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Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12?
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caughtinside


May 27, 2010, 1:57 PM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
boymeetsrock wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
oh yeah!! Elitist douchery FTW!

Isn't it uncouth to claim the PT after is was completed? Lame.

Well, you're a donny so I wouldn't expect you to be familiar with the rules guidelines.

I'll cut you.

Nice try. If you weren't so weke I might be concerned.


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 2:02 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Missed another one.


boymeetsrock


May 27, 2010, 2:05 PM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Black Canyon, North Chasm View Wall


Note sure it counts as a 'crag' though.


cchas


May 27, 2010, 7:12 PM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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Camhead,

If you thought Paradise Forks was pretty good, you should check out the Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon (and if you haven't been there in the last couple of years, especially last year, you haven't been there). Terminator at the Waterfall makes Paradise Forks looks like a choss pile. Hell, after climbing at the cookie Cliff for nearly 10 yrs, I'd say the Waterfall makes the Cookie Cliff in Yosemite look like a second rate cliff.

For me

1) Grand Wall/University Wall area in Squamish
2) Reservoir Wall in Indian Creek
3) Cat Wall in Indian Creek
4) Waterfall in Oak Creek Canyon (Arizona)
5) thinking about #5..... the Trapps is pretty good (climbed there for more then a decade) but the 5.10's and 5.11's are so dilute stacked betweenm the 5.0's to 5.9's that I don't qualify it, whereas at Paradise Forks, Indian Creek, Waterfall, to go from one 5.10-5.13 to another you just move your rope 10ft to the right or left for another 5 star routre.

And camhead, next time you are in Az drop me a line and I can show you some stuff that makes a lot of the stuff at the Creek look OK.


(This post was edited by cchas on May 27, 2010, 7:14 PM)


justroberto


May 28, 2010, 9:03 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.


edge


May 28, 2010, 9:11 AM
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Re: [justroberto] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+.

My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8.

Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...


hafilax


May 28, 2010, 9:12 AM
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Re: [cchas] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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I was going to suggest the Grand Wall area as well. The first pitch of a lot of the multipitch classics are terrific. I wasn't sure that the density of climbs was up to snuff.


cchas


May 28, 2010, 10:22 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+.

My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8.

Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...

and I always laugh at posts like this. When I moved from the East I was climbing 5.10's and a few .11's at the Gunks and had just spent 2 yrs doing R/X rated climbs there and climbed extensively on the East Coast.

When I moved to San Francisco I spent my first year getting my #ss handed to me on Yosemite and Tuolumne 5.9's.


edge


May 28, 2010, 10:55 AM
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Re: [cchas] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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cchas wrote:
edge wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Well, if we are going to bring grades into this, then I will say that I grew up in NH, and cut my teeth on NH 5.9+'s. This is localese for full on 5.10+.

My first trip to the Valley, my first route was the West Face of Rixon's, and thought it was a stroll. Literally, I thought it was a 5.8.

Until we went to rap off and the rope got hung up twice...

and I always laugh at posts like this. When I moved from the East I was climbing 5.10's and a few .11's at the Gunks and had just spent 2 yrs doing R/X rated climbs there and climbed extensively on the East Coast.

When I moved to San Francisco I spent my first year getting my #ss handed to me on Yosemite and Tuolumne 5.9's.

Fair enough, it seems like a style issue?

The Gunks are a totally different beast than anything I know in NH. I got spanked the first time I went to the Trapps, but really they were a great stepping stone.

I still stand by my assertion that if you can climb .9+ on Cathedral and have experience on the slabs of Whitehorse, then nothing of the same grade in Yosemite or Tuolumne can compare.

Again, my opinion. This was my observation and I respect differences of opinion.

Cheers.


swoopee


May 28, 2010, 11:39 AM
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Re: [justroberto] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Ouch. Smile


caughtinside


May 28, 2010, 1:06 PM
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Re: [swoopee] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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swoopee wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Ouch. Smile

Not really. A guy who lives in texas calling west coast 5.8s 5.5s isn't really saying much. I've been to texas and seen their 'climbing.' Not impressed.


kachoong


May 28, 2010, 1:17 PM
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Re: [wallwombat] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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wallwombat wrote:
Arapiles.

Ding Ding!!!!


edge


May 28, 2010, 1:21 PM
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Re: [kachoong] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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kachoong wrote:
wallwombat wrote:
Arapiles.

Ding Ding!!!!

Not fair...


justroberto


May 28, 2010, 4:28 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
swoopee wrote:
justroberto wrote:
caughtinside wrote:
Out west 5.5 doesn't even exist.
Sure it does. It's just called 5.8.

Ouch. Smile

Not really. A guy who lives in texas calling west coast 5.8s 5.5s isn't really saying much. I've been to texas and seen their 'climbing.' Not impressed.
Texas isn't my reference point. Austin grading is even softer than the desert, but that's beside the point...


Partner camhead


May 30, 2010, 8:34 PM
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Re: [cchas] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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cchas wrote:
And camhead, next time you are in Az drop me a line and I can show you some stuff that makes a lot of the stuff at the Creek look OK.

Thanks for the offer! I really need to get back out west, and all the photos of the Waterfall, Winslow, and other NoAZ areas are really piquing my interest. Hope I remember how to crack climb, though. There are too many damned face holds out East.


curt


May 30, 2010, 10:33 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
edge wrote:
So, I have climbed a few areas over a few years, but am curious.

What do you consider the best single crag for these grades?

Please don't answer with an area like "Yosemite," unless you want to be more specific and say "the Cookie." Then you will be wrong, in my opinion, but I would still want to hear from you.

For 5.10, I'd have to say the Trapps in the Gunks...

I'll second that, unless of course, I'm GU'd.

Curt


guangzhou


May 30, 2010, 11:18 PM
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Re: [curt] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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When I read questions like this, I thank my lucky stars that I am not and never have been limited to a single crag or climbing area. Some of my favorite have already been mentioned.

I am currently shopping for the perfect house location. A place where I can retire and climb year-round. Chattanooga area looks like it will be the best place. Climbing, cost of living, and friendly people.

In no particular order:

I lived in TN a few years, the states best climbing is at T-wall, but Whiteside and the North Side of Looking Glass were really good too. (T-wall is to hot in summer)

I had a condo near North Conway, Cathedral kept me busy for a couple of summer. I never got bored there, but the winter is cold at best.

I live in Yosemite for a year after High school. You can climb year-round but the place closes in on you after a while.

I almost bought a house near Paradise Forks a couple years ago. A small climbing area that has excellent single pitch climbing. I think it would get boring to climb there exclusively.

I like the Needles, but I would die at a much younger age if I lived there. Run outs are long, and winter is even longer.

Colorado has Lumpy Ridge, spectacular climbing with a reasonable winter, but the climbing season for pure rock is still pretty short.

I plan on spending most of this summer climbing Lovers' Leap in Tahoe. I'll be house shopping too. I like the leap, a nice mix of routes. But winter is to cold to climb.

In short, they is no perfect place to climb exclusively year-round. Guess I am lucky, I climb overseas around Asia, New Zealand, and Australia during the the American Winter and spend summer climbing in the USA or Europe. The variety of areas keeps me from getting bored, sort of like sport and climbing trad climbing keeping me from getting burned out.

E


curt


May 30, 2010, 11:50 PM
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Re: [bandycoot] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
edge wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
Needles

Not really a single crag, but thanks for playing.

I love it there too.

Pick almost any of the faces there and it meets your criteria. Slab/knobs/corners/aretes/cracks/face in the 5.10-5.12 range. I think I just drooled on my keyboard a little.....

Fair enough, but do any one of those single faces match up to the variety of previously mentioned areas?

Even if they don't, as soon as I see the word "best" in reference to a climbing area I twitch compusively and MUST reply "Needles". Plus they're pretty.........

Josh

You guys should stop confusing the real Needles with that other place in California. Cool

Curt


healyje


May 31, 2010, 12:15 AM
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Re: [rangerrob] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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rangerrob wrote:
Seriously though, four crags keep popping up. The Trapps, Lower Index, Black Velvet Canyon, and Cathedral. so it comes down to that.

Wow, love those minus LTW which I haven't been, but if it came down to it I'd probably spend my time on Eldorado's Bastille and Redgarden Wall first.

P.S. Marco Fedrizzi on 'The Wizard', our Crow Hill FA from the two years in the mid-80s I lived in NH.




(This post was edited by healyje on May 31, 2010, 2:12 AM)


granite_grrl


May 31, 2010, 6:54 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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edge wrote:
chadnsc wrote:
I would say Devils Tower, but then again I'm limited by my geographic location. Tongue

DT is awesome, but little variety.
I love the Tower, but it might be more to do with the atmosphere than the actual climbing (though the variety isn't bad, better than places like Indian Creek and maybe other crack climbing meccas).

Otherwise I would consider a wall the NRG, which I think really picks up in the 5.10 range. I'm not that familiar with the New though, so I can't narrow it down to one wall.


kappydane


May 31, 2010, 6:58 AM
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Re: [edge] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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I consider cragging to be quick access with a lot of routes close together. So I propose Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. Probably the most routes available in the smallest physical area. You can walk from one side of the ranch to the other in about 30 minutes while most approaches to single areas only takes about 10 or 15 minutes.
34 5.7
34 5.8
46 5.9
69 5.10
47 5.11
40 5.12


Partner camhead


May 31, 2010, 7:03 AM
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Re: [kappydane] Best Single Crag for 5.10/ 11/.12? [In reply to]
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kappydane wrote:
I consider cragging to be quick access with a lot of routes close together. So I propose Horseshoe Canyon Ranch in Arkansas. Probably the most routes available in the smallest physical area. You can walk from one side of the ranch to the other in about 30 minutes while most approaches to single areas only takes about 10 or 15 minutes.
34 5.7
34 5.8
46 5.9
69 5.10
47 5.11
40 5.12

The original poster was looking specifically for trad climbs. Your list for HCR, which granted is an awesome place, would really be a LOT smaller if you were to narrow it down just to trad climbs.

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