Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


edge


May 26, 2010, 8:33 AM
Post #1 of 97 (5096 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So, I have climbed a few areas over a few years, but am curious.

What do you consider the best single crag for these grades?

Please don't answer with an area like "Yosemite," unless you want to be more specific and say "the Cookie." Then you will be wrong, in my opinion, but I would still want to hear from you.


brokesomeribs


May 26, 2010, 8:55 AM
Post #2 of 97 (5073 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 20, 2009
Posts: 361

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hmmm... RRG, methinks.


shrug7


May 26, 2010, 9:01 AM
Post #3 of 97 (5057 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 18, 2006
Posts: 866

Re: [brokesomeribs] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

brokesomeribs wrote:
Hmmm... RRG, methinks.
That's a big f-ing crag.

but the few good trad areas in the Red I think are.
Fortress, Indian Creek and Long wall.


outside the Red:
Drapers bluff in Soill before it closed has/had some great classic 10s /11s.

And Devils Tower has a crap ton, all in one area.


(This post was edited by shrug7 on May 26, 2010, 9:02 AM)


lithophiliac


May 26, 2010, 9:02 AM
Post #4 of 97 (5056 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 9, 2005
Posts: 20

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Lower Town Wall at Index, Washington fits the bill for all three!!


yevquest


May 26, 2010, 9:03 AM
Post #5 of 97 (5052 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 13, 2002
Posts: 71

Re: [lithophiliac] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

T-wall has a pretty nice spread of gear routes at 10-12.


edge


May 26, 2010, 9:05 AM
Post #6 of 97 (5048 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [brokesomeribs] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

brokesomeribs wrote:
Hmmm... RRG, methinks.

This is in the trad forum.

As much as I like pulling on pockets, and pockets, and more pockets, I wouldn't even place the Red in the top 5 for sp0rt areas. Seriously, I prefer diversity.


(This post was edited by edge on May 26, 2010, 9:06 AM)


caughtinside


May 26, 2010, 9:06 AM
Post #7 of 97 (5045 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hard to say without any more criteria. There are walls at the Red and at Indian Creek which could both be contenders, but it comes down to personal taste.

For 5.11 cracks, I'd be tempted to say Cat Wall at the Creek. 5.10, maybe Arch Rock in the Valley?


boymeetsrock


May 26, 2010, 9:13 AM
Post #8 of 97 (5033 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Spider Wall Adirondacks. NTICT


edge


May 26, 2010, 9:18 AM
Post #9 of 97 (5021 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

For 10 minute approaches, unlimited possibilities, dare I throw out Cathedral Ledge in NH?

Hell, I guess Whitehorse now fits the bill as well, and then you have face, cracks, friction, everything.


(This post was edited by edge on May 26, 2010, 9:20 AM)


gmggg


May 26, 2010, 9:35 AM
Post #10 of 97 (5004 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
For 10 minute approaches, unlimited possibilities, dare I throw out Cathedral Ledge in NH?

Hell, I guess Whitehorse now fits the bill as well, and then you have face, cracks, friction, everything.

This was going to be my vote, specifically the barber wall for the 10's and 12's.

And you can't ignore Josh, take your pick on a specific crag.

Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.


chadnsc


May 26, 2010, 9:40 AM
Post #11 of 97 (4998 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue


ryanb


May 26, 2010, 10:03 AM
Post #12 of 97 (4969 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2004
Posts: 832

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In terms of concentration and quality I think that the lower town wall at index is the best single crag for 5.11s i've been to. Not so much for any other grade though.


irregularpanda


May 26, 2010, 10:32 AM
Post #13 of 97 (4902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364

Re: [ryanb] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ryanb wrote:
In terms of concentration and quality I think that the lower town wall at index is the best single crag for 5.11s i've been to. Not so much for any other grade though.

Well, except that 5.11+ in index is at least .12b anywhere else in the nation.

But other than that I would agree, 5.10 is kinda few and far between there.


Partner camhead


May 26, 2010, 10:32 AM
Post #14 of 97 (4902 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20798

Re: [ryanb] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'll second T-Wall, since it's technically one "crag."

a few more, as far as classic, 5.10-5.12 trad lines. Emphasis on diversity and concentration.

-Fern Buttress or Bridge Buttress, New River Gorge, WV
-Paradise Forks, AZ
-Way Rambo, Indian Creek, UT
-Lost City, Gunks, NY
-Penny Lane, Squamish, BC
-Morning Glory Spire, City of Rocks, ID


edge


May 26, 2010, 10:48 AM
Post #15 of 97 (4883 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [chadnsc] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

chadnsc wrote:
I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue

DT is awesome, but little variety.


EvilMonkey


May 26, 2010, 11:28 AM
Post #16 of 97 (4850 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 19, 2008
Posts: 195

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Trollhouse Wall.


Partner cracklover


May 26, 2010, 11:32 AM
Post #17 of 97 (4846 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
So, I have climbed a few areas over a few years, but am curious.

What do you consider the best single crag for these grades?

Please don't answer with an area like "Yosemite," unless you want to be more specific and say "the Cookie." Then you will be wrong, in my opinion, but I would still want to hear from you.

For 5.10, I'd have to say the Trapps in the Gunks.

For 5.11, I'd say it's got to be at Indian Creek, but personal preference would dictate among a few of the crags.

For 5.12, I have absolutely no idea.

GO


bandycoot


May 26, 2010, 11:58 AM
Post #18 of 97 (4818 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Needles


Partner cracklover


May 26, 2010, 11:58 AM
Post #19 of 97 (4816 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you're looking for variety, forget about my suggestion at IC. In fact, if that's the case, you can forget about the Trapps, too.

In fact, most really top-notch destination crags are superb in part because they're so superlative, so pure, in some particular way.

GO


edge


May 26, 2010, 12:10 PM
Post #20 of 97 (4804 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [bandycoot] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.


BirminghamBen


May 26, 2010, 12:12 PM
Post #21 of 97 (4799 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 23, 2009
Posts: 65

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The Tennessee Wall...variety and many routes in the 10 and 11 range, amongst other grades.

Hawksbill at Linville Gorge in NC has a high concentration of 11s and 12s with much variety...but I've never been there.

Indian Creek is up there for 11s in my book.

Don't know about the 12s...yet.


bandycoot


May 26, 2010, 12:17 PM
Post #22 of 97 (4791 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....


chadnsc


May 26, 2010, 12:33 PM
Post #23 of 97 (4753 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 24, 2003
Posts: 4449

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue

DT is awesome, but little variety.

What! It's got thin cracks and loads of steming! How much more variety do you need. Wink


edge


May 26, 2010, 12:33 PM
Post #24 of 97 (4752 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [bandycoot] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?


Partner camhead


May 26, 2010, 12:45 PM
Post #25 of 97 (4737 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20798

Re: [bandycoot] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

No shit. The Needles are the #1 crag on my list to get to. Too bad they're so far away.


caughtinside


May 26, 2010, 12:45 PM
Post #26 of 97 (2389 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

The needles taken as a whole really are not that big. But hell, just that one with atlantis and those other lines might cut the mustard on it's own. I always get the formation names mixed up there though...


caughtinside


May 26, 2010, 12:46 PM
Post #27 of 97 (2388 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

PTFTW is stacked with 10 11 and 12.


boadman


May 26, 2010, 12:54 PM
Post #28 of 97 (2383 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 726

Re: [lithophiliac] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

lithophiliac wrote:
The Lower Town Wall at Index, Washington fits the bill for all three!!

Ditto. It has to be the best single crag in the world for slabby/traddy climbing.


jrathfon


May 26, 2010, 12:55 PM
Post #29 of 97 (2381 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 494

Re: [gmggg] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!


captainstatic


May 26, 2010, 1:13 PM
Post #30 of 97 (2361 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 201

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Edge, IMO you have not spent enough time in RRG if you think it is all pulling pockets. "Indian Creek Crag" in RRG has 17 traditional routes in the 5.10 to 5.12 range. From the .10a Jim's Dihedral to the .12c Better Red than Dead. For variety these climbs include splitters. dihedrals, roof cracks and offwidth.


csproul


May 26, 2010, 1:15 PM
Post #31 of 97 (2359 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1768

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?
Wait...are y'all talking about SD or CA?


bandycoot


May 26, 2010, 1:34 PM
Post #32 of 97 (2347 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

Even if they don't, as soon as I see the word "best" in reference to a climbing area I twitch compusively and MUST reply "Needles". Plus they're pretty.........

Josh


kennoyce


May 26, 2010, 1:44 PM
Post #33 of 97 (2343 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1320

Re: [camhead] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

camhead wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

No shit. The Needles are the #1 crag on my list to get to. Too bad they're so far away.


Seriously, the needles have been at the top of my list for years, thankfully I'll be moving to socal next month and can finally check them out.


desertwanderer81


May 26, 2010, 4:47 PM
Post #34 of 97 (2304 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's a little easy for the grade, but I would say hands down the best 10's trad area is Black Velvet Canyon.


cclarke


May 26, 2010, 6:26 PM
Post #35 of 97 (2284 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 25, 2003
Posts: 160

Re: [desertwanderer81] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Cookie and Spider's Web for density of mega-classics.

I rule out all sport crags for this discussion.

If you go to bigger walls or more loosely defined crags, it gets more confusing to say what is best.

Needles has got to get a mention. Gunks, Seneca East Face, Squamish, Looking Glass, the New (twenty miles of climbing?), Index, Indian Creek, Eldo, Mt. Lemmon. Where do you draw the line?


currupt4130


May 26, 2010, 7:05 PM
Post #36 of 97 (2271 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 515

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Did I miss New River Gorge yet? If not, it's my vote. Tons and tons of classics from 5.10-5.12 single pitch trad routes qualify for classic.


wallwombat


May 26, 2010, 7:38 PM
Post #37 of 97 (2261 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 16, 2003
Posts: 727

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Arapiles.


jh_angel


May 26, 2010, 9:06 PM
Post #38 of 97 (2236 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 11, 2004
Posts: 232

Re: [jrathfon] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh


bennydh


May 26, 2010, 11:39 PM
Post #39 of 97 (2220 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 1, 2005
Posts: 368

Re: [bandycoot] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

YES

The Needles are awesome. You couldn't ask for better rock quality either.

It also has a natural noob filter, as routes there don't start at an introductory level, there isn't much bolt clipping to be found, its isolated, and requires an approach


edge


May 27, 2010, 5:45 AM
Post #40 of 97 (2200 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [bennydh] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bennydh wrote:
edge wrote:

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

YES

The Needles are awesome. You couldn't ask for better rock quality either.

It also has a natural noob filter, as routes there don't start at an introductory level, there isn't much bolt clipping to be found, its isolated, and requires an approach

My bad, I was thinking SD and you obviously mean CA.

Both are awesome, but you can see where my point stands referring to South Dak, and I can definitely see your point referring to Cali.


mr.tastycakes


May 27, 2010, 6:34 AM
Post #41 of 97 (2185 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 10, 2008
Posts: 310

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

2 cents from a not-very-well-traveled climber:

Spider's Web in Chapel Pond Pass, Adirondacks fits the bill, but IMO it's a little smallish to call it "the best" (only about 30 routes, IIRC, I don't have the guide out). The concentration of quality lines is outstanding though. I've still got gobbies all over my hands from a trip 2 weeks ago.

Lost City in the Gunks is great for the grade range you listed. The Trapps kick ass for 5.10 and some 5.11, but there isn't a great concentration of 5.12 and up lines (not that it matters to me, I don't climb that hard).


jrathfon


May 27, 2010, 7:00 AM
Post #42 of 97 (2177 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 494

Re: [jh_angel] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.


edge


May 27, 2010, 7:14 AM
Post #43 of 97 (2170 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [jrathfon] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.


snodawg


May 27, 2010, 8:31 AM
Post #44 of 97 (2150 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 35

Re: [lithophiliac] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I have to agree with Lower Town Wall @ Index. Peace


rangerrob


May 27, 2010, 9:10 AM
Post #45 of 97 (2137 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 7, 2003
Posts: 641

Re: [snodawg] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:18 AM
Post #46 of 97 (2132 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [desertwanderer81] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

desertwanderer81 wrote:
It's a little easy for the grade, but I would say hands down the best 10's trad area is Black Velvet Canyon.

With such routes as Triassic Sands, Dream of Wild Turkeys, Fiddler on the Roof, and Sour Mash, it would certainly make my top 10.

But when the Trapps has Amber Waves of Pain, Balrog, BBB, Birdie Party, Cheap Thrills, Coex, Doubleissima, Erect Direction, Falled on Account of Strain, Graveyard Shift, Matinee, Mothers Day Party, Neverneverland, Nosedive, Retribution, Simple Suff, Feast of Fools, Try Again, and many many more...

I dunno, unless you disqualify it for being too short a cliff, I think it definitely beats BV Canyon easily for 5.10 climbs.

GO


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:20 AM
Post #47 of 97 (2128 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

D'oh! Looks like RR and I were posting at the same time.

GO


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:27 AM
Post #48 of 97 (2123 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [jrathfon] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

CH does have some real quality climbing - don't sell it short. But no, it's not even a NE destination crag, not to mention an international destination. It's kind of in the same class as Precipice Cliffs, in Acadia. Except that Precipice is 10 times better.

I'd put CH squarely in the top 5 Mass crags. But then we all know that's not saying much.

GO


jrathfon


May 27, 2010, 9:30 AM
Post #49 of 97 (2114 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 5, 2006
Posts: 494

Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

CH does have some real quality climbing - don't sell it short. But no, it's not even a NE destination crag, not to mention an international destination. It's kind of in the same class as Precipice Cliffs, in Acadia. Except that Precipice is 10 times better.

I'd put CH squarely in the top 5 Mass crags. But then we all know that's not saying much.

GO

haha, i think i'd put 3 crags on my top 5 mass crags...

from my limited experience, i'd throw cathedral, black velvet wall, and the trapps down for best 5.10 crags, that's right i voted 3 times.


desertwanderer81


May 27, 2010, 9:31 AM
Post #50 of 97 (2110 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272

Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Don't get me wrong, the Gunks was my first crag home, but BVC..... it's just the place to be for 10's in my book :) Gotta love the sandstone :D

Then again, 10's BVC aren't exactly the same thing as Gunks 10's......


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:32 AM
Post #51 of 97 (2507 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:32 AM
Post #52 of 97 (2505 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 9:33 AM
Post #53 of 97 (2503 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:

I'd put CH squarely in the top 5 Mass crags. But then we all know that's not saying much.

GO


There are five crags in MA? Tongue


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 9:35 AM
Post #54 of 97 (2499 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.


redlude97


May 27, 2010, 9:35 AM
Post #55 of 97 (2498 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990

Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR
I would hardly call an area that spans 227 miles(width) a single crag Wink


jh_angel


May 27, 2010, 9:42 AM
Post #56 of 97 (2488 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 11, 2004
Posts: 232

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

I started out by saying it didn't belong in the conversation. 9 time out of 10 I'd just keep driving to Farley. I'm arguing with the assessment that it's choss. I have yet to do a climb there that I wouldn't happily do again. Also, any loose rock there is on the top on the cliff, not on the climbs, and the rock quality is quite good. I fully plan on making a stop there to do Cro-magnon during my 2 week vacation back home.

-Josh


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:46 AM
Post #57 of 97 (2487 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO


Partner camhead


May 27, 2010, 9:47 AM
Post #58 of 97 (2484 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20798

Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:48 AM
Post #59 of 97 (2484 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [jh_angel] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

jh_angel wrote:
edge wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

I started out by saying it didn't belong in the conversation. 9 time out of 10 I'd just keep driving to Farley. I'm arguing with the assessment that it's choss. I have yet to do a climb there that I wouldn't happily do again. Also, any loose rock there is on the top on the cliff, not on the climbs, and the rock quality is quite good. I fully plan on making a stop there to do Cro-magnon during my 2 week vacation back home.

-Josh

Plus it's gritstone. How cool is that - getting to climb hard grit without having to go to that cold wet land across the... um, oh yeah, New England is pretty cold and wet too - nevermind!

GTongue


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:57 AM
Post #60 of 97 (2470 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.

Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines.


ryanb


May 27, 2010, 9:58 AM
Post #61 of 97 (2468 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2004
Posts: 832

Re: [cclarke] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cclarke wrote:
Cookie and Spider's Web for density of mega-classics.

I rule out all sport crags for this discussion.

If you go to bigger walls or more loosely defined crags, it gets more confusing to say what is best.

Needles has got to get a mention. Gunks, Seneca East Face, Squamish, Looking Glass, the New (twenty miles of climbing?), Index, Indian Creek, Eldo, Mt. Lemmon. Where do you draw the line?
I agree that we should focus on single crags with a high density of classic routes.

I think the Lower Wall at Index (a specific, fairly compact, easily accessible crag) beats most other crags of any size in terms of density of 5.11 pitches.

Here are a couple of topos covering about 1/6th of the wall area each:

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/ltwcl.gif
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/ltwl.gif

From [url="http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/"]Clint Cummin's 1993 guide. These are a bit out of date; a bit more goes free in the 5.11 range these days. They should give some idea of the density of thin crack/flake/flare systems on the face but its hard to describe the prevalence of small, solid, edges and knobs that make it such a classic area...

Incidentally this is also the crag that the Washington Climbers Coalition (with help from the Access Fund and others) is raising money to purchase if any of you feel like being generous.

Check out the fund raising shirts:



Also this thread needs more pics. Here is a buddy on a lower wall 11 mixed (gear+bolts+runouts) route "Natural Log Cabin:"




caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:59 AM
Post #62 of 97 (2467 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [camhead] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!

Rangerrob heard about your heinous sport climbing, gear in-situ tactics, consulted the huddled 5.5 ethically pure masses, and it was decided to confiscate your gear and revoke your gunks daypass. The gunks is Trad, bitch!!


edge


May 27, 2010, 9:59 AM
Post #63 of 97 (2465 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [camhead] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I really, really like the Gunks, but prefer the variety of a crag like Cathedral, where you can face climb, crack climb, slab climb, corner climb, layback, etc.

And it fit's all three grade requests admirably.


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 10:09 AM
Post #64 of 97 (2455 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
I really, really like the Gunks, but prefer the variety of a crag like Cathedral, where you can face climb, crack climb, slab climb, corner climb, layback, etc.

And it fit's all three grade requests admirably.

Ah, if you're looking for variety, and also for a crag that fits all three grades, forget about my suggestions. I have no idea.

GO


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 10:12 AM
Post #65 of 97 (2453 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10061

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!

Rangerrob heard about your heinous sport climbing, gear in-situ tactics, consulted the huddled 5.5 ethically pure masses, and it was decided to confiscate your gear and revoke your gunks daypass. The gunks is Trad, bitch!!

^^^ CI deflects the subject from his rage-shitz filled pants.

GO


swoopee


May 27, 2010, 10:23 AM
Post #66 of 97 (2444 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Excuse me but the 5.5 crowd is what makes any crag cool.


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 10:34 AM
Post #67 of 97 (2437 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [swoopee] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

swoopee wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Excuse me but the 5.5 crowd is what makes any crag cool.

Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.

But keep telling yourself that climbing at a beginner level is cool. I enjoy power walking once in a while, and going on short nature hikes.


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 10:35 AM
Post #68 of 97 (2434 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!

Rangerrob heard about your heinous sport climbing, gear in-situ tactics, consulted the huddled 5.5 ethically pure masses, and it was decided to confiscate your gear and revoke your gunks daypass. The gunks is Trad, bitch!!

^^^ CI deflects the subject from his rage-shitz filled pants.

GO
Mad


swoopee


May 27, 2010, 10:41 AM
Post #69 of 97 (2422 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Your profile says you lead 5.1. Just saying. Wink


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 11:09 AM
Post #70 of 97 (2407 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [swoopee] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

swoopee wrote:
Your profile says you lead 5.1. Just saying. Wink

I should update that to 5.1d.


gmggg


May 27, 2010, 11:16 AM
Post #71 of 97 (2402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

I'll take the blame. I thought you were explicitly ruling out the larger destination areas.


rangerrob


May 27, 2010, 12:41 PM
Post #72 of 97 (2374 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 7, 2003
Posts: 641

Re: [gmggg] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Camhead, are we bonding?


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 12:43 PM
Post #73 of 97 (2373 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.

Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines.

I'll cut you.


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on May 27, 2010, 12:43 PM)


rangerrob


May 27, 2010, 12:44 PM
Post #74 of 97 (2371 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 7, 2003
Posts: 641

Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that. we can eliminate at least one based on approach...so goodbye BVC. I've never been top Index, so I don't know what the approach is, but it is hard to beat the Trapps for lazy climbing.


ryanb


May 27, 2010, 1:17 PM
Post #75 of 97 (2358 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 4, 2004
Posts: 832

Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rangerrob wrote:
Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that. we can eliminate at least one based on approach...so goodbye BVC. I've never been top Index, so I don't know what the approach is, but it is hard to beat the Trapps for lazy climbing.

Lower wall approach is under 5 minutes. 10 if you have to wait for a train to pass.

People from the east often describe it as a steeper version of cathedral, though i've never climbed there and can't confirm this.

It does have a few downsides that may let another crag seize the crown... weather, meth-heads, moss, the fact it is on private property and lack of decent camping for road trippers, lack of easy climbs and noise from passing trains are the big ones but hopefully some of those will change with the purchase effort. there are something like 40 5.11 pitches on the lower wall, mix of gear, fixed pins and bolted slab/face and most of them pretty darn fun.

Don't believe me? i'll gladly show any one who donates to the purchase effort around ;)


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 1:57 PM
Post #76 of 97 (1965 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.

Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines.

I'll cut you.

Nice try. If you weren't so weke I might be concerned.


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 2:02 PM
Post #77 of 97 (1957 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Missed another one.


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 2:05 PM
Post #78 of 97 (1952 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709

Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Black Canyon, North Chasm View Wall


Note sure it counts as a 'crag' though.


cchas


May 27, 2010, 7:12 PM
Post #79 of 97 (1920 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Camhead,

If you thought Paradise Forks was pretty good, you should check out the Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon (and if you haven't been there in the last couple of years, especially last year, you haven't been there). Terminator at the Waterfall makes Paradise Forks looks like a choss pile. Hell, after climbing at the cookie Cliff for nearly 10 yrs, I'd say the Waterfall makes the Cookie Cliff in Yosemite look like a second rate cliff.

For me

1) Grand Wall/University Wall area in Squamish
2) Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek
3) Cat Wall in Indian Creek
4) Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon (Arizona)
5) thinking about #5..... the Trapps is pretty good (climbed there for more then a decade) but the 5.10's and 5.11's are so dilute stacked betweenm the 5.0's to 5.9's that I don't qualify it, whereas at Paradise Forks, Indian Creek, Waterfall, to go from one 5.10-5.13 to another you just move your rope 10ft to the right or left for another 5 star routre.

And camhead, next time you are in Az drop me a line and I can show you some stuff that makes a lot of the stuff at the Creek look OK.


(This post was edited by cchas on May 27, 2010, 7:14 PM)


justroberto


May 28, 2010, 9:03 AM
Post #80 of 97 (1887 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.


edge


May 28, 2010, 9:11 AM
Post #81 of 97 (1886 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [justroberto] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+.

My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8.

Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...


hafilax


May 28, 2010, 9:12 AM
Post #82 of 97 (1885 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 11, 2007
Posts: 3025

Re: [cchas] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was going to suggest the Grand Wall area as well. The first pitch of a lot of the multipitch classics are terrific. I wasn't sure that the density of climbs was up to snuff.


cchas


May 28, 2010, 10:22 AM
Post #83 of 97 (1864 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+.

My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8.

Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...

and I always laugh at posts like this. When I moved from the East I was climbing 5.10's and a few .11's at the Gunks and had just spent 2 yrs doing R/X rated climbs there and climbed extensively on the East Coast.

When I moved to San Francisco I spent my first year getting my #ss handed to me on Yosemite and Tuolumne 5.9's.


edge


May 28, 2010, 10:55 AM
Post #84 of 97 (1853 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [cchas] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cchas wrote:
edge wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+.

My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8.

Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...

and I always laugh at posts like this. When I moved from the East I was climbing 5.10's and a few .11's at the Gunks and had just spent 2 yrs doing R/X rated climbs there and climbed extensively on the East Coast.

When I moved to San Francisco I spent my first year getting my #ss handed to me on Yosemite and Tuolumne 5.9's.

Fair enough, it seems like a style issue?

The Gunks are a totally different beast than anything I know in NH. I got spanked the first time I went to the Trapps, but really they were a great stepping stone.

I still stand by my assertion that if you can climb .9+ on Cathedral and have experience on the slabs of Whitehorse, then nothing of the same grade in Yosemite or Tuolumne can compare.

Again, my opinion. This was my observation and I respect differences of opinion.

Cheers.


swoopee


May 28, 2010, 11:39 AM
Post #85 of 97 (1831 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 560

Re: [justroberto] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Ouch. Smile


caughtinside


May 28, 2010, 1:06 PM
Post #86 of 97 (1814 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30469

Re: [swoopee] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

swoopee wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Ouch. Smile

Not really. A guy who lives in texas calling west coast 5.8s 5.5s isn't really saying much. I've been to texas and seen their 'climbing.' Not impressed.


kachoong


May 28, 2010, 1:17 PM
Post #87 of 97 (1802 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 15304

Re: [wallwombat] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

wallwombat wrote:
Arapiles.

Ding Ding!!!!


edge


May 28, 2010, 1:21 PM
Post #88 of 97 (1796 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9118

Re: [kachoong] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kachoong wrote:
wallwombat wrote:
Arapiles.

Ding Ding!!!!

Not fair...


justroberto


May 28, 2010, 4:28 PM
Post #89 of 97 (1768 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

caughtinside wrote:
swoopee wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Ouch. Smile

Not really. A guy who lives in texas calling west coast 5.8s 5.5s isn't really saying much. I've been to texas and seen their 'climbing.' Not impressed.
Texas isn't my reference point. Austin grading is even softer than the desert, but that's beside the point...


Partner camhead


May 30, 2010, 8:34 PM
Post #90 of 97 (1702 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20798

Re: [cchas] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cchas wrote:
And camhead, next time you are in Az drop me a line and I can show you some stuff that makes a lot of the stuff at the Creek look OK.

Thanks for the offer! I really need to get back out west, and all the photos of the Waterfall, Winslow, and other NoAZ areas are really piquing my interest. Hope I remember how to crack climb, though. There are too many damned face holds out East.


curt


May 30, 2010, 10:33 PM
Post #91 of 97 (1691 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18234

Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
edge wrote:
So, I have climbed a few areas over a few years, but am curious.

What do you consider the best single crag for these grades?

Please don't answer with an area like "Yosemite," unless you want to be more specific and say "the Cookie." Then you will be wrong, in my opinion, but I would still want to hear from you.

For 5.10, I'd have to say the Trapps in the Gunks...

I'll second that, unless of course, I'm GU'd.

Curt


guangzhou


May 30, 2010, 11:18 PM
Post #92 of 97 (1682 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 26, 2004
Posts: 3389

Re: [curt] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

When I read questions like this, I thank my lucky stars that I am not and never have been limited to a single crag or climbing area. Some of my favorite have already been mentioned.

I am currently shopping for the perfect house location. A place where I can retire and climb year-round. Chattanooga area looks like it will be the best place. Climbing, cost of living, and friendly people.

In no particular order:

I lived in TN a few years, the states best climbing is at T-wall, but Whiteside and the North Side of Looking Glass were really good too. (T-wall is to hot in summer)

I had a condo near North Conway, Cathedral kept me busy for a couple of summer. I never got bored there, but the winter is cold at best.

I live in Yosemite for a year after High school. You can climb year-round but the place closes in on you after a while.

I almost bought a house near Paradise Forks a couple years ago. A small climbing area that has excellent single pitch climbing. I think it would get boring to climb there exclusively.

I like the Needles, but I would die at a much younger age if I lived there. Run outs are long, and winter is even longer.

Colorado has Lumpy Ridge, spectacular climbing with a reasonable winter, but the climbing season for pure rock is still pretty short.

I plan on spending most of this summer climbing Lovers' Leap in Tahoe. I'll be house shopping too. I like the leap, a nice mix of routes. But winter is to cold to climb.

In short, they is no perfect place to climb exclusively year-round. Guess I am lucky, I climb overseas around Asia, New Zealand, and Australia during the the American Winter and spend summer climbing in the USA or Europe. The variety of areas keeps me from getting bored, sort of like sport and climbing trad climbing keeping me from getting burned out.

E


curt


May 30, 2010, 11:50 PM
Post #93 of 97 (1675 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18234

Re: [bandycoot] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

Even if they don't, as soon as I see the word "best" in reference to a climbing area I twitch compusively and MUST reply "Needles". Plus they're pretty.........

Josh

You guys should stop confusing the real Needles with that other place in California. Cool

Curt


healyje


May 31, 2010, 12:15 AM
Post #94 of 97 (1665 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2004
Posts: 4199

Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

rangerrob wrote:
Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that.

Wow, love those minus LTW which I haven't been, but if it came down to it I'd probably spend my time on Eldorado's Bastille and Redgarden Wall first.

P.S. Marco Fedrizzi on 'The Wizard', our Crow Hill FA from the two years in the mid-80s I lived in NH.




(This post was edited by healyje on May 31, 2010, 2:12 AM)


granite_grrl


May 31, 2010, 6:54 AM
Post #95 of 97 (1634 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14903

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

edge wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue

DT is awesome, but little variety.
I love the Tower, but it might be more to do with the atmosphere than the actual climbing (though the variety isn't bad, better than places like Indian Creek and maybe other crack climbing meccas).

Otherwise I would consider a wall the NRG, which I think really picks up in the 5.10 range. I'm not that familiar with the New though, so I can't narrow it down to one wall.


kappydane


May 31, 2010, 6:58 AM
Post #96 of 97 (1632 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 22, 2004
Posts: 119

Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I consider cragging to be quick access with a lot of routes close together. So I propose Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. Probably the most routes available in the smallest physical area. You can walk from one side of the ranch to the other in about 30 minutes while most approaches to single areas only takes about 10 or 15 minutes.
34 5.7
34 5.8
46 5.9
69 5.10
47 5.11
40 5.12


Partner camhead


May 31, 2010, 7:03 AM
Post #97 of 97 (1627 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20798

Re: [kappydane] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kappydane wrote:
I consider cragging to be quick access with a lot of routes close together. So I propose Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. Probably the most routes available in the smallest physical area. You can walk from one side of the ranch to the other in about 30 minutes while most approaches to single areas only takes about 10 or 15 minutes.
34 5.7
34 5.8
46 5.9
69 5.10
47 5.11
40 5.12

The original poster was looking specifically for trad climbs. Your list for HCR, which granted is an awesome place, would really be a LOT smaller if you were to narrow it down just to trad climbs.


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook