557 views)
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Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 90
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Dude, that would be so long ago that I have no idea.....I don't typically imagine bolts out of thin air though....I probably have climbed over 1000 routes since, seriously. I did return one time to solo the route but would not have paid any attention to any fixed gear obviously....kind of got into trying to tick off all the local 5.7 (and below) alpine routes sans rope....one of many bizarre ideas I have had for exercise and endurance. Since I no longer compete in races, I have learned to refocus and just climb at a relaxed pace and smell the flowers sort of speak. I do get a kick out of how some of you guys will analyze a "5.4" route to death. I swear I can't tell the difference between 5.0 and 5.6 anymore. It is all just 5th class to 5.7 really. I would not get to excited about anyones misinterpreted beta at that level. Cheers. (of course Bramble would be hang dogging the route screaming for some more tape!)
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skinner
Dec 19, 2009, 8:27 PM
Post #1891 of 2012
(10524 views)
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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dowww wrote: Dude, that would be so long ago that I have no idea.....I don't typically imagine bolts out of thin air though....I probably have climbed over 1000 routes since, seriously. I didn't figure that you imagined the bolt, it was more of.. wtf would anyone put a bolt on a route that just sucks up as much gear as you can throw at it, don't get me wrong, I've placed my share of bolts.. but only on my own routes, or replacing an exiting 1/4" that was broken, rusted through, etc. I was glad *not* to see any bolts.
dowww wrote: I did return one time to solo the route but would not have paid any attention to any fixed gear obviously....kind of got into trying to tick off all the local 5.7 (and below) alpine routes sans rope....one of many bizarre ideas I have had for exercise and endurance. Since I no longer compete in races, I have learned to refocus and just climb at a relaxed pace and smell the flowers sort of speak. I do get a kick out of how some of you guys will analyze a "5.4" route to death. I swear I can't tell the difference between 5.0 and 5.6 anymore. It is all just 5th class to 5.7 really. I would not get to excited about anyone's misinterpreted beta at that level. Cheers. (of course Bramble would be hang dogging the route screaming for some more tape!)
Hey, you got me pegged totally wrong, everyone knows that I am that last one to give a shit about grades or splitting hairs over them. I was only curious, because every time I see this route listed, it's a different grade, and was only wondering if the grade you have listed, was based on your experience after climbing it or not.
Peace, and glad you're smelling the roses!
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lovesclimbing
Dec 20, 2009, 4:05 AM
Post #1892 of 2012
(10511 views)
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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Dow, I thought that the crying and yelling for tape and the pissing of pants we were going to keep that under raps
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dowww
Dec 20, 2009, 4:04 PM
Post #1893 of 2012
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Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 90
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dude! I thought you told me that was a leaky water bottle? I bought you a box of tape for Christmas, but the border guard thought it was dried cocaine....next time you hit the border in Montana, I bet those boys have their hands taped....
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lovesclimbing
Dec 20, 2009, 4:24 PM
Post #1894 of 2012
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Registered: Jun 29, 2003
Posts: 551
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Ya I'm missing the tape up here however it isn't working all that well on the hard stuff like grotto and cascade and THOS
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jetdoctr
Dec 23, 2009, 2:42 PM
Post #1895 of 2012
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Registered: Mar 17, 2008
Posts: 168
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dont forget the gift thingy tonight at pub night... 5$ max and be creatiave
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the_climber
Dec 23, 2009, 3:16 PM
Post #1896 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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Professor Falls is in great conditions right now if anyone is wondering. A steal for the grade.
Climbed it with Dr.Chris yesterday. Trail is still good to ride most of it with a bike. You will still end up walking some of the hills (unless you have studded tires), but it is WAY better than hoofing it the whole way in there.
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the_climber
Dec 23, 2009, 9:58 PM
Post #1897 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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I should also mention the final pitch on Professor's is FFFFAAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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binrat
Dec 24, 2009, 1:50 PM
Post #1898 of 2012
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Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
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Merry Christmas to all of you out there. I wish I could arrange a road trip within the next month.
binrat
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the_climber
Dec 24, 2009, 6:33 PM
Post #1899 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Merry X-mas to you too man. Too bad about not being able to go on a roady for January.
Hopefully you'll be able to get out before the ice season is over. Free tour offer still stands.
(This post was edited by the_climber on Dec 24, 2009, 6:33 PM)
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geekerella
Dec 27, 2009, 11:29 PM
Post #1900 of 2012
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Registered: Jan 9, 2005
Posts: 32
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Happy Holidays From Kansas!
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