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How do you rack your biners?
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Poll: How do you rack your biners?
Gates facing in, toward my body 56 / 53%
Gates facing out, away from my body 49 / 47%
105 total votes
 

yanqui


Sep 23, 2010, 9:01 AM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
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Re: [camhead] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Well, I've looked around at pics of pro-climbers.

Gates out:
Caldwell, Trotter, Rodden, Potter, Davis, Katie Brown, Matt Segal

Gates in:
Honnold (at least when he can be bothered to put on a harness with gear)
Ethan Pringle
Old farts and has-beens like Hank Haylor.

What's really interesting, is if you look at the pics in her book "Climbing Free," if appears as if Lynn Hill racked gates in until the late 1980s, but by the time she freed the Nose, she was racking gates out.

Gates in. Draws or gear. Seems easier grabbing 'em, that way. For me this started from the old days when we used gear slings for gear and gates out was a real pain to get off that sling. Rigid harness loops have made gates out an option, but I don't plan on changing. Though I did like that "duct tape" option Rodden used for desperate, one-pitch, wired gear routes. Too bad I don't climb that hard.

By the way, who the hell is "Hank Haylor"?


camhead


Sep 23, 2010, 9:05 AM
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Re: [yanqui] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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yanqui wrote:
camhead wrote:
Well, I've looked around at pics of pro-climbers.

Gates out:
Caldwell, Trotter, Rodden, Potter, Davis, Katie Brown, Matt Segal

Gates in:
Honnold (at least when he can be bothered to put on a harness with gear)
Ethan Pringle
Old farts and has-beens like Hank Haylor.

What's really interesting, is if you look at the pics in her book "Climbing Free," if appears as if Lynn Hill racked gates in until the late 1980s, but by the time she freed the Nose, she was racking gates out.

Gates in. Draws or gear. Seems easier grabbing 'em, that way. For me this started from the old days when we used gear slings for gear and gates out was a real pain to get off that sling. Rigid harness loops have made gates out an option, but I don't plan on changing. Though I did like that "duct tape" option Rodden used for desperate, one-pitch, wired gear routes. Too bad I don't climb that hard.

By the way, who the hell is "Hank Haylor"?

You don't know who Hank Haylor is? THE Hank Haylor?

I was looking through a random pile of R&I back issues for my above survey, and turned to a picture of him with gates-in biners.


handcrack


Sep 23, 2010, 9:06 AM
Post #28 of 123 (1657 views)
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Registered: Aug 9, 2003
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Re: [USnavy] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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You're the only person I'd believe when you say that you take off your harness in the middle of a route.


gmggg


Sep 23, 2010, 9:12 AM
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Gates out on the harness and gates in on a sling.


BirminghamBen


Sep 23, 2010, 9:29 AM
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Registered: Jul 23, 2009
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gmggg wrote:
Gates out on the harness and gates in on a sling.

My head hurts just thinking about that...


bearbreeder


Sep 23, 2010, 10:01 AM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2009
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gates out ... thumb presses the gate and its of as easy a a strippers clothes ...


bill413


Sep 23, 2010, 10:03 AM
Post #32 of 123 (1609 views)
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Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [bearbreeder] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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bearbreeder wrote:
gates out ... thumb presses the gate and its of as easy a a strippers clothes ...

Damn bra hooks.


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 23, 2010, 10:03 AM
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Registered: Oct 30, 2007
Posts: 19994

Re: [Gmburns2000] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
... I almost always have a hard time getting them off my harness if they're positioned that way. I guess my wrist doesn't arc in that direction very easily.

You have to have a really limp wrist. Or at least, that's what Camhead told me.


csproul


Sep 23, 2010, 10:08 AM
Post #34 of 123 (1599 views)
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1767

Re: [camhead] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
yanqui wrote:
camhead wrote:
Well, I've looked around at pics of pro-climbers.

Gates out:
Caldwell, Trotter, Rodden, Potter, Davis, Katie Brown, Matt Segal

Gates in:
Honnold (at least when he can be bothered to put on a harness with gear)
Ethan Pringle
Old farts and has-beens like Hank Haylor.

What's really interesting, is if you look at the pics in her book "Climbing Free," if appears as if Lynn Hill racked gates in until the late 1980s, but by the time she freed the Nose, she was racking gates out.

Gates in. Draws or gear. Seems easier grabbing 'em, that way. For me this started from the old days when we used gear slings for gear and gates out was a real pain to get off that sling. Rigid harness loops have made gates out an option, but I don't plan on changing. Though I did like that "duct tape" option Rodden used for desperate, one-pitch, wired gear routes. Too bad I don't climb that hard.

By the way, who the hell is "Hank Haylor"?

You don't know who Hank Haylor is? THE Hank Haylor?

I was looking through a random pile of R&I back issues for my above survey, and turned to a picture of him with gates-in biners.
Hank Caylor?


camhead


Sep 23, 2010, 10:11 AM
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Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20738

Re: [csproul] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
camhead wrote:
yanqui wrote:
camhead wrote:
Well, I've looked around at pics of pro-climbers.

Gates out:
Caldwell, Trotter, Rodden, Potter, Davis, Katie Brown, Matt Segal

Gates in:
Honnold (at least when he can be bothered to put on a harness with gear)
Ethan Pringle
Old farts and has-beens like Hank Haylor.

What's really interesting, is if you look at the pics in her book "Climbing Free," if appears as if Lynn Hill racked gates in until the late 1980s, but by the time she freed the Nose, she was racking gates out.

Gates in. Draws or gear. Seems easier grabbing 'em, that way. For me this started from the old days when we used gear slings for gear and gates out was a real pain to get off that sling. Rigid harness loops have made gates out an option, but I don't plan on changing. Though I did like that "duct tape" option Rodden used for desperate, one-pitch, wired gear routes. Too bad I don't climb that hard.

By the way, who the hell is "Hank Haylor"?

You don't know who Hank Haylor is? THE Hank Haylor?

I was looking through a random pile of R&I back issues for my above survey, and turned to a picture of him with gates-in biners.
Hank Caylor?

Hankaler.


Arrogant_Bastard


Sep 23, 2010, 10:12 AM
Post #36 of 123 (1592 views)
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Registered: Oct 30, 2007
Posts: 19994

Re: [csproul] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
camhead wrote:
yanqui wrote:
camhead wrote:
Well, I've looked around at pics of pro-climbers.

Gates out:
Caldwell, Trotter, Rodden, Potter, Davis, Katie Brown, Matt Segal

Gates in:
Honnold (at least when he can be bothered to put on a harness with gear)
Ethan Pringle
Old farts and has-beens like Hank Haylor.

What's really interesting, is if you look at the pics in her book "Climbing Free," if appears as if Lynn Hill racked gates in until the late 1980s, but by the time she freed the Nose, she was racking gates out.

Gates in. Draws or gear. Seems easier grabbing 'em, that way. For me this started from the old days when we used gear slings for gear and gates out was a real pain to get off that sling. Rigid harness loops have made gates out an option, but I don't plan on changing. Though I did like that "duct tape" option Rodden used for desperate, one-pitch, wired gear routes. Too bad I don't climb that hard.

By the way, who the hell is "Hank Haylor"?

You don't know who Hank Haylor is? THE Hank Haylor?

I was looking through a random pile of R&I back issues for my above survey, and turned to a picture of him with gates-in biners.
Hank Caylor?

Gaylor.


spikeddem


Sep 23, 2010, 10:41 AM
Post #37 of 123 (1567 views)
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Registered: Aug 27, 2007
Posts: 6319

Re: [BirminghamBen] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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BirminghamBen wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Gates out on the harness and gates in on a sling.

My head hurts just thinking about that...

I do it the same way.


gmggg


Sep 23, 2010, 10:50 AM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2009
Posts: 2099

Re: [spikeddem] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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spikeddem wrote:
BirminghamBen wrote:
gmggg wrote:
Gates out on the harness and gates in on a sling.

My head hurts just thinking about that...

I do it the same way.

I should say that I generally don't carry enough to both sling and rack gear on the harness, it's usually either or.

I know one of the positive points for innies is that a gear sling (and other equipment) can't snag on a biner.


Gmburns2000


Sep 23, 2010, 10:51 AM
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15128

Re: [jmeizis] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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jmeizis wrote:
Gates in, what am I a contortionist. It's not bad if I'm grabbing cams off someone elses harness but I don't like them facing out on my harness. I also have Wild Country's notchless wiregates. Thank goodness for insurance!

I used to rack my micro cams on one biner. Mostly because I didn't have any free biners to rack them on. Not sure if I'm more of a noob now that I haven't repurchased them or then when I was racking them on one biner.

you're a much better person for having separate biners for each cam now. before, when you racked more than one cam on a single biner, your character was marginal at best.


dingus


Sep 23, 2010, 10:55 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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Gear racking is more a question of HONOR, then it is CHARACTER.

For example, there is no honor in racking cams on the harness. None, whatsoever.

Sorry to break it to you man-boy harness rackers... the tails of your Puffy Shirts are showing.

DMT


(This post was edited by dingus on Sep 23, 2010, 10:56 AM)


Gmburns2000


Sep 23, 2010, 10:55 AM
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
... I almost always have a hard time getting them off my harness if they're positioned that way. I guess my wrist doesn't arc in that direction very easily.

You have to have a really limp wrist. Or at least, that's what Camhead told me.

damn


Gmburns2000


Sep 23, 2010, 11:07 AM
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dingus wrote:
Gear racking is more a question of HONOR, then it is CHARACTER.

For example, there is no honor in racking cams on the harness. None, whatsoever.

Sorry to break it to you man-boy harness rackers... the tails of your Puffy Shirts are showing.

DMT

heh - well, my comment to Jmeizis was more of an inside joke than an attack, but OK, I can see where you'd take that.

I've tried racking my cams on my sling, but due to shoulder problems, I can't use the single-shoulder slings and have to resort to the dual-shoulder slings instead. racking cams on those slings, where they hang from the side, is major pain in the ass because they get in the way of my leg loops. so puffy white shirts it is.


moose_droppings


Sep 23, 2010, 11:14 AM
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Re: [camhead] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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Gates in or,




Ur Gonna Die!!!111


dingus


Sep 23, 2010, 11:26 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:

heh - well, my comment to Jmeizis was more of an inside joke than an attack, but OK, I can see where you'd take that.

You're not really from Earth, are you? You're one of the POD people, admit it!

DMT


Gmburns2000


Sep 23, 2010, 11:36 AM
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Re: [dingus] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:

heh - well, my comment to Jmeizis was more of an inside joke than an attack, but OK, I can see where you'd take that.

You're not really from Earth, are you? You're one of the POD people, admit it!

DMT

FYI - tickets are going fast.


climbingaggie03


Sep 23, 2010, 11:48 AM
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Re: [camhead] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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I like gates in, I did have a friend tell me once that he liked gates out because he could grab the biner, take it off his harness, and clip the bolt without ever changing how he gripped the biner. To which I replied by grabbing a draw off my harness and clipping a bolt without ever changing my hand on the biner.


scotty1974


Sep 23, 2010, 12:06 PM
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Re: [bill413] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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I found I've been re-racking gates out myself when cleaning, so I started trying it out right off the bat.

It seems like I'm habitually going gates out, so if it works....


(This post was edited by scotty1974 on Sep 23, 2010, 12:09 PM)


carabiner96


Sep 23, 2010, 12:07 PM
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Re: [zeke_sf] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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zeke_sf wrote:
USnavy wrote:
camhead wrote:


Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
Interesting, the first time I saw that it was shown to me by Beth Rodden.

I'm sure that's exactly what she did when she sent Meltdown.

She was thinking of Usnavy, too.


carabiner96


Sep 23, 2010, 12:14 PM
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Gates in, and really only on my right side. Actually, the only stiff I put on my left is the shit I won't need till the top. It gets lopsided, but it works.


zeke_sf


Sep 23, 2010, 12:15 PM
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Re: [carabiner96] How do you rack your biners? [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
zeke_sf wrote:
USnavy wrote:
camhead wrote:


Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
Interesting, the first time I saw that it was shown to me by Beth Rodden.

I'm sure that's exactly what she did when she sent Meltdown.

She was thinking of Usnavy, too.

I heard he was at the center of their divorce. He was the meat in the sandwich. But there wasn't enough USNavy to go around and Beth's elf fingers tickled his fancy more. Later he cheated on her with Dean Potter and it was over, she was through with that crap.

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