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caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:32 AM
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Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:32 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 9:33 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:

I'd put CH squarely in the top 5 Mass crags. But then we all know that's not saying much.

GO


There are five crags in MA? Tongue


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 9:35 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.


redlude97


May 27, 2010, 9:35 AM
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Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR
I would hardly call an area that spans 227 miles(width) a single crag Wink


jh_angel


May 27, 2010, 9:42 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

I started out by saying it didn't belong in the conversation. 9 time out of 10 I'd just keep driving to Farley. I'm arguing with the assessment that it's choss. I have yet to do a climb there that I wouldn't happily do again. Also, any loose rock there is on the top on the cliff, not on the climbs, and the rock quality is quite good. I fully plan on making a stop there to do Cro-magnon during my 2 week vacation back home.

-Josh


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 9:46 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO


camhead


May 27, 2010, 9:47 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!


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May 27, 2010, 9:48 AM
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Re: [jh_angel] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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jh_angel wrote:
edge wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

I started out by saying it didn't belong in the conversation. 9 time out of 10 I'd just keep driving to Farley. I'm arguing with the assessment that it's choss. I have yet to do a climb there that I wouldn't happily do again. Also, any loose rock there is on the top on the cliff, not on the climbs, and the rock quality is quite good. I fully plan on making a stop there to do Cro-magnon during my 2 week vacation back home.

-Josh

Plus it's gritstone. How cool is that - getting to climb hard grit without having to go to that cold wet land across the... um, oh yeah, New England is pretty cold and wet too - nevermind!

GTongue


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:57 AM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.

Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines.


ryanb


May 27, 2010, 9:58 AM
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Re: [cclarke] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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cclarke wrote:
Cookie and Spider's Web for density of mega-classics.

I rule out all sport crags for this discussion.

If you go to bigger walls or more loosely defined crags, it gets more confusing to say what is best.

Needles has got to get a mention. Gunks, Seneca East Face, Squamish, Looking Glass, the New (twenty miles of climbing?), Index, Indian Creek, Eldo, Mt. Lemmon. Where do you draw the line?
I agree that we should focus on single crags with a high density of classic routes.

I think the Lower Wall at Index (a specific, fairly compact, easily accessible crag) beats most other crags of any size in terms of density of 5.11 pitches.

Here are a couple of topos covering about 1/6th of the wall area each:

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/ltwcl.gif
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/ltwl.gif

From [url="http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/"]Clint Cummin's 1993 guide. These are a bit out of date; a bit more goes free in the 5.11 range these days. They should give some idea of the density of thin crack/flake/flare systems on the face but its hard to describe the prevalence of small, solid, edges and knobs that make it such a classic area...

Incidentally this is also the crag that the Washington Climbers Coalition (with help from the Access Fund and others) is raising money to purchase if any of you feel like being generous.

Check out the fund raising shirts:



Also this thread needs more pics. Here is a buddy on a lower wall 11 mixed (gear+bolts+runouts) route "Natural Log Cabin:"




caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 9:59 AM
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Re: [camhead] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!

Rangerrob heard about your heinous sport climbing, gear in-situ tactics, consulted the huddled 5.5 ethically pure masses, and it was decided to confiscate your gear and revoke your gunks daypass. The gunks is Trad, bitch!!


edge


May 27, 2010, 9:59 AM
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Re: [camhead] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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I really, really like the Gunks, but prefer the variety of a crag like Cathedral, where you can face climb, crack climb, slab climb, corner climb, layback, etc.

And it fit's all three grade requests admirably.


Partner cracklover


May 27, 2010, 10:09 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
I really, really like the Gunks, but prefer the variety of a crag like Cathedral, where you can face climb, crack climb, slab climb, corner climb, layback, etc.

And it fit's all three grade requests admirably.

Ah, if you're looking for variety, and also for a crag that fits all three grades, forget about my suggestions. I have no idea.

GO


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May 27, 2010, 10:12 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!

Rangerrob heard about your heinous sport climbing, gear in-situ tactics, consulted the huddled 5.5 ethically pure masses, and it was decided to confiscate your gear and revoke your gunks daypass. The gunks is Trad, bitch!!

^^^ CI deflects the subject from his rage-shitz filled pants.

GO


swoopee


May 27, 2010, 10:23 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Excuse me but the 5.5 crowd is what makes any crag cool.


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 10:34 AM
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swoopee wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Excuse me but the 5.5 crowd is what makes any crag cool.

Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.

But keep telling yourself that climbing at a beginner level is cool. I enjoy power walking once in a while, and going on short nature hikes.


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 10:35 AM
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cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
camhead wrote:
cracklover wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
5.10 is THE grade at the Trapps in the Gunks. It's mind boggling how many amazing pitches of 5.10 climbing there is there. Shit, the Mac wall alone has 14 pitches of excellent 5.10a-d. That's only about 120 feet of cliff, (width). That's about .01 percet of the Trapps. Other 5.10 classics include Simple Suff, 10,000, Falled, erect Direction, Doubleissima, Lakatissima, Obstacle Delusion, Feast of Fools, Nurses Aid, Wegetables, Nosedive, retribution, Matinee, P-38, Stirrup Trouble, Welcome to the Gunks, Balrog, Never neverland, Cheap Thrills, Amber waves of Pain, April Showers, Frustration Syndrome, Beatle Brow Bulge....

These are just the multi starred classics mind you, and that is by no means a complete list. I would say confidently that The Trapps has it for 5.10.

RR

THe thing about the gunks though is you've got the 5.5 crowd bringing down the coolness.

Yeah, but despite the massive crowds on a nice fall weekend, you'll have more competition for the 10s in BVC than you will for the 10s at the Trapps. Seriously.

GO

This is kerrect. As much as I hate to agree with rangerrob, See Eye is wrong!

Rangerrob heard about your heinous sport climbing, gear in-situ tactics, consulted the huddled 5.5 ethically pure masses, and it was decided to confiscate your gear and revoke your gunks daypass. The gunks is Trad, bitch!!

^^^ CI deflects the subject from his rage-shitz filled pants.

GO
Mad


swoopee


May 27, 2010, 10:41 AM
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Your profile says you lead 5.1. Just saying. Wink


caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 11:09 AM
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swoopee wrote:
Your profile says you lead 5.1. Just saying. Wink

I should update that to 5.1d.


gmggg


May 27, 2010, 11:16 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
jh_angel wrote:
jrathfon wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Back to the east coast... Crow Hill. It's just single pitch, but the historical perspective is worth it. Veritable land mark climbs for 10's and 11's.

CHOSS!!!!111!!

What complete BS! Crow Hill is dope! Not so dope that it should have been mentioned in this tread, but calling it choss is just ridiculous.

I'd also like throw in a vote for the LTW at Index.

-Josh

It's short, dirty, broken up and ledgey. Sure it has history, I love it for that, but come on. Does Crow Hill really compare to "crags" like cathedral, whitehorse, poke-O, the motherlode, LTW at index, T-wall, etc., etc., etc.? I couldn't even gather myself up to make more than 2 trips there when I lived 45 minutes away.

I've lived in NH for almost all my life, and have climbed in Mass exactly twice. Once at Farley and once at Hammond Pond.

I offer no excuse other than the fact that I am one hour's drive, give or take, from Cathedral, Whitehorse, Cannon, P-tuck, Band M, all of the Kanc crags, and Rumney.

I know I may be missing out on some Mass goodness, but really, look at the above named areas and tell me Crow Hill belongs in the conversation.

I'll take the blame. I thought you were explicitly ruling out the larger destination areas.


rangerrob


May 27, 2010, 12:41 PM
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Camhead, are we bonding?


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 12:43 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.

Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines.

I'll cut you.


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on May 27, 2010, 12:43 PM)


rangerrob


May 27, 2010, 12:44 PM
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Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that. we can eliminate at least one based on approach...so goodbye BVC. I've never been top Index, so I don't know what the approach is, but it is hard to beat the Trapps for lazy climbing.


ryanb


May 27, 2010, 1:17 PM
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Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that. we can eliminate at least one based on approach...so goodbye BVC. I've never been top Index, so I don't know what the approach is, but it is hard to beat the Trapps for lazy climbing.

Lower wall approach is under 5 minutes. 10 if you have to wait for a train to pass.

People from the east often describe it as a steeper version of cathedral, though i've never climbed there and can't confirm this.

It does have a few downsides that may let another crag seize the crown... weather, meth-heads, moss, the fact it is on private property and lack of decent camping for road trippers, lack of easy climbs and noise from passing trains are the big ones but hopefully some of those will change with the purchase effort. there are something like 40 5.11 pitches on the lower wall, mix of gear, fixed pins and bolted slab/face and most of them pretty darn fun.

Don't believe me? i'll gladly show any one who donates to the purchase effort around ;)

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