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The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR
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johnwesely


Jul 30, 2010, 8:51 AM
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Re: [mtselman] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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mtselman wrote:
John,

Thank you for your fantastic trip reports! As a regular Gunks climber I can closely relate to specific routes you describe. Yet, beyond the specifics of the routes, you managed to capture the essence of the place, the people you met and the journey you had, all in a great style. Excellent read for both locals and outsiders!

--Misha

Thank you very much.


markguycan


Jul 30, 2010, 8:55 AM
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Re: [johnwesely] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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John, & anyone else;
I am probably going to the Gunks (1st time)this October with my wife. I realize the ratings are generally pretty stiff. I don't want to put my wife on anything too hard. I see you listed some classics: "CCK, Frog's Head, Strictly from Nowhere, Son of Easy O, Disneyland, and High Exposure"
What classics do you recommend that actually feel like less than 5.9?
--thx-M


johnwesely


Jul 30, 2010, 9:10 AM
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Re: [markguycan] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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markguycan wrote:
John, & anyone else;
I am probably going to the Gunks (1st time)this October with my wife. I realize the ratings are generally pretty stiff. I don't want to put my wife on anything too hard. I see you listed some classics: "CCK, Frog's Head, Strictly from Nowhere, Son of Easy O, Disneyland, and High Exposure"
What classics do you recommend that actually feel like less than 5.9?
--thx-M

I didn't think that the grades were really that stiff when compared to the traditional climbing areas in the South East. Compared to sport ratings, I would add two number grades for everything 5.8 and under and a number grade for everything above that.

Of the ones you mentioned, I think the most problematic would be CCK. It is definitely under 5.9, but if your wife is easily spooked, you may encounter difficulties. Son of Easy O has a pretty thin start, but it is nothing you couldn't haul her up if necessary.

Have fun at the Gunks.


horseshoe


Jul 30, 2010, 11:37 AM
Post #229 of 241 (4005 views)
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Re: [johnwesely] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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I went to the Gunks for the first time this June--sadly only for one day. We did High Exposure and Madame G's. The grades seemed similar to western North Carolina, but the routes of corresponding grades might be steeper. Have a blast! The Gunks are great.

And John, thank you for an excellent trip report!


johnwesely


Jul 30, 2010, 11:46 AM
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Re: [horseshoe] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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horseshoe wrote:
I went to the Gunks for the first time this June--sadly only for one day. We did High Exposure and Madame G's. The grades seemed similar to western North Carolina, but the routes of corresponding grades might be steeper. Have a blast! The Gunks are great.

And John, thank you for an excellent trip report!

Your welcome.


IsayAutumn


Jul 30, 2010, 12:30 PM
Post #231 of 241 (3992 views)
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Re: [johnwesely] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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Good thread, John.

Also...

"The way you get sponsored is... have a beat street attitude. Treat a comp like a bboy cypher. Head hunt for ppl like Graham, Sharma, Robinson, Woods, Miley Cyrus, Lisa Rands, etc... Do a route in front of them and even if you don't send, come down, get some chalk from your bag, palm it, then blow it all to their faces and say "YOU JUST GOT SMOKED, NIGGA, STRAIGHT STREET..." Then do a coin drop to halo's to a drill head spin and top rock outta the comp."


johnwesely


Jul 30, 2010, 12:47 PM
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Re: [IsayAutumn] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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IsayAutumn wrote:
Good thread, John.

Also...

"The way you get sponsored is... have a beat street attitude. Treat a comp like a bboy cypher. Head hunt for ppl like Graham, Sharma, Robinson, Woods, Miley Cyrus, Lisa Rands, etc... Do a route in front of them and even if you don't send, come down, get some chalk from your bag, palm it, then blow it all to their faces and say "YOU JUST GOT SMOKED, NIGGA, STRAIGHT STREET..." Then do a coin drop to halo's to a drill head spin and top rock outta the comp."

That sounds like, uh, good advice...


johnwesely


Aug 4, 2010, 11:30 AM
Post #233 of 241 (3893 views)
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Re: [IsayAutumn] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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Here is the official TR surprise.













































I am writing for Greg's blog now so the TR never has to end.

Here is my first post.

http://gregsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/...p-is-hard-to-do.html


iknowfear


Aug 4, 2010, 1:00 PM
Post #234 of 241 (3872 views)
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Re: [johnwesely] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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Great trip report. I got sweaty hands reading. It really captures some of the essence of climbing...

Cheers!


johnwesely


Aug 4, 2010, 1:19 PM
Post #235 of 241 (3868 views)
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Re: [iknowfear] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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iknowfear wrote:
Great trip report. I got sweaty hands reading. It really captures some of the essence of climbing...

Cheers!

Thank you.


jakedatc


Aug 5, 2010, 3:04 PM
Post #236 of 241 (3819 views)
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Re: [johnwesely] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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johnwesely wrote:
Here is the official TR surprise.
I am writing for Greg's blog now so the TR never has to end.

Here is my first post.

http://gregsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/...p-is-hard-to-do.html

still not reading that! ;)


johnwesely


Aug 5, 2010, 6:20 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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jakedatc wrote:
johnwesely wrote:
Here is the official TR surprise.
I am writing for Greg's blog now so the TR never has to end.

Here is my first post.

http://gregsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/...p-is-hard-to-do.html

still not reading that! ;)

Don't worry. Next time we meet, you can read my blog, and I will watch that car show.


davidnn5


Aug 6, 2010, 1:04 AM
Post #238 of 241 (3777 views)
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Re: [johnwesely] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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As evidenced in other recent threads, John lied to me that Gunks 5.singledigit isn't completely sandbagged. And given he's not actually the lovechild of the previously mentioned climbers, I am doubly disappointed.


airscape


Aug 6, 2010, 5:03 AM
Post #239 of 241 (3771 views)
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Re: [johnwesely] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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Hey John

Awesome trip report, I'm almost half way done reading.

I'm printing the rest out to read on the crapper. (I'm all out of sudoku)

Smile


johnwesely


Aug 6, 2010, 7:13 AM
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Re: [davidnn5] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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davidnn5 wrote:
As evidenced in other recent threads, John lied to me that Gunks 5.singledigit isn't completely sandbagged. And given he's not actually the lovechild of the previously mentioned climbers, I am doubly disappointed.

Where did I lie? When I said the grades were harder than sport climbing grades? I have never been to a traditional climbing area with sport climbing grades.


johnwesely


Aug 6, 2010, 7:20 AM
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Re: [airscape] The Long Awaited, Much Anticipated, Notorius, Hopefully not Overly Laborious, Lonestar Gunks TR [In reply to]
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airscape wrote:
Hey John

Awesome trip report, I'm almost half way done reading.

I'm printing the rest out to read on the crapper. (I'm all out of sudoku)

Smile

Thank you.

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