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squishy654


May 14, 2010, 9:26 AM
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Link us to the video once it comes out, or is it already out?


hafilax


May 14, 2010, 9:28 AM
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evanwish wrote:
Just wondering, why do you use such small lobes with such small range?
I considered this design before, and realized, if you use really large lobes, and use the the full logrithmic spiral then you could get much much more range.
If the gap behind the flake is small then you need small lobes. With lobes of different size it tends to rotate out of place and doesn't work as well.

All of the adjustment comes from the threaded rod. Rock isn't very compressible so you don't need that much range from the cam lobes. Just enough to make up for flexing in the fixture and the shape of the rock.


mattmaddaloni


May 14, 2010, 10:05 AM
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The final episode is out, the Season over. What a ride, another adventure survived. Check it out at http://www.arcteryx.com

In one week see it in High Definition at http://www.theseasontv.com



Thanks everyone who helped and especially Bryan Smith and Fitz Cahal who believed in me and my vision. We ALL have a story to tell and I thank you for helping me tell mine, cheers.
mm
Attachments: Anticams-on-flake.jpg (51.8 KB)


mattmaddaloni


May 14, 2010, 10:12 AM
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Here is a drawing by Andrew showing his 3:1 pulley idea. Thanks bro
mm


Attachments: anticam-with-3-1-pulley.jpg (52.3 KB)


mattmaddaloni


May 14, 2010, 10:43 AM
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These pics show close ups of version 2.

You can see that the main spring that holds the cam initially to the flake is attached to the end barrel by bending through a drilled hole just above the spreader bolt hole.



The cam springs are shown here, notice where the spring attachment points are.



This shows the other side, notice the nut that allows the spring tension to be adjusted. In this photo the nut has been adjusted all the way to one side... I found some springs only needed 3/4 that distance.

Also note the spring wire that was used to stop the arms from sliding off the barrels and that the barrels need to rotate freely to help keep the bar aligned no matter what position the Anticam is in.




(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 14, 2010, 10:46 AM)
Attachments: main-spring.jpg (59.5 KB)
  cam-springs.jpg (49.5 KB)
  bolt-through-barrels.jpg (56.8 KB)


Partner cracklover


May 14, 2010, 12:10 PM
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Re: [mattmaddaloni] The Anticam [In reply to]
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mattmaddaloni wrote:
Today I redpointed the Guillotine Flake!!!

I had to climb 15 feet out horizontally from the last Anticam to where the flake became thick enough to hold a regular cam. Pumped out with new route wall grit under my feet, it was terrifying to get that cam in. There isn't a single foot hold until near the very end. Fifteen feet out from those Anticams put everything into perspective. I wasn't scared of that flake anymore, I finally had confidence in the anitcams, everything came together. I clipped that cam and knew I had it in the bag... 30 feet of underclinging later I just made it to the no hands rest and it was over. One year of dreaming, designing, training, preparation and stress. And it's done. WHAT AN ADVENTURE!!!!



and ya, you can actually watch the video tomorrow at http://www.arcteryx.com Bryan Smith with http://reelwaterproduction.com is busting out the editing tonight!

Congrats! That's a fantastic achievement!

GO


squish


May 14, 2010, 12:50 PM
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Re: [mattmaddaloni] The Anticam [In reply to]
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Hey Matt, this is Andrew, I'll reply to your email here. (I haven't been on this forum in a few years!)

Well, actually it's a 2:1 pulley, isn't it... Oops.

In reply to:
If webbing or rope is used there will be some small amount of stretch which will cause the cams on the rock to rotate until the stretch comes out. Not good! A wire cable could work better but it will be more difficult to bite into it with a cam.

Maybe a flat-woven cable would be the trick?

Yes, I thought about the stretch too and I saw you mentioned it on the forum. The sling or cable would have to be tightened down quite well, since any initial impact with slack in the system would more easily rotate the cams than tighten the sling. Needs testing, obviously... Maybe a better system for ratcheting it tight, too.

In reply to:
and if a large impact fall force occurs you will never be able to create enough force on the cam to undo it. This is like hanging on a carabiner and tightening its lock screw and then unweighting it and trying to unscrew the lock... jammed!

If you mean the cams will get jammed against the rock by the re-compressed stretch in the sling, I think this design should make it easier to release the tension in the sling than a locking screw against the frame.

Still, the tensioning/brake cam would have to be designed so it grabs but doesnít bind itself permanently shut either! Iíve never seen a stuck grigri, so Iím sure something could be designed with a rocker-style cam if necessary.

In reply to:
but that said I still think it is worth trying your idea, maybe I can get around some of the points I talked about. I added your drawing to the forum, hope you don't mind. If you do I can take it off.

I'm not an engineer, and this will obviously need some testing before you trust your life to it. I like the idea of putting it in the open; I think the more people take shots at it, the better it can be.


mattmaddaloni


May 14, 2010, 3:37 PM
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Re: [squish] The Anticam [In reply to]
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I might be wrong about this but I think the re-compressed force will be less with the bolt since there is less stretch in the system and the only stretch available is in the flexing of the arms.

Jeremy Frimer did his thesis on a Anticam like device not too long ago. His device had one large cam and a tooth. The tooth slipped between the flake and the wall. Three major issues were realized but over all his thesis was a success mind you not climbing ready. The one large cam caused the device to rotate until it popped off at about 800 lbs. The expansion range was very small and once loaded required a hammer to remove it. Even with a strong t-bar flange the device still flexed enough to 'bite' the rock in recompression.

Here is a photo of his device.



(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 14, 2010, 3:40 PM)
Attachments: jeremy-device.jpg (96.3 KB)


caughtinside


May 14, 2010, 3:54 PM
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mattmaddaloni wrote:
If you would like to see the Guillotine Flake getting an ascent (this week) with the Anticam check out
http://arcteryx.com
it will not be on The Seasons web site for another week.
mm

That was sweet! Thanks for posting.


squish


May 14, 2010, 4:06 PM
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Just one question: it's gorgeous outside, why aren't you climbing!? Tongue

Looking at your design again, I see you have a spring pulling the arms together. That actually seems to make more sense for placement than what I thought with the slider ratchet thing. Keeping the spring like you have it, you could then just tighten my design by pulling the sling through the bottom while pushing against the frame with a thumb. Hopefully a one-handed operation.

Not sure about the stretch re-compression, but it still seems my design should allow you to release it by letting in slack by opening the tensioner cam, which is not under sling tension.


majid_sabet


May 14, 2010, 4:23 PM
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mattmaddaloni wrote:
Here is a drawing by Andrew showing his 3:1 pulley idea. Thanks bro
mm

I had this design made a year go but the cable part on yours comes with bigger problem which i do not think you have figured out.


dingus


May 14, 2010, 4:43 PM
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Re: [hafilax] The Anticam [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
And what I'm getting at is that none of them will work as is for climbing.

I'm surprised you're not more enthusiastic about this given the homebrew cam competitions. How many of those have outdone what is already commercially available?

You know the deal... that device is NIH and therefore no good. Software development folks (dontchya dare call em engineers) have this malady BAD.

DMT


squish


May 14, 2010, 4:48 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
I had this design made a year go but the cable part on yours comes with bigger problem which i do not think you have figured out.

Right, not enough red arrows. Thanks, I'll get right on fixing that. Tongue


majid_sabet


May 14, 2010, 4:57 PM
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Re: [squish] The Anticam [In reply to]
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squish wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
I had this design made a year go but the cable part on yours comes with bigger problem which i do not think you have figured out.

Right, not enough red arrows. Thanks, I'll get right on fixing that. Tongue

do not underestimate my mechanical knowledge my man


dingus


May 14, 2010, 5:15 PM
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Mattmaddaloni that is so cool! Thanks for taking me through that journey. Interesting to me as well, coming to this thread for the first time just minutes ago, how the naysayers and 'it'll never fly know-it-alls' were silenced, utterly silenced, by your success.

I trust there are lessons for us all, therein.

Now I think kachoong's suggestion of adapting this to ice is brilliant.

Thanks again
DMT


mojomonkey


May 14, 2010, 9:02 PM
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I watched the last one but want to see it in action - do any of the videos show falls on one?


squish


May 14, 2010, 9:56 PM
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mojomonkey wrote:
I watched the last one but want to see it in action - do any of the videos show falls on one?
The Season Episode 15 shows Matt taking test falls on the first version.


bradley3297


May 16, 2010, 4:11 PM
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How hard is the flake. do you have a grade in mind.


Gmburns2000


May 16, 2010, 4:42 PM
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I can't add anything to the technical discussion, but I wanted to throw out congrats on not only bagging the route, but also doing so while having faith in your ideas. Well done.


tradrenn


May 16, 2010, 5:10 PM
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hafilax wrote:
It seems to me that it might be better to try an odd-leg calliper design with one straight arm that goes behind the flake and one bent arm that allows for some range. The symmetric design you just posted looks like it could leverage out on the flake if set wrong especially if the gap behind the flake is relatively small.

Odd-leg calliper:

So the end product would become Antitricam ?

Cool.


mattmaddaloni


May 16, 2010, 11:35 PM
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Re: [bradley3297] The Anticam [In reply to]
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Thanks everyone for the good energy, cheers.

I think the Guillotine Flake would be rated about 5.11+ if you could place cams but with the added time and energy it takes to place version 2 of the Anticam I'd say its harder. There are no foot holds of any kind on the vertical wall behind the flake. It is one huge burly undercling pitch for 60 feet. I had sent three 5.12+ cracks that week as I was training for it, so I know about where my power and endurance were at.

I was super pumped by the end of the pitch and I've never breathed so hard in my life. To place an Anticam I would hang on with one arm unclip an Anticam with the other and just get it on the flake before I'd have to grab on again with both to stop from falling off. Then I would switch hands and try to de-pump before reaching for the screw lock and tightening the Anticam up. Then quickly grab back on, switch hands, de-pump and then finally clip the rope in before I could continue. You can get a hand jam every now and then but it is such a weird angle with your palms up and you elbows down and it wouldn't help a whole lot...

I'd give it about 5.12a


(This post was edited by mattmaddaloni on May 16, 2010, 11:43 PM)


fresh


May 17, 2010, 11:04 AM
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awesome job dude! way inspiring, both the climb and the design/implementation. I also saw your huge safety net a few years ago, it's great to see you didn't stop there Wink


mattmaddaloni


May 17, 2010, 6:47 PM
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ďWhenever you design something, it starts with a need,Ē says Bill Belcourt, BDís Climbing Hardgoods Category Director.

read this from an article on BD making carabiners...
I like it, so true.


TarHeelEMT


May 17, 2010, 11:14 PM
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mattmaddaloni wrote:
I don't care if anyone else thinks the Anticam is useless, a waste of time or whatever... I'm highly motivated to see it develop. If your interested too then let's put our heads together. Otherwise I'm sure there are lots of forums and threads about stuff that might interest you more and if your writing here than your wasting your time right?

For those with constructive criticism thanks for your input, it's really fun sharing this adventure with you.

now back to business... I have googled and probed every possible previous invention and material handling device out there. I even used several types as a steel fabricator in my younger years. The point is there just wasn't any device that had the expansion range, one hand operation or was light weight enough to actually carry on a climb and if a easy modification existed I would of jumped on it right away. Why? Because the goal was to climb that pitch free.

As an inventor of rigging equipment I've come to realize that the best ideas are the most simple. When a simple idea is shown it seems completely obvious and people are always amazed that it had not been thought of before. But that's the crazy part, simple, well designed systems are the most difficult to invent and this whole process can be really frustrating.

Version 2 solved some significant problems and allowed me to climb a difficult pitch without too much effort spent on placing the gear. Considering this is it's first year of development and it's not a paid gig I'd say progress is being made...

In my next message I am going to show the tech drawings for version 2. What would be great is if anyone had insight into how to get around the need for the bar.

cheers
mm

I don't have much to say other than "that's pretty cool."


dolphja


May 21, 2010, 11:26 AM
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necessity is the mother of invention Cool

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