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funking heads
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frodolf


Feb 7, 2010, 7:27 AM
Post #26 of 31 (1696 views)
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Re: [Lazlo] funking heads [In reply to]
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I often funk test heads and other pro (nuts, pitons, the occasional shallow cam placement). I think it is an important skill to have as an aid climber. After a while you learn how hard to funk and what forces are accumulated. I can determine, pretty accurately I think, how hard I should hit to test a piece for body weight, and then for a little bit more than body weight. It can be really good to have this skill when on a traverse or on wildly overhanging stuff where it can be hard to bounce test safely/easily.

I don't use a wire. I use a nylon sling as a funkness device, with tied loops for biners at each end. Works great, is cheaper, and ads just a little bit of stretch, which is good. Me thinks.

One should be careful with the smallest heads, though. They break easily. Don't funk them if it can be avoided! The middle siezes to bigger you can funk pretty darn hard. But don't give them more than, say, 4-5 hits tops as the wire have a tendency for creeping at every stroke. The same rule applies for bounce testing heads, BTW. What will break first, if you've done a decent job placing it, is the wire, leaving a dead head. And eeeverybody hates them so take it easy!

M


USnavy


Feb 8, 2010, 12:31 AM
Post #27 of 31 (1666 views)
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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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Re: [adatesman] funking heads [In reply to]
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adatesman wrote:
Ok, let's toss my results because I don't think they're correct. I was able to snap two different 3mm cord (400# rating) samples, and in both cases the strain gage only read ~150lb-force. Clearly there's something not right, and my guess is that asking the device to read accurately at 4% of its load rating is the problem. Blush
My 10k lbs. load cell is accurate at those lower levels. I hung from mine and it registered my correct weight within 2 lbs.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 8, 2010, 12:33 AM)


rightarmbad


Feb 8, 2010, 2:50 AM
Post #28 of 31 (1655 views)
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Re: [USnavy] funking heads [In reply to]
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Yes, but there may be too much mass in the device to catch a peak at low levels correctly


skinner


Feb 10, 2010, 9:14 AM
Post #29 of 31 (1568 views)
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Registered: Oct 31, 2004
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Re: [quiteatingmysteak] funking heads [In reply to]
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quiteatingmysteak wrote:
Funkness devices have broken biners, you should try to avoid testing fixed heads with them, and I've pulled the wire out on at least one occasion. You can get big forces.

I agree that funking is not a good alternative to bounce testing, but I assumed this was just about testing the holding strength of heads, more for curiosity sake.
Even if that is the case, I can't imagine how accurate this is with so many variables in each placement, not to mention variables in the heads themselves.

The only time I do anything funk-like to a head, is when removing them, and then it's an outward funk anyway.

All that said.. I'm always amazed what heads *will*(thankfully) hold!


Lazlo


Feb 10, 2010, 5:38 PM
Post #30 of 31 (1535 views)
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Re: [skinner] funking heads [In reply to]
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skinner wrote:
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
Funkness devices have broken biners, you should try to avoid testing fixed heads with them, and I've pulled the wire out on at least one occasion. You can get big forces.

I agree that funking is not a good alternative to bounce testing, but I assumed this was just about testing the holding strength of heads, more for curiosity sake.
Even if that is the case, I can't imagine how accurate this is with so many variables in each placement, not to mention variables in the heads themselves.

The only time I do anything funk-like to a head, is when removing them, and then it's an outward funk anyway.

All that said.. I'm always amazed what heads *will*(thankfully) hold!

Correct. I made my own heads and just wanted to see what kind of abuse they could take.


Lazlo


Feb 10, 2010, 5:40 PM
Post #31 of 31 (1533 views)
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Re: [Lazlo] funking heads [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:
skinner wrote:
quiteatingmysteak wrote:
Funkness devices have broken biners, you should try to avoid testing fixed heads with them, and I've pulled the wire out on at least one occasion. You can get big forces.

I agree that funking is not a good alternative to bounce testing, but I assumed this was just about testing the holding strength of heads, more for curiosity sake.
Even if that is the case, I can't imagine how accurate this is with so many variables in each placement, not to mention variables in the heads themselves.

The only time I do anything funk-like to a head, is when removing them, and then it's an outward funk anyway.

All that said.. I'm always amazed what heads *will*(thankfully) hold!

Correct. I made my own heads and just wanted to see what kind of abuse they could take.

I haven't had one break yet either. I've been quite amazed.

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