Sep 23, 2010, 1:57 PM
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How do you rack your biners?
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Got in a debate about this recently, and just wanted to see what the masses thought. It's pretty self-explanatory; do you put draws/cams on your harness loops with the biner gates facing inward, or outward?
I have them facing outward.
Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
Josh sometimes does this with the smaller cams & it drives me nuts when we're switching over gear. We are not always compatible rackers. Good thing we don't use a gear sling, or major hostility might erupt on the rock.
Got in a debate about this recently, and just wanted to see what the masses thought. It's pretty self-explanatory; do you put draws/cams on your harness loops with the biner gates facing inward, or outward?
I have them facing outward.
Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
Completely personal decision based on what is easier for you.
Your unrelated note is BS. I rack the three smallest WC Zero cams on one biner when aid climbing.
gates facing in. while I admit that sometimes it is easier to put them on the harness facing out, I almost always have a hard time getting them off my harness if they're positioned that way. I guess my wrist doesn't arc in that direction very easily. That and I find it easier to open the gates with my fingers as opposed to my thumb.
and oh yeah, racking multiple cams on one biner drives me f^$*&cking NUTS! I've hacked with a machete no less than six climbers who did this. Of course the anger management people point out the fact that four of them weren't partners of mine, so maybe there's another issue simmering below the surface somewhere.
Gates in, what am I a contortionist. It's not bad if I'm grabbing cams off someone elses harness but I don't like them facing out on my harness. I also have Wild Country's notchless wiregates. Thank goodness for insurance!
I used to rack my micro cams on one biner. Mostly because I didn't have any free biners to rack them on. Not sure if I'm more of a noob now that I haven't repurchased them or then when I was racking them on one biner.
Gates in. However, especially lately, when I'm cleaning I clip them gate out. That's easier when my shirt gets untucked & partially covers the harness.
Gates in: Honnold (at least when he can be bothered to put on a harness with gear) Ethan Pringle Old farts and has-beens like Hank Haylor.
What's really interesting, is if you look at the pics in her book "Climbing Free," if appears as if Lynn Hill racked gates in until the late 1980s, but by the time she freed the Nose, she was racking gates out.
I think it has more to do with your gear loops than anything. Floppy gear loops makes gates in hard to use. I started learning trad with floppy loops, and I'll probably always be an outie.
Gates in all the way. Frick, I can't imagine having to pull a cam of my right hip with my left hand with the gate out. Funny thing, I have a partner who goes gate out, and I've seen him sketch so often trying to pull life saving gear from his harness. He gets so pumped and scared lol. Actually a few of my sport only partners go gate out, but none of my true Ice/Trad partners do. I sense a trend here . . .
Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
edit: Are you referring to racking multiple cams on a single carabineer (like many climbers do with nuts) and then placing an separate draw or free biner on the cam when it comes time to place it? Or do you mean grouping cams together for organization purposes (i.e. clipping a number one Camalot to your gear loop and clipping your second and third number one, each with their own biner, to the biner of the first number one)?
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 23, 2010, 3:49 PM)
Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
edit: Do you mean racking multiple cams on a single carabineer (like many climbers do with nuts) and then placing an separate draw or free biner on the cam when it comes time to place it? Or do you mean grouping cams together for organization purposes (i.e. clipping a number one Camalot to your gear loop and clipping your second and third number one, each with their own biner, to the biner of the first number one)?
Also, on a completely unrelated note, if you rack multiple cams on one biner, you are a n00b.
edit: Do you mean racking multiple cams on a single carabineer (like many climbers do with nuts) and then placing an separate draw or free biner on the cam when it comes time to place it? Or do you mean grouping cams together for organization purposes (i.e. clipping a number one Camalot to your gear loop and clipping your second and third number one, each with their own biner, to the biner of the first number one)?
yes.
Both?
Well in that case I stand by my post that Beth showed me the trick of racking like cams together to reduce clutter on the harness. I find it works well if I have a lot of the same cams with a large rack and it takes less time to take off my harness during turn over than just racking everything independently as it keeps things well organized and compact. But thats referring to clipping like cams together with independent biners.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Sep 23, 2010, 4:07 PM)
Gates in...I'm from Alabama and don't know any better...I also put the three smallest offset TCUs on one large wiregate when climbing granite...I'm a total rookie...