I bought the Reverso3, but i like the ATC guide better. What do you guys think?

I bought the Reverso3, but i like the ATC guide better. What do you guys think?

I bought the Reverso3, but i like the ATC guide better. What do you guys think?

I have found the teeth to make no difference. the anodizing on the reverso3 makes the device extra slippery, especially on newer ropes. I do notice that when belaying a second, the BD version and the reverso when clipped in to the anchor are oriented perpendicular to each other, not sure which is better, since I only have the one. I prefer chicken ramen noodles over the beef.

why not turn the device around?

yes. here check out the third small pic.
http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/...lay-rappel/atc-guide

why don't i just turn around, or just turn my head, and leave the device as is, or bring a mirror, and look only at my belay device through that

sounds good, one condition, you send me a brand new BD ATC Guide. I'll send you my used reverso

My wife is way too light, I have to feed the rope when I lower her or other lighter people. I have purposely avoided devices with teeth for this reason, it’s completely unnecessary unless you have no grip strength or a limp wrist. I even went out and bought the fattest locker I could find to make it run smoother and it helped but not enough. If you want or need teeth fine I just wish there was an option without.

Oh I see what you’re saying. Yeah I could do that for regular belay but I also don’t like the amount of friction in the autoblock mode. Maybe I’m just bitching about something that doesn’t matter but personally I really don’t like it and would rather think about other things like eating or enjoying the scenery then fighting with my belay device when I’m three four pitches up. I’ve only used it in autoblock mode a couple of times so far and really don’t like the resistance compared to my original reverso but that’s too worn out now and I don’t think they sell them anymore. Maybe I’ll just make my own (don’t tell my wife I just said that, I told her today I wanted to make my own skis, she’s ok with the craziness so far but I don’t want to push it).

I think that yellow is a nice color, and I think my truck needs a camper shell, but not as badly as I need a real job.

What about the Kong Ghost or Trango B-52?

It is hard to belay up two seconds using fat ropes with the Reverso. I've heard it's easier with the BD but haven't used it for that purpose so I don't know.

I've used both and I think each has its own merits. When belaying the second in autoblock mode, you can clip a Petzl Spirit biner through the hole on the bottom of the Reverso if you need to and use that to lower out/give slack. The hole is there on the BD, but you have to tie cord to it to get a biner through.

It is hard to belay up two seconds using fat ropes with the Reverso. I've heard it's easier with the BD but haven't used it for that purpose so I don't know.

madrock madlock for the win.

http://www.madrockclimbing.com/madlockbelaydevice.aspx

So you're saying that you should be using it on the low friction side and your wife should use it on the high friction side?

Too much friction in auto-block mode? The whole point is that the rope won't move....it's blocked.

Perhaps just give the Guide to your wife and learn to use a munter.

I bought the Reverso3, but i like the ATC guide better. What do you guys think?

I've used both and I think each has its own merits. When belaying the second in autoblock mode, you can clip a Petzl Spirit biner through the hole on the bottom of the Reverso if you need to and use that to lower out/give slack. The hole is there on the BD, but you have to tie cord to it to get a biner through.

It is hard to belay up two seconds using fat ropes with the Reverso. I've heard it's easier with the BD but haven't used it for that purpose so I don't know.

you mean the device that's a cheap ripoff of the old petzl reverso- the one that tends to turn into a knife over time? there's a reason petzl changed the design- even if they wont actually say that in press releases.

yeah? but it opens beer bottles.

teach me more.

I think the ATC guide without teeth is exactly what I want but it’s just not made.

I can’t but Kong, I don’t have a rational reason for it I just can’t.

I think the ATC guide without teeth is exactly what I want but it’s just not made.

I can’t buy [fixed?] Kong, I don’t have a rational reason for it I just can’t.

Edit: I never looked at the Madlock before, is it even an autoblock? It doesn’t look like it has an autoblock mode just a bottle opener.

I’m disappointed with both. I hate this new trend of putting teeth on belay devices and wish they would come out with an option that didn’t have them in a reverso type device.

Perhaps, my friend,you should try the Kong ghost. Wife got me one for christmas and it is da bees knees. Oh yeah, and thats MY favorite.

So why not just clean the teeth off of it? A bastard file will take care of it in no time. Just go slow and be careful.

My wife has her own belay device.



Do you know how these devices work? Or perhaps you don’t understand what I mean; I’m not talking about lowering in autoblock mode I’m talking about pulling slack. I’ve used an autoblock for years, I just don’t care for the way these devices work. I’m sure some people find it useful I personally don’t like it.

I bought the Reverso3, but i like the ATC guide better. What do you guys think?

I haven't used a reverso, but the BD guide isn't too smooth with the fatter ropes. I was just messing around with it in guide mode using a 10.5 rope. Seems like it would be quite the workout. I threw in another biner just to see if it would be smoother, not too much...

I don't buy Kong and I don't shop at Kmart. Maybe Kong has improved their products since the last time I looked at their catalog but it always looked like cheap shit to me.

The Kong looks okay, it does somehow look cheap.

Biggest thing for me is I am not a big fan of metal on metal.

You could use something like a dmm belay master, but the metal there might pop that plastic spacer right out.

I would hate to see some of the twist action that thing could do on a gate. May not be a problem, but it does remind me on an eight.

Does the kong have any sort of lowering feature for belaying a second?

I didn't say it was cheap, just looked it, to me.

Well, the grigri and most all the auto locking are a little different, with its smaller slot. The revers(ino?) has a wider metal piece.

What i was talking about with the belay biner, there had been some bad things going on with the figure eight belay. Seems that someone died because the metal eye got positioned over the gate and the metal on metal (twist action I suppose) broke the twisty ring to lock the biner. Apparently, with most biners it only takes a few hundred pounds to break the gate with an inward force. This couldn't happen with a regular atc. Kinda scared me from using my 8, but I probably still will, I just need to watch it. I have noticed a few times using the figure 8 that the eye can easily be positioned over the gate.

It just seems to me that a soft connection is a much better idea. I am allowed to have my own opinion, I hope. The kong (and other models) have wider eyes, which would make it a lot safer methinks.

Yeah, I guess you could use that loop to lower someone. Just girth a sling on her.

Alright, think i'm done talking.

Someone said above that I should grind the teeth off and I've thought about that but I think I'll just make a device that has everything I want rather than try to modify one that exist.

The last time I looked at Kong gear was about 8-9 years ago when I first started climbing and was building my rack. I had friends that had some of their cams, nuts, bineers, and even a funky ass belay device and all of it looked like shit kinda like Gear4Rocks does now. I ended up buying Trango Flex cams which the old school cams didn’t look as clean and professional as other cams or as they do now but after buying one and using it I didn’t care. After playing with a Kong cam I was convinced I’d never own one. I’ve never had anyone defend Kong when I said it was shit before so I never looked at their stuff since but I just went to their web site and I admit it looks a hell of a lot better than it used to. So now my complaint against the Kong Ghost is it doesn’t have a built in way to lower.

I guess Harbor Freight would be a better example than Kmart but I do shop at Harbor Freight for some things, the difference is I don’t hang my life on them.

Someone said above that I should grind the teeth off and I’ve thought about that but I think I’ll just make a device that has everything I want rather than try to modify one that exist.

It must be nice being a machinist having access to the equipment to make your own gear! Why not try building a funky belay device with your own twist. howabout these...

Guide...I know it's heavier and more difficult to break, but I think it feeds much smoother. The Reverso feeds lousy with even moderately thick ropes.

But again...chicken or beef.

I'm sure that's sarcasm (I think), but what I mean is difficult to "unbreak" in autoblock mode when a second has fallen. ie., that little hole that you take a carabiner or cord to release the tension.

I've considered that.


Edit: Sorry about the thread jack.

Wow...I don't know if I'm more impressed that you can look up a word, or the fact that your able to pick apart a post for my using verbage that doesn't exactly correlate with Webster's definition.

No one in the history of man has ever used a word in a fashion that differs from it's original definition. That's why dictionaries are never updated and colloquialism doesn't exist.

I would imagine there's a thread somewhere that urgently needs you to contribute nothing to it...

What about the Kong Ghost or Trango B-52?

That being said, if I'm going to be using super skinny lines (sub 9.5 singles) all day long, I might whip out the reverso3. It does tend to have a little more braking power with skinny ropes. Anything above 9.5, though and it's just a little stickier in comparison to the guide, which can be annoying.

Wow...I don't know if I'm more impressed that you can look up a word, or the fact that your able to pick apart a post for my using verbage that doesn't exactly correlate with Webster's definition.

No one in the history of man has ever used a word in a fashion that differs from it's original definition. That's why dictionaries are never updated and colloquialism doesn't exist.

I would imagine there's a thread somewhere that urgently needs you to contribute nothing to it...

I didn't realize this was scrutinizemypostsformispellingsthensayi'msorry.com.

Next time I'll run any posts through a proofreader so I can avoid the public shame.

Can we return this thread to actually talking about climbing? I clarified my original post, I didn't ask for a lesson on spelling or the application of words. Jeezzzz

Anything that looks like the Enterprise is bound to perform well!

"Beam me up!"

Dear Luke,
Scotty and I have long reconciled our differences. Since then, we have discovered a mutual love for small furry animals. They are delicious. To cut a long story short, we got married and have had two children. They're about your age, now.

-Shoo

I do not see how it looks any different in quality compared to the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl Reverso 3. Perhaps it's the non-studio quality of the photos on Storrick's site?

<SNIP>

I can't be the only one who doesn't SEE a difference in quality when looking at these photos.

hey pilot who makes the ghost? and where did you pick it up?

I've used both and I think each has its own merits. When belaying the second in autoblock mode, you can clip a Petzl Spirit biner through the hole on the bottom of the Reverso if you need to and use that to lower out/give slack. The hole is there on the BD, but you have to tie cord to it to get a biner through.

It is hard to belay up two seconds using fat ropes with the Reverso. I've heard it's easier with the BD but haven't used it for that purpose so I don't know.

You don't need to tie anything through it... thread a #6 stopper through and clip a biner to that.

I’m disappointed with both. I hate this new trend of putting teeth on belay devices and wish they would come out with an option that didn’t have them in a reverso type device.