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Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop?
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hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 10:58 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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kennoyce wrote:
I'm with Jay on this one. I can't stand having anything girth hitched to either the belay loop or the tie in points. Girth hitched shoulder length slings always seem to be just a tad short for comfort, and I'm not about to drop $30+ on a PAS. I also like having as little on my belay loop/tie in points as possible to keep things a bit simpler. I find that it is really not much more difficult to use two trad draws with lockers that I have to clip to my belay loop. This method keeps my belay loop much less clustered than having something girth hitched to it.

I'm the same way about clutter on the front of my harness, can't stand it. Nothing stays there that isn't being used.

I use a modified version of a purcell prusik, made of 18ft 5mm cord, doubled so it's fully redundant along it's whole length. It's adjustable from 2 to 5 feet, and the anchor end has 2 ears so I can clip 2 anchor points if I want to. For about $7 worth of cord I have a tether that is better than a PAS.


hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 11:07 AM
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Re: [potreroed] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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potreroed wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
I like the PAS for that reason too(although at the Gunks, "multiple raps" means....2.

But I have seen the few times a partner had tied in with rope and had to switch out for the rappel. Not a big deal, of course, but for myself, I would rather have the PAS(or sling clip-in) off the bat. At least on the pitches where I know I would be rapping from.

The one thing I simply see as truly embarrassing, is when someone runs the PAS or knotted sling(or worse a set of them) from the front of their harness, under their crotch, and to some connection on the back of their harness. Call me a prude - I just don't like drawing attention to "that" part of my body. Or maybe more aptly, if someone is looking at that part of my body, I don't want it to be because I have a *SlingThong* wedgie....

Guys - Imagine taking a screwed up whip and having that thing snag on a tree branch on the way down..... YEOWCH!

I don't understand that under the crotch thing either--especially having only one remaining testicle!!

He'd better watch out, that last one might get slap-chopped.

http://vodpod.com/...-parody-love-my-nuts


csproul


Apr 27, 2010, 11:40 AM
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Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
I'm with Jay on this one. I can't stand having anything girth hitched to either the belay loop or the tie in points. Girth hitched shoulder length slings always seem to be just a tad short for comfort, and I'm not about to drop $30+ on a PAS. I also like having as little on my belay loop/tie in points as possible to keep things a bit simpler. I find that it is really not much more difficult to use two trad draws with lockers that I have to clip to my belay loop. This method keeps my belay loop much less clustered than having something girth hitched to it.

I'm the same way about clutter on the front of my harness, can't stand it. Nothing stays there that isn't being used.

I use a modified version of a purcell prusik, made of 18ft 5mm cord, doubled so it's fully redundant along it's whole length. It's adjustable from 2 to 5 feet, and the anchor end has 2 ears so I can clip 2 anchor points if I want to. For about $7 worth of cord I have a tether that is better than a PAS.
See, to me, that sounds like a lot of clutter.


hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 11:59 AM
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Re: [csproul] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
I'm with Jay on this one. I can't stand having anything girth hitched to either the belay loop or the tie in points. Girth hitched shoulder length slings always seem to be just a tad short for comfort, and I'm not about to drop $30+ on a PAS. I also like having as little on my belay loop/tie in points as possible to keep things a bit simpler. I find that it is really not much more difficult to use two trad draws with lockers that I have to clip to my belay loop. This method keeps my belay loop much less clustered than having something girth hitched to it.

I'm the same way about clutter on the front of my harness, can't stand it. Nothing stays there that isn't being used.

I use a modified version of a purcell prusik, made of 18ft 5mm cord, doubled so it's fully redundant along it's whole length. It's adjustable from 2 to 5 feet, and the anchor end has 2 ears so I can clip 2 anchor points if I want to. For about $7 worth of cord I have a tether that is better than a PAS.
See, to me, that sounds like a lot of clutter.

Then you're probably not envisioning it correctly. No more clutter than 2 biners and a runner, except the runner has some knots in it.


csproul


Apr 27, 2010, 12:09 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
I'm with Jay on this one. I can't stand having anything girth hitched to either the belay loop or the tie in points. Girth hitched shoulder length slings always seem to be just a tad short for comfort, and I'm not about to drop $30+ on a PAS. I also like having as little on my belay loop/tie in points as possible to keep things a bit simpler. I find that it is really not much more difficult to use two trad draws with lockers that I have to clip to my belay loop. This method keeps my belay loop much less clustered than having something girth hitched to it.

I'm the same way about clutter on the front of my harness, can't stand it. Nothing stays there that isn't being used.

I use a modified version of a purcell prusik, made of 18ft 5mm cord, doubled so it's fully redundant along it's whole length. It's adjustable from 2 to 5 feet, and the anchor end has 2 ears so I can clip 2 anchor points if I want to. For about $7 worth of cord I have a tether that is better than a PAS.
See, to me, that sounds like a lot of clutter.

Then you're probably not envisioning it correctly. No more clutter than 2 biners and a runner, except the runner has some knots in it.
No it's not that...it's that you are carrying something that is always there and serves no other purpose, unlike the pair of slings/draws I have already carried up to use while climbing. Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with your system (or the PAS, or whatever else). You can use whatever you like and it's cool with me. I just have no desire to carry any extraneous equipment for the extra convenience of a personal anchoring system. You obviously feel it is worth the added convenience, and that's ok too.


bennydh


Apr 27, 2010, 12:30 PM
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Re: [csproul] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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csproul & Dingus,

I'm amazed that either of you would carry something that is already likely to be on your harness whilst climbing, and to use that in a practical application instead of carry a PAS, or the likes... Lunacy. Pure craziness.

Dingus, I like this insight better than the 'small circle of friends' insight, on the topic of unsolicitation. Tongue


Stormeh


Apr 27, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Re: [bennydh] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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I carry a PAS girth hitched around my tie in points, and it's pretty nice. Before I bought the PAS I used extendable slings and biners, and the PAS is a bit nicer than that due to the adjustability of it. Not sure if it's $30 + clutter nicer, but still nicer.

It's amazing to me that we can get 3 pages of discussion on this issue (which is clearly a SMALL issue of preference,) yet useful threads often die on the vine around here.

But man, this thread has some awesome posts from Majid in it.


hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 12:51 PM
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Re: [csproul] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
I'm with Jay on this one. I can't stand having anything girth hitched to either the belay loop or the tie in points. Girth hitched shoulder length slings always seem to be just a tad short for comfort, and I'm not about to drop $30+ on a PAS. I also like having as little on my belay loop/tie in points as possible to keep things a bit simpler. I find that it is really not much more difficult to use two trad draws with lockers that I have to clip to my belay loop. This method keeps my belay loop much less clustered than having something girth hitched to it.

I'm the same way about clutter on the front of my harness, can't stand it. Nothing stays there that isn't being used.

I use a modified version of a purcell prusik, made of 18ft 5mm cord, doubled so it's fully redundant along it's whole length. It's adjustable from 2 to 5 feet, and the anchor end has 2 ears so I can clip 2 anchor points if I want to. For about $7 worth of cord I have a tether that is better than a PAS.
See, to me, that sounds like a lot of clutter.

Then you're probably not envisioning it correctly. No more clutter than 2 biners and a runner, except the runner has some knots in it.
No it's not that...it's that you are carrying something that is always there and serves no other purpose, unlike the pair of slings/draws I have already carried up to use while climbing. Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with your system (or the PAS, or whatever else). You can use whatever you like and it's cool with me. I just have no desire to carry any extraneous equipment for the extra convenience of a personal anchoring system. You obviously feel it is worth the added convenience, and that's ok too.

I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

1. I carry the minimal slings and pro that I anticipate I will need, so it's not uncommon that I've used all my slings up by the top of the pitch (your 2 slings/draws are just as much extraneous gear as my tether if you didn't use them on the pitch).

2. Adjustability is important to me for those situations where anchor placement doesn't facilitate optimal belay position.

3. It's faster than using the rope (clip, clip, done), especially at hanging belays, and leaves the full length of rope available for those occasional maxed out pitches.

4. It impresses the honeys.

See? You're technique requires just as much extraneous gear as mine, but you get none of the above benefits.

Sly


csproul


Apr 27, 2010, 1:10 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
I'm with Jay on this one. I can't stand having anything girth hitched to either the belay loop or the tie in points. Girth hitched shoulder length slings always seem to be just a tad short for comfort, and I'm not about to drop $30+ on a PAS. I also like having as little on my belay loop/tie in points as possible to keep things a bit simpler. I find that it is really not much more difficult to use two trad draws with lockers that I have to clip to my belay loop. This method keeps my belay loop much less clustered than having something girth hitched to it.

I'm the same way about clutter on the front of my harness, can't stand it. Nothing stays there that isn't being used.

I use a modified version of a purcell prusik, made of 18ft 5mm cord, doubled so it's fully redundant along it's whole length. It's adjustable from 2 to 5 feet, and the anchor end has 2 ears so I can clip 2 anchor points if I want to. For about $7 worth of cord I have a tether that is better than a PAS.
See, to me, that sounds like a lot of clutter.

Then you're probably not envisioning it correctly. No more clutter than 2 biners and a runner, except the runner has some knots in it.
No it's not that...it's that you are carrying something that is always there and serves no other purpose, unlike the pair of slings/draws I have already carried up to use while climbing. Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with your system (or the PAS, or whatever else). You can use whatever you like and it's cool with me. I just have no desire to carry any extraneous equipment for the extra convenience of a personal anchoring system. You obviously feel it is worth the added convenience, and that's ok too.

I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

1. I carry the minimal slings and pro that I anticipate I will need, so it's not uncommon that I've used all my slings up by the top of the pitch (your 2 slings/draws are just as much extraneous gear as my tether if you didn't use them on the pitch).

2. Adjustability is important to me for those situations where anchor placement doesn't facilitate optimal belay position.

3. It's faster than using the rope (clip, clip, done), especially at hanging belays, and leaves the full length of rope available for those occasional maxed out pitches.

4. It impresses the honeys.

See? You're technique requires just as much extraneous gear as mine, but you get none of the above benefits.

Sly
I don't use slings to anchor when I get to the end of a pitch, I use the rope. So I still can arrive at the belay without slings, and I still have less gear than you do. So argument #1 doesn't mean a lot to me. Adjustability...I use the rope, so I can anchor in as long or short as I like, so argument #2 doesn't mean a whole lot to me either. It may be faster (I doubt it), but not enough that I'm going to worry about it.

The only place I can see some benefit would be while rapping off a route and having a more adjustable tether at rap stations. In this case, it is extraneous gear; you and I would still be carrying the gear we climbed up with, and you would be carrying an extra piece of gear. You find some value in carrying this extra gear. I do not. As far as the honeys...I doubt I'd want any of the girls that'd be impressed with a Purcell Prusik.

I'm still not sure why people get worked up about this. Like I said, I don't care what you or my climbing partners use, as long as it's safe. If y'all want to carry a daisy/sling/Purcell/PAS...whatever...knock yourself out, as long as you are safe and can use your system efficiently.


(This post was edited by csproul on Apr 27, 2010, 1:14 PM)


dingus


Apr 27, 2010, 1:18 PM
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Re: [csproul] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
I'm still not sure why people get worked up about this.

Because when you criticize climbing tool usage you are really criticizing the climbing tools themselves!

Hah!

DMT


swoopee


Apr 27, 2010, 1:19 PM
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Re: [hafilax] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
potreroed wrote:
happiegrrrl wrote:
I like the PAS for that reason too(although at the Gunks, "multiple raps" means....2.

But I have seen the few times a partner had tied in with rope and had to switch out for the rappel. Not a big deal, of course, but for myself, I would rather have the PAS(or sling clip-in) off the bat. At least on the pitches where I know I would be rapping from.

The one thing I simply see as truly embarrassing, is when someone runs the PAS or knotted sling(or worse a set of them) from the front of their harness, under their crotch, and to some connection on the back of their harness. Call me a prude - I just don't like drawing attention to "that" part of my body. Or maybe more aptly, if someone is looking at that part of my body, I don't want it to be because I have a *SlingThong* wedgie....

Guys - Imagine taking a screwed up whip and having that thing snag on a tree branch on the way down..... YEOWCH!

I don't understand that under the crotch thing either--especially having only one remaining testicle!!
Whillans accident?

So I am not the only one who didn't like the Whillans Sit Harness? I still have mine. I sometimes think I will break it out and wear it at the gym, but then I come to my senses. Wink

BTW, I actually like the PAS and keep one girth hitched to my belay loop. Every time I put my harness on, I inspect both the PAS and belay loop for wear, and turn the belay loop. I don't pass the PAS under my crotch though. I still have a Whillans if I ever want to do massive damage to that area.


hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 1:26 PM
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csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
csproul wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
I'm with Jay on this one. I can't stand having anything girth hitched to either the belay loop or the tie in points. Girth hitched shoulder length slings always seem to be just a tad short for comfort, and I'm not about to drop $30+ on a PAS. I also like having as little on my belay loop/tie in points as possible to keep things a bit simpler. I find that it is really not much more difficult to use two trad draws with lockers that I have to clip to my belay loop. This method keeps my belay loop much less clustered than having something girth hitched to it.

I'm the same way about clutter on the front of my harness, can't stand it. Nothing stays there that isn't being used.

I use a modified version of a purcell prusik, made of 18ft 5mm cord, doubled so it's fully redundant along it's whole length. It's adjustable from 2 to 5 feet, and the anchor end has 2 ears so I can clip 2 anchor points if I want to. For about $7 worth of cord I have a tether that is better than a PAS.
See, to me, that sounds like a lot of clutter.

Then you're probably not envisioning it correctly. No more clutter than 2 biners and a runner, except the runner has some knots in it.
No it's not that...it's that you are carrying something that is always there and serves no other purpose, unlike the pair of slings/draws I have already carried up to use while climbing. Don't get me wrong, I have no problem with your system (or the PAS, or whatever else). You can use whatever you like and it's cool with me. I just have no desire to carry any extraneous equipment for the extra convenience of a personal anchoring system. You obviously feel it is worth the added convenience, and that's ok too.

I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

1. I carry the minimal slings and pro that I anticipate I will need, so it's not uncommon that I've used all my slings up by the top of the pitch (your 2 slings/draws are just as much extraneous gear as my tether if you didn't use them on the pitch).

2. Adjustability is important to me for those situations where anchor placement doesn't facilitate optimal belay position.

3. It's faster than using the rope (clip, clip, done), especially at hanging belays, and leaves the full length of rope available for those occasional maxed out pitches.

4. It impresses the honeys.

See? You're technique requires just as much extraneous gear as mine, but you get none of the above benefits.

Sly
I don't use slings to anchor when I get to the end of a pitch, I use the rope. So I still can arrive at the belay without slings, and I still have less gear than you do. So argument #1 doesn't mean a lot to me. Adjustability...I use the rope, so I can anchor in as long or short as I like, so argument #2 doesn't mean a whole lot to me either. It may be faster (I doubt it), but not enough that I'm going to worry about it.

The only place I can see some benefit would be while rapping off a route and having a more adjustable tether at rap stations. In this case, it is extraneous gear; you and I would still be carrying the gear we climbed up with, and you would be carrying an extra piece of gear. You find some value in carrying this extra gear. I do not. As far as the honeys...I doubt I'd want any of the girls that'd be impressed with a Purcell Prusik.

I'm still not sure why people get worked up about this. Like I said, I don't care what you or my climbing partners use, as long as it's safe. If y'all want to carry a daisy/sling/Purcell/PAS...whatever...knock yourself out, as long as you are safe and can use your system efficiently.

Well you haven't seen the honeys I pull, now have you? Heheh.

I rarely use the rope to anchor because most of the time I'm leading in blocks, so that makes the benefits of more value to me than they would be to you.

I'm with you on whatever fits one's preferences as long as it is safe. No gettin worked up, just yackin about nerdy crap.


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2010, 1:28 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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The guy who carries the purcell prussic wrote:
I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

Hahahahaha!

That's a good one!

Because yeah, when I'm rappelling, I've used up all my slings on what, exactly?

Don't get me wrong, at least your purcel prussic is better than that POS, I mean PAS so many folks are carrying around. But both are not "needed" whatsoever in multipitch sport or trad.

GO


hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 1:32 PM
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cracklover wrote:
The guy who carries the purcell prussic wrote:
I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

Hahahahaha!

That's a good one!

Because yeah, when I'm rappelling, I've used up all my slings on what, exactly?

Don't get me wrong, at least your purcel prussic is better than that POS, I mean PAS so many folks are carrying around. But both are not "needed" whatsoever in multipitch sport or trad.

GO

Who is talking about rappelling?


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2010, 1:35 PM
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Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
I rarely use the rope to anchor because most of the time I'm leading in blocks, so that makes the benefits of more value to me than they would be to you.

???

Sorry, but that makes no sense that I can see. Let's say I'm leading in blocks. My second gets to the anchor, gives me the gear, and puts me on belay. Here's what I have to do to start leading:

1 - Unclip one locking biner from my anchor and pop the clove hitch off it.
2 - Clip the biner to a gear loop.

Wow, that was hard. Do explain how your method saves so much time compared to mine.

GO


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2010, 1:42 PM
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hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
The guy who carries the purcell prussic wrote:
I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

Hahahahaha!

That's a good one!

Because yeah, when I'm rappelling, I've used up all my slings on what, exactly?

Don't get me wrong, at least your purcel prussic is better than that POS, I mean PAS so many folks are carrying around. But both are not "needed" whatsoever in multipitch sport or trad.

GO

Who is talking about rappelling?

Anyone who claims to be a weight nazi should be. Aside from rappelling, the tie in rope is always the perfect thing to anchor in with, unless you've invented a weightless purcell prusic?

GO


dingus


Apr 27, 2010, 1:56 PM
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Why does every gear thread here turn into a pissing match?

DMT


bennydh


Apr 27, 2010, 1:59 PM
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cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
The guy who carries the purcell prussic wrote:
I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

Hahahahaha!

That's a good one!

Because yeah, when I'm rappelling, I've used up all my slings on what, exactly?

Don't get me wrong, at least your purcel prussic is better than that POS, I mean PAS so many folks are carrying around. But both are not "needed" whatsoever in multipitch sport or trad.

GO

Who is talking about rappelling?

Anyone who claims to be a weight nazi should be. Aside from rappelling, the tie in rope is always the perfect thing to anchor in with, unless you've invented a weightless purcell prusic?

GO

I invented a weightless and invisible purcell prusic... unfortunately its even more impractical than a visible one. I often forget where I put it on my harness, and I have to use extendables, or use cloves on the rope end I'm tied into instead. Unsure


majid_sabet


Apr 27, 2010, 2:04 PM
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Re: [dingus] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Why does every gear thread here turn into a pissing match?

DMT

I love pissing match in RC. its entertaining after page 4


hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 2:24 PM
Post #70 of 146 (1645 views)
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875

Re: [cracklover] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
The guy who carries the purcell prussic wrote:
I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

Hahahahaha!

That's a good one!

Because yeah, when I'm rappelling, I've used up all my slings on what, exactly?

Don't get me wrong, at least your purcel prussic is better than that POS, I mean PAS so many folks are carrying around. But both are not "needed" whatsoever in multipitch sport or trad.

GO

Who is talking about rappelling?

Anyone who claims to be a weight nazi should be. Aside from rappelling, the tie in rope is always the perfect thing to anchor in with, unless you've invented a weightless purcell prusic?

GO

Well if you think weight is my only consideration then you didn't read my posts very well. I trade the weight of some gear for the weight of other gear that offers me more benefit. I trade a couple slings for 3 ounces of cord that gives me more benefits than just using the rope does.


patmay81


Apr 27, 2010, 2:32 PM
Post #71 of 146 (1633 views)
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Posts: 1081

Re: [angry] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
To prevent the wear, I cannibalized a Mammut harness with the little plastic tie in protector thing. The new harness has been used about 120 days and still looks brand new.

I'll transfer that little plastic thingy from one harness to another now that I've got it. Too bad only Mammut harnesses come with it.

I just tossed an old Mammut harness, i didnt even think about pulling the plastic tie in protector off! thats a great idea, I shoulda kept it... oh well, better luck next time.


hafilax


Apr 27, 2010, 2:33 PM
Post #72 of 146 (1630 views)
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Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
The guy who carries the purcell prussic wrote:
I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

Hahahahaha!

That's a good one!

Because yeah, when I'm rappelling, I've used up all my slings on what, exactly?

Don't get me wrong, at least your purcel prussic is better than that POS, I mean PAS so many folks are carrying around. But both are not "needed" whatsoever in multipitch sport or trad.

GO

Who is talking about rappelling?

Anyone who claims to be a weight nazi should be. Aside from rappelling, the tie in rope is always the perfect thing to anchor in with, unless you've invented a weightless purcell prusic?

GO

Well if you think weight is my only consideration then you didn't read my posts very well. I trade the weight of some gear for the weight of other gear that offers me more benefit. I trade a couple slings for 3 ounces of cord that gives me more benefits than just using the rope does.
Could someone write this out as an equation for me. I'd really like to optimize this properly.


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2010, 2:38 PM
Post #73 of 146 (1627 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9978

Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
The guy who carries the purcell prussic wrote:
I am a weight nazi, so I carry nothing I won't need.

Hahahahaha!

That's a good one!

Because yeah, when I'm rappelling, I've used up all my slings on what, exactly?

Don't get me wrong, at least your purcel prussic is better than that POS, I mean PAS so many folks are carrying around. But both are not "needed" whatsoever in multipitch sport or trad.

GO

Who is talking about rappelling?

Anyone who claims to be a weight nazi should be. Aside from rappelling, the tie in rope is always the perfect thing to anchor in with, unless you've invented a weightless purcell prusic?

GO

Well if you think weight is my only consideration then you didn't read my posts very well. I trade the weight of some gear for the weight of other gear that offers me more benefit. I trade a couple slings for 3 ounces of cord that gives me more benefits than just using the rope does.

Which "couple of slings" is that? You're trading a purcell prussic for the *nothing* that I carry. You keep missing the point that you're simply carrying *extra* gear.

If it makes you happy, cool. But calling yourself a "weight nazi" is just kinda funny to me.

GO


hugepedro


Apr 27, 2010, 2:44 PM
Post #74 of 146 (1622 views)
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Registered: May 28, 2002
Posts: 2875

Re: [cracklover] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I rarely use the rope to anchor because most of the time I'm leading in blocks, so that makes the benefits of more value to me than they would be to you.

???

Sorry, but that makes no sense that I can see. Let's say I'm leading in blocks. My second gets to the anchor, gives me the gear, and puts me on belay. Here's what I have to do to start leading:

1 - Unclip one locking biner from my anchor and pop the clove hitch off it.
2 - Clip the biner to a gear loop.

Wow, that was hard. Do explain how your method saves so much time compared to mine.

GO

I took CSPROULís comment as he was using the rope to rig the primary anchor, perhaps he isnít.

But, Iím not just talking about speed in leaving the belay, but speed and ease in creating the belay, and as Iíve already mentioned, especially at hanging belays.

And, my usual multi-pitch rope is my set of 7.7mm ice twins, because they give me full length rappels for the weight of a single rope. One disadvantage of 2 skinny cords is that they can get tangled easier, and flipping the stack doesnít always prevent that issue, so itís not unusual that I will switch ends of the rope.

Another advantage over using the rope is that I can adjust my tether even when Iím out of armís length from the anchor because the way I rigged it the prusik always remains 8 inches from my harness.

And donít forget, I get the honeys.


Partner cracklover


Apr 27, 2010, 3:04 PM
Post #75 of 146 (1592 views)
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 9978

Re: [hugepedro] Safety Sling, Girth-hitch to tie ins or belay loop? [In reply to]
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hugepedro wrote:
cracklover wrote:
hugepedro wrote:
I rarely use the rope to anchor because most of the time I'm leading in blocks, so that makes the benefits of more value to me than they would be to you.

???

Sorry, but that makes no sense that I can see. Let's say I'm leading in blocks. My second gets to the anchor, gives me the gear, and puts me on belay. Here's what I have to do to start leading:

1 - Unclip one locking biner from my anchor and pop the clove hitch off it.
2 - Clip the biner to a gear loop.

Wow, that was hard. Do explain how your method saves so much time compared to mine.

GO

I took CSPROULís comment as he was using the rope to rig the primary anchor, perhaps he isnít.

Huh? This whole thread has been about attachments to the anchor! Or are you going to tell me that you've been arguing about using your purcell prussic itself as an anchor, now? Like, instead of a cordelette or whatever?

In reply to:
But, Iím not just talking about speed in leaving the belay, but speed and ease in creating the belay, and as Iíve already mentioned, especially at hanging belays.

Hmm... okay - I get to belay, and I either:
1 - clove hitch rope to anchor, adjust (if I'm going to be within four feet of the anchor) or
2 - clip rope through locking biner on the anchor, walk/climb back to where I'm belaying, clove hitch to locker on my belay loop (if I'm five to thirty feet from the anchor.)

Quick, and much more versatile than your purcell prussic. And, again, no extra gear.

In reply to:
And, my usual multi-pitch rope is my set of 7.7mm ice twins, because they give me full length rappels for the weight of a single rope. One disadvantage of 2 skinny cords is that they can get tangled easier, and flipping the stack doesnít always prevent that issue, so itís not unusual that I will switch ends of the rope.

Okay. Since you and your second are both at the anchor, and there are tons of slings, I don't know why you need a separate piece of gear just to trade ends of the rope. But sure, if it makes you happy, that's cool. Not even relevant for my climbing, though. If I lead in blocks, I usually just have the second reflake the rope(s) from their end as I grab gear off their harness.

In reply to:
Another advantage over using the rope is that I can adjust my tether even when Iím out of armís length from the anchor because the way I rigged it the prusik always remains 8 inches from my harness.

You don't have nearly the adjustability I do. See above.

In reply to:
And donít forget, I get the honeys.

I'm all set on that front. <insert bad joke about how much she enjoys how I use my rope>

GO

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