Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Competition Climbing:
training for speed climbing competitions?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Competition Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


PlasticHead


Jan 28, 2010, 4:21 AM
Post #1 of 38 (9270 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

training for speed climbing competitions?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?


I_do


Jan 28, 2010, 6:19 AM
Post #2 of 38 (9260 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

PlasticHead wrote:
today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?

Well if you need speed, use speed! Available at your friendly neigbourhood drug dealer. It'll make you climb very fast. Coke is good to.


scottek67


Jan 28, 2010, 6:28 AM
Post #3 of 38 (9257 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 6, 2008
Posts: 515

Re: [I_do] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I_do wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?

Well if you need speed, use speed! Available at your friendly neigbourhood drug dealer. It'll make you climb very fast. Coke is good to.
that is good advice but don't forget a big breakfast with lots of twinkies and redbull. see ya at the E.R.Wink


I_do


Jan 28, 2010, 6:52 AM
Post #4 of 38 (9249 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232

Re: [scottek67] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

scottek67 wrote:
I_do wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
today is january 28th and I think SCS regionals are in a few months. Part of the regional competition is speed climbing.

I've always been pretty fast. But i recently took a long break and now i'm as slow as a turtle!

What can I do to build back my speed before this upcoming comp?

Well if you need speed, use speed! Available at your friendly neigbourhood drug dealer. It'll make you climb very fast. Coke is good to.
that is good advice but don't forget a big breakfast with lots of twinkies and redbull. see ya at the E.R.Wink

Also you could go for speed downclimbing, otherwise known as decking, it's the SHiZ yo rage


johnwesely


Jan 28, 2010, 7:28 AM
Post #5 of 38 (9241 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

Practice?


PlasticHead


Jan 28, 2010, 11:12 AM
Post #6 of 38 (9219 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [johnwesely] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?


johnwesely


Jan 28, 2010, 11:14 AM
Post #7 of 38 (9216 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.


PlasticHead


Jan 28, 2010, 11:19 AM
Post #8 of 38 (9215 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [johnwesely] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johnwesely wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.

wdf 500 a day? Looks like somebody just wants to get rid of the competition...


johnwesely


Jan 28, 2010, 11:27 AM
Post #9 of 38 (9212 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.

wdf 500 a day? Looks like somebody just wants to get rid of the competition...

No really. Your legs will be so powerful that you will literally shoot up the walls.


I_do


Jan 29, 2010, 3:40 AM
Post #10 of 38 (9169 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 2, 2008
Posts: 1232

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
PlasticHead wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Practice?

yes john, I have been practicing for several weeks now. But what kind of training should i do becides practice. ex: squats?

Yeah. I would definitely do lots and lots of squats. Maybe around 500 a day. That would make you climb really fast.

wdf 500 a day? Looks like somebody just wants to get rid of the competition...

Don't you already have a collection of injuries? Take it easy get competent and enjoy climbing for the next 40 years instead of quitting frustrated in a few.

Cheers


airscape


Feb 1, 2010, 4:59 AM
Post #11 of 38 (9118 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2001
Posts: 4240

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
Roids will make you the Marion Jones of speed climbing.

I hope they don't test your piss...


Jo_Rock


Feb 3, 2010, 12:00 PM
Post #12 of 38 (9072 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 3, 2010
Posts: 41

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I apologize in advance for not having any witty but useless advice (trust me, there will be times when I will be useless in the future, and maybe even witty).

Hans Florine in Speed Climbing (p90) says "...when you train for particular motions...you should exaggerate the speed of the motion to recruit fast twitch muscle fibers." He also suggests a VersaClimber if you have access to one and skate skiing using longer than normal poles.

Mark Twight recommends small sets where you focus everything you have on pulling (or pushing) as fast as you can (lower slowly to avoid injury) and resting 2 to 3 minutes between sets. (Extreme Alpinism p47) This book has what seems like a lot of really good training info, but I have not taken enough time out of my busy drinking schedule to implement enough of this to give my personal recommendation, but Twight's resume makes it pretty likely that this is not just esoteric hypothesizing.

J


Jo_Rock


Feb 3, 2010, 12:19 PM
Post #13 of 38 (9065 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 3, 2010
Posts: 41

Re: [Jo_Rock] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Didn't notice you were in Florida....the skate skiing suggestion is probably not that helpful, even if it has been a little colder than normal.

J


johngalt


Feb 3, 2010, 9:08 PM
Post #14 of 38 (9028 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 17, 2004
Posts: 15

Re: [Jo_Rock] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Thanks for the tip Jo.

I've adopted a "theme/motto" over the last few years. it is: "don't get injured during the training." Better to go off the couch and get injured in the performance than injured in the training and not get to do the performance. You may replace the word "performance" with "adventure" or "climbing trip," etc...

That said. YES- if you want to improve your speed climbing do an action with less weight and make the movement faster than you normally would.

cheers,

Hans

ps. I'm giving a clinic at Rockn & Jamn in Denver on Feb 19th. - but it's more about NIAD skills not comp speed climbing.


PlasticHead


Feb 6, 2010, 5:36 PM
Post #15 of 38 (8942 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [Jo_Rock] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thanks Jo. I appreciate you trying to help. Too bad I can't ski in florida!


acorneau


Feb 11, 2010, 5:35 PM
Post #16 of 38 (8845 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

PlasticHead wrote:
thanks Jo. I appreciate you trying to help. Too bad I can't ski in florida!

Sure you can... water skiing, that is!
Angelic


PlasticHead


Mar 3, 2010, 7:58 AM
Post #17 of 38 (8645 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [Jo_Rock] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Jo_Rock wrote:
I apologize in advance for not having any witty but useless advice (trust me, there will be times when I will be useless in the future, and maybe even witty).

Hans Florine in Speed Climbing (p90) says "...when you train for particular motions...you should exaggerate the speed of the motion to recruit fast twitch muscle fibers." He also suggests a VersaClimber if you have access to one and skate skiing using longer than normal poles.

Mark Twight recommends small sets where you focus everything you have on pulling (or pushing) as fast as you can (lower slowly to avoid injury) and resting 2 to 3 minutes between sets. (Extreme Alpinism p47) This book has what seems like a lot of really good training info, but I have not taken enough time out of my busy drinking schedule to implement enough of this to give my personal recommendation, but Twight's resume makes it pretty likely that this is not just esoteric hypothesizing.

J

How about Burpee pullups? I heard those work burst power but I'm sure how that could help with speed climbing.

All you need is a timer, and a pullup bar or something similiar that requires one to jump up and grab in order to do the pullup.

The goal is to do them as quickly as possible. Start off with 20 for example, and record how long it takes to do them.

Start by jumping up and grabbing the bar, do a pullup, drop down, do a pushup, spring back up on your feet and jump up to the bar.
Thats 1 burpee pullup.


shockabuku


Mar 3, 2010, 9:07 AM
Post #18 of 38 (8630 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4849

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Have you competed in this type of speed climbing comp before?

It appears to me that the most critical pieces of it are hand/foot eye coordination/being able to know where the big footholds are when you don't have time to look down at them and route reading and being able to execute that read at (relatively) high speed.

The routes are generally easy and fairly straightforward but as with any timed sport, even minor mistakes make the difference between finishing places.


PlasticHead


Mar 5, 2010, 9:38 AM
Post #19 of 38 (8576 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [shockabuku] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:
Have you competed in this type of speed climbing comp before?

It appears to me that the most critical pieces of it are hand/foot eye coordination/being able to know where the big footholds are when you don't have time to look down at them and route reading and being able to execute that read at (relatively) high speed.

Like I said before, I want to be prepared and train hard for the comps, that way I can do the best I can.
Thanks for the advice btw.
The routes are generally easy and fairly straightforward but as with any timed sport, even minor mistakes make the difference between finishing places.


i_h8_choss


Mar 5, 2010, 12:22 PM
Post #20 of 38 (8550 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

well Im no comp climber, shit I just started in a gym. hehe. but.... some of the 5.9-5.10+ routes at my gym have a big pad under them so I solo up the first 30-40 feet up then down/up/down/up etc. until I cant feel anything. break. repeat.

my partner and I also let each other do laps of 5 - 10 on some routes sometimes.
good luck in the comp. I hope you win a pair of mad rocks or a sick beanie and chalk bag.


davidnn5


Mar 6, 2010, 9:41 PM
Post #21 of 38 (8504 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 7, 2009
Posts: 348

Re: [i_h8_choss] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i_h8_choss wrote:
well Im no comp climber, shit I just started in a gym. hehe. but.... some of the 5.9-5.10+ routes at my gym have a big pad under them so I solo up the first 30-40 feet up then down/up/down/up etc. until I cant feel anything. break. repeat.

my partner and I also let each other do laps of 5 - 10 on some routes sometimes.
good luck in the comp. I hope you win a pair of mad rocks or a sick beanie and chalk bag.

Amazed your gym lets you solo that far - how big a pad are we talking here?! Or is it a rope solo...


i_h8_choss


Mar 7, 2010, 1:54 AM
Post #22 of 38 (8478 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 2, 2007
Posts: 694

Re: [davidnn5] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

davidnn5 wrote:
i_h8_choss wrote:
well Im no comp climber, shit I just started in a gym. hehe. but.... some of the 5.9-5.10+ routes at my gym have a big pad under them so I solo up the first 30-40 feet up then down/up/down/up etc. until I cant feel anything. break. repeat.

my partner and I also let each other do laps of 5 - 10 on some routes sometimes.
good luck in the comp. I hope you win a pair of mad rocks or a sick beanie and chalk bag.

Amazed your gym lets you solo that far - how big a pad are we talking here?! Or is it a rope solo...


it's a solo. the pad is about 1/2 meter thick. they have a liine about half way up the route yer not supposed to cross, but nobody cares. it's a pretty small gym. in the afternoon. not many people around.


deltav


Mar 16, 2010, 8:08 PM
Post #23 of 38 (8315 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 597

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There are 2 main styles of speed climbing: the paddle and the frog (think free style and butterfly in swimming). Most Americans use the frog style.

To train for this, you need to work not only on speed, but power, specifically explosive power. Here are a few suggestions for training.

Squats
Swim the breast stroke
Jump rope
Sprints (working on that explosive power)
Run stairs
Climb a jug haul while smearing
Sit -Ups
Push -ups
Closed leg knee tucks
Open leg knee tucks
Up-downs
Jumping Jacks
Any sort of polymetrics
Practice deadpoints
Practice dynos

Hope this helps!

Make sure you are registered for USAC and competing at locals if you want to make it to regionals.


PlasticHead


Mar 17, 2010, 7:45 AM
Post #24 of 38 (8282 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [deltav] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

deltav wrote:
There are 2 main styles of speed climbing: the paddle and the frog (think free style and butterfly in swimming). Most Americans use the frog style.

To train for this, you need to work not only on speed, but power, specifically explosive power. Here are a few suggestions for training.

Squats
Swim the breast stroke
Jump rope
Sprints (working on that explosive power)
Run stairs
Climb a jug haul while smearing
Sit -Ups
Push -ups
Closed leg knee tucks
Open leg knee tucks
Up-downs
Jumping Jacks
Any sort of polymetrics
Practice deadpoints
Practice dynos

Hope this helps!

Make sure you are registered for USAC and competing at locals if you want to make it to regionals.

hey thanks! these are all great ideas to help me improve! I'm going to regionals in a few months, so I'll practice up until then. Cool


deltav


Mar 17, 2010, 5:20 PM
Post #25 of 38 (8239 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 597

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I hope they help. Don't forget, you have to compete in 3 locals in order to qualify for regionals.


PlasticHead


Mar 19, 2010, 9:53 AM
Post #26 of 38 (4438 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2010
Posts: 101

Re: [deltav] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

deltav wrote:
I hope they help. Don't forget, you have to compete in 3 locals in order to qualify for regionals.

yeah, I'm a member of USA climbing and I've already competed in one comp. Theres 3 more before regionals and I will be going to all of them.


younggun


Mar 24, 2010, 12:34 PM
Post #27 of 38 (4404 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 8, 2005
Posts: 31

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

The best practice for speed climbing is to practice speed climbing. When practicing, you need to be able to peddle hand then foot type climbing and you also need to be able to dyno 2 handed from move to move. Depending on how the route is set, one way might be faster than the other. At high level competitions, they usually change the sequence so that peddling is faster, then, dyno to dyno to dyno, then back to peddling. The trick is to recognize the sequence so you can execute either technique and change it mid-route as needed. Most important is a fast start, so make sure the first 3 moves are wired to get ahead and rattle your opponent.


usacpnw


May 4, 2010, 4:23 PM
Post #28 of 38 (4172 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 1, 2006
Posts: 66

Re: [younggun] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just an FYI - They will be using the IFSC Official Speed Holds at SCS Nationals.


keinangst


Aug 11, 2010, 1:19 PM
Post #29 of 38 (3973 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 31, 2003
Posts: 1408

Re: [usacpnw] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

This sounds like an anaerobic sprint, so don't both with Versaclimbers, burpees, etc (IMHO).

I assume it's going to be vertical or slightly slabby to focus more on max speed. Either way, your legs are going to do virtually all of the driving, so I'd work plyometric box jumps, tuck jumps (or double-unders with a jumprope), and maybe barbell thrusters (front squat, up to shoulder press in one movement).

And, of course, stairs in a stadium. 2-3 steps at a time, FAST.

Another explosive, anaerobic leg exercise I like is jumping lunges (or scissor lunges). Standing in place, jump from one lunge to the next without taking an interim stance. These should devastate your glutes and train fast-twitch fibers without adding mass.


clim.br


Mar 18, 2011, 11:30 AM
Post #30 of 38 (3612 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 29, 2011
Posts: 20

Re: [PlasticHead] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

[quote "PlasticHead"

How about Burpee pullups? I heard those work burst power but I'm sure how that could help with speed climbing.

All you need is a timer, and a pullup bar or something similiar that requires one to jump up and grab in order to do the pullup.

The goal is to do them as quickly as possible. Start off with 20 for example, and record how long it takes to do them.

Start by jumping up and grabbing the bar, do a pullup, drop down, do a pushup, spring back up on your feet and jump up to the bar.
Thats 1 burpee pullup.
20 of them sounds pretty brutal (to me at least).

Just to add, you really need to work on your Type II muscle group, and one way of doing it, is doing reps as fast as you can.


shockabuku


Mar 18, 2011, 12:34 PM
Post #31 of 38 (3604 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4849

Re: [clim.br] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The national finalists in speed climbing for youth B and above are almost guaranteed to be those who spend time training on the standard speed route. It uses unique holds



in a (semi-) standard arrangement at a fixed angle - getting the route dialed is the key to success at that level. It's unfortunate that only a few gyms in the country have it available.

http://www.top30climbingwalls.com/...e=313&idage=4096


billcoe_


Apr 12, 2011, 9:18 AM
Post #32 of 38 (3375 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4658

Re: [johngalt] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

johngalt wrote:
Thanks for the tip Jo.

I've adopted a "theme/motto" over the last few years. it is: "don't get injured during the training." Better to go off the couch and get injured in the performance than injured in the training and not get to do the performance. You may replace the word "performance" with "adventure" or "climbing trip," etc...

That said. YES- if you want to improve your speed climbing do an action with less weight and make the movement faster than you normally would.

cheers,

Hans

ps. I'm giving a clinic at Rockn & Jamn in Denver on Feb 19th. - but it's more about NIAD skills not comp speed climbing.

It's interesting to me that one of the most noted speed climbers in the country checked in on this subject and gets ignored.


JasonsDrivingForce


Apr 29, 2011, 1:28 PM
Post #33 of 38 (3238 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 687

Re: [billcoe_] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was at Stone Summit(SCS nationals gym for this year). They had the standard 30 foot speed route setup so I decided to try. It is a lot harder than it looks. I probably took 30 seconds or more to get up the 30 foot route.

The Team Texas youth team came over a few minutes later and one kid blasted off a 5.9 second sprint(literally he sprinted up the wall).

There is no replacement for simply practicing the standard route. The kids who do that a lot always have an advantage over the kids that don't.


(This post was edited by JasonsDrivingForce on May 3, 2011, 7:06 AM)


shockabuku


May 3, 2011, 5:52 AM
Post #34 of 38 (3203 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4849

Re: [JasonsDrivingForce] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
I was at Stone Summit(SCS nationals gym for this year). They had the standard 30 meter speed route setup so I decided to try. It is a lot harder than it looks. I probably took 30 seconds or more to get up the 30 meter route.

The Team Texas youth team came over a few minutes later and one kid blasted off a 5.9 second sprint(literally he sprinted up the wall).

There is no replacement for simply practicing the standard route. The kids who do that a lot always have an advantage over the kids that don't.

The route that Stone Summit has up is not the full length route used in international speed comps.


olderic


May 3, 2011, 7:04 AM
Post #35 of 38 (3193 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1532

Re: [JasonsDrivingForce] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Not 30 m - either 10 or 15 is the standard:

http://www.epusa.com/..._Wall_Tech_Pages.pdf


JasonsDrivingForce


May 3, 2011, 7:05 AM
Post #36 of 38 (3193 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 687

Re: [shockabuku] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

shockabuku wrote:

The route that Stone Summit has up is not the full length route used in international speed comps.

It is the youth B, A, and juniors route that they will use at the "youth" nationals this summer, right? Is the route at Stone Summit the first 30 feet of the full 45 foot route for international competitions?


JasonsDrivingForce


May 3, 2011, 7:08 AM
Post #37 of 38 (3190 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 3, 2009
Posts: 687

Re: [olderic] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

olderic wrote:
Not 30 m - either 10 or 15 is the standard:

http://www.epusa.com/..._Wall_Tech_Pages.pdf

Yes that is correct. Sorry that was a supposed to be 30 feet instead of 30 meters.


shockabuku


May 3, 2011, 7:24 AM
Post #38 of 38 (3187 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4849

Re: [JasonsDrivingForce] training for speed climbing competitions? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

JasonsDrivingForce wrote:
shockabuku wrote:

The route that Stone Summit has up is not the full length route used in international speed comps.

It is the youth B, A, and juniors route that they will use at the "youth" nationals this summer, right?
Yes, at least presumably.

In reply to:
Is the route at Stone Summit the first 30 feet of the full 45 foot route for international competitions?
I believe so though I've heard there were a few minor modifications besides the length - I'm not sure where/what.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Competition Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook