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one nut per biner
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milesenoell


May 22, 2010, 10:42 AM
Post #26 of 28 (556 views)
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Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156

Re: [acorneau] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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acorneau wrote:
jonathan.gaillard wrote:
How about taking nuts and putting a quicklink on the wire, with a flexible dogbone and biner, making them similiar to racked cams (that have their own biners).

I know every one else has beaten you up about everything else in your post, but I've got to respond to this part (for some reason?!?).

Peguet, the maker of Mallion Rapide-brand quicklinks, makes a Zink/aluminum alloy quicklink (they call "Zicral") in two sizes. 7mm, which has a breaking load of ~12kN and weighs a scant 18 grams (less than a CAMP Nano!); and a 10mm which has a BL of ~24kN at almost 49 grams (about the weight of a bigger non-locker).

Most nuts have a strength rating of 10-12kN and most placements in rock will only hold ~10kN max anyway, so let's go for the 7mm quicklinks.

14 quicklinks (for 14 nuts) with 7mm quicklinks = 8.8 oz.
14 Nano biners (@23 grams each) = 11.3 oz.

Two and a half ounces saved. I say go for it!




Laugh

...only when compared to racking each nut on its own biner.


bergbryce


Jul 13, 2010, 6:02 PM
Post #27 of 28 (429 views)
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Registered: Apr 27, 2006
Posts: 37

Re: [jonathan.gaillard] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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jonathan.gaillard wrote:

Does that sound reasonable for quick climbing and with minimal motions and not to heavy?

no


johnwesely


Jul 13, 2010, 7:02 PM
Post #28 of 28 (412 views)
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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5343

Re: [bergbryce] one nut per biner [In reply to]
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bergbryce wrote:
jonathan.gaillard wrote:

Does that sound reasonable for quick climbing and with minimal motions and not to heavy?

no

You are a little late to the party my friend.
That being said, I saw someone at the Gunks actually doing that.

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