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Static line top-rope anchor
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Partner j_ung


Nov 2, 2010, 5:48 AM
Post #26 of 27 (604 views)
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18689

Re: [Zeronine] Static line top-rope anchor [In reply to]
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Zeronine wrote:
Ok so the eight on a bight, on a bight, to get a two loop power point is what I was looking for, and what I was originally taught, as it turns out.

I just tied the tail out of the knot into a double fisherman's on one of the anchor legs.



That look ok? I agree with some of you that one loop of that 11mm line is likely sufficient, but why not add a level of redundancy when it's so easy to do?

Perfect.


knudenoggin


Nov 28, 2010, 9:58 PM
Post #27 of 27 (512 views)
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Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 594

Re: [ncrockclimber] Static line top-rope anchor [In reply to]
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In re
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The super-8/Canadian-8/double-loop-8 (whatever you want to call it) will absolutely hold if one loop is compromised, ...

ncrockclimber wrote:
Not to be argumentative, but I am almost 100% sure that this is NOT accurate. If one of the loops fails, the other loop fails. I believe that there is a video floating around out there of where a kid cuts one of the loops then bounces on the line until the knot fails.

It's hard to talk about a vapor video,
but I do recall one Brit insisting on your POView and finding some slow-pull test where the knot failed when the connecting bight/collar between the two knot eyes was cut --a cut that requires a sort of surgical precision (to avoid cutting adjacent strands)!

I find it hard to figure how just one eye failing (becoming unloaded) could lead to knot failure, as : one leg of this eye makes a full Fig.8 course through the knot; the other leg goes in, up around the loaded line (forming a "collar", thus), and then back through the knot. I.e., both legs of the eye are well nipped by the loaded knot; I don't see how they can pull out (in normal cordage; in HMPE, well, all bets are off!). Also, one should consider the loads and the "failure" --getting cut is unlikely; having the attachment point fail (pull out) is probably the only failure mechanism, and then it's near impossible that the unloaded eye & associated pulled-out hardware will slip out through the knot.

*kN*

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