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blueeyedclimber


Jun 26, 2010, 7:03 PM
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50 "FAVORITE" Climbs
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The "Classic" climbs don't seem as fun as this list.
http://www.amazon.com/...erican/dp/0898867282

Which ones have you done? And is there anyone here who is working on doing all of them? I have only done Epinepherine, but I am hoping that VMC direct direct and The Grand Wall will go down this year, and Levitation 29 on my next trip to Red Rocks.

I think quite a few of these would be out of my reach, but I would like to try all the ones that aren't.

Josh


byran


Jun 26, 2010, 7:56 PM
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I think I've done more of the Roper Steck "classics" than these. I've only done Epinephrine, Levitation 29, The Vampire, and I've done part of Nabisco Wall and Lurking Fear. All excellent climbs.

Edit: It's kind of crazy how there's all these people like Caldwell and Bridwell and Hans Florine and Lynn Hill and yet nobody picked the Nose...


(This post was edited by byran on Jun 26, 2010, 8:24 PM)


blueeyedclimber


Jun 26, 2010, 9:40 PM
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How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall.

The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet.

It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal. Smile

Josh


edge


Jun 26, 2010, 11:41 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
The "Classic" climbs don't seem as fun as this list.
http://www.amazon.com/...erican/dp/0898867282

Which ones have you done? And is there anyone here who is working on doing all of them? I have only done Epinepherine, but I am hoping that VMC direct direct and The Grand Wall will go down this year, and Levitation 29 on my next trip to Red Rocks.

I think quite a few of these would be out of my reach, but I would like to try all the ones that aren't.

Josh

Well, I can't read any of those. However, the VMC Direct Direct remains my favorite climb of all time, and I count myself as a better human for seeing that section of rock...


bennydh


Jun 27, 2010, 12:18 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall.

The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet.

It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal. Smile

Josh

I actually climbed both Levitation 29 and the Vampire with Byran. The Vampire is way better than Levitation. I also don't think I would put Levitation in my personal top 50 climbs. I think Byran has a better opinion about that route than I do, but I 'll let him speak for himself.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 27, 2010, 7:14 AM
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edge wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
The "Classic" climbs don't seem as fun as this list.
http://www.amazon.com/...erican/dp/0898867282

Which ones have you done? And is there anyone here who is working on doing all of them? I have only done Epinepherine, but I am hoping that VMC direct direct and The Grand Wall will go down this year, and Levitation 29 on my next trip to Red Rocks.

I think quite a few of these would be out of my reach, but I would like to try all the ones that aren't.

Josh

Well, I can't read any of those. However, the VMC Direct Direct remains my favorite climb of all time, and I count myself as a better human for seeing that section of rock...

Did you click on the book and then zoom in? Are you getting that old? Cool

Josh


edge


Jun 27, 2010, 7:32 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
The "Classic" climbs don't seem as fun as this list.
http://www.amazon.com/...erican/dp/0898867282

Which ones have you done? And is there anyone here who is working on doing all of them? I have only done Epinepherine, but I am hoping that VMC direct direct and The Grand Wall will go down this year, and Levitation 29 on my next trip to Red Rocks.

I think quite a few of these would be out of my reach, but I would like to try all the ones that aren't.

Josh

Well, I can't read any of those. However, the VMC Direct Direct remains my favorite climb of all time, and I count myself as a better human for seeing that section of rock...

Did you click on the book and then zoom in? Are you getting that old? Cool

Josh

Yes, I am.

However I have had personal conversations with over half of those people listed on the cover. Doesn't that account for something?

No?

Oh well...


blueeyedclimber


Jun 27, 2010, 7:35 AM
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edge wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
The "Classic" climbs don't seem as fun as this list.
http://www.amazon.com/...erican/dp/0898867282

Which ones have you done? And is there anyone here who is working on doing all of them? I have only done Epinepherine, but I am hoping that VMC direct direct and The Grand Wall will go down this year, and Levitation 29 on my next trip to Red Rocks.

I think quite a few of these would be out of my reach, but I would like to try all the ones that aren't.

Josh

Well, I can't read any of those. However, the VMC Direct Direct remains my favorite climb of all time, and I count myself as a better human for seeing that section of rock...

Did you click on the book and then zoom in? Are you getting that old? Cool

Josh

Yes, I am.

However I have had personal conversations with over half of those people listed on the cover. Doesn't that account for something?

No?

Oh well...

Actually, to me, that counts for a lot. Now, since you can read the people, just squint a little more and tell me which climbs you have done. Cool


camhead


Jun 27, 2010, 7:44 AM
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I've wanted to get that book for a while, definitely a cool list of routes there.

I've only done two of them, the Original Route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, and Primrose Dihedrals in Canyonlands. I almost did the Grand Wall, but rain messed up our plans.

That list does seem a bit skewed toward Red Rocks, too.


edge


Jun 27, 2010, 7:47 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
edge wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
The "Classic" climbs don't seem as fun as this list.
http://www.amazon.com/...erican/dp/0898867282

Which ones have you done? And is there anyone here who is working on doing all of them? I have only done Epinepherine, but I am hoping that VMC direct direct and The Grand Wall will go down this year, and Levitation 29 on my next trip to Red Rocks.

I think quite a few of these would be out of my reach, but I would like to try all the ones that aren't.

Josh

Well, I can't read any of those. However, the VMC Direct Direct remains my favorite climb of all time, and I count myself as a better human for seeing that section of rock...

Did you click on the book and then zoom in? Are you getting that old? Cool

Josh

Yes, I am.

However I have had personal conversations with over half of those people listed on the cover. Doesn't that account for something?

No?

Oh well...

Actually, to me, that counts for a lot. Now, since you can read the people, just squint a little more and tell me which climbs you have done. Cool

I've done three, backed off of four others, and dreamed about the rest...

My personal top 50 would be different.

Oh, and for the record:
Nabisco Wall
VMC Direct Direct
and the first 9 pitches of Hall of Mirrors


(This post was edited by edge on Jun 27, 2010, 7:52 AM)


bandycoot


Jun 27, 2010, 8:16 AM
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camhead wrote:
I've wanted to get that book for a while, definitely a cool list of routes there.

I've only done two of them, the Original Route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, and Primrose Dihedrals in Canyonlands. I almost did the Grand Wall, but rain messed up our plans.

That list does seem a bit skewed toward Red Rocks, too.

Me too! Rained off twice on the same trip!

Leavitation 29 is VERY highly overrated IMO.

I've managed to do 10 of them now:

The Vampire
Scirocco
Leavitation 29
Epinephrine
Astroman
Rostrum
Romantic Warrior
Original Route Rainbow Wall
Nabisco Wall
Tricks of the Trade

The routes are amazing quality. I find this list much more contemporary than 50 Classic Climbs. While those climbs might be good, I'd rather get on a route with unbelievable steep splitters at 5.11 than an easier 5.8-5.9 route. I really enjoy the book, and it has lead me to a few climbs I wouldn't have otherwise done, like Romantic Warrior and Tricks of the Trade. By the way the "800' hand crack in a headwall" = total BS. A great route, but I think Middendorf was just making that up to get people on his route.

Josh


kachoong


Jun 27, 2010, 8:26 AM
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I wonder how many of those have been climbed extensively by others, such as the Grand Wall? The Infinite Spur would be an example of very low traffic. Favorites certainly are subjective and limited to the experiences of those climbers listed, although I'm sure many of those climbs would be much better than those in the 50 classic climbs of NA list... a little more modern.

Sadly I've only been on two of them; Grand Wall and Bird Brain, but would love to try more on the list.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 27, 2010, 8:56 AM
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Nice! I also feel the list is very Westcentric, too. There are only a couple that I could do without taking a significant trip. So, it will take us east coasters a little while longer to tick as many off.

Why do you feel Levitation is overrated? If Lynn Hill says it's her favorite climb, then that's good enough for me.

Josh


flamer


Jun 27, 2010, 9:03 AM
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I've done 6:

Original route of The rainbow wall
Epinephrine
Levitation 29
Lurking fear
The rostrum
And Prodigal Sun.

I agree that levitation29 is overated!

I actually climbed Epi, Og Route of Rainbow wall, and levitation all in the same day.

It was a big fun day....

josh


vegastradguy


Jun 27, 2010, 9:05 AM
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I actually really liked Levitation- thoughtful and engaging the entire way, not soft like alot of Urioste routes, and the position is tough to beat, and the crux is TOUGH- four tries before i was able to get it. Onsighted the rest of the route, though (barely in a couple of spots).

That said, of the ones i've done, Levitation is probably below the Grand Wall and Original Route in terms of quality and whether I'd repeat it. The Grand is just AMAZING- such a good climb. If i can manage a partner sometime in the next two weeks, I'm gonna hop on it again. And I'd do the Original Route again anytime- aside from how amazing the climbing and position is, the accessibility of the route surprises you and makes the day that much more enjoyable.

I've done a few of the 50 in the book,
Original Route, Rainbow Wall
Epinephrine
Grand Wall
Levitation 29


blueeyedclimber


Jun 27, 2010, 9:33 AM
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flamer wrote:

I actually climbed Epi, Og Route of Rainbow wall, and levitation all in the same day.

It was a big fun day....

josh

This is impressive. It took me all day just to do Epi, but I imagine it would go much quicker if I get on it again.


bennydh


Jun 27, 2010, 12:48 PM
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Levitation 29 is just not a very interesting route. Its predictable, repetitive feeling, and its not all that aesthetic. Save 1 move in the second pitch, which is probably the crux, or a 10d upper pitch which is actually more fun than the majority of the climbing below it. The rest of the route just seems like any other moderate RR face route.

Its also ridiculous that its called 11c ? The 'enduro' pitch(supposed crux) link up section has edging feet for rest all over it.

I'd say a route like Unimpeachable Groping (10d?), which feels the same to me in grade, and is a bit better quality trumps Levitation 29 hands down.

The most ridiculous part of it all is that Unimpeachable groping is like a stout 5.9 by other world climbing standards, yet it feels about as hard as Levitation.

In the 'real' 11c category of climbing, I'd put down a climb like Atlantis in the Needles.


bandycoot


Jun 27, 2010, 7:16 PM
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Yeah, bennydh pretty much nailed it although it is harder than 10d. There's nothing that stands out about the route. If you want to push the limits 1 letter grade, get on Cloud Tower. Not THAT'S a quality line. Atlantis is an unbelievable 11c. I agree.

I also liked Unimpeachable Groping. Great route!

Josh


vegastradguy


Jun 27, 2010, 7:48 PM
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bennydh wrote:
Levitation 29 is just not a very interesting route. Its predictable, repetitive feeling, and its not all that aesthetic. Save 1 move in the second pitch, which is probably the crux, or a 10d upper pitch which is actually more fun than the majority of the climbing below it. The rest of the route just seems like any other moderate RR face route.

Its also ridiculous that its called 11c ? The 'enduro' pitch(supposed crux) link up section has edging feet for rest all over it.

I'd say a route like Unimpeachable Groping (10d?), which feels the same to me in grade, and is a bit better quality trumps Levitation 29 hands down.

The most ridiculous part of it all is that Unimpeachable groping is like a stout 5.9 by other world climbing standards, yet it feels about as hard as Levitation.

In the 'real' 11c category of climbing, I'd put down a climb like Atlantis in the Needles.

thats interesting, as i thought Unimpeachable was several notches easier and the rock quality was suspect most of the way up, especially on the pitches above the big ledge.

at any rate, to each their own. i liked levitation and think its a great RR route- certainly a classic and well worth climbing.


byran


Jun 27, 2010, 7:56 PM
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I liked Levitation and would consider it a must-do if you're in Red Rock. Eagle Wall's position up at the top of Oak Creek Canyon is excellent. The approach and descent are fun and scenic, and since Levitation can be climbed with a rack of quickdraws and nuts, you can go light and fast, covering a lot of ground in a single day. The route itself is classic Red Rock "hero climbing", with pretty much every pitch being steep and exposed yet surprisingly easy thanks to all the handholds and all the bolts.

Would I include it in my 50 favorite climbs? I dunno... maybe I would. But I think there's other routes on that list which should raise more eyebrows than Levitation.


Partner angry


Jun 27, 2010, 8:07 PM
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I've done 7 of them.

I will say that Levitation was OK, I'd do it again if someone asked me to. It was fun. Nothing too memorable.

Wunches Dihedral is probably the best 4 pitch route anywhere.

No qualifiers to that statement. It stacks up to Romantic Warrior, Astroman, Moonlight Buttress, Arianna, etc, except it's shorter.


mojede


Jun 27, 2010, 8:11 PM
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Here's a link to the list--just scroll down...

http://tinyurl.com/2ajzqfz

Found on Google "books"


(This post was edited by mojede on Jun 27, 2010, 8:12 PM)


blueeyedclimber


Jun 27, 2010, 8:20 PM
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Uhhhh....I have a link in the first post.

Have you done any?


flamer


Jun 27, 2010, 10:38 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Why do you feel Levitation is overrated? If Lynn Hill says it's her favorite climb, then that's good enough for me.

I think when Lynn did it her experience was different. Myabe she's done it again and just really likes it...who knows?
But Keep in mind she was on the first free ascent. In what? 1980? A much different experience.

josh


blueeyedclimber


Jun 28, 2010, 8:09 AM
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flamer wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
Why do you feel Levitation is overrated? If Lynn Hill says it's her favorite climb, then that's good enough for me.

I think when Lynn did it her experience was different. Myabe she's done it again and just really likes it...who knows?
But Keep in mind she was on the first free ascent. In what? 1980? A much different experience.

josh

Very true. But, I am still psyched to do it.

I just wish all those climbs were not so damn far away. Mad

Josh


caughtinside


Jun 28, 2010, 8:23 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Nice! I also feel the list is very Westcentric, too.

That is no accident.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 28, 2010, 8:57 AM
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caughtinside wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
Nice! I also feel the list is very Westcentric, too.

That is no accident.

I knowUnsure


mojede


Jun 28, 2010, 9:07 AM
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Sorry 'bout that, Blue--I didn't click on the "look inside" to see the actual list of climbs, my bad.

Nope, haven't done any in that book--but could certainly add 5 or so of my own FA's that would rival some of them:-)


..assuming that one likes long, free climbs on bomber grandiorite.


welle


Jun 28, 2010, 10:00 AM
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bandycoot wrote:
I find this list much more contemporary than 50 Classic Climbs. While those climbs might be good, I'd rather get on a route with unbelievable steep splitters at 5.11 than an easier 5.8-5.9 route.
Josh

It can't be that contemporary - it lists Black Ice Couloir, the climb that ceased to exist for quite a while. I love how Alex Lowe chose Grand Traverse as his favorite climb - he probably used to casually do it as day outings...


hafilax


Jun 28, 2010, 10:42 AM
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Of the 50 Favorites I have done the Grand Wall is my favourite although it's also the only one I've done. I liked it so much I would like to repeat it this summer.


hafilax


Jun 28, 2010, 11:22 AM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall.

The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet.

It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal. Smile

Josh
If you're coming to Squamish make sure you bring the sun with you.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 28, 2010, 4:03 PM
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hafilax wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall.

The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet.

It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal. Smile

Josh
If you're coming to Squamish make sure you bring the sun with you.

Nevermind that. I coming, so you better have it ready for me Tongue

Josh


Partner macherry


Jun 28, 2010, 9:28 PM
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Re: [camhead] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
I've wanted to get that book for a while, definitely a cool list of routes there.

I've only done two of them, the Original Route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, and Primrose Dihedrals in Canyonlands. I almost did the Grand Wall, but rain messed up our plans.

That list does seem a bit skewed toward Red Rocks, too.

i got this book for 50 cents last year at a thrift store. actually, i bought two at that price and gave one to my favorite climbing partner. some book store must have dumped some copies, because there were five on the shelf!!!


flamer


Jun 30, 2010, 3:07 PM
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welle wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
I find this list much more contemporary than 50 Classic Climbs. While those climbs might be good, I'd rather get on a route with unbelievable steep splitters at 5.11 than an easier 5.8-5.9 route.
Josh

It can't be that contemporary - it lists Black Ice Couloir, the climb that ceased to exist for quite a while. I love how Alex Lowe chose Grand Traverse as his favorite climb - he probably used to casually do it as day outings...


There is no probably about it.....Alex Lowe held the speed record for the GT for a long time.

It took super alpinist Rolando Garibotti and a 3 times in 2 weeks effort to break it.....well smash it really. Rolo's time is fairly amazing.

josh


welle


Jul 1, 2010, 7:43 AM
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Thanks for the info. I just did some search and found Rolando's personal account of it: http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?slc=en_US&sct=US&assetid=29179
my hips and knees just cringed reading it!


cchas


Jul 1, 2010, 12:42 PM
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Only 6 of them.

I hate to be a boob (actually no pun intended since its on Bobbi Bensmans choice), but I thought that Rainbow Wall Original was ok at best ....maybe I was just expecting more from it. The Rostrum was good IMHO. I'm surprised no one mentioned Moonlight Buttress.

Many of the other routes are very high on my list such as, All Along the Watchtower, Romantic Warrior, Bird Brain,


(This post was edited by cchas on Jul 2, 2010, 6:47 AM)


rangerrob


Jul 2, 2010, 5:41 AM
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You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.


cchas


Jul 2, 2010, 6:47 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.

you mean it even makes the 50 favorite for the Gunks????


blueeyedclimber


Jul 2, 2010, 8:28 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.

Hehe. Laugh


rangerrob


Jul 3, 2010, 8:08 AM
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Sure it does Chuck! It's right there with Disneyland as the best 5.6 in the country!

If only you could see dripping sarcasm on the internet.


cchas


Jul 3, 2010, 9:00 PM
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I saw the pool, but I was going to put "Hi E" in the bottom 50 for the Gunks.......


camhead


Jul 5, 2010, 6:54 AM
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cchas wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.

you mean it even makes the 50 favorite for the Gunks????

I was going to do High E on my last gunks trip, but I had forgotten my knife and figured I should just stay off it.


camhead


Jul 5, 2010, 6:58 AM
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cchas wrote:

I hate to be a boob (actually no pun intended since its on Bobbi Bensmans choice), but I thought that Rainbow Wall Original was ok at best.

I enjoyed Rainbow Wall, but can understand the case for its mediocrity; the cruxes are fairly short, there's not much jamming, etc. Still, I enjoyed it.

I would really like to hit Cloud Tower if I ever get back to Red Rocks. That thing looks really good.


guangzhou


Aug 2, 2012, 10:37 PM
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The List [In reply to]
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Wonder if anyone has made progress in a decade.

The List

Alaska and the Yukon

1 Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge

2 Mount Fairweather, Carpe Ridge

3 Mount Hunter, West Ridge

4 Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge

5 Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge

6 Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”

7 Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge

8 Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3


Western Canada

9 Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2

10 Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7

11 South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10

12 Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6

13 Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7

14 Mount Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6

15 Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6

16 Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7

17 Devil’s Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6

18 Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10


The Pacific Northwest

19 Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge

20 Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2

21 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier

22 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2

23 Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4

24 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3


Wyoming

25 Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7

26 Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7

27 Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6

28 Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8

29 Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3

30 Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8

31 Wolf’s Head, East Ridge II 5.5


Colorado

32 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7

33 Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7

34 Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7

35 Longs Peak, The Diamond V 5.7 A4 or 5.11


The Southwest

36 Shiprock III 5.7 A2 or 5.9

37 Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9

38 The Titan IV 5.8 A3


California

39 The Royal Arches III 5.6 A1 or 5.9

40 Lost Arrow Spire III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2

41 Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3

42 Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10

43 Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11

44 El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3

45 El Capitan, Salathe Wall VI 5.10 A3

46 Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4

47 Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9

48 Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8

49 Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7

50 Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Aug 2, 2012, 10:38 PM)


Marylandclimber


Oct 10, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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Well I enjoyed Three Pines at the Gunks if that means antyhing.. xD


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