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caughtinside


Jun 28, 2010, 8:23 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Nice! I also feel the list is very Westcentric, too.

That is no accident.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 28, 2010, 8:57 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
Nice! I also feel the list is very Westcentric, too.

That is no accident.

I knowUnsure


mojede


Jun 28, 2010, 9:07 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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Sorry 'bout that, Blue--I didn't click on the "look inside" to see the actual list of climbs, my bad.

Nope, haven't done any in that book--but could certainly add 5 or so of my own FA's that would rival some of them:-)


..assuming that one likes long, free climbs on bomber grandiorite.


welle


Jun 28, 2010, 10:00 AM
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Re: [bandycoot] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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bandycoot wrote:
I find this list much more contemporary than 50 Classic Climbs. While those climbs might be good, I'd rather get on a route with unbelievable steep splitters at 5.11 than an easier 5.8-5.9 route.
Josh

It can't be that contemporary - it lists Black Ice Couloir, the climb that ceased to exist for quite a while. I love how Alex Lowe chose Grand Traverse as his favorite climb - he probably used to casually do it as day outings...


hafilax


Jun 28, 2010, 10:42 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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Of the 50 Favorites I have done the Grand Wall is my favourite although it's also the only one I've done. I liked it so much I would like to repeat it this summer.


hafilax


Jun 28, 2010, 11:22 AM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall.

The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet.

It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal. Smile

Josh
If you're coming to Squamish make sure you bring the sun with you.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 28, 2010, 4:03 PM
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Re: [hafilax] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
How was Levitation? I am doing The Grand Wall up in Squamish in a couple weeks. And hopefully VMC direct direct later this summer or in the fall.

The other ones, I haven't seriously looked at yet. I have no big wall experience, so those ones are not realistic for me yet.

It seems to me, though, that this list would be a nice lifetime goal. Smile

Josh
If you're coming to Squamish make sure you bring the sun with you.

Nevermind that. I coming, so you better have it ready for me Tongue

Josh


Partner macherry


Jun 28, 2010, 9:28 PM
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Re: [camhead] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
I've wanted to get that book for a while, definitely a cool list of routes there.

I've only done two of them, the Original Route on Rainbow Wall in Red Rocks, and Primrose Dihedrals in Canyonlands. I almost did the Grand Wall, but rain messed up our plans.

That list does seem a bit skewed toward Red Rocks, too.

i got this book for 50 cents last year at a thrift store. actually, i bought two at that price and gave one to my favorite climbing partner. some book store must have dumped some copies, because there were five on the shelf!!!


flamer


Jun 30, 2010, 3:07 PM
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Re: [welle] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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welle wrote:
bandycoot wrote:
I find this list much more contemporary than 50 Classic Climbs. While those climbs might be good, I'd rather get on a route with unbelievable steep splitters at 5.11 than an easier 5.8-5.9 route.
Josh

It can't be that contemporary - it lists Black Ice Couloir, the climb that ceased to exist for quite a while. I love how Alex Lowe chose Grand Traverse as his favorite climb - he probably used to casually do it as day outings...


There is no probably about it.....Alex Lowe held the speed record for the GT for a long time.

It took super alpinist Rolando Garibotti and a 3 times in 2 weeks effort to break it.....well smash it really. Rolo's time is fairly amazing.

josh


welle


Jul 1, 2010, 7:43 AM
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Re: [flamer] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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Thanks for the info. I just did some search and found Rolando's personal account of it: http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?slc=en_US&sct=US&assetid=29179
my hips and knees just cringed reading it!


cchas


Jul 1, 2010, 12:42 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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Only 6 of them.

I hate to be a boob (actually no pun intended since its on Bobbi Bensmans choice), but I thought that Rainbow Wall Original was ok at best ....maybe I was just expecting more from it. The Rostrum was good IMHO. I'm surprised no one mentioned Moonlight Buttress.

Many of the other routes are very high on my list such as, All Along the Watchtower, Romantic Warrior, Bird Brain,


(This post was edited by cchas on Jul 2, 2010, 6:47 AM)


rangerrob


Jul 2, 2010, 5:41 AM
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Re: [cchas] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.


cchas


Jul 2, 2010, 6:47 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.

you mean it even makes the 50 favorite for the Gunks????


blueeyedclimber


Jul 2, 2010, 8:28 AM
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rangerrob wrote:
You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.

Hehe. Laugh


rangerrob


Jul 3, 2010, 8:08 AM
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Re: [cchas] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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Sure it does Chuck! It's right there with Disneyland as the best 5.6 in the country!

If only you could see dripping sarcasm on the internet.


cchas


Jul 3, 2010, 9:00 PM
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I saw the pool, but I was going to put "Hi E" in the bottom 50 for the Gunks.......


Partner camhead


Jul 5, 2010, 6:54 AM
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Re: [cchas] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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cchas wrote:
rangerrob wrote:
You mean High Exposure doesn't make this list??? I'm devastated.

you mean it even makes the 50 favorite for the Gunks????

I was going to do High E on my last gunks trip, but I had forgotten my knife and figured I should just stay off it.


Partner camhead


Jul 5, 2010, 6:58 AM
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Re: [cchas] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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cchas wrote:

I hate to be a boob (actually no pun intended since its on Bobbi Bensmans choice), but I thought that Rainbow Wall Original was ok at best.

I enjoyed Rainbow Wall, but can understand the case for its mediocrity; the cruxes are fairly short, there's not much jamming, etc. Still, I enjoyed it.

I would really like to hit Cloud Tower if I ever get back to Red Rocks. That thing looks really good.


guangzhou


Aug 2, 2012, 10:37 PM
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The List [In reply to]
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Wonder if anyone has made progress in a decade.

The List

Alaska and the Yukon

1 Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge

2 Mount Fairweather, Carpe Ridge

3 Mount Hunter, West Ridge

4 Mount McKinley, Cassin Ridge

5 Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge

6 Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”

7 Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge

8 Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3


Western Canada

9 Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2

10 Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7

11 South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10

12 Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6

13 Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7

14 Mount Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6

15 Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6

16 Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7

17 Devil’s Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6

18 Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10


The Pacific Northwest

19 Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge

20 Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.2

21 Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier

22 Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2

23 Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.4

24 Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3


Wyoming

25 Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7

26 Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7

27 Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6

28 Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8

29 Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3

30 Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8

31 Wolf’s Head, East Ridge II 5.5


Colorado

32 Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7

33 Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7

34 Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7

35 Longs Peak, The Diamond V 5.7 A4 or 5.11


The Southwest

36 Shiprock III 5.7 A2 or 5.9

37 Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9

38 The Titan IV 5.8 A3


California

39 The Royal Arches III 5.6 A1 or 5.9

40 Lost Arrow Spire III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2

41 Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3

42 Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10

43 Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.11

44 El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3

45 El Capitan, Salathe Wall VI 5.10 A3

46 Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.4

47 Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9

48 Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8

49 Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7

50 Lover’s Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9


(This post was edited by guangzhou on Aug 2, 2012, 10:38 PM)


Marylandclimber


Oct 10, 2012, 12:52 PM
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Re: [blueeyedclimber] 50 "FAVORITE" Climbs [In reply to]
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Well I enjoyed Three Pines at the Gunks if that means antyhing.. xD

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