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Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones?
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Partner cracklover


May 13, 2010, 12:52 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
pfwein wrote:
Watch the video of Sarah Watson--it's all ticked up (including the climb below the chains).

I watched the video, and I'd disagree on both counts. No, it's not "all ticked up" in that video, either on SR (the climb below the chains) or AS (above the chains).

SR has somewhat permanent ticks right below the chains, at the last hard fingers section. Next time I'm there, maybe I'll take them off. But I saw no sign of any ticks below that on SR in the video, nor would I expect that Sarah needed any - looked to me like she cruised the climb.

Above the chains, on AS, in the video I saw only one mark that might be a tick. It was out on the arete, but at the highpoint where Sarah got to. All the other marks were just normal chalk in the few holds on the climb. So no, also not "all ticked up."

GO

I'd like to amend the above to say that there are two clear ticks that look like they were put up by Sara on that video. They are the spots where she put in her last two pieces of gear. Beyond that, I saw at most one new-looking tick in the vid.

GO


Partner cracklover


May 13, 2010, 12:56 PM
Post #27 of 34 (1095 views)
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Re: [rock_ranger] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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rock_ranger wrote:
camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
camhead wrote:
And Jesus fucking Christ that climb is ticked to all hell right now...

Do you mean in the photo, or have you seen it like that firsthand recently?

GO

in the photo. I have not been to the Creek in the last couple years.

It was ticked to all hell this April when I did Swedin-Ringle.

I'll be out there in a couple weeks, and I promised a friend I'd hang a rope on SR. I'll report back what it looks like. I'll also plan to clean any ticks I see.

I've never used tick-marks. For those of you who do - how do you get them off sandstone? Will I need water, or can I just use a shirt/rag?

GO


rock_ranger


May 13, 2010, 1:01 PM
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caughtinside


May 13, 2010, 1:15 PM
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Re: [rock_ranger] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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I too, was too lazy to finish the Air Sweden. Sorry about that fellas.


lemon_boy


May 13, 2010, 1:46 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
pfwein wrote:
Watch the video of Sarah Watson--it's all ticked up (including the climb below the chains).

I watched the video, and I'd disagree on both counts. No, it's not "all ticked up" in that video, either on SR (the climb below the chains) or AS (above the chains).

SR has somewhat permanent ticks right below the chains, at the last hard fingers section. Next time I'm there, maybe I'll take them off. But I saw no sign of any ticks below that on SR in the video, nor would I expect that Sarah needed any - looked to me like she cruised the climb.

Above the chains, on AS, in the video I saw only one mark that might be a tick. It was out on the arete, but at the highpoint where Sarah got to. All the other marks were just normal chalk in the few holds on the climb. So no, also not "all ticked up."

GO

couple things, first, AS is completely ticked to shit in the video. you would have to be blind to disagree. second, she cruised it? i assume you are just talking about SW because it looks like she is getting as far as she was on TR when I belayed her all day on it.


Partner cracklover


May 13, 2010, 1:59 PM
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Re: [lemon_boy] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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lemon_boy wrote:
cracklover wrote:
pfwein wrote:
Watch the video of Sarah Watson--it's all ticked up (including the climb below the chains).

I watched the video, and I'd disagree on both counts. No, it's not "all ticked up" in that video, either on SR (the climb below the chains) or AS (above the chains).

SR has somewhat permanent ticks right below the chains, at the last hard fingers section. Next time I'm there, maybe I'll take them off. But I saw no sign of any ticks below that on SR in the video, nor would I expect that Sarah needed any - looked to me like she cruised the climb.

Above the chains, on AS, in the video I saw only one mark that might be a tick. It was out on the arete, but at the highpoint where Sarah got to. All the other marks were just normal chalk in the few holds on the climb. So no, also not "all ticked up."

GO

couple things, first, AS is completely ticked to shit in the video. you would have to be blind to disagree. second, she cruised it? i assume you are just talking about SW because it looks like she is getting as far as she was on TR when I belayed her all day on it.

Lemon_boy, yes I said she cruised SR. She skipped the face holds and rests. She shook out in the area where I find getting feet starts to be really hard. You disagree? Why? I don't know what this SW is that you're talking about.

As for AS (above the chains) being all ticked to hell in the video, I guess I must be blind like you said, cause I don't see it. I see one, maybe two at the most, tickmarks out on the arete.

GO


caughtinside


May 13, 2010, 2:06 PM
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Re: [lemon_boy] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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lemon_boy wrote:
cracklover wrote:
pfwein wrote:
Watch the video of Sarah Watson--it's all ticked up (including the climb below the chains).

I watched the video, and I'd disagree on both counts. No, it's not "all ticked up" in that video, either on SR (the climb below the chains) or AS (above the chains).

SR has somewhat permanent ticks right below the chains, at the last hard fingers section. Next time I'm there, maybe I'll take them off. But I saw no sign of any ticks below that on SR in the video, nor would I expect that Sarah needed any - looked to me like she cruised the climb.

Above the chains, on AS, in the video I saw only one mark that might be a tick. It was out on the arete, but at the highpoint where Sarah got to. All the other marks were just normal chalk in the few holds on the climb. So no, also not "all ticked up."

GO

couple things, first, AS is completely ticked to shit in the video. you would have to be blind to disagree. second, she cruised it? i assume you are just talking about SW because it looks like she is getting as far as she was on TR when I belayed her all day on it.

I don't know what you are talking about. I watched the vid, and she is clearly one move from sending that rig. I think if she skips the black alien its in the bag.


lemon_boy


May 13, 2010, 2:47 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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when you said she cruised "it", it sounded like you were referring to AS, as opposed to SW. I agree, she has SW dialed, but it is fairly easy and she has done it probably 200 times.

I watched the video also, and don't see her being 'just one move away" from sending AS. I spent (ie wasted) a day belaying her on it probably 4 years ago, and it doesn't seem like she is much closer. Just trying to be realistic. I watched a friend of mine, who is a very good climber, on it this spring and he blew it a ways above.

what about the ticks? it looks like its got more stripes than a zebra.

not trying to argue with you, just trying to portray things accurately.


chadnsc


May 14, 2010, 1:01 PM
Post #34 of 34 (948 views)
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Re: [pfwein] Air Sweden FFA - bizarre undertones? [In reply to]
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pfwein wrote:
I think for free ascents, the first free climber gets FFA, then the fist climber of the other gender gets FFFA or FFMA.
This can also be expanded to the LBGT community, etc.

But what if the FFA was done by a gay woman, then she'd have the FFA, FFFA and FFGLTFA. No other women would be able to claim any type FF on that particular route. Unsure

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